The Via Valeria,
commencing
from Tibura,[1889] leads to the country
of the Marsi, and to Corfinium,[1890] the metropolis of the Peligni.
of the Marsi, and to Corfinium,[1890] the metropolis of the Peligni.
Strabo
First they
made the Esino the boundary; afterwards the river Rubicon: the Esino
being between Ancona and Sena, and the Rubicon between Ariminum and
Ravenna, both of them falling into the Adriatic. At the present day,
however, since Italy comprehends the whole country as far as the Alps,
we need take no further notice of these limits. All allow that
Ombrica[1771] extends as far as Ravenna, as the inhabitants are Ombrici.
From Ravenna to Ariminum they say is about 300 stadia. Going from
Ariminum to Rome by the Via Flaminia, the whole journey lies through
Ombrica as far as the city of Ocricli[1772] and the Tiber, a distance of
1350 stadia. This, consequently, is the length [of Ombrica]; its breadth
varies. The cities of considerable magnitude situated on this side the
Apennines along the Via Flaminia, are Ocricli on the Tiber,
Laroloni,[1773] and Narnia,[1774] through which the Nera[1775] flows.
This river discharges itself into the Tiber a little above Ocricli; it
is not navigable for large vessels. After these are Carsuli and
Mevania,[1776] past which latter the Teneas[1777] flows, by which river
the merchandise of the plain is transported in small vessels to the
Tiber. There are also other cities well populated, rather on account of
the route along which they lie, than for their political importance.
Such are Forum Flaminium,[1778] Nuceria[1779] where wooden vases are
manufactured, and Forum Sempronium. [1780] Going from Ocricli to
Ariminum, on the right of the [CAS. 228] way are Interamna,[1781]
Spoletium,[1782] Asisium,[1783] and Camerta, situated in the mountains
which bound Picenum. On the other side[1784] are Ameria,[1785]
Tuder,[1786] a well-fortified city, Hispellum,[1787] and Iguvium,[1788]
near to the passes of the mountain. The whole of this country is
fertile, but rather too mountainous, and producing more rye[1789] than
wheat for the food of the inhabitants. The next district, Sabina, is
mountainous, and borders on Tyrrhenia in like manner. The parts of
Latium which border on these districts and the Apennines are very
rugged. These two nations[1790] commence from the Tiber and Tyrrhenia,
and extend as far as the Apennines which advance obliquely towards the
Adriatic: Ombrica extends, as we have said, beyond as far as the sea. We
have now sufficiently described the Ombrici.
CHAPTER III.
1. The Sabini occupy a narrow country, its length from the Tiber and the
small city of Nomentum[1791] to the Vestini being 1000 stadia. They have
but few cities, and these have suffered severely in their continual wars
[with the Romans]. Such are Amiternum[1792] and Reate,[1793] which is
near to the village of Interocrea[1794] and the cold waters at Cotyliæ,
which are taken by patients, both as drink and as baths, for the cure of
various maladies. The rocks of Foruli,[1795] likewise, belong to the
Sabini; fitted rather for rebellion than peaceable habitation. Cures is
now a small village, although formerly a famous city: whence came Titus
Tatius and Numa Pompilius, kings of Rome. From this place is derived the
name of Quirites, which the orators give to the Romans when they address
the people. Trebula,[1796] Eretum,[1797] and other similar places, must
be looked upon rather as villages than cities. The whole land [of
Sabina] is singularly fertile in olive-trees and vines, it produces also
many acorns, and besides has excellent cattle: the mules bred at
Reate[1798] are much celebrated. In one word the whole of Italy is rich
both in cattle and vegetable productions; although certain articles may
be finer in some districts than in others. The race of the Sabini is
extremely ancient, they are Autochthones. The Picentini and Samnitæ
descend from them, as do the Leucani from these latter, and the Bruttii
again from these. A proof of their antiquity may be found in the bravery
and valour which they have maintained till the present time.
Fabius,[1799] the historian, says that the Romans first knew what wealth
was when they became masters of this nation. The Via Salaria, which
however does not extend far, runs through their country: the Via
Nomentana, which commences likewise at the Porta Collina, falls in with
the Via Salaria near to Eretum, a village of Sabina lying above the
Tiber.
2. Beyond Sabina is Latium, wherein the city of Rome is situated. It
comprises many places which formed no part of ancient Latium. For the
Æqui, the Volsci, the Hernici, the aborigines around Rome, the Rutuli
who possessed ancient Ardea, and many other nations, some larger, some
smaller, formed so many separate states around Rome, when that city was
first built. Some of these nations, who dwelt in villages, were governed
by their own laws, and subjected to no common tribe. They say[1800] that
Æneas, with his father Anchises and his child Ascanius, arrived at
Laurentum,[1801] near to Ostia and the bank of the Tiber, where he built
a city about 24 stadia above the sea. That Latinus, the king of the
aborigines who then dwelt on the site where Rome now stands, employed
his forces to aid Æneas against the neighbouring Rutuli who inhabited
Ardea, (now from Ardea to Rome is a distance of 160 stadia,) and having
gained a victory, he built near to the spot a city, to which he gave the
name of his daughter Lavinia. However, in a second battle, commenced by
the Rutuli, Latinus fell, and Æneas, being conqueror, [CAS. 229]
succeeded this prince on the throne, and conferred on his subjects the
name of Latini. After the death both of himself and his father, Ascanius
founded Alba,[1802] on Mount Albanus,[1803] situated about the same
distance from Rome as Ardea. Here Romans and Latini conjointly offer
sacrifice to Jupiter. The magistracy all assemble, and during the period
of the solemnity the government of the city is intrusted to some
distinguished youth. The facts related of Amulius and his brother
Numitor, some of which are fictitious, while others approach nearer the
truth, occurred four hundred years later. These two brothers, who were
descended from Ascanius, succeeded conjointly to the government of Alba,
which extended as far as the Tiber. However, Amulius the younger, having
expelled the elder, governed [alone]. Numitor had a son and a daughter;
the former Amulius treacherously murdered in the chase; the latter, that
she might remain childless, he made a priestess of Vesta, thus imposing
virginity upon her. This [daughter] they name Rhea Silvia. Afterwards he
discovered that she was pregnant, and when she had given birth to twins,
he, out of respect to his brother, placed her in confinement, instead of
putting her to death, and exposed the boys by the Tiber according to a
national usage. According to the mythology, Mars was the father of these
children, and when they were exposed they were discovered and suckled by
a she-wolf. Faustulus, one of the swine-herds of the place, took and
reared them up, and named one Romulus, the other Remus. (We must
understand that Faustulus, who took them up and nourished them, was an
influential man, and a subject of Amulius. ) Having arrived at man’s
estate, they waged war upon Amulius and his sons; and having slain them,
restored the government to Numitor. They then returned home and founded
Rome, in a locality selected rather through necessity than choice, as
the site was neither fortified by nature, nor sufficiently large for a
city of importance. In addition to this, the neighbourhood supplied no
inhabitants; for those who dwelt around, even though touching the very
walls of the newly founded city, kept to themselves, and would have
nothing at all to do with the Albani. Collatia, Antemnæ, Fidenæ,
Labicum,[1804] and similar places are here alluded to which then were
small cities, but are now villages possessed by private individuals;
they are distant from Rome 30 or 40[1805] stadia, or rather more.
Between the fifth and sixth mile-stone which marks the distance from
Rome there is a place named Festi; this they say was at that time the
limit of the Roman territory, and at the present day, both here and in
numerous other places which they consider to have been boundaries, the
priests offer the sacrifice denominated Ambarvia. [1806] They say that,
at the time of the foundation [CAS. 230] [of the city], a dispute arose
in which Remus lost his life. The city being built, Romulus assembled
men from every quarter, and instituted for an asylum a grove between the
citadel and the Capitol, to which whoever fled from the neighbouring
states, he proclaimed as Roman citizens. Not having wives for these men,
he appointed a horse-race in honour of Neptune, which is celebrated to
this day. Numbers [of spectators] having assembled, particularly of the
Sabini, he commanded that each of those who were in want of a wife,
should carry off one of the assembled maidens. Titus Tatius, king of the
Quirites, took up arms to avenge the insult, but made peace with Romulus
on condition that their kingdoms should be united, and that they should
divide the sovereignty between them. Tatius, however, was treacherously
assassinated in Lavinium, upon which Romulus, with the consent of the
Quirites, reigned alone. After him Numa Pompilius, formerly a subject of
Tatius, assumed the government, by the general desire of the people.
Such is the most authentic account of the foundation of Rome.
3. However, there also exists another more ancient and mythical account,
to the effect that Rome was an Arcadian colony planted by Evander. He
entertained Hercules when driving the oxen of Geryon, and being informed
by his mother Nicostrata, (who was skilled in the art of prophecy,) that
when Hercules should have completed his labours it was fore-ordained
that he should be enrolled amongst the gods; he informed him of the
matter, consecrated to him a grove, and offered sacrifice to him after
the Grecian mode; a sacrifice which is continued in honour of Hercules
to this day. The Roman historian Cœlius is of opinion that this is a
proof that Rome is a Grecian colony, the sacrifice to Hercules after the
Grecian mode having been brought over from their fatherland. The Romans
also worship the mother of Evander under the name of Carmentis,[1807]
considering her one of the nymphs.
4. Thus then the Latini originally were few in number, and for the most
part under no subjection to the Romans; but afterwards, being struck by
the valour of Romulus and the kings who succeeded him, they all
submitted. But the Æqui,[1808] the Volsci, the Hernici; and before them
the Rutuli, the aborigines, the Rhæci, together with certain of the
[CAS. 231] Argyrusci and the Preferni,[1809] being subdued, the whole of
their different countries were included under the name of Latium. To the
Volsci pertained the Pomentine plain, bordering on the territory of the
Latini, and the city of Apiola, levelled to the ground[1810] by
Tarquinius Priscus. The Æqui principally were neighbours to the
Quirites, whose cities Tarquinius Priscus likewise devastated. His son
took Suessa,[1811] the metropolis of the Volsci. The Hernici dwelt near
to Lanuvium, Alba, and to Rome itself; neither were Aricia,[1812] the
Tellenæ, and Antium[1813] at any great distance. The Albani were at
first friendly with the Romans, speaking as they did the same language,
and being likewise of the Latin stock; and though they were under
separate governments, this did not prevent them from marrying together,
nor from performing in common the sacred ceremonies at Alba, and other
civil rites. In after-time, however, war having sprung up, Alba was
entirely destroyed with the exception of the temple, and the Albani were
declared citizens of Rome. Of the other surrounding cities, those which
resisted were either destroyed or enfeebled, while others, which were
friendly to the Romans, flourished. At the present day the coast from
Ostia to the city of Sinuessa[1814] is denominated the Latin coast;
formerly the country thus designated extended only so far as
Circæum. [1815] The interior also [of Latium] was formerly small; but it
afterwards extended to Campania, the Samnitæ, the Peligni,[1816] and
other nations dwelling around the Apennines.
5. The whole [of Latium] is fertile, and abounding in every production,
with the exception of a few districts along the coast, which are marshy
and unhealthy; such as the country of Ardea, the lands between Antium
and Lanuvium as far as Pometia, and certain of the districts of
Setia,[1817] Terracina, and Circæum. Some parts may also be too
mountainous and rocky; but even these are not absolutely idle and
useless, since they furnish abundant pasturage, wood, and the peculiar
productions of the marsh and rock; while Cæcubum, which is entirely
marshy, nourishes a vine, the dendritis,[1818] which produces the most
excellent wine. Of the maritime cities of Latium, one is Ostia. This
city has no port, owing to the accumulation of the alluvial deposit
brought down by the Tiber, which is swelled by numerous rivers; vessels
therefore bring to anchor further out, but not without danger; however,
gain overcomes every thing, for there is an abundance of lighters in
readiness to freight and unfreight the larger ships, before they
approach the mouth of the river, and thus enable them to perform their
voyage speedily. Being lightened of a part of their cargo, they enter
the river and sail up to Rome, a distance of about 190 stadia. Such is
the city of Ostia, founded by Ancus Martius. Next in order comes Antium,
which city is likewise destitute of any port; it is situated on rocks,
and about 260 stadia distant from Ostia. At the present day it is
devoted to the leisure and recreation of statesmen from their political
duties, whenever they can find time, and is in consequence covered with
sumptuous mansions suited to such rusticating. The inhabitants of Antium
had formerly a marine, and even after they were under subjection to the
Romans, took part with the Tyrrhenian pirates. Of this, first, Alexander
sent to complain; after him Demetrius, having taken many of these
pirates, sent them to the Romans, saying that he would surrender them
their persons on account of their affinity to the Greeks, and remarking
at the same time, that it seemed to him a great impropriety, that those
who held sway over the whole of Italy should send out pirates, and that
they who had consecrated in their forum a temple to the honour of the
Dioscuri,[1819] whom all denominated the Saviours, should likewise send
to commit acts of piracy on Greece, which was the fatherland of those
divinities. Hereupon the Romans put a stop to this occupation [piracy].
Between these two cities is Lavinium, which contains a temple of Venus
common to all the Latini, the care of which is intrusted to the priests
of [CAS. 232] Ardea. After this is Laurentum;[1820] and above these lies
Ardea, a colony of the Rutuli, 70 stadia from the sea; near to it is
another temple of Venus, where all the Latini hold a public festival.
These regions have been ravaged by the Samnitæ, and only the traces of
the cities left; but even these are reverenced on account of the arrival
of Æneas here, and of the religious rites which they say were bequeathed
from those times.
6. At 290 stadia from Antium is Mount Circæum, insulated by the sea and
marshes. They say that it contains numerous roots, but this perhaps is
only to harmonize with the myth relating to Circe. It has a small city,
together with a temple to Circe and an altar to Minerva; they likewise
say that a cup is shown which belonged to Ulysses. Between [Antium and
Circæum] is the river Stura,[1821] which has a station for ships: the
rest of the coast is exposed to the south-west wind,[1822] with the
exception of this small harbour of Circæum. [1823] Above this, in the
interior, is the Pomentine plain: the region next to this was formerly
inhabited by the Ausonians, who likewise possessed Campania: next after
these the Osci, who also held part of Campania; now, however, as we have
remarked, the whole, as far as Sinuessa, belongs to the Latini. A
peculiar fate has attended the Osci and Ausonians; for although the Osci
have ceased to exist as a distinct tribe, their dialect is extant among
the Romans, dramatic and burlesque pieces composed in it being still
represented at certain games which were instituted in ancient times. And
as for the Ausonians, although they never have dwelt by the sea of
Sicily,[1824] it is named the Ausonian Sea. At 100 stadia from Circæum
is Tarracina, formerly named Trachina,[1825] on account of its
ruggedness; before it is a great marsh, formed by two rivers, the larger
of which is called the Aufidus. [1826] This is the first place where the
Via Appia approaches the sea. This road is paved from Rome to
Brundusium,[1827] and has great traffic. Of the maritime cities, these
alone are situated on it; Tarracina, beyond it Formiæ,[1828]
Minturnæ,[1829] Sinuessa,[1830] and towards its extremity Tarentum and
Brundusium. Near to Tarracina, advancing in the direction of Rome, a
canal runs by the side of the Via Appia, which is supplied at intervals
by water from the marshes and rivers. Travellers generally sail up it by
night, embarking in the evening, and landing in the morning to travel
the rest of their journey by the way: however, during the day the
passage boat is towed by mules. [1831] Beyond is Formiæ, founded by the
Lacedæmonians, and formerly called Hormiæ, on account of its excellent
port. Between these [two cities],[1832] is a gulf which they have named
Caiata,[1833] in fact all gulfs are called by the Lacedæmonians Caietæ:
some, however, say that the gulf received this appellation from
[Caieta], the nurse of Æneas. From Tarracina to the promontory of Caiata
is a length of 100 stadia. Here[1834] are opened vast caverns, which
contain large and sumptuous mansions. From hence to Formiæ is a distance
of 40 stadia. Between this city and Sinuessa, at a distance of about 80
stadia from each, is Minturnæ. The river Liris,[1835] formerly named the
Clanis, flows through it. It descends from the Apennines, passes through
the country of the Vescini,[1836] and by the village of Fregellæ,
(formerly a famous city,) and so into a sacred grove situated below the
city, and held in great veneration by the people of Minturnæ. There are
two islands, named Pandataria and Pontia,[1837] lying in the high sea,
and clearly discernible from the caverns. Although small, they are well
inhabited, are not at any great distance from each other, and at 250
stadia from the mainland. Cæcubum is situated on the gulf of Caiata, and
next to it Fundi, a city on the Via Appia. All these places produce
excellent wines; but those of Cæcubum, Fundi, and Setia[1838] are most
in repute, and so are the Falernian, Alban,[1839] and Statanian wines.
Sinuessa is situated in a gulf from which it takes its name, sinus
signifying [CAS. 234] [in Latin] a gulf. Near to it are some fine
hot-baths, good for the cure of various maladies. Such are the maritime
cities of Latium.
7. In the interior, the first city above Ostia is Rome; it is the only
city built on the Tiber. It has been remarked above, that its position
was fixed, not by choice, but necessity; to this must be added, that
those who afterwards enlarged it, were not at liberty to select a better
site, being prevented by what was already built. The first [kings]
fortified the Capitol, the Palatium, and the Collis Quirinalis, which
was so easy of access, that when Titus Tatius came to avenge the rape of
the [Sabine] virgins, he took it on the first assault. Ancus Marcius,
who added Mount Cælius and the Aventine Mount with the intermediate
plain, separated as these places were both from each other and from what
had been formerly fortified, was compelled to do this of necessity;
since he did not consider it proper to leave outside his walls, heights
so well protected by nature, to whomsoever might have a mind to fortify
themselves upon them, while at the same time he was not capable of
enclosing the whole as far as Mount Quirinus. Servius perceived this
defect, and added the Esquiline and Viminal hills. As these were both of
easy access from without, a deep trench was dug outside them and the
earth thrown up on the inside, thus forming a terrace of 6 stadia in
length along the inner side of the trench. This terrace he surmounted
with a wall flanked with towers, and extending from the Colline[1840] to
the Esquiline gate. Midway along the terrace is a third gate, named
after the Viminal hill. Such is the Roman rampart, which seems to stand
in need of other ramparts itself. But it seems to me that the first
[founders] were of opinion, both in regard to themselves and their
successors, that Romans had to depend not on fortifications, but on arms
and their individual valour, both for safety and for wealth, and that
walls were not a defence to men, but men were a defence to walls. At the
period of its commencement, when the large and fertile districts
surrounding the city belonged to others, and while it lay easily open to
assault, there was nothing in its position which could be looked upon as
favourable; but when by valour and labour these districts became its
own, there succeeded a tide of prosperity surpassing the advantages of
every other place. Thus, notwithstanding the prodigious increase of the
city, there has been plenty of food, and also of wood and stone for
ceaseless building, rendered necessary by the falling down of houses,
and on account of conflagrations, and of the sales, which seem never to
cease. These sales are a kind of voluntary falling down of houses, each
owner knocking down and rebuilding one part or another according to his
individual taste. For these purposes the numerous quarries, the forests,
and the rivers which convey the materials, offer wonderful facilities.
Of these rivers, the first is the Teverone,[1841] which flows from Alba,
a city of the Latins near to the country of the Marsi, and from thence
through the plain below this [city], till it unites with the Tiber.
After this come the Nera[1842] and the Timia,[1843] which passing
through Ombrica fall into the Tiber, and the Chiana,[1844] which flows
through Tyrrhenia and the territory of Clusium. [1845] Augustus Cæsar
endeavoured to avert from the city damages of the kind alluded to, and
instituted a company of freedmen, who should be ready to lend their
assistance in cases of conflagration;[1846] whilst, as a preventive
against the falling of houses, he decreed that all new buildings should
not be carried so high as formerly, and that those erected along the
public ways should not exceed seventy feet in height. [1847] But these
improvements must have ceased only for the facilities afforded by the
quarries, the forests, and the ease of transport.
8. These advantages accrued to the city from the nature of the country;
but the foresight of the Romans added others [CAS. 235] besides. The
Grecian cities are thought to have flourished mainly on account of the
felicitous choice made by their founders, in regard to the beauty and
strength of their sites, their proximity to some port, and the fineness
of the country. But the Roman prudence was more particularly employed on
matters which had received but little attention from the Greeks, such as
paving their roads, constructing aqueducts, and sewers, to convey the
sewage of the city into the Tiber. In fact, they have paved the roads,
cut through hills, and filled up valleys, so that the merchandise may be
conveyed by carriage from the ports. The sewers, arched over with hewn
stones, are large enough in some parts for waggons loaded with hay to
pass through; while so plentiful is the supply of water from the
aqueducts, that rivers may be said to flow through the city and the
sewers, and almost every house is furnished with water-pipes and copious
fountains. To effect which Marcus Agrippa directed his special
attention; he likewise bestowed upon the city numerous ornaments. We may
remark, that the ancients, occupied with greater and more necessary
concerns, paid but little attention to the beautifying of Rome. But
their successors, and especially those of our own day, without
neglecting these things, have at the same time embellished the city with
numerous and splendid objects. Pompey, divus Cæsar, and Augustus, with
his children, friends, wife, and sister, have surpassed all others in
their zeal and munificence in these decorations. The greater number of
these may be seen in the Campus Martius, which to the beauties of nature
adds those of art. The size of the plain is marvellous, permitting
chariot-races and other feats of horsemanship without impediment, and
multitudes to exercise themselves at ball,[1848] in the circus[1849] and
the palæstra. The structures which surround it, the turf covered with
herbage all the year round, the summits of the hills beyond the Tiber,
extending from its banks with panoramic effect, present a spectacle
which the eye abandons with regret. Near to this plain is another
surrounded with columns, sacred groves, three theatres, an amphitheatre,
and superb temples in close contiguity to each other; and so
magnificent, that it would seem idle to describe the rest of the city
after it. For this cause the Romans, esteeming it as the most sacred
place, have there erected funeral monuments to the most illustrious
persons of either sex. The most remarkable of these is that designated
as the Mausoleum,[1850] which consists of a mound of earth raised upon a
high foundation of white marble, situated near the river, and covered to
the top with ever-green shrubs. Upon the summit is a bronze statue of
Augustus Cæsar, and beneath the mound are the ashes[1851] of himself,
his relatives, and friends. Behind is a large grove containing charming
promenades. In the centre of the plain,[1852] is the spot where this
prince was reduced to ashes; it is surrounded with a double enclosure,
one of marble, the other of iron, and planted within with poplars. If
from hence you proceed to visit the ancient forum, which is equally
filled with basilicas, porticos, and temples, you will there behold the
Capitol, the Palatium, with the noble works which adorn them, and the
piazza of Livia, each successive place causing you speedily to forget
what you have before seen. Such is Rome.
9. Of the other cities of Latium, some are distinguished by a variety of
remarkable objects, others by the celebrated roads which intersect
Latium, being situated either upon, or near to, or between these roads,
the most celebrated of which are the Via Appia, the Via Latina, and the
Via Valeria. The former of these bounds the maritime portion of Latium,
as far as Sinuessa, the latter extends along Sabina as far as the Marsi,
whilst between these is the Via Latina, which falls in with the Via
Appia near to Casilinum,[1853] a city distant from Capua[1854] 19
stadia. The Via Latina commences from the Via Appia, branching from it
towards the left, near to Rome. It passes over the Tusculan mountain,
between the city of Tusculum[1855] and Mount Albanus; it then descends
to the little city of Algidum,[1856] and the Pictæ tavern; afterwards
the Via [CAS. 237] Lavicana joins it, which commences, like the Via
Prænestina, from the Esquiline gate. This road, as well as the Esquiline
plain, the Via Lavicana leaves on the left; it then proceeds a distance
of 120 stadia, or more, when it approaches Lavicum, an ancient city now
in ruins, situated on an eminence; this and Tusculum it leaves on the
right, and terminates near to Pictæ in the Via Latina. This place is 210
stadia distant from Rome. Proceeding thence along the Via Latina there
are noble residences, and the cities Ferentinum,[1857] Frusino,[1858] by
which the river Cosa flows, Fabrateria,[1859] by which flows the river
Sacco,[1860] Aquinum,[1861] a large city, by which flows the great river
Melfa,[1862] Interamnium, situated at the confluence of two rivers, the
Garigliano and another, Casinum, also an important city, and the last of
those belonging to Latium. For Teanum, called Sidicinum,[1863] which
lies next in order, shows by its name that it belongs to the nation of
the Sidicini. These people are Osci, a surviving nation of the Campani,
so that this city, which is the largest of those situated upon the Via
Latina, may be said to be Campanian; as well as that of Cales,[1864]
another considerable city which lies beyond, and is contiguous to
Casilinum. [1865]
10. As to the places situated on either side of the Via Latina, those on
the right are between it and the Via Appia; of their number are
Setia[1866] and Signia,[1867] which produce wine, that of Setia being
one of the dearest wines, and that called Signium the best for
strengthening the stomach. Before this[1868] are Privernum,[1869]
Cora,[1870] Suessa,[1871] ‘Trapontium,’[1872] Velitræ,[1873]
Aletrium,[1874] and also Fregellæ,[1875] by which the Garigliano flows,
which discharges itself [into the sea] near Minturnæ. Fregellæ, though
now a village, was formerly a considerable city, and the chief of the
surrounding places we have just named. Even now their inhabitants throng
to it on market days, and for the performance of certain religious
solemnities. Its defection from the Romans was the cause of its
ruin. [1876] Both these, and also the cities lying on the Via Latina and
beyond, situated in the territories of the Hernici, Æqui, and Volsci,
were for the most part founded by the Romans. To the left of the Via
Latina, the cities between it and the Via Valeria, are, Gabii,[1877]
standing in the Via Prænestina, it possesses a stone-quarry, in greater
demand at Rome than any other, and is at an equal distance of about 100
stadia between Rome and Præneste. [1878] Then Præneste, of which we shall
have occasion presently to speak. Then, in the mountains above Præneste,
Capitulum, a small city of the Hernici, and Anagnia,[1879] a
considerable city; Cereate,[1880] and Sora, by which the river
Garigliano[1881] flows as it passes on to Fregellæ, and Minturnæ. After
these there are other places, and finally, Venafrum,[1882] from whence
comes the finest oil. This city is situated on a high hill by the foot
of which flows the Volturno,[1883] which passing by Casilinum,[1884]
discharges itself [into the sea] at a city[1885] bearing the same name
as itself. Æsernia[1886] and Alliphæ,[1887] cities of the Samnites, the
former was destroyed in the Marsian war,[1888] the other still remains.
11.
The Via Valeria, commencing from Tibura,[1889] leads to the country
of the Marsi, and to Corfinium,[1890] the metropolis of the Peligni.
Upon it are situated the Latin cities of Valeria,[1891] Carseoli,[1892]
Alba,[1893] and near to it the city of Cuculum. [1894] Within sight of
Rome are Tibura, Præneste, and Tusculum. [1895] At Tibura is a temple of
Hercules, and a cataract formed by the fall of the Teverone,[1896]
(which is here navigable,) from a great height into a deep and wooded
ravine close to the city. From thence the river flows through a highly
fertile plain along by [CAS. 238] the Tiburtine stone-quarries, those of
the Gabii, and those denominated the red-stone quarries. As both the
carriage from the quarries and the conveyance by river are easy, most of
the Roman edifices are built of materials from hence. In this plain flow
the cold waters called Albula, they spring from numerous fountains, and
are taken both as a beverage and as baths,[1897] for the cure of various
diseases. Of the same kind are the Labanæ,[1898] not far from these, on
the Via Nomentana, and near to Eretum. [1899] At Præneste is the
celebrated temple and oracle of Fortune. Both this and the preceding
city are situated on the same chain of mountains, and are distant from
each other 100 stadia. Præneste is 200 stadia from Rome, Tibura less
than that distance. They are said to be both of Grecian foundation,
Præneste being formerly named Polystephanus. They are both fortified,
but Præneste is the stronger place of the two, having for its citadel a
lofty mountain, which overhangs the town, and is divided at the back
from the adjoining mountain range by a neck of land. This mountain is
two stadia higher than the neck in direct altitude. In addition to these
[natural] defences, the city is furnished on all sides with
subterraneous passages, which extend to the plains, and some of which
serve to convey water, while others form secret ways; it was in one of
these that Marius[1900] perished, when he was besieged. Other cities are
in most instances benefited by a strong position, but to the people of
Præneste it has proved a bane, owing to the civil wars of the Romans.
For hither the revolutionary movers take refuge, and when at last they
surrender, in addition to the injury sustained by the city during the
war, the country is confiscated, and the guilt thus imputed to the
guiltless. The river Verestis[1901] flows through this region. The said
cities are to the east of Rome.
12. But within-side the chain of mountains, [where these cities are
situated,] there is another ridge, leaving a valley between it and Mount
Algidus; it is lofty, and extends as far as Mount Albanus. [1902] It is
on this ridge that Tusculum is situated, a city which is not wanting in
adornment, being entirely surrounded by ornamental plantations and
edifices, particularly that part of it which looks towards Rome. For on
this side Tusculum presents a fertile hill, well irrigated, and with
numerous gentle slopes embellished with majestic palaces. Contiguous are
the undulating slopes of Mount Albanus, which are equally fertile and
ornamented. Beyond are plains which extend some of them to Rome and its
environs, others to the sea; these latter are unhealthy, but the others
are salubrious and well cultivated. Next after Albanum is the city
Aricia, on the Appian Way. It is 160 stadia from Rome. This place is
situated in a hollow, and has a strong citadel. [1903] Beyond it on one
side of the way is Lanuvium,[1904] a Roman city on the right of the Via
Appia, and from which both the sea and Antium may be viewed. On the
other side is the Artemisium,[1905] which is called Nemus,[1906] on the
left side of the way, leading from Aricia to the temple. [1907] They say
that it is consecrated to Diana Taurica, and certainly the rites
performed in this temple are something barbarous and Scythic. They
appoint as priest a fugitive who has murdered the preceding priest with
his own hand. Apprehensive of an attack upon himself, the priest is
always armed with a sword, ready for resistance. The temple is in a
grove, and before it is a [CAS. 240] lake of considerable size. The
temple and water are surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices, so that
they seem to be situated in a deep and hollow ravine. The springs by
which the lake is filled are visible. One of these is denominated
Egeria, after the name of a certain divinity; however, their course on
leaving the lake is subterraneous, but they may be observed at some
distance, when they rise to the surface of the ground.
13. Near to these localities is Mount Albanus,[1908] which is much
higher than either the Artemisium or the heights surrounding it,
although these are sufficiently lofty and precipitous. It has likewise a
lake,[1909] much larger than that of the Artemisium. Further forward
than these are the cities on the Via Latina, we have already mentioned.
Alba[1910] is the most inland of all the Latin cities; it borders on the
Marsi, and is situated on a high hill near to Lake Fucinus. This [lake]
is vast as a sea, and is of great service to the Marsi and all the
surrounding nations. They say, that at times its waters rise to the
height of the mountains which surround it, and at others subside so
much, that the places which had been covered with water reappear and may
be cultivated; however, the subsidings of the waters occur irregularly
and without previous warning, and are followed by their rising again;
the springs fail altogether and gush out again after a time; as they say
is the case with the Amenanus,[1911] which flows through Catana,[1912]
for after remaining dry for a number of years, it again flows. It is
reported that the Marcian[1913] water, which is drunk at Rome in
preference to any other, has its source in [Lake] Fucinus. As Alba is
situated in the depths of the country, and is besides a strong position,
the Romans have often employed it as a place of security, for lodging
important prisoners. [1914]
CHAPTER IV.
1. After having commenced with the nations about the Alps, and the
Apennine mountains which are near to these, we proceeded from thence and
passed through that portion of the hither country lying between the
Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennine mountains, which incline towards the
Adriatic, as far as the Samnites and the Campani. We will now return
again, and describe the mountaineers, and those who dwell at the foot of
the mountains; whether on the coast of the Adriatic, or in the interior.
Thus, we must recommence from the boundaries of Keltica. [1915]
2. After the cities of the Ombrici, which are comprised between
Ariminum[1916] and Ancona, comes Picenum. The Picentini proceeded
originally from the land of the Sabini. A woodpecker led the way for
their chieftains, and from this bird they have taken their name, it
being called in their language Picus, and is regarded as sacred to Mars.
They inhabit the plains extending from the mountains to the sea; the
length of their country considerably exceeds its breadth; the soil is
every where good, but better fitted for the cultivation of fruits than
grain. Its breadth, from the mountains to the sea varies in different
parts. But its length; from the river Æsis[1917] to Castrum,[1918]
sailing round the coast, is 800 stadia. Of its cities, Ancona is of
Grecian origin, having been founded by the Syracusans who fled from the
tyranny of Dionysius. It is situated upon a cape, which bending round
towards the north forms a harbour; and it abounds in wine and wheat.
Near to it is the city of Auxumon,[1919] at a little distance from the
sea. After it are Septempeda,[1920] Pneuentia,[1921] Potentia,[1922] and
Firmum Picenum,[1923] with its port of Castellum. [1924] Beyond, is the
temple of Cupra,[1925] built and dedicated by the Tyrrheni to Juno, who
is named by them Cupra; and after it the river Tronto,[1926] [CAS. 241]
with a city of the same name. [1927] Beyond this is Castrum Novum,[1928]
and the river Piomba,[1929] flowing from the city of Adria,[1930] and
having [at its mouth] the naval station of Adria, which bears the same
name as itself. In the interior is [the city of Adria] itself and
Asculum Picenum,[1931] a very strong position, upon which is built a
wall: the mountains which surround it are not accessible to
armies. [1932] Above Picenum are the Vestini,[1933] the Marsi,[1934] the
Peligni,[1935] the Marucini,[1936] and the Frentani,[1937] a Samnitic
nation possessing the hill-country, and extending almost to the sea. All
these nations are small, but extremely brave, and have frequently given
the Romans proofs of their valour, first as enemies, afterwards as
allies; and finally, having demanded the liberty and rights of citizens,
and being denied, they revolted and kindled the Marsian war. [1938] They
decreed that Corfinium,[1939] the metropolis of the Peligni, should be
the capital for all the Italians instead of Rome: made it their place
d’armes, and new-named it Italica. Then, having convoked deputies from
all the people friendly to their design, they created consuls[1940] and
prætors, and maintained the war for two[1941] years, until they had
obtained the rights for which they struggled. The war was named the
Marsian[1942] war, because that nation commenced the insurrection, and
particularly on account of Pompædius. [1943] These nations live generally
in villages, nevertheless they are possessed of certain cities, some of
which are at some little distance from the sea, as Corfinium,
Sulmo,[1944] Maruvium,[1945] and Teatea[1946] the metropolis of the
Marrucini. Others are on the coast, as Aternum[1947] on the Picentine
boundary, so named from the river [Aternus], which separates the Vestini
from the Marrucini. This river flows from the territory of Amiternum and
through the Vestini, leaving on its right the Marrucini, who lie above
the Peligni, [at the place where the river] is crossed by a bridge. The
city, which bears the same name, (viz. Aternum,) belongs to the Vestini,
but its port is used in common both by the Peligni and the Marrucini.
The bridge I have mentioned is about 24 stadia from Corfinium. After
Aternum is Orton,[1948] a naval arsenal of the Frentani, and Buca,[1949]
which belongs to the same people, and is conterminous with the Apulian
Teanum. [1950] †Ortonium[1951] is situated in the territory of the
Frentani. It is rocky, and inhabited by banditti, who construct their
dwellings of the wrecks of ships, and lead [CAS. 242] otherwise a savage
life. † Between Orton and Aternum is the river Sagrus,[1952] which
separates the Frentani from the Peligni. From Picenum to the Apuli,
named by the Greeks the Daunii,[1953] sailing round the coast, is
a distance of about 490[1954] stadia.
3. Next in order after Latium is Campania, which extends along the
[Tyrrhenian] Sea; above it is Samnium, in the interior, extending as far
as the Frentani and Daunii; and beyond are the Daunii, and the other
nations as far as the Strait of Sicily. We shall in the first place
speak of Campania. From Sinuessa[1955] to Misenum[1956] the coast forms
a vast gulf; beyond this is another gulf still larger, which they name
the Crater. [1957] It is enclosed by the two promontories of Misenum and
the Athenæum. [1958] It is along the shores of these [two gulfs] that the
whole of Campania is situated. This plain is fertile above all others,
and entirely surrounded by fruitful hills and the mountains of the
Samnites and Osci. Antiochus says that this country was formerly
inhabited by the Opici, and that these were called Ausones. Polybius
appears to consider these as two people, for he says that the Opici and
Ausones inhabit the country around the Crater. [1959] Others, however,
state that it was originally inhabited by Opici and Ausones, but was
afterwards seized on by a nation of the Osci, who were driven out by the
Cumæi, and these again by the Tyrrheni. Thus the possession of the plain
was much disputed on account of its great fertility. [They add that the
Tyrrheni] built there twelve cities, and named the metropolis Capua. But
luxury having made them effeminate, in the same way that they had
formerly been driven from the banks of the Po, they were now forced to
abandon this country to the Samnites; who in their turn fell before the
Romans. One proof of the fertility of this country is, that it produces
the finest corn. I allude to the grain from which a groat is made
superior to all kinds of rice, and to almost all other farinacious food.
They say that some of the plains are cropped all the year round; twice
with rye, the third time with panic, and occasionally a fourth time
with vegetables. It is likewise from hence that the Romans procure their
finest wines, the Falernian, the Statanian, and the Calenian. That of
Surrentum[1960] is now esteemed equal to these, it having been lately
discovered that it can be kept to ripen. In addition to this, the whole
country round Venafrum, bordering on the plains, is rich in olives.
4. The maritime cities [of Campania], after Sinuessa, are
Liternum,[1961] where is the sepulchral monument of the first of the two
Scipios, surnamed Africanus; it was here that he passed the last days of
his life, having abandoned public affairs in disgust at the intrigues of
certain opponents. A river of the same name[1962] flows by this city. In
like manner the Vulturnus bears the same name as the city[1963] founded
on it, which comes next in order: this river flows through
Venafrum[1964] and the midst of Campania. After these [cities] comes
Cumæ,[1965] the most ancient settlement[1966] of the Chalcidenses and
Cumæans, for it is the oldest of all [the Greek cities] in Sicily or
Italy. The leaders of the expedition, Hippocles the Cumæan and
Megasthenes of Chalcis, having mutually agreed that one of the nations
should have the management of the colony, and the other the honour of
conferring upon it its own name. Hence at the present day it is named
Cumæ, while at the same time it is said to have been founded by the
Chalcidenses. At first this city was highly prosperous, as well as the
Phlegræan[1967] plain, which mythology has made the scene of the
adventures of the giants, for no other reason, as it appears, than
because the fertility of the country had given rise to battles for its
possession. Afterwards, however, the Campanians becoming masters[1968]
of the city, inflicted much injustice on the [CAS. 243] inhabitants, and
even violated their wives. Still, however, there remain numerous traces
of the Grecian taste, their temples, and their laws. Some are of opinion
that Cumæ was so called from τὰ κύματα, the waves, the sea-coast near it
being rocky and exposed. These people have excellent fisheries. On the
shores of this gulf there is a scrubby forest, extending over numerous
acres of parched and sandy land. This they call the Gallinarian[1969]
wood. It was there that the admirals of Sextus Pompeius assembled their
gangs of pirates, at the time when he drew Sicily into revolt. [1970]
5. Near to Cumæ is the promontory of Misenum,[1971] and between them is
the Acherusian Lake,[1972] which is a muddy estuary of the sea. Having
doubled Misenum, you come to a harbour at the very foot of the
promontory. After this the shore runs inland, forming a deeply indented
bay, on which are Baïæ and the hot springs, much used, both as a
fashionable watering-place, and for the cure of diseases. Contiguous to
Baïæ is the Lucrine Lake,[1973] and within this the Lake Avernus,[1974]
which converts into a peninsula the land stretching from the maritime
district, situated between it and Cumæ, as far as Cape Misenum, for
there is only an isthmus of a few stadia, across which a subterraneous
road is cut [from the head of the gulf of Avernus] to Cumæ and the sea
[shore] on which it stands. Former writers, mingling fable with history,
have applied to Avernus the expressions of Homer in his Invocation of
Departed Spirits,[1975] and relate that here formerly was an oracle of
the dead,[1976] and that it was to this place that Ulysses came.
However, this gulf of Avernus is deep even near the shore, with an
excellent entrance, and is both as to its size and nature a harbour; but
it is not used, on account of the Lucrine Gulf which lies before it, and
is both large and somewhat shallow. The Avernus is surrounded with steep
hills which encompass the whole of it, with the exception of the
entrance. These hills, now so beautifully cultivated were formerly
covered with wild forests, gigantic and impenetrable, which overshadowed
the gulf, imparting a feeling of superstitious awe. The inhabitants
affirm that birds, flying over the lake, fall into the water,[1977]
being stifled by the vapours rising from it, a phenomenon of all
Plutonian[1978] localities. They believed, in fact, that this place was
a Plutonium, around which the Kimmerians used to dwell, and those who
sailed into the place made sacrifice and propitiatory offerings to the
infernal deities, as they were instructed by the priests who ministered
at the place. There is here a spring of water near to the sea fit for
drinking, from which, however, every one abstained, as they supposed it
to be water from the Styx: [they thought likewise] that the oracle of
the dead was situated some where here; and the hot springs near to the
Acherusian Lake indicated the proximity of Pyriphlegethon. Ephorus,
peopling this place with Kimmerii, tells us that they dwell in
under-ground habitations, named by them Argillæ, and that these
communicate with one another by means of certain subterranean passages;
and that they conduct strangers through them to the oracle, which is
built far below the surface of the earth. They live on the mines
together with the profits accruing from the oracle, and grants made to
them by the king [of the country]. It was a traditional custom for the
servants of the oracle never to behold the sun, and only to quit their
caverns at night. It was on this account that the poet said,
“On them the Sun
Deigns not to look with his beam-darting eye. ”[1979]
At last, however, these men were exterminated by one of the kings, the
oracle having deceived him; but [adds Ephorus] the oracle is still in
existence, though removed to another [CAS. 245] place. Such were the
myths related by our ancestors. But now that the wood surrounding the
Avernus has been cut down by Agrippa, the lands built upon, and a
subterranean passage cut from Avernus to Cumæ, all these appear fables.
Perhaps[1980] Cocceius, who made this subterranean passage,[1981] wished
to follow the practice of the Kimmerians we have already described, or
fancied that it was natural to this place that its roads should be made
under-ground.
6. The Lucrine gulf extends in breadth as far as Baïæ; it is separated
from the sea by a bank eight stadia in length, and the breadth of a
carriage-way; this they say was constructed by Hercules when he drove
away the oxen of Geryon. But as the wave covered its surface in stormy
weather, rendering it difficult to pass on foot, Agrippa has repaired
it. Small vessels can put into it, but it is useless as a harbour. [1982]
It contains abundant oyster-beds. Some take this to be the Acherusian
Lake, while Artemidorus confounds it with Avernus. They say that Baïæ
took its name from Baïus one of the companions of Ulysses, and Misenum
from Misenus. Beyond is the strand and city of Dicæarchia. Formerly it
was nothing but a naval station of the Cumæi. It was built on an
eminence. But at the time of the war with Hannibal, the Romans
established a colony there, and changed its name into Puteoli,[1983] [an
appellation derived] from its wells; or, according to others, from the
stench of its waters, the whole district from hence to Baïæ and Cumæ
being full of sulphur, fire, and hot-springs. Some too are of opinion
that it was on this account [that the country about] Cumæ was named
Phlegra, and that the fables of the giants struck down by thunderbolts
owe their origin to these eruptions of fire and water. This city has
become a place of extensive commerce, having artificially constructed
harbours, which were much facilitated by the facile nature of the sand,
which contains much gypsum, and will cement and consolidate thoroughly.
For mixing this sand with chalk-stones they construct moles in the sea,
thus forming bays along the open coast, in which the largest transport
ships may safely ride. Immediately above the city lies the
Forum-Vulcani,[1984] a plain surrounded with hills which seem to be on
fire, having in many parts mouths emitting smoke, frequently accompanied
by a terrible rumbling noise; the plain itself is full of drifted
sulphur.
7. After Dicæarchia is Neapolis,[1985] [founded[1986] originally] by the
Cumæi, but afterwards being peopled by Chalcidians, and certain
Pithecussæans and Athenians,[1987] it was on this account denominated
Naples. [1988] Here is pointed out the tomb of [CAS. 246] Parthenope, one
of the sirens, and a gymnastic sport is celebrated by command of an
oracle. In course of time the inhabitants, having disagreed amongst
themselves, admitted certain Campanians; thus being forced to regard in
the light of friends those most inimical to them, since their friends
were hostile. This is proved by the names of their demarchi, the earlier
of which are Grecian, but the latter a mixture of Campanian with the
Grecian names. Many traces of Grecian institution are still preserved,
the gymnasia, the ephebeia,[1989] the fratriæ,[1990] and the Grecian
names of people who are Roman citizens. At the present time they
celebrate, every fifth year, public games for music and gymnastic
exercises during many days, which rival the most famous games of Greece.
There is here a subterranean passage, similar to that at Cumæ,[1991]
extending for many stadia along the mountain,[1992] between
Dicæarchia[1993] and Neapolis: it is sufficiently broad to let carriages
pass each other, and light is admitted from the surface of the mountain,
by means of numerous apertures cut through a great depth. [1994] Naples
also has hot springs and baths not at all inferior in quality to those
at Baïæ, but much less frequented, for another city has arisen there,
not less than Dicæarchia, one palace after another having been built.
Naples still preserves the Grecian mode of life, owing to those who
retire hither from Rome for the sake of repose, after a life of labour
from childhood, and to those whose age or weakness demands relaxation.
Besides these, Romans who find attractions in this style of life, and
observe the numbers of persons dwelling there, are attracted by the
place, and make it their abode.
8. Following this is the fortress of Heraclæum,[1995] built upon a
promontory which projects out into the sea, and which, on account of the
prevalence of the south-west wind, is a very healthy spot. The
Osci[1996] originally possessed both this and Pompeia,[1997] which is
next to it, by which the river Sarno[1998] flows; afterwards the
Tyrrheni and Pelasgi,[1999] and then the Samnites[2000] obtained
possession of them, and the last[2001] in their turn were driven from
these regions. Pompeia is the port for Nola,[2002] Nuceria,[2003] and
Acerræ, which bears the same name as the city near to Cremona. It is
built on the river Sarno, by which merchandise is received and exported.
Above these places is Mount Vesuvius, which is covered with very
beautiful fields, excepting its summit, a great part of which is level,
but wholly sterile. It appears ash-coloured to the eye, cavernous
hollows appear formed of blackened stones, looking as if they had been
subjected to the action of fire. From this we may infer that the place
was formerly in a burning state with live craters, which however became
extinguished on the failing of the fuel. Perhaps this [volcano] may have
been the cause of the fertility of the surrounding country, the same as
occurs in Catana, where they say that that portion which has been
covered with ashes thrown up by the fires of Ætna is most excellent for
the vine. The land about Vesuvius contains fat, and a soil which has
been subjected to fire, and is very strong and productive of fruit: when
this fat superabounds, it is apt, like all sulphurous substances, to
take fire, but being dried up by evaporation, extinguished, and
pulverized, it becomes a productive earth. Adjoining [CAS. 247] Pompeia
is Surrentum,[2004] [a city] of the Campanians, from whence the
Athenæum,[2005] called by some the promontory of the Sirenusæ, projects
[into the sea]; upon its summit is the temple of Minerva, founded by
Ulysses. From hence to the island of Capreas the passage is short; after
doubling the promontory you encounter various desert and rocky little
islands, which are called the Sirenusæ. [2006] On the side towards
Surrentum there is shown a temple with the ancient offerings of those
who held this place in veneration. Here is the end of the bay named
Crater,[2007] which is bounded by the two promontories of Misenum[2008]
and the Athenæum, both looking towards the south. The whole is adorned
by the cities we have described, by villas, and plantations, so close
together that to the eye they appear but one city.
9. In front of Misenum lies the island of Prochyta,[2009] which has been
rent from the Pithecussæ. [2010] Pithecussæ was peopled by a colony of
Eretrians and Chalcidians, which was very prosperous on account of the
fertility of the soil and the productive gold-mines; however, they
abandoned the island on account of civil dissensions, and were
ultimately driven out by earthquakes, and eruptions of fire, sea, and
hot waters. It was on account of these eruptions, to which the island is
subject, that the colonists sent by Hiero,[2011] the king of Syracuse,
abandoned the island, together with the town which they had built, when
it was taken possession of by the Neapolitans. This explains the myth
concerning Typhon, who, they say, lies beneath the island, and when he
turns himself, causes flames and water to rush forth, and sometimes even
small islands to rise in the sea, containing springs of hot water.
Pindar throws more credibility into the myth, by making it comformable
to the actual phenomena, for the whole strait from Cumæa to Sicily is
subigneous, and below the sea has certain galleries which form a
communication between [the volcanos[2012] of the islands[2013]] and
those of the mainland. He shows that Ætna is on this account of the
nature described by all, and also the Lipari Islands, with the regions
around Dicæarchia, Neapolis, Baïæ, and the Pithecussæ. And mindful
hereof, [Pindar] says that Typhon lies under the whole of this space.
“Now indeed the sea-girt shores beyond Cumæ, and Sicily,
press on his shaggy breast. ”[2014]
Timæus,[2015] who remarks that many paradoxical accounts were related by
the ancients concerning the Pithecussæ, states, nevertheless, that a
little before his time, Mount Epomeus,[2016] in the middle of the
island, being shaken by an earthquake, vomited forth fire; and that the
land between it and the coast was driven out into the sea. That the
powdered soil, after being whirled on high, was poured down again upon
the island in a whirlwind. That the sea retired from it to a distance of
three stadia, but after remaining so for a short time it returned, and
inundated the island, thus extinguishing the fire. And that the
inhabitants of the continent fled at the noise, from the sea-coast, into
the interior of Campania. It seems that the hot-springs[2017] here are a
remedy for those afflicted with gravel. Capreæ[2018] anciently possessed
two small cities, afterwards but one. The Neapolitans possessed this
island, but having lost Pithecussæ in war, they received it again from
Cæsar Augustus, giving him in exchange Capreæ. This [island] having thus
become the property of that prince, he [CAS.
made the Esino the boundary; afterwards the river Rubicon: the Esino
being between Ancona and Sena, and the Rubicon between Ariminum and
Ravenna, both of them falling into the Adriatic. At the present day,
however, since Italy comprehends the whole country as far as the Alps,
we need take no further notice of these limits. All allow that
Ombrica[1771] extends as far as Ravenna, as the inhabitants are Ombrici.
From Ravenna to Ariminum they say is about 300 stadia. Going from
Ariminum to Rome by the Via Flaminia, the whole journey lies through
Ombrica as far as the city of Ocricli[1772] and the Tiber, a distance of
1350 stadia. This, consequently, is the length [of Ombrica]; its breadth
varies. The cities of considerable magnitude situated on this side the
Apennines along the Via Flaminia, are Ocricli on the Tiber,
Laroloni,[1773] and Narnia,[1774] through which the Nera[1775] flows.
This river discharges itself into the Tiber a little above Ocricli; it
is not navigable for large vessels. After these are Carsuli and
Mevania,[1776] past which latter the Teneas[1777] flows, by which river
the merchandise of the plain is transported in small vessels to the
Tiber. There are also other cities well populated, rather on account of
the route along which they lie, than for their political importance.
Such are Forum Flaminium,[1778] Nuceria[1779] where wooden vases are
manufactured, and Forum Sempronium. [1780] Going from Ocricli to
Ariminum, on the right of the [CAS. 228] way are Interamna,[1781]
Spoletium,[1782] Asisium,[1783] and Camerta, situated in the mountains
which bound Picenum. On the other side[1784] are Ameria,[1785]
Tuder,[1786] a well-fortified city, Hispellum,[1787] and Iguvium,[1788]
near to the passes of the mountain. The whole of this country is
fertile, but rather too mountainous, and producing more rye[1789] than
wheat for the food of the inhabitants. The next district, Sabina, is
mountainous, and borders on Tyrrhenia in like manner. The parts of
Latium which border on these districts and the Apennines are very
rugged. These two nations[1790] commence from the Tiber and Tyrrhenia,
and extend as far as the Apennines which advance obliquely towards the
Adriatic: Ombrica extends, as we have said, beyond as far as the sea. We
have now sufficiently described the Ombrici.
CHAPTER III.
1. The Sabini occupy a narrow country, its length from the Tiber and the
small city of Nomentum[1791] to the Vestini being 1000 stadia. They have
but few cities, and these have suffered severely in their continual wars
[with the Romans]. Such are Amiternum[1792] and Reate,[1793] which is
near to the village of Interocrea[1794] and the cold waters at Cotyliæ,
which are taken by patients, both as drink and as baths, for the cure of
various maladies. The rocks of Foruli,[1795] likewise, belong to the
Sabini; fitted rather for rebellion than peaceable habitation. Cures is
now a small village, although formerly a famous city: whence came Titus
Tatius and Numa Pompilius, kings of Rome. From this place is derived the
name of Quirites, which the orators give to the Romans when they address
the people. Trebula,[1796] Eretum,[1797] and other similar places, must
be looked upon rather as villages than cities. The whole land [of
Sabina] is singularly fertile in olive-trees and vines, it produces also
many acorns, and besides has excellent cattle: the mules bred at
Reate[1798] are much celebrated. In one word the whole of Italy is rich
both in cattle and vegetable productions; although certain articles may
be finer in some districts than in others. The race of the Sabini is
extremely ancient, they are Autochthones. The Picentini and Samnitæ
descend from them, as do the Leucani from these latter, and the Bruttii
again from these. A proof of their antiquity may be found in the bravery
and valour which they have maintained till the present time.
Fabius,[1799] the historian, says that the Romans first knew what wealth
was when they became masters of this nation. The Via Salaria, which
however does not extend far, runs through their country: the Via
Nomentana, which commences likewise at the Porta Collina, falls in with
the Via Salaria near to Eretum, a village of Sabina lying above the
Tiber.
2. Beyond Sabina is Latium, wherein the city of Rome is situated. It
comprises many places which formed no part of ancient Latium. For the
Æqui, the Volsci, the Hernici, the aborigines around Rome, the Rutuli
who possessed ancient Ardea, and many other nations, some larger, some
smaller, formed so many separate states around Rome, when that city was
first built. Some of these nations, who dwelt in villages, were governed
by their own laws, and subjected to no common tribe. They say[1800] that
Æneas, with his father Anchises and his child Ascanius, arrived at
Laurentum,[1801] near to Ostia and the bank of the Tiber, where he built
a city about 24 stadia above the sea. That Latinus, the king of the
aborigines who then dwelt on the site where Rome now stands, employed
his forces to aid Æneas against the neighbouring Rutuli who inhabited
Ardea, (now from Ardea to Rome is a distance of 160 stadia,) and having
gained a victory, he built near to the spot a city, to which he gave the
name of his daughter Lavinia. However, in a second battle, commenced by
the Rutuli, Latinus fell, and Æneas, being conqueror, [CAS. 229]
succeeded this prince on the throne, and conferred on his subjects the
name of Latini. After the death both of himself and his father, Ascanius
founded Alba,[1802] on Mount Albanus,[1803] situated about the same
distance from Rome as Ardea. Here Romans and Latini conjointly offer
sacrifice to Jupiter. The magistracy all assemble, and during the period
of the solemnity the government of the city is intrusted to some
distinguished youth. The facts related of Amulius and his brother
Numitor, some of which are fictitious, while others approach nearer the
truth, occurred four hundred years later. These two brothers, who were
descended from Ascanius, succeeded conjointly to the government of Alba,
which extended as far as the Tiber. However, Amulius the younger, having
expelled the elder, governed [alone]. Numitor had a son and a daughter;
the former Amulius treacherously murdered in the chase; the latter, that
she might remain childless, he made a priestess of Vesta, thus imposing
virginity upon her. This [daughter] they name Rhea Silvia. Afterwards he
discovered that she was pregnant, and when she had given birth to twins,
he, out of respect to his brother, placed her in confinement, instead of
putting her to death, and exposed the boys by the Tiber according to a
national usage. According to the mythology, Mars was the father of these
children, and when they were exposed they were discovered and suckled by
a she-wolf. Faustulus, one of the swine-herds of the place, took and
reared them up, and named one Romulus, the other Remus. (We must
understand that Faustulus, who took them up and nourished them, was an
influential man, and a subject of Amulius. ) Having arrived at man’s
estate, they waged war upon Amulius and his sons; and having slain them,
restored the government to Numitor. They then returned home and founded
Rome, in a locality selected rather through necessity than choice, as
the site was neither fortified by nature, nor sufficiently large for a
city of importance. In addition to this, the neighbourhood supplied no
inhabitants; for those who dwelt around, even though touching the very
walls of the newly founded city, kept to themselves, and would have
nothing at all to do with the Albani. Collatia, Antemnæ, Fidenæ,
Labicum,[1804] and similar places are here alluded to which then were
small cities, but are now villages possessed by private individuals;
they are distant from Rome 30 or 40[1805] stadia, or rather more.
Between the fifth and sixth mile-stone which marks the distance from
Rome there is a place named Festi; this they say was at that time the
limit of the Roman territory, and at the present day, both here and in
numerous other places which they consider to have been boundaries, the
priests offer the sacrifice denominated Ambarvia. [1806] They say that,
at the time of the foundation [CAS. 230] [of the city], a dispute arose
in which Remus lost his life. The city being built, Romulus assembled
men from every quarter, and instituted for an asylum a grove between the
citadel and the Capitol, to which whoever fled from the neighbouring
states, he proclaimed as Roman citizens. Not having wives for these men,
he appointed a horse-race in honour of Neptune, which is celebrated to
this day. Numbers [of spectators] having assembled, particularly of the
Sabini, he commanded that each of those who were in want of a wife,
should carry off one of the assembled maidens. Titus Tatius, king of the
Quirites, took up arms to avenge the insult, but made peace with Romulus
on condition that their kingdoms should be united, and that they should
divide the sovereignty between them. Tatius, however, was treacherously
assassinated in Lavinium, upon which Romulus, with the consent of the
Quirites, reigned alone. After him Numa Pompilius, formerly a subject of
Tatius, assumed the government, by the general desire of the people.
Such is the most authentic account of the foundation of Rome.
3. However, there also exists another more ancient and mythical account,
to the effect that Rome was an Arcadian colony planted by Evander. He
entertained Hercules when driving the oxen of Geryon, and being informed
by his mother Nicostrata, (who was skilled in the art of prophecy,) that
when Hercules should have completed his labours it was fore-ordained
that he should be enrolled amongst the gods; he informed him of the
matter, consecrated to him a grove, and offered sacrifice to him after
the Grecian mode; a sacrifice which is continued in honour of Hercules
to this day. The Roman historian Cœlius is of opinion that this is a
proof that Rome is a Grecian colony, the sacrifice to Hercules after the
Grecian mode having been brought over from their fatherland. The Romans
also worship the mother of Evander under the name of Carmentis,[1807]
considering her one of the nymphs.
4. Thus then the Latini originally were few in number, and for the most
part under no subjection to the Romans; but afterwards, being struck by
the valour of Romulus and the kings who succeeded him, they all
submitted. But the Æqui,[1808] the Volsci, the Hernici; and before them
the Rutuli, the aborigines, the Rhæci, together with certain of the
[CAS. 231] Argyrusci and the Preferni,[1809] being subdued, the whole of
their different countries were included under the name of Latium. To the
Volsci pertained the Pomentine plain, bordering on the territory of the
Latini, and the city of Apiola, levelled to the ground[1810] by
Tarquinius Priscus. The Æqui principally were neighbours to the
Quirites, whose cities Tarquinius Priscus likewise devastated. His son
took Suessa,[1811] the metropolis of the Volsci. The Hernici dwelt near
to Lanuvium, Alba, and to Rome itself; neither were Aricia,[1812] the
Tellenæ, and Antium[1813] at any great distance. The Albani were at
first friendly with the Romans, speaking as they did the same language,
and being likewise of the Latin stock; and though they were under
separate governments, this did not prevent them from marrying together,
nor from performing in common the sacred ceremonies at Alba, and other
civil rites. In after-time, however, war having sprung up, Alba was
entirely destroyed with the exception of the temple, and the Albani were
declared citizens of Rome. Of the other surrounding cities, those which
resisted were either destroyed or enfeebled, while others, which were
friendly to the Romans, flourished. At the present day the coast from
Ostia to the city of Sinuessa[1814] is denominated the Latin coast;
formerly the country thus designated extended only so far as
Circæum. [1815] The interior also [of Latium] was formerly small; but it
afterwards extended to Campania, the Samnitæ, the Peligni,[1816] and
other nations dwelling around the Apennines.
5. The whole [of Latium] is fertile, and abounding in every production,
with the exception of a few districts along the coast, which are marshy
and unhealthy; such as the country of Ardea, the lands between Antium
and Lanuvium as far as Pometia, and certain of the districts of
Setia,[1817] Terracina, and Circæum. Some parts may also be too
mountainous and rocky; but even these are not absolutely idle and
useless, since they furnish abundant pasturage, wood, and the peculiar
productions of the marsh and rock; while Cæcubum, which is entirely
marshy, nourishes a vine, the dendritis,[1818] which produces the most
excellent wine. Of the maritime cities of Latium, one is Ostia. This
city has no port, owing to the accumulation of the alluvial deposit
brought down by the Tiber, which is swelled by numerous rivers; vessels
therefore bring to anchor further out, but not without danger; however,
gain overcomes every thing, for there is an abundance of lighters in
readiness to freight and unfreight the larger ships, before they
approach the mouth of the river, and thus enable them to perform their
voyage speedily. Being lightened of a part of their cargo, they enter
the river and sail up to Rome, a distance of about 190 stadia. Such is
the city of Ostia, founded by Ancus Martius. Next in order comes Antium,
which city is likewise destitute of any port; it is situated on rocks,
and about 260 stadia distant from Ostia. At the present day it is
devoted to the leisure and recreation of statesmen from their political
duties, whenever they can find time, and is in consequence covered with
sumptuous mansions suited to such rusticating. The inhabitants of Antium
had formerly a marine, and even after they were under subjection to the
Romans, took part with the Tyrrhenian pirates. Of this, first, Alexander
sent to complain; after him Demetrius, having taken many of these
pirates, sent them to the Romans, saying that he would surrender them
their persons on account of their affinity to the Greeks, and remarking
at the same time, that it seemed to him a great impropriety, that those
who held sway over the whole of Italy should send out pirates, and that
they who had consecrated in their forum a temple to the honour of the
Dioscuri,[1819] whom all denominated the Saviours, should likewise send
to commit acts of piracy on Greece, which was the fatherland of those
divinities. Hereupon the Romans put a stop to this occupation [piracy].
Between these two cities is Lavinium, which contains a temple of Venus
common to all the Latini, the care of which is intrusted to the priests
of [CAS. 232] Ardea. After this is Laurentum;[1820] and above these lies
Ardea, a colony of the Rutuli, 70 stadia from the sea; near to it is
another temple of Venus, where all the Latini hold a public festival.
These regions have been ravaged by the Samnitæ, and only the traces of
the cities left; but even these are reverenced on account of the arrival
of Æneas here, and of the religious rites which they say were bequeathed
from those times.
6. At 290 stadia from Antium is Mount Circæum, insulated by the sea and
marshes. They say that it contains numerous roots, but this perhaps is
only to harmonize with the myth relating to Circe. It has a small city,
together with a temple to Circe and an altar to Minerva; they likewise
say that a cup is shown which belonged to Ulysses. Between [Antium and
Circæum] is the river Stura,[1821] which has a station for ships: the
rest of the coast is exposed to the south-west wind,[1822] with the
exception of this small harbour of Circæum. [1823] Above this, in the
interior, is the Pomentine plain: the region next to this was formerly
inhabited by the Ausonians, who likewise possessed Campania: next after
these the Osci, who also held part of Campania; now, however, as we have
remarked, the whole, as far as Sinuessa, belongs to the Latini. A
peculiar fate has attended the Osci and Ausonians; for although the Osci
have ceased to exist as a distinct tribe, their dialect is extant among
the Romans, dramatic and burlesque pieces composed in it being still
represented at certain games which were instituted in ancient times. And
as for the Ausonians, although they never have dwelt by the sea of
Sicily,[1824] it is named the Ausonian Sea. At 100 stadia from Circæum
is Tarracina, formerly named Trachina,[1825] on account of its
ruggedness; before it is a great marsh, formed by two rivers, the larger
of which is called the Aufidus. [1826] This is the first place where the
Via Appia approaches the sea. This road is paved from Rome to
Brundusium,[1827] and has great traffic. Of the maritime cities, these
alone are situated on it; Tarracina, beyond it Formiæ,[1828]
Minturnæ,[1829] Sinuessa,[1830] and towards its extremity Tarentum and
Brundusium. Near to Tarracina, advancing in the direction of Rome, a
canal runs by the side of the Via Appia, which is supplied at intervals
by water from the marshes and rivers. Travellers generally sail up it by
night, embarking in the evening, and landing in the morning to travel
the rest of their journey by the way: however, during the day the
passage boat is towed by mules. [1831] Beyond is Formiæ, founded by the
Lacedæmonians, and formerly called Hormiæ, on account of its excellent
port. Between these [two cities],[1832] is a gulf which they have named
Caiata,[1833] in fact all gulfs are called by the Lacedæmonians Caietæ:
some, however, say that the gulf received this appellation from
[Caieta], the nurse of Æneas. From Tarracina to the promontory of Caiata
is a length of 100 stadia. Here[1834] are opened vast caverns, which
contain large and sumptuous mansions. From hence to Formiæ is a distance
of 40 stadia. Between this city and Sinuessa, at a distance of about 80
stadia from each, is Minturnæ. The river Liris,[1835] formerly named the
Clanis, flows through it. It descends from the Apennines, passes through
the country of the Vescini,[1836] and by the village of Fregellæ,
(formerly a famous city,) and so into a sacred grove situated below the
city, and held in great veneration by the people of Minturnæ. There are
two islands, named Pandataria and Pontia,[1837] lying in the high sea,
and clearly discernible from the caverns. Although small, they are well
inhabited, are not at any great distance from each other, and at 250
stadia from the mainland. Cæcubum is situated on the gulf of Caiata, and
next to it Fundi, a city on the Via Appia. All these places produce
excellent wines; but those of Cæcubum, Fundi, and Setia[1838] are most
in repute, and so are the Falernian, Alban,[1839] and Statanian wines.
Sinuessa is situated in a gulf from which it takes its name, sinus
signifying [CAS. 234] [in Latin] a gulf. Near to it are some fine
hot-baths, good for the cure of various maladies. Such are the maritime
cities of Latium.
7. In the interior, the first city above Ostia is Rome; it is the only
city built on the Tiber. It has been remarked above, that its position
was fixed, not by choice, but necessity; to this must be added, that
those who afterwards enlarged it, were not at liberty to select a better
site, being prevented by what was already built. The first [kings]
fortified the Capitol, the Palatium, and the Collis Quirinalis, which
was so easy of access, that when Titus Tatius came to avenge the rape of
the [Sabine] virgins, he took it on the first assault. Ancus Marcius,
who added Mount Cælius and the Aventine Mount with the intermediate
plain, separated as these places were both from each other and from what
had been formerly fortified, was compelled to do this of necessity;
since he did not consider it proper to leave outside his walls, heights
so well protected by nature, to whomsoever might have a mind to fortify
themselves upon them, while at the same time he was not capable of
enclosing the whole as far as Mount Quirinus. Servius perceived this
defect, and added the Esquiline and Viminal hills. As these were both of
easy access from without, a deep trench was dug outside them and the
earth thrown up on the inside, thus forming a terrace of 6 stadia in
length along the inner side of the trench. This terrace he surmounted
with a wall flanked with towers, and extending from the Colline[1840] to
the Esquiline gate. Midway along the terrace is a third gate, named
after the Viminal hill. Such is the Roman rampart, which seems to stand
in need of other ramparts itself. But it seems to me that the first
[founders] were of opinion, both in regard to themselves and their
successors, that Romans had to depend not on fortifications, but on arms
and their individual valour, both for safety and for wealth, and that
walls were not a defence to men, but men were a defence to walls. At the
period of its commencement, when the large and fertile districts
surrounding the city belonged to others, and while it lay easily open to
assault, there was nothing in its position which could be looked upon as
favourable; but when by valour and labour these districts became its
own, there succeeded a tide of prosperity surpassing the advantages of
every other place. Thus, notwithstanding the prodigious increase of the
city, there has been plenty of food, and also of wood and stone for
ceaseless building, rendered necessary by the falling down of houses,
and on account of conflagrations, and of the sales, which seem never to
cease. These sales are a kind of voluntary falling down of houses, each
owner knocking down and rebuilding one part or another according to his
individual taste. For these purposes the numerous quarries, the forests,
and the rivers which convey the materials, offer wonderful facilities.
Of these rivers, the first is the Teverone,[1841] which flows from Alba,
a city of the Latins near to the country of the Marsi, and from thence
through the plain below this [city], till it unites with the Tiber.
After this come the Nera[1842] and the Timia,[1843] which passing
through Ombrica fall into the Tiber, and the Chiana,[1844] which flows
through Tyrrhenia and the territory of Clusium. [1845] Augustus Cæsar
endeavoured to avert from the city damages of the kind alluded to, and
instituted a company of freedmen, who should be ready to lend their
assistance in cases of conflagration;[1846] whilst, as a preventive
against the falling of houses, he decreed that all new buildings should
not be carried so high as formerly, and that those erected along the
public ways should not exceed seventy feet in height. [1847] But these
improvements must have ceased only for the facilities afforded by the
quarries, the forests, and the ease of transport.
8. These advantages accrued to the city from the nature of the country;
but the foresight of the Romans added others [CAS. 235] besides. The
Grecian cities are thought to have flourished mainly on account of the
felicitous choice made by their founders, in regard to the beauty and
strength of their sites, their proximity to some port, and the fineness
of the country. But the Roman prudence was more particularly employed on
matters which had received but little attention from the Greeks, such as
paving their roads, constructing aqueducts, and sewers, to convey the
sewage of the city into the Tiber. In fact, they have paved the roads,
cut through hills, and filled up valleys, so that the merchandise may be
conveyed by carriage from the ports. The sewers, arched over with hewn
stones, are large enough in some parts for waggons loaded with hay to
pass through; while so plentiful is the supply of water from the
aqueducts, that rivers may be said to flow through the city and the
sewers, and almost every house is furnished with water-pipes and copious
fountains. To effect which Marcus Agrippa directed his special
attention; he likewise bestowed upon the city numerous ornaments. We may
remark, that the ancients, occupied with greater and more necessary
concerns, paid but little attention to the beautifying of Rome. But
their successors, and especially those of our own day, without
neglecting these things, have at the same time embellished the city with
numerous and splendid objects. Pompey, divus Cæsar, and Augustus, with
his children, friends, wife, and sister, have surpassed all others in
their zeal and munificence in these decorations. The greater number of
these may be seen in the Campus Martius, which to the beauties of nature
adds those of art. The size of the plain is marvellous, permitting
chariot-races and other feats of horsemanship without impediment, and
multitudes to exercise themselves at ball,[1848] in the circus[1849] and
the palæstra. The structures which surround it, the turf covered with
herbage all the year round, the summits of the hills beyond the Tiber,
extending from its banks with panoramic effect, present a spectacle
which the eye abandons with regret. Near to this plain is another
surrounded with columns, sacred groves, three theatres, an amphitheatre,
and superb temples in close contiguity to each other; and so
magnificent, that it would seem idle to describe the rest of the city
after it. For this cause the Romans, esteeming it as the most sacred
place, have there erected funeral monuments to the most illustrious
persons of either sex. The most remarkable of these is that designated
as the Mausoleum,[1850] which consists of a mound of earth raised upon a
high foundation of white marble, situated near the river, and covered to
the top with ever-green shrubs. Upon the summit is a bronze statue of
Augustus Cæsar, and beneath the mound are the ashes[1851] of himself,
his relatives, and friends. Behind is a large grove containing charming
promenades. In the centre of the plain,[1852] is the spot where this
prince was reduced to ashes; it is surrounded with a double enclosure,
one of marble, the other of iron, and planted within with poplars. If
from hence you proceed to visit the ancient forum, which is equally
filled with basilicas, porticos, and temples, you will there behold the
Capitol, the Palatium, with the noble works which adorn them, and the
piazza of Livia, each successive place causing you speedily to forget
what you have before seen. Such is Rome.
9. Of the other cities of Latium, some are distinguished by a variety of
remarkable objects, others by the celebrated roads which intersect
Latium, being situated either upon, or near to, or between these roads,
the most celebrated of which are the Via Appia, the Via Latina, and the
Via Valeria. The former of these bounds the maritime portion of Latium,
as far as Sinuessa, the latter extends along Sabina as far as the Marsi,
whilst between these is the Via Latina, which falls in with the Via
Appia near to Casilinum,[1853] a city distant from Capua[1854] 19
stadia. The Via Latina commences from the Via Appia, branching from it
towards the left, near to Rome. It passes over the Tusculan mountain,
between the city of Tusculum[1855] and Mount Albanus; it then descends
to the little city of Algidum,[1856] and the Pictæ tavern; afterwards
the Via [CAS. 237] Lavicana joins it, which commences, like the Via
Prænestina, from the Esquiline gate. This road, as well as the Esquiline
plain, the Via Lavicana leaves on the left; it then proceeds a distance
of 120 stadia, or more, when it approaches Lavicum, an ancient city now
in ruins, situated on an eminence; this and Tusculum it leaves on the
right, and terminates near to Pictæ in the Via Latina. This place is 210
stadia distant from Rome. Proceeding thence along the Via Latina there
are noble residences, and the cities Ferentinum,[1857] Frusino,[1858] by
which the river Cosa flows, Fabrateria,[1859] by which flows the river
Sacco,[1860] Aquinum,[1861] a large city, by which flows the great river
Melfa,[1862] Interamnium, situated at the confluence of two rivers, the
Garigliano and another, Casinum, also an important city, and the last of
those belonging to Latium. For Teanum, called Sidicinum,[1863] which
lies next in order, shows by its name that it belongs to the nation of
the Sidicini. These people are Osci, a surviving nation of the Campani,
so that this city, which is the largest of those situated upon the Via
Latina, may be said to be Campanian; as well as that of Cales,[1864]
another considerable city which lies beyond, and is contiguous to
Casilinum. [1865]
10. As to the places situated on either side of the Via Latina, those on
the right are between it and the Via Appia; of their number are
Setia[1866] and Signia,[1867] which produce wine, that of Setia being
one of the dearest wines, and that called Signium the best for
strengthening the stomach. Before this[1868] are Privernum,[1869]
Cora,[1870] Suessa,[1871] ‘Trapontium,’[1872] Velitræ,[1873]
Aletrium,[1874] and also Fregellæ,[1875] by which the Garigliano flows,
which discharges itself [into the sea] near Minturnæ. Fregellæ, though
now a village, was formerly a considerable city, and the chief of the
surrounding places we have just named. Even now their inhabitants throng
to it on market days, and for the performance of certain religious
solemnities. Its defection from the Romans was the cause of its
ruin. [1876] Both these, and also the cities lying on the Via Latina and
beyond, situated in the territories of the Hernici, Æqui, and Volsci,
were for the most part founded by the Romans. To the left of the Via
Latina, the cities between it and the Via Valeria, are, Gabii,[1877]
standing in the Via Prænestina, it possesses a stone-quarry, in greater
demand at Rome than any other, and is at an equal distance of about 100
stadia between Rome and Præneste. [1878] Then Præneste, of which we shall
have occasion presently to speak. Then, in the mountains above Præneste,
Capitulum, a small city of the Hernici, and Anagnia,[1879] a
considerable city; Cereate,[1880] and Sora, by which the river
Garigliano[1881] flows as it passes on to Fregellæ, and Minturnæ. After
these there are other places, and finally, Venafrum,[1882] from whence
comes the finest oil. This city is situated on a high hill by the foot
of which flows the Volturno,[1883] which passing by Casilinum,[1884]
discharges itself [into the sea] at a city[1885] bearing the same name
as itself. Æsernia[1886] and Alliphæ,[1887] cities of the Samnites, the
former was destroyed in the Marsian war,[1888] the other still remains.
11.
The Via Valeria, commencing from Tibura,[1889] leads to the country
of the Marsi, and to Corfinium,[1890] the metropolis of the Peligni.
Upon it are situated the Latin cities of Valeria,[1891] Carseoli,[1892]
Alba,[1893] and near to it the city of Cuculum. [1894] Within sight of
Rome are Tibura, Præneste, and Tusculum. [1895] At Tibura is a temple of
Hercules, and a cataract formed by the fall of the Teverone,[1896]
(which is here navigable,) from a great height into a deep and wooded
ravine close to the city. From thence the river flows through a highly
fertile plain along by [CAS. 238] the Tiburtine stone-quarries, those of
the Gabii, and those denominated the red-stone quarries. As both the
carriage from the quarries and the conveyance by river are easy, most of
the Roman edifices are built of materials from hence. In this plain flow
the cold waters called Albula, they spring from numerous fountains, and
are taken both as a beverage and as baths,[1897] for the cure of various
diseases. Of the same kind are the Labanæ,[1898] not far from these, on
the Via Nomentana, and near to Eretum. [1899] At Præneste is the
celebrated temple and oracle of Fortune. Both this and the preceding
city are situated on the same chain of mountains, and are distant from
each other 100 stadia. Præneste is 200 stadia from Rome, Tibura less
than that distance. They are said to be both of Grecian foundation,
Præneste being formerly named Polystephanus. They are both fortified,
but Præneste is the stronger place of the two, having for its citadel a
lofty mountain, which overhangs the town, and is divided at the back
from the adjoining mountain range by a neck of land. This mountain is
two stadia higher than the neck in direct altitude. In addition to these
[natural] defences, the city is furnished on all sides with
subterraneous passages, which extend to the plains, and some of which
serve to convey water, while others form secret ways; it was in one of
these that Marius[1900] perished, when he was besieged. Other cities are
in most instances benefited by a strong position, but to the people of
Præneste it has proved a bane, owing to the civil wars of the Romans.
For hither the revolutionary movers take refuge, and when at last they
surrender, in addition to the injury sustained by the city during the
war, the country is confiscated, and the guilt thus imputed to the
guiltless. The river Verestis[1901] flows through this region. The said
cities are to the east of Rome.
12. But within-side the chain of mountains, [where these cities are
situated,] there is another ridge, leaving a valley between it and Mount
Algidus; it is lofty, and extends as far as Mount Albanus. [1902] It is
on this ridge that Tusculum is situated, a city which is not wanting in
adornment, being entirely surrounded by ornamental plantations and
edifices, particularly that part of it which looks towards Rome. For on
this side Tusculum presents a fertile hill, well irrigated, and with
numerous gentle slopes embellished with majestic palaces. Contiguous are
the undulating slopes of Mount Albanus, which are equally fertile and
ornamented. Beyond are plains which extend some of them to Rome and its
environs, others to the sea; these latter are unhealthy, but the others
are salubrious and well cultivated. Next after Albanum is the city
Aricia, on the Appian Way. It is 160 stadia from Rome. This place is
situated in a hollow, and has a strong citadel. [1903] Beyond it on one
side of the way is Lanuvium,[1904] a Roman city on the right of the Via
Appia, and from which both the sea and Antium may be viewed. On the
other side is the Artemisium,[1905] which is called Nemus,[1906] on the
left side of the way, leading from Aricia to the temple. [1907] They say
that it is consecrated to Diana Taurica, and certainly the rites
performed in this temple are something barbarous and Scythic. They
appoint as priest a fugitive who has murdered the preceding priest with
his own hand. Apprehensive of an attack upon himself, the priest is
always armed with a sword, ready for resistance. The temple is in a
grove, and before it is a [CAS. 240] lake of considerable size. The
temple and water are surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices, so that
they seem to be situated in a deep and hollow ravine. The springs by
which the lake is filled are visible. One of these is denominated
Egeria, after the name of a certain divinity; however, their course on
leaving the lake is subterraneous, but they may be observed at some
distance, when they rise to the surface of the ground.
13. Near to these localities is Mount Albanus,[1908] which is much
higher than either the Artemisium or the heights surrounding it,
although these are sufficiently lofty and precipitous. It has likewise a
lake,[1909] much larger than that of the Artemisium. Further forward
than these are the cities on the Via Latina, we have already mentioned.
Alba[1910] is the most inland of all the Latin cities; it borders on the
Marsi, and is situated on a high hill near to Lake Fucinus. This [lake]
is vast as a sea, and is of great service to the Marsi and all the
surrounding nations. They say, that at times its waters rise to the
height of the mountains which surround it, and at others subside so
much, that the places which had been covered with water reappear and may
be cultivated; however, the subsidings of the waters occur irregularly
and without previous warning, and are followed by their rising again;
the springs fail altogether and gush out again after a time; as they say
is the case with the Amenanus,[1911] which flows through Catana,[1912]
for after remaining dry for a number of years, it again flows. It is
reported that the Marcian[1913] water, which is drunk at Rome in
preference to any other, has its source in [Lake] Fucinus. As Alba is
situated in the depths of the country, and is besides a strong position,
the Romans have often employed it as a place of security, for lodging
important prisoners. [1914]
CHAPTER IV.
1. After having commenced with the nations about the Alps, and the
Apennine mountains which are near to these, we proceeded from thence and
passed through that portion of the hither country lying between the
Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennine mountains, which incline towards the
Adriatic, as far as the Samnites and the Campani. We will now return
again, and describe the mountaineers, and those who dwell at the foot of
the mountains; whether on the coast of the Adriatic, or in the interior.
Thus, we must recommence from the boundaries of Keltica. [1915]
2. After the cities of the Ombrici, which are comprised between
Ariminum[1916] and Ancona, comes Picenum. The Picentini proceeded
originally from the land of the Sabini. A woodpecker led the way for
their chieftains, and from this bird they have taken their name, it
being called in their language Picus, and is regarded as sacred to Mars.
They inhabit the plains extending from the mountains to the sea; the
length of their country considerably exceeds its breadth; the soil is
every where good, but better fitted for the cultivation of fruits than
grain. Its breadth, from the mountains to the sea varies in different
parts. But its length; from the river Æsis[1917] to Castrum,[1918]
sailing round the coast, is 800 stadia. Of its cities, Ancona is of
Grecian origin, having been founded by the Syracusans who fled from the
tyranny of Dionysius. It is situated upon a cape, which bending round
towards the north forms a harbour; and it abounds in wine and wheat.
Near to it is the city of Auxumon,[1919] at a little distance from the
sea. After it are Septempeda,[1920] Pneuentia,[1921] Potentia,[1922] and
Firmum Picenum,[1923] with its port of Castellum. [1924] Beyond, is the
temple of Cupra,[1925] built and dedicated by the Tyrrheni to Juno, who
is named by them Cupra; and after it the river Tronto,[1926] [CAS. 241]
with a city of the same name. [1927] Beyond this is Castrum Novum,[1928]
and the river Piomba,[1929] flowing from the city of Adria,[1930] and
having [at its mouth] the naval station of Adria, which bears the same
name as itself. In the interior is [the city of Adria] itself and
Asculum Picenum,[1931] a very strong position, upon which is built a
wall: the mountains which surround it are not accessible to
armies. [1932] Above Picenum are the Vestini,[1933] the Marsi,[1934] the
Peligni,[1935] the Marucini,[1936] and the Frentani,[1937] a Samnitic
nation possessing the hill-country, and extending almost to the sea. All
these nations are small, but extremely brave, and have frequently given
the Romans proofs of their valour, first as enemies, afterwards as
allies; and finally, having demanded the liberty and rights of citizens,
and being denied, they revolted and kindled the Marsian war. [1938] They
decreed that Corfinium,[1939] the metropolis of the Peligni, should be
the capital for all the Italians instead of Rome: made it their place
d’armes, and new-named it Italica. Then, having convoked deputies from
all the people friendly to their design, they created consuls[1940] and
prætors, and maintained the war for two[1941] years, until they had
obtained the rights for which they struggled. The war was named the
Marsian[1942] war, because that nation commenced the insurrection, and
particularly on account of Pompædius. [1943] These nations live generally
in villages, nevertheless they are possessed of certain cities, some of
which are at some little distance from the sea, as Corfinium,
Sulmo,[1944] Maruvium,[1945] and Teatea[1946] the metropolis of the
Marrucini. Others are on the coast, as Aternum[1947] on the Picentine
boundary, so named from the river [Aternus], which separates the Vestini
from the Marrucini. This river flows from the territory of Amiternum and
through the Vestini, leaving on its right the Marrucini, who lie above
the Peligni, [at the place where the river] is crossed by a bridge. The
city, which bears the same name, (viz. Aternum,) belongs to the Vestini,
but its port is used in common both by the Peligni and the Marrucini.
The bridge I have mentioned is about 24 stadia from Corfinium. After
Aternum is Orton,[1948] a naval arsenal of the Frentani, and Buca,[1949]
which belongs to the same people, and is conterminous with the Apulian
Teanum. [1950] †Ortonium[1951] is situated in the territory of the
Frentani. It is rocky, and inhabited by banditti, who construct their
dwellings of the wrecks of ships, and lead [CAS. 242] otherwise a savage
life. † Between Orton and Aternum is the river Sagrus,[1952] which
separates the Frentani from the Peligni. From Picenum to the Apuli,
named by the Greeks the Daunii,[1953] sailing round the coast, is
a distance of about 490[1954] stadia.
3. Next in order after Latium is Campania, which extends along the
[Tyrrhenian] Sea; above it is Samnium, in the interior, extending as far
as the Frentani and Daunii; and beyond are the Daunii, and the other
nations as far as the Strait of Sicily. We shall in the first place
speak of Campania. From Sinuessa[1955] to Misenum[1956] the coast forms
a vast gulf; beyond this is another gulf still larger, which they name
the Crater. [1957] It is enclosed by the two promontories of Misenum and
the Athenæum. [1958] It is along the shores of these [two gulfs] that the
whole of Campania is situated. This plain is fertile above all others,
and entirely surrounded by fruitful hills and the mountains of the
Samnites and Osci. Antiochus says that this country was formerly
inhabited by the Opici, and that these were called Ausones. Polybius
appears to consider these as two people, for he says that the Opici and
Ausones inhabit the country around the Crater. [1959] Others, however,
state that it was originally inhabited by Opici and Ausones, but was
afterwards seized on by a nation of the Osci, who were driven out by the
Cumæi, and these again by the Tyrrheni. Thus the possession of the plain
was much disputed on account of its great fertility. [They add that the
Tyrrheni] built there twelve cities, and named the metropolis Capua. But
luxury having made them effeminate, in the same way that they had
formerly been driven from the banks of the Po, they were now forced to
abandon this country to the Samnites; who in their turn fell before the
Romans. One proof of the fertility of this country is, that it produces
the finest corn. I allude to the grain from which a groat is made
superior to all kinds of rice, and to almost all other farinacious food.
They say that some of the plains are cropped all the year round; twice
with rye, the third time with panic, and occasionally a fourth time
with vegetables. It is likewise from hence that the Romans procure their
finest wines, the Falernian, the Statanian, and the Calenian. That of
Surrentum[1960] is now esteemed equal to these, it having been lately
discovered that it can be kept to ripen. In addition to this, the whole
country round Venafrum, bordering on the plains, is rich in olives.
4. The maritime cities [of Campania], after Sinuessa, are
Liternum,[1961] where is the sepulchral monument of the first of the two
Scipios, surnamed Africanus; it was here that he passed the last days of
his life, having abandoned public affairs in disgust at the intrigues of
certain opponents. A river of the same name[1962] flows by this city. In
like manner the Vulturnus bears the same name as the city[1963] founded
on it, which comes next in order: this river flows through
Venafrum[1964] and the midst of Campania. After these [cities] comes
Cumæ,[1965] the most ancient settlement[1966] of the Chalcidenses and
Cumæans, for it is the oldest of all [the Greek cities] in Sicily or
Italy. The leaders of the expedition, Hippocles the Cumæan and
Megasthenes of Chalcis, having mutually agreed that one of the nations
should have the management of the colony, and the other the honour of
conferring upon it its own name. Hence at the present day it is named
Cumæ, while at the same time it is said to have been founded by the
Chalcidenses. At first this city was highly prosperous, as well as the
Phlegræan[1967] plain, which mythology has made the scene of the
adventures of the giants, for no other reason, as it appears, than
because the fertility of the country had given rise to battles for its
possession. Afterwards, however, the Campanians becoming masters[1968]
of the city, inflicted much injustice on the [CAS. 243] inhabitants, and
even violated their wives. Still, however, there remain numerous traces
of the Grecian taste, their temples, and their laws. Some are of opinion
that Cumæ was so called from τὰ κύματα, the waves, the sea-coast near it
being rocky and exposed. These people have excellent fisheries. On the
shores of this gulf there is a scrubby forest, extending over numerous
acres of parched and sandy land. This they call the Gallinarian[1969]
wood. It was there that the admirals of Sextus Pompeius assembled their
gangs of pirates, at the time when he drew Sicily into revolt. [1970]
5. Near to Cumæ is the promontory of Misenum,[1971] and between them is
the Acherusian Lake,[1972] which is a muddy estuary of the sea. Having
doubled Misenum, you come to a harbour at the very foot of the
promontory. After this the shore runs inland, forming a deeply indented
bay, on which are Baïæ and the hot springs, much used, both as a
fashionable watering-place, and for the cure of diseases. Contiguous to
Baïæ is the Lucrine Lake,[1973] and within this the Lake Avernus,[1974]
which converts into a peninsula the land stretching from the maritime
district, situated between it and Cumæ, as far as Cape Misenum, for
there is only an isthmus of a few stadia, across which a subterraneous
road is cut [from the head of the gulf of Avernus] to Cumæ and the sea
[shore] on which it stands. Former writers, mingling fable with history,
have applied to Avernus the expressions of Homer in his Invocation of
Departed Spirits,[1975] and relate that here formerly was an oracle of
the dead,[1976] and that it was to this place that Ulysses came.
However, this gulf of Avernus is deep even near the shore, with an
excellent entrance, and is both as to its size and nature a harbour; but
it is not used, on account of the Lucrine Gulf which lies before it, and
is both large and somewhat shallow. The Avernus is surrounded with steep
hills which encompass the whole of it, with the exception of the
entrance. These hills, now so beautifully cultivated were formerly
covered with wild forests, gigantic and impenetrable, which overshadowed
the gulf, imparting a feeling of superstitious awe. The inhabitants
affirm that birds, flying over the lake, fall into the water,[1977]
being stifled by the vapours rising from it, a phenomenon of all
Plutonian[1978] localities. They believed, in fact, that this place was
a Plutonium, around which the Kimmerians used to dwell, and those who
sailed into the place made sacrifice and propitiatory offerings to the
infernal deities, as they were instructed by the priests who ministered
at the place. There is here a spring of water near to the sea fit for
drinking, from which, however, every one abstained, as they supposed it
to be water from the Styx: [they thought likewise] that the oracle of
the dead was situated some where here; and the hot springs near to the
Acherusian Lake indicated the proximity of Pyriphlegethon. Ephorus,
peopling this place with Kimmerii, tells us that they dwell in
under-ground habitations, named by them Argillæ, and that these
communicate with one another by means of certain subterranean passages;
and that they conduct strangers through them to the oracle, which is
built far below the surface of the earth. They live on the mines
together with the profits accruing from the oracle, and grants made to
them by the king [of the country]. It was a traditional custom for the
servants of the oracle never to behold the sun, and only to quit their
caverns at night. It was on this account that the poet said,
“On them the Sun
Deigns not to look with his beam-darting eye. ”[1979]
At last, however, these men were exterminated by one of the kings, the
oracle having deceived him; but [adds Ephorus] the oracle is still in
existence, though removed to another [CAS. 245] place. Such were the
myths related by our ancestors. But now that the wood surrounding the
Avernus has been cut down by Agrippa, the lands built upon, and a
subterranean passage cut from Avernus to Cumæ, all these appear fables.
Perhaps[1980] Cocceius, who made this subterranean passage,[1981] wished
to follow the practice of the Kimmerians we have already described, or
fancied that it was natural to this place that its roads should be made
under-ground.
6. The Lucrine gulf extends in breadth as far as Baïæ; it is separated
from the sea by a bank eight stadia in length, and the breadth of a
carriage-way; this they say was constructed by Hercules when he drove
away the oxen of Geryon. But as the wave covered its surface in stormy
weather, rendering it difficult to pass on foot, Agrippa has repaired
it. Small vessels can put into it, but it is useless as a harbour. [1982]
It contains abundant oyster-beds. Some take this to be the Acherusian
Lake, while Artemidorus confounds it with Avernus. They say that Baïæ
took its name from Baïus one of the companions of Ulysses, and Misenum
from Misenus. Beyond is the strand and city of Dicæarchia. Formerly it
was nothing but a naval station of the Cumæi. It was built on an
eminence. But at the time of the war with Hannibal, the Romans
established a colony there, and changed its name into Puteoli,[1983] [an
appellation derived] from its wells; or, according to others, from the
stench of its waters, the whole district from hence to Baïæ and Cumæ
being full of sulphur, fire, and hot-springs. Some too are of opinion
that it was on this account [that the country about] Cumæ was named
Phlegra, and that the fables of the giants struck down by thunderbolts
owe their origin to these eruptions of fire and water. This city has
become a place of extensive commerce, having artificially constructed
harbours, which were much facilitated by the facile nature of the sand,
which contains much gypsum, and will cement and consolidate thoroughly.
For mixing this sand with chalk-stones they construct moles in the sea,
thus forming bays along the open coast, in which the largest transport
ships may safely ride. Immediately above the city lies the
Forum-Vulcani,[1984] a plain surrounded with hills which seem to be on
fire, having in many parts mouths emitting smoke, frequently accompanied
by a terrible rumbling noise; the plain itself is full of drifted
sulphur.
7. After Dicæarchia is Neapolis,[1985] [founded[1986] originally] by the
Cumæi, but afterwards being peopled by Chalcidians, and certain
Pithecussæans and Athenians,[1987] it was on this account denominated
Naples. [1988] Here is pointed out the tomb of [CAS. 246] Parthenope, one
of the sirens, and a gymnastic sport is celebrated by command of an
oracle. In course of time the inhabitants, having disagreed amongst
themselves, admitted certain Campanians; thus being forced to regard in
the light of friends those most inimical to them, since their friends
were hostile. This is proved by the names of their demarchi, the earlier
of which are Grecian, but the latter a mixture of Campanian with the
Grecian names. Many traces of Grecian institution are still preserved,
the gymnasia, the ephebeia,[1989] the fratriæ,[1990] and the Grecian
names of people who are Roman citizens. At the present time they
celebrate, every fifth year, public games for music and gymnastic
exercises during many days, which rival the most famous games of Greece.
There is here a subterranean passage, similar to that at Cumæ,[1991]
extending for many stadia along the mountain,[1992] between
Dicæarchia[1993] and Neapolis: it is sufficiently broad to let carriages
pass each other, and light is admitted from the surface of the mountain,
by means of numerous apertures cut through a great depth. [1994] Naples
also has hot springs and baths not at all inferior in quality to those
at Baïæ, but much less frequented, for another city has arisen there,
not less than Dicæarchia, one palace after another having been built.
Naples still preserves the Grecian mode of life, owing to those who
retire hither from Rome for the sake of repose, after a life of labour
from childhood, and to those whose age or weakness demands relaxation.
Besides these, Romans who find attractions in this style of life, and
observe the numbers of persons dwelling there, are attracted by the
place, and make it their abode.
8. Following this is the fortress of Heraclæum,[1995] built upon a
promontory which projects out into the sea, and which, on account of the
prevalence of the south-west wind, is a very healthy spot. The
Osci[1996] originally possessed both this and Pompeia,[1997] which is
next to it, by which the river Sarno[1998] flows; afterwards the
Tyrrheni and Pelasgi,[1999] and then the Samnites[2000] obtained
possession of them, and the last[2001] in their turn were driven from
these regions. Pompeia is the port for Nola,[2002] Nuceria,[2003] and
Acerræ, which bears the same name as the city near to Cremona. It is
built on the river Sarno, by which merchandise is received and exported.
Above these places is Mount Vesuvius, which is covered with very
beautiful fields, excepting its summit, a great part of which is level,
but wholly sterile. It appears ash-coloured to the eye, cavernous
hollows appear formed of blackened stones, looking as if they had been
subjected to the action of fire. From this we may infer that the place
was formerly in a burning state with live craters, which however became
extinguished on the failing of the fuel. Perhaps this [volcano] may have
been the cause of the fertility of the surrounding country, the same as
occurs in Catana, where they say that that portion which has been
covered with ashes thrown up by the fires of Ætna is most excellent for
the vine. The land about Vesuvius contains fat, and a soil which has
been subjected to fire, and is very strong and productive of fruit: when
this fat superabounds, it is apt, like all sulphurous substances, to
take fire, but being dried up by evaporation, extinguished, and
pulverized, it becomes a productive earth. Adjoining [CAS. 247] Pompeia
is Surrentum,[2004] [a city] of the Campanians, from whence the
Athenæum,[2005] called by some the promontory of the Sirenusæ, projects
[into the sea]; upon its summit is the temple of Minerva, founded by
Ulysses. From hence to the island of Capreas the passage is short; after
doubling the promontory you encounter various desert and rocky little
islands, which are called the Sirenusæ. [2006] On the side towards
Surrentum there is shown a temple with the ancient offerings of those
who held this place in veneration. Here is the end of the bay named
Crater,[2007] which is bounded by the two promontories of Misenum[2008]
and the Athenæum, both looking towards the south. The whole is adorned
by the cities we have described, by villas, and plantations, so close
together that to the eye they appear but one city.
9. In front of Misenum lies the island of Prochyta,[2009] which has been
rent from the Pithecussæ. [2010] Pithecussæ was peopled by a colony of
Eretrians and Chalcidians, which was very prosperous on account of the
fertility of the soil and the productive gold-mines; however, they
abandoned the island on account of civil dissensions, and were
ultimately driven out by earthquakes, and eruptions of fire, sea, and
hot waters. It was on account of these eruptions, to which the island is
subject, that the colonists sent by Hiero,[2011] the king of Syracuse,
abandoned the island, together with the town which they had built, when
it was taken possession of by the Neapolitans. This explains the myth
concerning Typhon, who, they say, lies beneath the island, and when he
turns himself, causes flames and water to rush forth, and sometimes even
small islands to rise in the sea, containing springs of hot water.
Pindar throws more credibility into the myth, by making it comformable
to the actual phenomena, for the whole strait from Cumæa to Sicily is
subigneous, and below the sea has certain galleries which form a
communication between [the volcanos[2012] of the islands[2013]] and
those of the mainland. He shows that Ætna is on this account of the
nature described by all, and also the Lipari Islands, with the regions
around Dicæarchia, Neapolis, Baïæ, and the Pithecussæ. And mindful
hereof, [Pindar] says that Typhon lies under the whole of this space.
“Now indeed the sea-girt shores beyond Cumæ, and Sicily,
press on his shaggy breast. ”[2014]
Timæus,[2015] who remarks that many paradoxical accounts were related by
the ancients concerning the Pithecussæ, states, nevertheless, that a
little before his time, Mount Epomeus,[2016] in the middle of the
island, being shaken by an earthquake, vomited forth fire; and that the
land between it and the coast was driven out into the sea. That the
powdered soil, after being whirled on high, was poured down again upon
the island in a whirlwind. That the sea retired from it to a distance of
three stadia, but after remaining so for a short time it returned, and
inundated the island, thus extinguishing the fire. And that the
inhabitants of the continent fled at the noise, from the sea-coast, into
the interior of Campania. It seems that the hot-springs[2017] here are a
remedy for those afflicted with gravel. Capreæ[2018] anciently possessed
two small cities, afterwards but one. The Neapolitans possessed this
island, but having lost Pithecussæ in war, they received it again from
Cæsar Augustus, giving him in exchange Capreæ. This [island] having thus
become the property of that prince, he [CAS.