No More Learning

I owned almost as many brothers and
sisters myself, and fifteen children were no marvel to me. So I
asked if he were a grandfather too.
“Of course," he answered gravely. But I am going to tell
you how I came by fifteen children. You know how we peasant
folk give house and land to the eldest son, and only a few
coppers to the youngest children. A bad custom, that leads to
quarrels, and ends sometimes in murder. Fathers and mothers
can't bring themselves to part with the property, and so they
live with the eldest son, who doles out food and shelter, and gets
the farm in the end. So, in time, a family has some rich mem-
bers and more paupers. Now, we'd better sell the land and let
the children share alike; but then that way breaks estates too.
I was
a younger child, and I received four hundred thalers;
large sum forty years ago. I didn't know anything but field
work. The saying that “The peasant must be kept stupid or he
will not obey' was still printed in all the books. So I had to
look about for a family where a son was needed. One day, with
my four hundred thalers in my pocket, I went to a farm where
there was an unmarried daughter. When you go a-courting
among us, you pretend to mean to buy a horse. That's the
fashion. With us, a lie doesn't wear French rouge. The parents
of Marianne (that was her name) made me welcome. Brown
Bess was brought from the stable, and her neck, legs, and teeth
examined. I showed my willingness to buy her, which meant as
much as to say, Your daughter pleases me. ' As proud as you
please, I walked through the buildings. Everything in plenty, all
right, not a nail wanting on the harrow, nor a cord missing from
the harness. How I strutted! I saw myself master, and I was
tickled to death to be as rich as my brother.
«But I reckoned without my host. On tiptoe I stole into the
kitchen, where my sweetheart was frying ham and eggs. I
thought I might snatch a kiss. Above the noise of the sizzling
frying-pan and the crackling wood, I plainly heard the voice of
my-well, let us say it-bride, weeping and complaining to an
old house servant: 'It's a shame and a sin to enter matrimony
with a lie. I can't wed this Michael: not because he is ugly;
that doesn't matter in a man, but he comes too late! My heart


## p. 449 (#483) ############################################

JOHANNA AMBROSIUS
449
belongs to poor Joseph, the woodcutter, and I'd sooner be turned
out of doors than to make a false promise. Money blinds my
mother's eyes! Don't be surprised, little sister, that I remember
these words so well. A son doesn't forget his father's blessing,
nor a prisoner his sentence. This was my sentence to poverty
and single-blessedness. I sent word to Marianne that she should
be happy — and so she was.
“But now to my own story. I worked six years as farm hand
for my rich brother, and then love overtook me. The little
housemaid caught me in the net of her golden locks. What a
fuss it made in our family! A peasant's pride is as stiff as that
of your Vous' and Zus. My girl had only a pair of willing
hands and a good heart to give to an ugly, pock-marked being
like me. My mother (God grant her peace! ) caused her many a
tear, and when I brought home my Lotte she wouldn't keep the
peace until at last she found out that happiness depends on kind-
ness more than on money. On the patch of land that I bought,
my wife and I lived as happily as people live when there's love
in the house and a bit of bread to spare. We worked hard and
spent little.
A long, scoured table, a wooden bench or so, a
chest or two of coarse linen, and a few pots and pans — that was
our furniture. The walls had never tasted whitewash, but Lotte
kept them scoured, She went to church barefoot, and put on
her shoes at the door. Good things such as coffee and plums,
that the poorest hut has now-a-days, we never saw. We didn't
save much, for crops sold cheap. But I didn't speculate, nor
squeeze money from the sweat of the poor. In time five pretty
little chatterboxes arrived, all flaxen-haired girls with blue eyes,
or brown. I was satisfied with girls, but the mother hankered
after a boy. That's a poor father that prefers a son to a
daughter. A man ought to take boys and girls alike, just as
God sends them. I was glad enough to work for my girls, and
I didn't worry about their future, nor build castles in the air for
them to live in. After fifteen years the boy arrived, but he took
himself quickly out of the world and coaxed his mother away
with him. ”
Little brother was silent, and bowed his snow-white head. ' My
heart felt as if the dead wife flitted through the room and gently
touched the old fellow's thin locks. I saw him kneeling at her
death-bed, heard the little girls sobbing, and waited in silence till
he drew himself up, sighing deeply:-
1-29


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450
JOHANNA AMBROSIUS
My
“My Lotte died; she left me alone. What didn't I promise
the dear Lord in those black hours! My life, my savings, yea, all
my children if He would but leave her to me. In vain.
thoughts are not thy thoughts, saith the Lord, and My ways
are not thy ways. ' It was night in my soul.
I cried over my
children, and I only half did my work. At night 'I tumbled into
bed tearless and prayerless. Oh, sad time! God vainly knocked at
my heart's door until the children fell ill. Oh, what would become
of me if these flowers were gathered ? What wealth these rosy
mouths meant to me, how gladly would they smile away my sor-
row! I had set myself up above the Lord. But by my children's
bedside I prayed for grace. They all recovered.
I took my
motherless brood to God's temple to thank Him there. Church-
going won't bring salvation, but staying away from church makes
a man stupid and coarse.
“But I am forgetting, little sister. I started to tell you
about my fifteen children. You see I made up my mind that I
had to find a mother for the chicks. I wouldn't chain a young
thing to my bonds, even if she understood housekeeping. I held
to the saying, Equal wealth, equal birth, equal years make a
good match. When an old widower courts a young girl he looks
at her faults with a hundred eyes when he measures her with
his first wife. But a home without a wife is like spring with-
out blossoms. So, thinking this way, I chose a widow with ten
children. ”
Twirling his thumbs, little brother smiled gayly as he looked
at me. « Five and ten make fifteen, I thought, and when fifteen
prayers rise to heaven, the Lord must hear.
My two eldest
stepsons entered military service. We wouldn't spend all our
money on the boys and then console our poor girls with a hus-
band. I put three sons to trades. But my girls were my pride.
They learned every kind of work. When they could cook, wash,
and spin, we sent them into good households to learn more.
Two married young.
Some of the rest are seamstresses and
housekeepers. One is a secretary, and our golden-haired Miez is
lady's-maid to the Countess H- Both these girls are be-
trothed. Miez is the brightest, and she managed to learn, even
at the village school. So much is written about education nowa-
days,” (little brother drew himself up proudly as he added, "I
take a newspaper,”) “but the real education is to keep children
at work and make them unselfish. They must love their work,


## p. 451 (#485) ############################################

JOHANNA AMBROSIUS
451
Work and pray, these were my rules, and thank Heaven! all my
children are good and industrious.
“Just think, last summer my dear girls sent me a suit of fine
city clothes and money to go a journey, begging their old father
to make them a visit. On, how pretty they looked when they
showed me round the city in spite of my homespun, for I
couldn't bring myself to wear the fine clothes, after all. The
best dressed one was our little lady's-maid, who had a gold watch
in her belt. So I said: 'Listen, child, that is not fit for you. '
But she only laughed. Indeed it is, little father.
'If my gra-
cious lady makes me a present, I'm not likely to be mistaken for
her on that account. '-'And girls, are you contented to be in
service ? ' — Certainly, father: unless there are both masters and
servants the world would go out of its grooves. My good
Countess makes service so light, that we love and serve her.
Yes, little father,' added Miez, my gracious mistress chose Gus-
tav for me, and is going to pay for the wedding and start us in
housekeeping - God bless her! Now see what good such a
woman does. If people would but learn that it takes . wits to
command as well as to obey, they would get along well enough
in these new times of equality. Thank heaven! we country folk
shan't be ruined by idleness. When I saw my thatched roof
again, among the fir-trees, I felt as solemn as if I were going to
prayers. The blue smoke looked like incense. I folded my
hands, I thanked God. ”
Little brother arose, his eyes bright with tears. He cast a
wistful look toward the apples in the chimney: "My old wife,
little sister ? ” — “Certainly, take them all, little brother, you are
heartily welcome to them. "-"We are like children, my wife and
I, we carry tidbits to each other, now that our birds have all
flown away. ” — " That is right, old boy, and God keep thee! ” I
said. From the threshold the words echoed back, "God keep
thee! »
Translation of Miss H. Geist.
STRUGGLE AND PEACE
QUARTER-CENTURY warfare woke
No sabre clash nor powder smoke,
No triumph song nor battle cry;
Their shields no templared knights stood by.
A


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452
JOHANNA AMBROSIUS
Though fought were many battles hot,
Of any fight the world knew not
How great the perils often grew —
God only knew.
Within my deepest soul-depths torn,
In hands and feet wounds bleeding borne,
Trodden beneath the chargers' tread,
How I endured, felt, suffered, bled,
How wept and groaned I in my woe,
When scoffed the malice-breathing foe,
How pierced his scorn my spirit through,
God only knew.
The evening nears; cool zephyrs blow;
The struggle wild doth weaker grow;
The air with scarce a sigh is filled
From the pale mouth; the blood is stilled.
Quieted now my bitter pain;
A faint star lights the heavenly plain;
Peace cometh after want and woe
My God doth know.
DO THOU LOVE, TOO!
THE
He waves they whisper
In Luna's glance,
Entrancing music
For the nixies' dance.
They beckon, smiling,
And wavewise woo,
While softly plashing :-
“Do thou love, too! »
In blossoming lindens
Doves fondly rear
Their tender fledglings
From year to year.
With never a pausing,
They bill and coo,
And twitter gently:-
“Do thou love, too ! »


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EDMONDO DE AMICIS
453
INVITATION
H
ow long wilt stand outside and cower ?
Come straight within, beloved guest.
The winds are fierce this wintry hour:
Come, stay awhile with me and rest.
You wander begging shelter vainly
A weary time from door to door ;
I see what you have suffered plainly:
Come, rest with me and stray no more!
And nestle by me, trusting-hearted;
Lay in my loving hands your head:
Then back shall come your peace departed,
Through the world's baseness long since fled;
And deep from out your heart upspringing,
Love's downy wings will soar to view,
The darling smiles like magic bringing
Around your gloomy lips anew.
Come, rest: myself will here detain you,
So long as pulse of mine shall beat;
Nor shall my heart grow cold and pain you,
Till carried to your last retreat.
You gaze at me in doubting fashion,
Before the offered rapture dumb;
Tears and still tears your sole expression:
Bedew my bosom with them - come!
EDMONDO DE AMICIS
(1846-)
1869, Vita Militare' (Military Life), a collection of short
stories, was perhaps the most popular Italian volume of the
year. Read alike in court and cottage, it was everywhere
discussed and enthusiastically praised. Its prime quality was that
quivering sympathy which insures some success to any imaginative
work, however crudely written. But these sketches of all the grim
and amusing phases of Italian soldier life are drawn with an exqui-
site precision. The reader feels the breathless discouragement of
the tired soldiers when new dusty vistas are revealed by a sudden
turn in the road (“A Midsummer March'); understands the strong


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454
EDMONDO DE AMICIS
silent love between officer and orderly, suppressed by military eti-
quette (“The Orderly'); smiles with the soldiers at the pretty runa-
way boy, idol of the regiment (The Son of the Regiment'): pities
the humiliations of the conscript novice ("The Conscript'); thrills
with the proud sorrow of the old man whose son's colonel tells the
story of his heroic death ('Dead on the field of Battle').
( When I
had finished reading it,” said an Italian workman, "I would gladly
have pressed the hand of the first soldier whom I happened to
meet. ” The author was only twenty-three, and has since given the
world many delightful volumes, but nothing finer.
These sketches were founded upon personal knowledge, for De
Amicis began life as a soldier. After his early education at Coni
and Turin, he entered the military school at Modena, from which he
was sent out as sub-lieutenant in the third regiment of the line. He
saw active service in various expeditions against Sicilian brigands;
and in the war with Austria he fought at the battle of Custozza.
His literary power seems to have been early
manifest; for in 1867 he became manager
of a newspaper, L'Italia Militare, at Flor-
ence; and in 1871, yielding to his friends'
persuasions, he settled down to authorship
at Turin. His second book was the "Ricordi,'
memorials dedicated to the youth of Italy,
of national events which had come within
his experience. Half a dozen later stories
published together were also very popular,
especially (Gli Amici di Collegio (College
Friends), Fortezza,' and 'La Casa Paterna'
(The Paternal Home). He has written
EDMONDO DE Amicis
some graceful verse as well.
But De Amicis soon craved the stimulus of novel environments,
of differing personalities; and he set out upon the travels which he
has so delightfully recounted. This ardent Italian longed for the
repose of “a gray sky," a critic tells us. He went first to Holland,
* and experienced a joyous satisfaction in the careful art of that trim
little land. Later, a visit to North Africa in the suite of the Italian
ambassador prompted a brilliant volume, Morocco,' which glitters
and flashes like a Damascus blade. ” Among his other well-known
books, descriptive of other trips, are Holland and Its People,'
(Spain, London, Paris,' and 'Constantinople,' which, translated
into many languages, have been widely read.
That unfortunate though not uncommon traveler who finds ennui
everywhere must envy De Amicis his inexhaustible enthusiasm, his
power of epicurean enjoyment in the color and glory of every land.

(


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EDMONDO DE AMICIS
455
His is a curiously optimistic nature. Always perceiving the beautiful
and picturesque in art and nature, he treats other aspects hopefully,
and ignores them when he may. He catches what is characteristic
in every nation as inevitably as he catches the physiognomy of a
land with its skies and its waters, its flowers and its atmosphere.
His is a realism transfigured by poetic imagination, which divines
essential things and places them in high relief.
Very early in life De Amicis announced his love and admiration
of Manzoni, of whom he called himself a disciple. But his is a very
different mind. This Italian, born at Onéglia of Genoese parents,
has inherited the emotional nature of his country. He sees every-
thing with feeling, penetrating below the surface with sympathetic
insight. Italy gives him his sensuous zest in life. But from France,
through his love of her vigor and grace, his cordial admiration of
her literature, he has gained a refining and strengthening influence.
She has taught him that direct diction, that choice simplicity, which
forsakes the stilted Italian of literary tradition for a style far
simpler, stronger, and more natural.
All selections used by permission of G. P. Putnam's Sons
THE LIGHT
From Constantinople
A
Nd first of all, the light! One of my dearest delights at Con-
stantinople was to see the sun rise and set, standing upon
the bridge of the Sultana Validé. At dawn, in autumn, the
Golden Horn is almost always covered by a light fog, behind
which the city is seen vaguely, like those gauze curtains that
descend upon the stage to conceal the preparations for a scenic
spectacle. Scutari is quite hidden; nothing is to be seen but the
dark uncertain outline of her hills. The bridge and the shores
are deserted, Constantinople sleeps; the solitude and silence render
the spectacle more solemn. The sky begins to grow golden
behind the hills of Scutari. Upon that luminous strip are drawn,
one by one, black and clear, the tops of the cypress trees in the
vast cemetery, like an army of giants ranged upon the heights;
and from one cape of the Golden Horn to the other there shines
a tremulous light, faint as the first murmur of the awakening
city. Then behind the cypresses of the Asiatic shore comes forth
an eye of fire, and suddenly the white tops of the four minarets
of Saint Sophia are tinted with deep rose. In a few minutes,


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EDMONDO DE AMICIS
from hill to hill, from mosque to mosque, down to the end of the
Golden Horn, all the minarets, one after the other, turn rose
color; all the domes, one by one, are silvered, the flush descends
from terrace to terrace, the tremulous light spreads, the great
veil melts, and all Stamboul appears, rosy and resplendent upon
her heights, blue and violet along the shores, fresh and young, as
if just risen from the waters.
As the sun rises, the delicacy of the first tints vanishes in an
immense illumination, and everything remains bathed in white
light until toward evening. Then the divine spectacle begins
again. The air is so limpid that from Galata one can see clearly
every distant tree, as far as Kadi-Kioi. The whole of the
immense profile of Stamboul stands out against the sky with such
a clearness of line and rigor of color, that every minaret, obelisk,
and cypress-tree can be counted, one by one, from Seraglio Point
to the cemetery of Eyub. The Golden Horn and the Bosphorus
assume a wonderful ultramarine color; the heavens, the color of
amethyst in the East, are afire behind Stamboul, tinting the hori-
zon with infinite lights of rose and carbuncle, that make one
think of the first day of the creation; Stamboul darkens, Galata
becomes golden, and Scutari, struck by the last rays of the set-
ting sun, with every pane of glass giving back the glow, looks
like a city on fire.
And this is the moment to contemplate Constantinople. There
is one rapid succession of the softest tints, pallid gold, rose and
lilac, which quiver and float over the sides of the hills and the
water, every moment giving and taking away the prize of beauty
from each part of the city, and revealing a thousand modest
graces of the landscape that have not dared to show themselves
in the full light.
Great melancholy suburbs are lost in the
shadow of the valleys; little purple cities smile upon the heights;
villages faint as if about to die; others die at once like extin-
guished flames; others, that seemed already dead, revive, and
glow, and quiver yet a moment longer under the last ray of the
sun. Then there is nothing left but two resplendent points upon
the Asiatic shore,- the summit of Mount Bulgurlu, and the
extremity of the cape that guards the entrance to the Propontis;
they are at first two golden crowns, then two purple caps, then
two rubies; then all Constantinople is in shadow, and ten thou-
sand voices from ten thousand minarets announce the close of
the day.


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EDMONDO DE AMICIS
457
RESEMBLANCES
From Constantinople
How many
N the first days, fresh as I was from the perusal of Oriental
literature, I saw everywhere the famous personages of history
and legend, and the figures that recalled them resembled
sometimes so faithfully those that were fixed in my imagination,
that I was constrained to stop and look at them.
times have I seized my friend by the arm, and pointing to a
person passing by, have exclaimed: "It is he, cospetto! do you
not recognize him ? ” In the square of the Sultana Validé, I fre-
quently saw the gigantic Turk who threw down millstones from
the walls of Nicæa on the heads of the soldiers of Baglione; I
saw in front of a mosque Umm Djemil, that old fury that sowed
brambles and nettles before Mahomet's house; I met in the book
bazaar, with a volume under his arm, Djem aleddin, the learned
man of Broussa, who knew the whole of the Arab dictionary by
heart; I passed quite close to the side of Ayesha, the favorite
wife of the Prophet, and she fixed upon my face her eyes, brill-
iant and humid, like the reflection of stars in a well; I have
recognized, in the At-Meidan, the famous beauty of that poor
Greek woman killed by a cannon ball at the base of the serpent-
ine column; I have been face to face, in the Fanar, with Kara-
Abderrahman, the handsome young Turk of the time of Orkhan;
I have seen Coswa, the she-camel of the Prophet; I have en-
countered Kara-bulut, Selim's black steed; I have met the poor
poet Fignahi, condemned to go about Stamboul tied to an ass
for having pierced with an insolent distich the Grand Vizier of
Ibrahim; I have been in the same café with Soliman the Big,
the monstrous admiral, whom four robust slaves hardly succeeded
in lifting from the divan; Ali, the Grand Vizier, who could not
find in all Arabia a horse that could carry him; Mahmoud Pasha,
the ferocious Hercules that strangled the son of Soliman; and the
stupid Ahmed Second, who continually repeated « Koso! Koso! »
(Very well, very well) crouching before the door of the copyists'
bazaar, in the square of Bajazet. All the personages of the
Thousand and One Nights, the Aladdins, the Zobeides, the
Sindbads, the Gulnares, the old Jewish merchants, possessors of
enchanted carpets and wonderful lamps, passed before me like a
procession of phantoms.


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EDMONDO DE AMICIS
BIRDS
From "Constantinople )
CON
ONSTANTINOPLE has one grace and gayety peculiar to itself,
that comes from an infinite number of birds of every kind,
for which the Turks nourish a warm sentiment and regard.
Mosques, groves, old walls, gardens, palaces, all resound with
song, the whistling and twittering of birds; everywhere wings
are fluttering, and life and harmony abound. The sparrows enter
the houses boldly, and eat out of women's and children's hands;
swallows nest over the café doors, and under the arches of the
bazaars; pigeons in innumerable swarms, maintained by legacies
from sultans and private individuals, form garlands of black and
white along the cornices of the cupolas and around the terraces
of the minarets; sea-gulls dart and play over the water; thousands
of turtle-doves coo amorously among the cypresses in the ceme-
teries; crows croak about the Castle of the Seven Towers hal-
cyons come and go in long files between the Black Sea and
the Sea of Marmora; and storks sit upon the cupolas of the
mausoleums. For the Turk, each one of these birds has a gentle
meaning, or a benignant virtue: turtle-doves are favorable to
lovers, swallows keep away fire from the roofs where they build
their nests, storks make yearly pilgrimages to Mecca, halcyons
carry the souls of the faithful to Paradise. Thus he protects and
feeds them, through a sentiment of gratitude and piety; and they
enliven the house, the sea, and the sepulchre. Every quarter of
Stamboul is full of the noise of them, bringing to the city a sense
of the pleasures of country life, and continually refreshing the
soul with a reminder of nature.
CORDOVA
From (Spain)
F
or a long distance the country offers no new aspect to the
feverish curiosity of the tourist. At Vilches there is a vast
plain, and beyond there the open country of Tolosa, where
Alphonso VIII. , King of Castile, gained the celebrated victory
«de las Navas” over the Mussulman army. The sky was very
clear, and in the distance one could see the mountains of the
Sierra de Segura. Suddenly, there comes one a sensation
over


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EDMONDO DE AMICIS
459
which seems to respond to a suppressed exclamation of surprise:
the first aloes with their thick leaves, the unexpected heralds of
tropical vegetation, rise on both sides of the road. Beyond, the
fields studded with flowers begin to appear. The first are studded,
those which follow almost covered, then come vast stretches of
ground entirely clothed with poppies, daisies, lilies, wild mush-
rooms, and ranunculuses, so that the country (as it presents itself
to view) looks like a succession of immense purple, gold, and
snowy-hued carpets. In the distance, among the trees, are in-
numerable blue, white, and yellow streaks, as far as the eye can
reach; and nearer, on the banks of the ditches, the elevations of
ground, the slopes, and even on the edge of the road are flowers
in beds, clumps, and clusters, one above the other, grouped in
the form of great bouquets, and trembling on their stalks, which
one can almost touch with his hand. Then there are fields white
with great blades of grain, flanked by plantations of roses, orange
groves, immense olive groves, and hillsides varied by a thousand
shades of green, surmounted by ancient Moorish towers, scattered
with many-colored houses; and between the one and the other
are white and slender bridges that cross rivulets hidden by the
trees.
On the horizon appear the snowy caps of the Sierra Nevada;
under that white streak lie the undulating blue ones of the nearer
mountains. The country becomes more varied and flourishing;
Arjonilla lies in a grove of olives, whose boundary one cannot
see; Pedro Abad, in the midst of a plain, covered with vineyards
and fruit-trees; Ventas di Alcolea, on the last hills of the Sierra
Nevada, peopled with villas and gardens. We are approaching
Cordova, the train Aies along, we see little stations half hidden
by trees and flowers, the wind carries the rose leaves into the
carriages, great butterflies fly near the windows, a delicious per-
fume permeates the air, the travelers sing; we pass through an
enchanted garden, the aloes, oranges, palms, and villas grow
,
more frequent; and at last we hear a cry—“Here is Cordova!
How many lovely pictures and grand recollections the sound
of that name awakens in one's mind! Cordova, — the ancient
pearl of the East, as the Arabian poets call it,- the city of
cities; Cordova of the thirty suburbs and three thousand mosques,
which inclosed within her walls the greatest temple of Islam!
Her fame extended throughout the East, and obscured the glory
of ancient Damascus. The faithful came from the most remote
(
-


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460
EDMONDO DE AMICIS
even
&
I am
regions of Asia to banks of the Guadalquivir to prostrate them-
selves in the marvelous Mihrab of her mosque, in the light of the
thousand bronze lamps cast from the bells of the cathedrals of
Spain. Hither flocked artists, savants, poets from every part of
the Mahometan world to her flourishing schools, immense libra-
ries, and the magnificent courts of her caliphs.
. Riches and
beauty flowed in, attracted by the fame of her splendor. From
here they scattered, eager for knowledge, along the coasts of
Africa, through the schools of Tunis, Cairo, Bagdad, Cufa, and
to India and China, in order to gather inspiration and
records; and the poetry sung on the slopes of the Sierra Morena
flew from lyre to lyre, as far as the valleys of the Caucasus, to
excite the ardor for pilgrimages. The beautiful, powerful, and
wise Cordova, crowned with three thousand villages, proudly
raised her white minarets in the midst of orange groves, and
spread around the valley a voluptuous atmosphere of joy and
glory.
I leave the train, cross a garden, look around me.
alone. The travelers who were with me disappear here and
there; I still hear the noise of a carriage which is rolling off;
then all is quiet. It is midday, the sky is very clear, and the
air suffocating I see two white houses; it is the opening of a
street; I enter and go on. The street is narrow, the houses as
small as the little villas on the slopes of artificial gardens,
almost all one story in height, with windows a few feet from
the ground, the roofs so low that one could almost touch them
with a stick, and the walls very white. The street turns; I
look, see no one, and hear neither step nor voice. I say to
myself:-“This must be an abandoned street ! ” and try another
one, in which the houses are white, the windows closed, and
there is nothing but silence and solitude around me. “Why,
where am I? ” I ask myself. I go on; the street, which is so
narrow that a carriage could not pass, begins to wind; on the
right and left I see other deserted streets, white houses, and
closed windows. My step resounds as if in a corridor. The
whiteness of the walls is so vivid that even the reflection is
trying, and I am obliged to walk with my eyes half closed, for
it really seems as if I were making my way through the snow.
I reach a small square; everything is closed, and no one is to
be seen.
At this point a vague feeling of melancholy seizes
me, such as I have never experienced before; a mixture of


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pleasure and sadness, similar to that which comes to children
when, after a long run, they reach a lonely rural spot and
rejoice in their discovery, but with a certain trepidation lest
they should be too far from home. Above many roofs rise the
palm-trees of inner gardens. Oh, fantastic legends of Odalisk
and Caliph! On I go from street to street, and square to
square; I begin to meet some people, but they pass and disap-
pear like phantoms. All the streets resemble each other; the
houses have only three or four windows; and not a spot, scrawl,
or crack is to be seen on the walls, which are as smooth and
white as a sheet of paper. From time to time I hear a whisper
behind a blind, and see, almost at the same moment, a dark
head, with a flower in the hair, appear and disappear. I look
in at a door.
A patio! How shall I describe a patio ? It is not a court,
nor a garden, nor a room; but it is all three things combined.
Between the patio and the street there is a vestibule. On the
four sides of the patio rise slender columns, which support, up
to a level with the first floor, a species of gallery inclosed in
glass; above the gallery is stretched a canvas, which shades the
court. The vestibule is paved with marble, the door flanked
by columns, surmounted by bas-reliefs, and closed by a slender
iron gate of graceful design. At the end of the patio there is
a fountain; and all around are scattered chairs, work-tables,
pictures, and vases of flowers. I run to another door: there is
another patio, with its walls covered with ivy, and a number of
niches holding little statues, busts, and urns. I look in at a third
door: here is another patio, with its walls worked in mosaics, a
palm in the centre, and a mass of flowers all around. I stop at
a fourth door: after the patio there is another vestibule, after this
a second patio, in which one sees other statues, columns, and
fountains. All these rooms and gardens are so neat and clean
that one could pass his hand over the walls and on the ground
without leaving a trace; and they are fresh, odorous, and lighted
by an uncertain light, which increases their beauty and mysterious
appearance.
On I go at random from street to street. As I walk, my
curiosity increases and I quicken my pace, It seems impossible
that a whole city can be like this; I am afraid of stumbling
across some house or coming into some street that will remind
me of other cities, and disturb my beautiful dream. But no, the


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dream lasts; for everything is small, lovely, and mysterious. At
every hundred steps I reach a deserted square, in which I stop
and hold my breath; from time to time there appears a cross-
road, and not a living soul is to be seen; everything is white,
the windows closed, and silence reigns on all sides. At each
door there is a new spectacle; there are arches, columns, flowers,
jets of water, and palms; a marvelous variety of design, tints,
light, and perfume; here the odor of roses, there of oranges,
farther on of pinks; and with this perfume a whiff of fresh air,
and with the air a subdued sound of women's voices, the rustling
of leaves, and the singing of birds. It is a sweet and varied
harmony, that without disturbing the silence of the streets,
soothes the ear like the echo of distant music. Ah! it is not a
dream! Madrid, Italy, Europe, are indeed far away!
Here one
lives another life, and breathes the air of a different world, for
I am in the East.
THE LAND OF PLUCK
From (Holland and Its People'
W*
HOEVER looks for the first time at a large map of Holland
wonders that a country so constituted can continue to
exist. At the first glance it is difficult to see whether
land or water predominates, or whether Holland belongs most to
the continent or to the sea. Those broken and compressed
coasts; those deep bays; those great rivers that, losing the aspect
of rivers, seem bringing new seas to the sea; that sea which,
changing itself into rivers, penetrates the land and breaks it into
archipelagoes; the lakes, the vast morasses, the canals crossing
and recrossing each other, all combine to give the idea of a
country that may at any moment disintegrate and disappear.
Seals and beavers would seem to be its rightful inhabitants; but
since there are men bold enough to live in it, they surely cannot
ever sleep in peace.
What sort of a country Holland is, has been told by many in
few words. Napoleon said it was an alluvion of French rivers, -
.
the Rhine, the Scheldt, and the Meuse, -- and with this pretext he
added it to the Empire. One writer has defined it as a sort of
transition between land and sea. Another, as an immense crust
of earth floating on the water. Others, an annex of the old


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continent, the China of Europe, . the end of the earth and the
beginning of the ocean, a measureless raft of mud and sand;
and Philip II. called it the country nearest to hell.
But they all agreed upon one point, and all expressed it in
the same words: Holland is a conquest made by man over the
sea; it is an artificial country: the Hollanders made it; it exists
because the Hollanders preserve it; it will vanish whenever the
Hollanders shall abandon it.
To comprehend this truth, we must imagine Holland as it was
when first inhabited by the first German tribes that wandered
away in search of a country.
It was almost uninhabitable. There were vast tempestuous
lakes, like seas, touching one another; morass beside morass; one
tract after another covered with brushwood; immense forests of
pines, oaks, and alders, traversed by herds of wild horses, and
so thick were these forests that tradition says one could travel
leagues passing from tree to tree without ever putting foot to the
ground. The deep bays and gulfs carried into the heart of the
country the fury of the northern tempests. Some provinces dis-
appeared once every year under the waters of the sea, and were
nothing but muddy tracts, neither land nor water, where it was
impossible either to walk or to sail. The large rivers, without
sufficient inclination to descend to the sea, wandered here and
there uncertain of their way, and slept in monstrous pools and
ponds among the sands of the coasts. It was a sinister place,
swept by furious winds, beaten by obstinate rains, veiled in a
perpetual fog, where nothing was heard but the roar of the sea
and the voices of wild beasts and birds of the ocean. The first
people who had the courage to plant their tents there, had to
raise with their own hands dikes of earth to keep out the rivers
and the sea, and lived within them like shipwrecked men upon
desolate islands, venturing forth at the subsidence of the waters
in quest of food in the shape of fish and game, and gathering the
eggs of marine birds upon the sand.
Cæsar, passing by, was the first to name this people. The
other Latin historians speak with compassion and respect of these
intrepid barbarians who lived upon a “floating land,” exposed to
”
the intemperance of a cruel sky and the fury of the mysterious
northern sea; and the imagination pictures the Roman soldiers,
who, from the heights of the uttermost citadels of the empire,
beaten by the waves, contemplated with wonder and pity those


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wandering tribes upon their desolate land, like a race accursed of
heaven.
Now, if we remember that such a region has become one of ,
the most fertile, wealthiest, and best regulated of the countries
of the world, we shall understand the justice of the saying that
Holland is a conquest made by man. But, it must be added, the
conquest goes on forever.
To explain this fact - to show how the existence of Holland,
in spite of the great defensive works constructed by the inhabit-
ants, demands an incessant and most perilous struggle - it will
be enough to touch here and there upon a few of the principal
vicissitudes of her physical history, from the time when her
inhabitants had already reduced her to a habitable country.
Tradition speaks of a great inundation in Friesland in the
sixth century. From that time every gulf, every island, and it
may be said every city, in Holland has its catastrophe to record.
In thirteen centuries, it is recorded that one great inundation,
beside smaller ones, has occurred every seven years; and the
country being all plain, these inundations were veritable floods.
Towards the end of the thirteenth century, the sea destroyed a
part of a fertile peninsula near the mouth of the Ems, and swal-
lowed up more than thirty villages. In the course of the same
century, a series of inundations opened an immense chasm in
northern Holland, and formed the Zuyder Zee, causing the death
of more than eighty thousand persons. In 1421 a tempest swelled
the Meuse, so that in one night the waters overwhelmed seventy-
two villages and one hundred thousand inhabitants. In 1532 the
sea burst the dikes of Zealand, destroying hundreds of villages,
and covering forever a large tract of country. In 1570 a storm
caused another inundation in Zealand and in the province of
Utrecht; Amsterdam was invaded by the waters, and in Fries-
land twenty thousand people were drowned. Other great inunda-
tions took place in the seventeenth century; two terrible ones at
the beginning and the end of the eighteenth; one in 1825 that
desolated North Holland, Friesland, Over-Yssel, and Gueldres;
and another great one of the Rhine, in 1855, which invaded
Gueldres and the province of Utrecht, and covered a great part
of North Brabant. Beside these great catastrophes, there hap-
pened in different centuries innumerable smaller ones, which
would have been famous in any other country, but which in
Holland are scarcely remembered: like the rising of the lake of


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Haarlem, itself the result of an inundation of the sea; flourishing
cities of the gulf of Zuyder Zee vanished under the waters; the
islands of Zealand covered again and again by the sea, and again
emerging; villages of the coast, from Helder to the mouths of
the Meuse, from time to time inundated and destroyed; and in
all these inundations immense loss of life of men and animals
It is plain that miracles of courage, constancy, and industry must
have been accomplished by the Hollanders, first in creating and
afterwards in preserving such a country. The enemy from which
they had to wrest it was triple: the sea, the lakes, the rivers.
They drained the lakes, drove back the sea, and imprisoned the
rivers.
To drain the lakes the Hollanders pressed the air into their
service. The lakes, the marshes, were surrounded by dikes, the
dikes by canals; and an army of windmills, putting in motion
force-pumps, turned the water into the canals, which carried it
off to the rivers and the sea. Thus vast tracts of land buried
under the water saw the sun, and were transformed, as if by
magic, into fertile fields, covered with villages, and intersected by
canals and roads. In the seventeenth century, in less than forty
years, twenty-six lakes were drained. At the beginning of the
present century, in North Holland alone, more than six thousand
hectares (or fifteen thousand acres) were thus redeemed from the
waters; in South Holland, before 1844, twenty-nine thousand
hectares; in the whole of Holland, from 1500 to 1858, three hun-
dred and fifty-five thousand hectares. Substituting steam-mills
for windmills, in thirty-nine months was completed the great
undertaking of the draining of the lake of Haarlem, which meas-
ured forty-four kilometres in circumference, and forever threatened
with its tempests the cities of Haarlem, Amsterdam, and Leyden.
And they are now meditating the prodigious work of drying up
the Zuyder Zee, which embraces an area of more than seven
hundred square kilometres.
The rivers, another eternal enemy, cost no less of labor and
sacrifice. Some, like the Rhine, which lost itself in the sands
before reaching the sea, had to be channeled and defended at
their mouths, against the tides, by formidable cataracts; others,
like the Meuse, bordered by dikes as powerful as those that
were raised against the ocean; others, turned from their course;
the wandering waters gathered together; the course of the afflu-
ents regulated; the waters divided with rigorous measure in order
1-30


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ocean.
to retain that enormous mass of liquid in equilibrium, where the
slightest inequality might cost a province; and in this way all
the rivers that formerly spread their devastating floods about
the country were disciplined into channels and constrained to do
service.
But the most tremendous struggle was the battle with the
Holland is in great part lower than the level of the sea;
consequently, everywhere that the coast is not defended by sand-
banks it has to be protected by dikes. If these interminable bul-
warks of earth, granite, and wood were not there to attest the
indomitable courage and perseverance of the Hollanders, it would
not be believed that the hand of man could, even in many cen-
turies, have accomplished such a work. In Zealand alone the
dikes extend to a distance of more than four hundred kilometres.
The western coast of the island of Walcheren is defended by a
dike, in which it is computed that the expense of construction
added to that of preservation, if it were put out at interest,
would amount to a sum equal in value to that which the dike
itself would be worth were it made of massive copper. Around
the city of Helder, at the northern extremity of North Holland,
extends a dike ten kilometres long, constructed of masses of Nor-
wegian granite, which descends more than sixty metres into the
sea. The whole province of Friesland, for the length of eighty-
eight kilometres, is defended by three rows of piles sustained by
masses of Norwegian and German granite. Amsterdam, all the
cities of the Zuyder Zee, and all the islands, - fragments of van-
ished lands, — which are strung like beads between Friesland and
North Holland, are protected by dikes. From the mouths of the
Ems to those of the Scheldt, Holland is an impenetrable fortress,
of whose immense bastions the mills are the towers, the cataracts
are the gates, the islands the advanced forts; and like a true
fortress, it shows to its enemy, the sea, only the tops of its bell-
towers and the roofs of its houses, as if in defiance and derision.
Holland is a fortress, and her people live as in a fortress, on
a war footing with the sea. An army of engineers, directed by
the Minister of the Interior, spread over the country, and, ordered
like an army, continually spy the enemy, watch over the internal
waters, foresee the bursting of the dikes, order and direct the
defensive works. The expenses of the war are divided, -one
part to the State, one part to the provinces; every proprietor
pays, beside the general imposts, a special impost for the dikes,


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in proportion to the extent of his lands and their proximity to
the water. An accidental rupture, an inadvertence, may cause a
flood; the peril is unceasing; the sentinels are at their posts upon
the bulwarks; at the first assault of the sea, they shout the war-
cry, and Holland sends men, material, and money. And even
when there is no great battle, a quiet, silent struggle is forever
going on. The innumerable mills, even in the drained districts,
continue to work unresting, to absorb and turn into the canals
the water that falls in rain and that which filters in from the sea.
Every day the cataracts of the bays and rivers close their gigan-
tic gates against the high tide trying to rush into the heart of
the land. The work of strengthening dikes, fortifying sand-banks
with plantations, throwing out new dikes where the banks are
low, straight as great lances, vibrating in the bosom of the sea
and breaking the first impetus of the wave, is forever going on.
And the sea eternally knocks at the river-gates, beats upon the
ramparts, growls on every side her ceaseless menace, lifting her
curious waves as if to see the land she counts as hers, piling up
banks of sand before the gates to kill the commerce of the cities,
forever gnawing, scratching, digging at the coast; and failing to
overthrow the ramparts upon which she foams and fumes in
angry effort, she casts at their feet ships full of the dead, that
they may announce to the rebellious country her fury and her
strength.
In the midst of this great and terrible struggle Holland is
transformed: Holland is the land of transformations.
graphical map of that country as it existed eight centuries ago
is not recognizable. Transforming the sea, men also are trans-
formed The sea, at some points, drives back the land; it takes
portions from the continent, leaves them and takes them again;
joins islands to the mainland with ropes of sand, as in the case
of Zealand; breaks off bits from the mainland and makes new
islands, as in Wieringen; retires from certain coasts and makes
land cities out of what were cities of the sea, as Leuvarde; con-
verts vast tracts of plain into archipelagoes of a hundred islets,
as Biisbosch; separates a city from the land, as Dordrecht; forms
new gulfs two leagues broad, like the gulf of Dollart; divides
two provinces with a new sea, like North Holland and Friesland.
The effect of the inundations is to cause the level of the sea to
rise in some places and to sink in others; sterile lands are fertil-
ized by the slime of the rivers, fertile lands are changed into
A geo-


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deserts of sand. With the transformations of the waters alternate
the transformations of labor. Islands are united to continents,
like the island of Ameland; entire provinces are reduced to
islands, as North Holland will be by the new canal of Amster-
dam, which is to separate it from South Holland; lakes as large
as provinces disappear altogether, like the lake of Beemster; by
the extraction of peat, land is converted into lakes, and these
lakes are again transformed into meadows. And thus the country
changes its aspect according to the violence of nature or the
needs of men. And while one goes over it with the latest map
in hand, one may be sure that the map will be useless in a few
years, because even now there are new gulfs in process of forma-
tion, tracts of land just ready to be detached from the mainland,
and great canals being cut that will carry life to uninhabited dis-
tricts.
But Holland has done more than defend herself against the
waters; she has made herself mistress of them, and has used
them for her own defense. Should a foreign army invade her
territory, she has but to open her dikes and unchain the sea and
the rivers, as she did against the Romans, against the Spaniards,
against the army of Louis XIV. , and defend the land cities with
her fleet. Water was the source of her poverty, she has made
it the source of wealth. Over the whole country extends an
immense network of canals, which serves both for the irrigation
of the land and as a means of communication. The cities, by
means of canals, communicate with the sea; canals run from
town to town, and from them to villages, which are themselves
bound together by these watery ways, and are connected even to
the houses scattered over the country; smaller canals surround
the fields and orchards, pastures and kitchen-gardens, serving at
once as boundary wall, hedge, and road-way; every house is a
little port.
Ships, boats, rafts, move about in all directions, as
in other places carts and carriages. The canals are the arteries
of Holland, and the water her life-blood. But even setting aside
the canals, the draining of the lakes, and the defensive works, on
every side are seen the traces of marvelous undertakings. The
soil, which in other countries is a gift of nature, is in Holland a
work of men's hands. Holland draws the greater part of her
wealth from commerce; but before commerce comes the cultiva-
tion of the soil; and the soil had to be created.
There were
sand-banks interspersed with layers of peat, broad downs swept


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by the winds, great tracts of barren land apparently condemned
to an eternal sterility. The first elements of manufacture, iron
and coal, were wanting; there was no wood, because the forests
had already been destroyed by tempests when agriculture began;
there was no stone, there were no metals. Nature, says a Dutch
poet, had refused all her gifts to Holland; the Hollanders had to
do everything in spite of nature. They began by fertilizing the
sand. In some places they formed a productive soil with earth
brought from a distance, as a garden is made; they spread the
siliceous dust of the downs over the too watery meadows; they
mixed with the sandy earth the remains of peat taken from the
bottoms; they extracted clay to lend fertility to the surface of
their lands; they labored to break up the downs with the plow:
and thus in a thousand ways, and continually fighting off the
menacing waters, they succeeded in bringing Holland to a state
of cultivation not inferior to that of more favored regions. That
Holland, that sandy, marshy country which the ancients consid-
ered all but uninhabitable, now sends out yearly from her con-
fines agricultural products to the value of a hundred millions of
francs, possesses about one million three hundred thousand head
of cattle, and in proportion to the extent of her territory may be
accounted one of the most populous of European States.
It may be easily understood how the physical peculiarities of
their country must influence the Dutch people ; and their genius
is in perfect harmony with the character of Holland. It is suffi-
cient to contemplate the monuments of their great struggle with
the sea in order to understand that their distinctive characteristics
must be firmness and patience, accompanied by a calm and con-
stant courage.
That glorious battle, and the consciousness of
owing everything to their own strength, must have infused and
fortified in them a high sense of dignity and an indomitable spirit
of liberty and independence. The necessity of a constant struggle,
of a continuous labor, and of perpetual sacrifices in defense of
their existence, forever taking them back to a sense of reality,
must have made them a highly practical and economical people;
good sense should be their most salient quality, economy one of
their chief virtues; they must be excellent in all useful arts,
sparing of diversion, simple even in their greatness; succeeding
in what they undertake by dint of tenacity and a thoughtful and
orderly activity; more wise than heroic; more conservative than
creative; giving no great architects to the edifice of modern


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thought, but the ablest of workmen, a legion of patient and
laborious artisans. And by virtue of these qualities of prudence,
phlegmatic activity, and the spirit of conservatism, they are ever
advancing, though by slow degrees; they acquire gradually, but
never lose what they have gained; holding stubbornly to their
ancient customs; preserving almost intact, and despite the neigh-
borhood of three great nations, their own originality; preserving
it through every form of government, through foreign invasions,
through political and religious wars, and in spite of the immense
concourse of strangers from every country that are always coming
among them; and remaining, in short, of all the northern races,
that one which, though ever advancing in the path of civilization,
has kept its antique stamp most clearly.
It is enough also to remember its form in order to compre-
hend that this country of three millions and a half of inhabitants,
although bound in so compact a political union, although recog-
nizable among all the other northern peoples by certain traits
peculiar to the population of all its provinces, must present a
great variety. And so it is in fact. Between Zealand and Hol-
land proper, between Holland and Friesland, between Friesland
and Gueldres, between Groningen and Brabant, in spite of
vicinity and so many common ties, there is no less difference
than between the more distant provinces of Italy and France;
difference of language, costume, and character; difference of race
and of religion. The communal régime has impressed an indeli-
ble mark upon this people, because in no other country does it
so conform to the nature of things. The country is divided into
various groups of interests organized in the same manner as the
hydraulic system. Whence, association and mutual help against
the common enemy, the sea; but liberty for local institutions
and forces. Monarchy has not extinguished the ancient munici-
pal spirit, and this it is that renders impossible a complete fusion
of the State, in all the great States that have made the attempt.
The great rivers and gulfs are at the same time commercial
roads serving as national bonds between the different provinces,
and barriers which defend old traditions and old customs in each.


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471
THE DUTCH MASTERS
From Holland and Its People )
THE Dutch school of painting has one quality which renders it
particularly attractive to us Italians; it is above all others
the most different from our own, the very antithesis or the
opposite pole of art. The Dutch and Italian schools are the most
original, or, as has been said, the only two to which the title
rigorously belongs; the others being only daughters or younger
sisters, more or less resembling them.
Thus even in painting Holland offers that which is most sought
after in travel and in books of travel: the new.
Dutch painting was born with the liberty and independence of
Holland. As long as the northern and southern provinces of the
Low Countries remained under the Spanish rule and in the Cath-
olic faith, Dutch painters painted like Belgian painters; they stud-
ied in Belgium, Germany, and Italy; Heemskerk imitated Michael
Angelo, Bloemart followed Correggio, and “Il Moro” copied
Titian, not to indicate others; and they were one and all pedantic
imitators, who added to the exaggerations of the Italian style a
certain German coarsenesss, the result of which was a bastard
style of painting, still inferior to the first, childish, stiff in design,
crude in color, and completely wanting in chiaroscuro, but at least
not a servile imitation, and becoming, as it were, a faint prelude
of the true Dutch art that was to be.