Whereas, in the other case, a common want
summons the spouses to table, the same inclination keeps them
there; they naturally show each other these little attentions as a
proof of their wish to oblige, and the mode of conducting their
meals has a great share in the happiness of their lives.
summons the spouses to table, the same inclination keeps them
there; they naturally show each other these little attentions as a
proof of their wish to oblige, and the mode of conducting their
meals has a great share in the happiness of their lives.
Warner - World's Best Literature - v04 - Bes to Bro
We
had a Heptarchy in this country, and it was thought to be a
good thing to get rid of it, and have a united nation. If the
thirty-three or thirty-four States of the American Union can
break off whenever they like, I can see nothing but disaster and
confusion throughout the whole of that continent. I say that
the war, be it successful or not, be it Christian or not, be it
wise or not, is a war to sustain the government and to sustain
the authority of a great nation; and that the people of England,
if they are true to their own sympathies, to their own history,
and to their own great act of 1834, to which reference has
already been made, will have no sympathy with those who wish
to build up a great empire on the perpetual bondage of millions
of their fellow-men.
## p. 2361 (#559) ###########################################
JOHN BRIGHT
2361
FROM THE SPEECH ON THE STATE OF IRELAND (1866)
I
THINK I was told in 1849, as I stood in the burial ground at
Skibbereen, that at least four hundred people who had died
of famine were buried within the quarter of an
acre of
ground on which I was then looking. It is a country, too, from
which there has been a greater emigration by sea within a given
time than has been known at any time from any other country
in the world. It is a country where there has been, for genera-
tions past, a general sense of wrong, out of which has grown a
chronic state of insurrection; and at this very moment when I
speak, the general safeguard of constitutional liberty is with-
drawn, and we meet in this hall, and I speak here to-night,
rather by the forbearance and permission of the Irish executive
than under the protection of the common safeguards of the rights
and liberties of the people of the United Kingdom.
I venture to say that this is a miserable and a humiliating pict-
ure to draw of this country. Bear in mind that I am not speak-
ing of Poland suffering under the conquest of Russia. There is
a gentleman, now a candidate for an Irish county, who is very
great upon the wrongs of Poland; but I have found him always
in the House of Commons taking sides with that great party
which has systematically supported the wrongs of Ireland. I am
not speaking of Hungary, or of Venice as she was under the rule
of Austria, or of the Greeks under the dominion of the Turk;
but I am speaking of Ireland-part of the United Kingdom-
part of that which boasts itself to be the most civilized and the
most Christian nation in the world. I took the liberty recently,
at a meeting in Glasgow, to say that I believed it was impossible
for a class to govern a great nation wisely and justly. Now, in
Ireland there has been a field in which all the principles of the
Tory party have had their complete experiment and development.
You have had the country gentleman in all his power. You
have had any number of Acts of Parliament which the ancient
Parliament of Ireland or the Parliament of the United Kingdom
could give him. You have had the Established Church supported
by the law, even to the extent, not many years ago, of collecting
its revenues by the aid of military force. In point of fact, I
believe it would be impossible to imagine a state of things in
which the Tory party should have a more entire and complete
T
## p. 2362 (#560) ###########################################
2362
JOHN BRIGHT
opportunity for their trial than they have had within the limits.
of this island. And yet what has happened? This, surely: that
the kingdom has been continually weakened, that the harmony
of the empire has been disturbed, and that the mischief has
not been confined to the United Kingdom, but has spread to the
colonies.
I am told-you can answer it if I am wrong—that it is not
common in Ireland now to give leases to tenants, especially to
Catholic tenants. If that be so, then the security for the property
rests only upon the good feeling and favor of the owner of the
land; for the laws, as we
we know, have been made by the land-
owners, and many propositions for the advantage of the tenants
have unfortunately been too little considered by Parliament.
The result is that you have bad farming, bad dwelling-houses,
bad temper, and everything bad connected with the occupation
and cultivation of land in Ireland. One of the results-a result
the most appalling-is this, that your population is fleeing your
country and seeking refuge in a distant land. On this point I
wish to refer to a letter which I received a few days ago from a
most esteemed citizen of Dublin. He told me that he believed
that a very large portion of what he called the poor, amongst
Irishmen, sympathized with any scheme or any proposition that
was adverse to the Imperial Government. He said further that the
people here are rather in the country than of it, and that they
are looking more to America than they are looking to England.
I think there is a good deal in that. When we consider how many
Irishmen have found a refuge in America, I do not know how we
can wonder at that statement. You will recollect that when the
ancient Hebrew prophet prayed in his captivity, he prayed with
his window open towards Jerusalem. You know that the fol-
lowers of Mohammed, when they pray, turn their faces towards
Mecca. When the Irish peasant asks for food and freedom and
blessing, his eye follows the setting sun, the aspirations of his
heart reach beyond the wide Atlantic, and in spirit he grasps
hands with the great Republic of the West. If this be so, I say
then that the disease is not only serious, but it is desperate; but
desperate as it is, I believe there is a certain remedy for it if
the people and Parliament of the United Kingdom are willing to
apply it. .
I believe that at the root of a general discontent there is in
all countries a general grievance and general suffering. The
## p. 2363 (#561) ###########################################
JOHN BRIGHT
2363
surface of society is not incessantly disturbed without a cause.
I recollect in the poem of the greatest of Italian poets, he tells
us that as he saw in vision the Stygian lake, and stood upon its
banks, he observed the constant commotion upon the surface of
the pool, and his good instructor and guide explained to him the
cause of it:
--
"This, too, for certain know, that underneath
The water dwells a multitude, whose sighs
Into these bubbles make the surface heave,
As thine eye tells thee wheresoe'er it turn. "
And I say that in Ireland, for generations back, the misery
and the wrongs of the people have made their sign, and have
found a voice in constant insurrection and disorder. I have said
that Ireland is a country of many wrongs and of many sorrows.
Her past lies almost in shadow. Her present is full of anxiety
and peril. Her future depends on the power of her people to
substitute equality and justice for supremacy, and a generous
patriotism for the spirit of faction. In the effort now making
in Great Britain to create a free representation of the people you
have the deepest interest. The people never wish to suffer, and
they never wish to inflict injustice. They have no sympathy with
the wrong-doer, whether in Great Britain or in Ireland; and when
they are fairly represented in the Imperial Parliament, as I hope
they will one day be, they will speedily give an effective and
final answer to that old question of the Parliament of Kilkenny-
"How comes it to pass that the King has never been the richer
for Ireland? »
FROM THE SPEECH ON THE IRISH ESTABLISHED CHURCH
(1868)
I
AM one of those who do not believe that the Established
Church of Ireland-of which I am not a member-would
go to absolute ruin, in the manner of which many of its
friends are now so fearful. There was a paper sent to me this
morning, called 'An Address from the Protestants of Ireland to
their Protestant Brethren of Great Britain. ' It is dated «< 5,
Dawson Street," and is signed by "John Trant Hamilton, T. A.
Lefroy, and R. W. Gamble. " The paper is written in a fair and
## p. 2364 (#562) ###########################################
2364
JOHN BRIGHT
mild, and I would even say,- for persons who have these opin-
ions, in a kindly and just spirit. But they have been alarmed,
and I would wish, if I can, to offer them consolation. They say
they have no interest in protecting any abuses of the Established
Church, but they protest against their being now deprived of the
Church of their fathers. Now, I am quite of opinion that it
would be a most monstrous thing to deprive the Protestants of
the Church of their fathers; and there is no man in the world
who would more strenuously resist even any step in that direc-
tion than I would, unless it were Mr. Gladstone, the author of
the famous resolutions. The next sentence goes on to say, "We
ask for no ascendancy. " Having read that sentence, I think
that we must come to the conclusion that these gentlemen are
in a better frame of mind than we thought them to be in. I
can understand easily that these gentlemen are very sorry and
doubtful as to the depths into which they are to be plunged;
but I disagree with them in this- that I think there would still
be a Protestant Church in Ireland when all is done that Parlia-
ment has proposed to do. The only difference will be, that it
will not then be an establishment - that it will have no special
favor or grant from the State-that it will stand in relation to
the State just as your Church does, and just as the churches of
the majority of the people of Great Britain at this moment stand.
There will then be no Protestant bishops from Ireland to sit in
the House of Lords; but he must be the most enthusiastic Prot-
estant and Churchman who believes that there can be any ad-
vantage to his Church and to Protestantism generally in Ireland
from such a phenomenon.
-
## p. 2365 (#563) ###########################################
2365
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
(1755-1826)
B
RILLAT-SAVARIN was a French magistrate and legislator, whose
reputation as man of letters rests mainly upon a single
volume, his inimitable Physiologie du Goût. ' Although
writing in the present century, he was essentially a Frenchman of
the old régime, having been born in 1755 at Belley, almost on the
border-line of Savoy, where he afterwards gained distinction as an
advocate. In later life he regretted his native province chiefly for
its figpeckers, superior in his opinion to ortolans or robins, and for the
cuisine of the innkeeper Genin, where "the
old-timers of Belley used to gather to eat
chestnuts and drink the new white wine
known as vin bourru. »
After holding various minor offices in
his department, Savarin became mayor of
Belley in 1793; but the Reign of Terror
soon forced him to flee to Switzerland and
join the colony of French refugees at Lau-
sanne. Souvenirs of this period are fre-
quent in his 'Physiologie du Goût,' all
eminently gastronomic, as befits his sub-
ject-matter, but full of interest, as showing
his unfailing cheerfulness amidst the vicis-
situdes and privations of exile. He fled first to Dôle, to "obtain
from the Representative Prôt a safe-conduct, which was to save me
from going to prison and thence probably to the scaffold," and which
he ultimately owed to Madame Prôt, with whom he spent the even-
ing playing duets, and who declared, "Citizen, any one who cultivates
the fine arts as you do cannot betray his country! " It was not the
safe-conduct, however, but an unexpected dinner which he enjoyed
on his route, that made this a red-letter day to Savarin:-"What a
good dinner! -I will not give the details, but an honorable mention
is due to a fricassée of chicken, of the first order, such as cannot be
found except in the provinces, and so richly dowered with truffles
that there were enough to put new life into old Tithonus himself. "
The whole episode is told in Savarin's happiest vein, and well-
nigh justifies his somewhat complacent conclusion that "any one
who, with a revolutionary committee at his heels, could so conduct
himself, assuredly has the head and the heart of a Frenchman! "
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
## p. 2366 (#564) ###########################################
2366
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
Natural scenery did not appeal to Savarin; to him Switzerland
meant the restaurant of the Lion d'Argent, at Lausanne, where
<<< for
only 15 batz we passed in review three complete courses;" the table
d'hôte of the Rue de Rosny; and the little village of Moudon, where
the cheese fondue was so good. Circumstances, however, soon neces-
sitated his departure for the United States, which he always grate-
fully remembered as having afforded him "an asylum, employment,
and tranquillity. " For three years he supported himself in New
York, giving French lessons and at night playing in a theatre
orchestra. "I was so comfortable there," he writes, "that in the
moment of emotion which preceded departure, all that I asked of
Heaven (a prayer which it has granted) was never to know greater
sorrow in the Old World than I had known in the New. " Returning
to France in 1796, Savarin settled in Paris, and after holding several
offices under the Directory, became a Judge in the Cour de Cassation,
the French court of last resort, where he remained until his death in
1826.
-
Although an able and conscientious magistrate, Savarin was better
adapted to play the kindly friend and cordial host than the stern and
impartial judge. He was convivial soul, a lover of good cheer and
free-handed hospitality; and to-day, while almost forgotten as a jur-
ist, his name has become immortalized as the representative of gastro-
nomic excellence.
(
His Physiologie du Goût'-"that olla podrida
which defies analysis," as Balzac calls it belongs, like Walton's
'Compleat Angler,' or White's 'Selborne,' among those unique gems
of literature, too rare in any age, which owe their subtle and imper-
ishable charm primarily to the author's own delightful personality.
Savarin spent many years of loving care in polishing his manuscript,
often carrying it to court with him, where it was one day mislaid,
but luckily for future generations of epicures was afterward
recovered. The book is a charming badinage, a bizarre ragoût of
gastronomic precepts and spicy anecdote, doubly piquant for its pre-
vailing tone of mock seriousness and intentional grandiloquence.
In emulation of the poet Lamartine, Savarin divided his subject
into 'Meditations,' of which the seventh is consecrated to the
'Theory of Frying,' and the twenty-first to 'Corpulence. ' In the
familiar aphorism, "Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what
you are," he strikes his key-note; man's true superiority lies in his
palate! "The pleasure of eating we have in common with the ani-
mals; the pleasure of the table is peculiar to the human species. "
Gastronomy he proclaims the chief of all sciences: "It rules life in
its entirety; for the tears of the new-born infant summon the breast
of its nurse, and the dying man still receives with some pleasure the
final potion, which, alas, he is not destined to digest. " Occasionally
―――
## p. 2367 (#565) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2367
he affects an epic strain, invoking Gasteria, "the tenth muse, who
presides over the pleasures of taste. " "It is the fairest of the Muses
who inspires me: I will be clearer than an oracle, and my precepts
will traverse the centuries. " Beneath his pen, soup, "the first con-
solation of the needy stomach," assumes fresh dignity; and even the
humble fowl becomes to the cook "what the canvas is to the painter,
or the cap of Fortunatus to the charlatan. " But like the worthy
epicure that he was, Savarin reserved his highest flights of eloquence
for such rare and toothsome viands as the Poularde fine de Bresse,
the pheasant, "an enigma of which the key-word is known only to
the adepts," a sauté of truffles, "the diamonds of the kitchen," or,
best of all, truffled turkeys, "whose reputation and price are ever on
the increase! Benign stars, whose apparition renders the gourmands
of every category sparkling, radiant, and quivering! " But the true
charm of the book lies in Savarin's endless fund of piquant anec-
dotes, reminiscences of bygone feasts, over which the reader's mouth
waters. Who can read without a covetous pang his account of 'The
Day at Home with the Bernadins,' or of his entertainment of the
Dubois brothers, of the Rue du Bac, "a bonbon which I have put
into the reader's mouth to recompense him for his kindness in hav-
ing read me with pleasure » ?
'Physiologie du Goût' was not published until 1825, and then
anonymously, presumably because he thought its tone inconsistent
with his dignity as magistrate. It would almost seem that he had a
presentiment of impending death, for in the midst of his brightest
'Variétés he has incongruously inserted a dolorous little poem, the
burden of each verse being "Je vais mourir. " The Physiologie du
Goût' is now accessible to English readers in the versions of R. E.
Anderson (London, 1877), and in a later one published in New York;
but there is a subtle flavor to the original which defies translation.
FROM THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE
THE PRIVATIONS
F
IRST parents of the human species, whose gormandizing is
historic, you who fell for the sake of an apple, what would
you not have done for a turkey with truffles? But there
were in the terrestrial Paradise neither cooks nor confectioners.
How I pity you!
Mighty kings, who laid proud Troy in ruins, your valor will
be handed down from age to age; but your table was poor. Re-
duced to a rump of beef and a chine of pork, you were ever
## p. 2368 (#566) ###########################################
2368
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
ignorant of the charms of the matelote and the delights of a
fricassée of chicken.
*
How I pity you!
Aspasia, Chloe, and all of you whose forms the chisel of the
Greeks immortalized, to the despair of the belles of to-day, never
did your charming mouths enjoy the smoothness of a meringue
à la vanille or à la rose; hardly did you rise to the height of a
spice-cake.
How I pity you!
Gentle priestesses of Vesta, at one and the same time bur-
dened with so many honors and menaced with such horrible
punishments, would that you might at least have tasted those
agreeable syrups which refresh the soul, those candied fruits
which brave the seasons, those perfumed creams, the marvel of
our day!
How I pity you!
Roman financiers, who made the whole known universe pay
tribute, never did your far-famed banquet-halls witness the ap-
pearance of those succulent jellies, the delight of the indolent,
nor those varied ices whose cold would brave the torrid zone.
How I pity you!
Invincible paladins, celebrated by flattering minstrels, when
you had cleft in twain the giants, set free the ladies, and ex-
terminated armies, never, alas! never did a dark-eyed captive
offer you the sparkling champagne, the malmsey of Madeira, the
liqueurs, creation of this great century: you were reduced to ale
or to some cheap herb-flavored wine.
How I pity you!
Crosiered and mitred abbots, dispensers of the favors of
heaven; and you, terrible Templars, who donned your armor for
the extermination of the Saracens, -you knew not the sweetness
of chocolate which restores, nor the Arabian bean which pro-
motes thought.
-
How I pity you!
Superb châtelaines, who during the loneliness of the Crusades
raised into highest favor your chaplains and your pages, you
never could share with them the charms of the biscuit and the
delights of the macaroon.
How I pity you!
And lastly you, gastronomers of 1825, who already find satiety
in the lap of abundance. and dream of new preparations, you
## p. 2369 (#567) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2369
will not enjoy those discoveries which the sciences have in store
for the year 1900, such as esculent minerals and liqueurs result-
ing from a pressure of a hundred atmospheres; you will not
behold the importations which travelers yet unborn shall cause to
arrive from that half of the globe which still remains to be dis-
covered or explored.
How I pity you!
ON THE LOVE OF GOOD LIVING
I
HAVE Consulted the dictionaries under the word gourmandise,
and am by no means satisfied with what I find. The love
of good living seems to be constantly confounded with glut-
tony and voracity; whence I infer that our lexicographers, how-
ever otherwise estimable, are not to be classed with those good
fellows amongst learned men who can put away gracefully a
wing of partridge, and then, by raising the little finger, wash
it down with a glass of Lafitte or Clos-Vougeot.
They have utterly forgot that social love of good eating
which combines in one, Athenian elegance, Roman luxury, and
Parisian refinement. It implies discretion to arrange, skill to
prepare; it appreciates energetically, and judges profoundly.
is a precious quality, almost deserving to rank as a virtue, and
is very certainly the source of much unqualified enjoyment.
It
Gourmandise, or the love of good living, is an impassioned,
rational, and habitual preference for whatever flatters the sense
of taste. It is opposed to excess; therefore every man who eats
to indigestion, or makes himself drunk, runs the risk of being
erased from the list of its votaries. Gourmandise also comprises
a love for dainties or tit-bits; which is merely an analogous
preference, limited to light, delicate, or small dishes, to pastry,
and so forth. It is a modification allowed in favor of the
women, or men of feminine tastes.
Regarded from any point of view, the love of good living
deserves nothing but praise and encouragement. Physically, it
is the result and proof of the digestive organs being healthy and
perfect. Morally, it shows implicit resignation to the commands
of Nature, who, in ordering man to eat that he may live, gives
him appetite to invite, flavor to encourage, and pleasure to
reward.
IV-149
## p. 2370 (#568) ###########################################
2370
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
From the political economist's point of view, the love of good
living is a tie between nations, uniting them by the interchange
of various articles of food which are in constant use. Hence the
voyage from Pole to Pole of wines, sugars, fruits, and so forth.
What else sustains the hope and emulation of that crowd of
fishermen, huntsmen, gardeners, and others, who daily stock the
most sumptuous larders with the results of their skill and labor?
What else supports the industrious army of cooks, pastry-cooks,
confectioners, and many other food-preparers, with all their vari-
ous assistants? These various branches of industry derive their
support in a great measure from the largest incomes, but they
also rely upon the daily wants of all classes.
As society is at present constituted, it is almost impossible to
conceive of a race living solely on bread and vegetables. Such
a nation would infallibly be conquered by the armies of some
flesh-eating race (like the Hindoos, who have been the prey of
all those, one after another, who cared to attack them), or else
it would be converted by the cooking of the neighboring nations,
as ancient history records of the Boeotians, who acquired a love
for good living after the battle of Leuctra.
Good living opens out great resources for replenishing the
public purse: it brings contributions to town-dues, to the custom-
house, and other indirect contributions. Everything we eat is
taxed, and there is no exchequer that is not substantially sup-
ported by lovers of good living. Shall we speak of that swarm
of cooks who have for ages been annually leaving France, to
improve foreign nations in the art of good living? Most of them
succeed; and in obedience to an instinct which never dies in a
Frenchman's heart, bring back to their country the fruits of their
economy. The sum thus imported is greater than might be sup-
posed, and therefore they, like the others, will be honored by
posterity.
But if nations were grateful, then Frenchmen, above all other
races, ought to raise a temple and altars to "Gourmandise. " By
the treaty of November, 1815, the allies imposed upon France
the condition of paying thirty millions sterling in three years,
besides claims for compensation and various requisitions, amount-
ing to nearly as much more. The apprehension, or rather cer-
tainty, became general that a national bankruptcy must ensue,
more especially as the money was to be paid in specie.
## p. 2371 (#569) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2371
"Alas! " said all who had anything to lose, as they saw the
fatal tumbril pass to be filled in the Rue Vivienne, "there is our
money emigrating in a lump; next year we shall fall on our
knees before a crown-piece; we are about to fall into the condi-
tion of a ruined man; speculations of every kind will fail; it will
be impossible to borrow; there will be nothing but weakness,
exhaustion, civil death. "
These terrors were proved false by the result; and to the
great astonishment of all engaged in financial matters, the pay-
ments were made without difficulty, credit rose, loans were
eagerly caught at, and during all the time this "superpurgation »
lasted, the balance of exchange was in favor of France. In other
words, more money came into the country than went out of it.
What is the power that came to our assistance? Who is the
divinity that worked this miracle? The love of good living.
When the Britons, Germans, Teutons, Cimmerians, and Scyth-
ians made their irruption into France, they brought a rare
voracity, and stomachs of no ordinary capacity. They did not
long remain satisfied with the official cheer which a forced hos-
pitality had to supply them with. They aspired to enjoyments
of greater refinement; and soon the Queen City was nothing
but a huge refectory. Everywhere they were seen eating, those
intruders in the restaurants, the eating-houses, the inns, the
taverns, the stalls, and even in the streets. They gorged them-
selves with flesh, fish, game, truffles, pastry, and especially with
fruit. They drank with an avidity equal to their appetite, and
always ordered the most expensive wines, in the hope of finding
in them some enjoyment hitherto unknown, and seemed quite
astonished when they were disappointed. Superficial observers
did not know what to think of this menagerie without bounds or
limits; but your genuine Parisian laughed and rubbed his hands.
"We have them now! " said he; "and to-night they'll have paid
us back more than was counted out to them this morning from
the public treasury! "
―――――――
That was a lucky time for those who provide for the enjoy、
ments of the sense of taste. Véry made his fortune; Achard laid
the foundation of his; Beauvilliers made a third; and Madame
Sullot, whose shop in the Palais Royal was a mere box of a
place, sold as many as twelve thousand tarts a day.
The effect still lasts. Foreigners flow in from all quarters of
Europe to renew during peace the delightful habits which they
## p. 2372 (#570) ###########################################
2372
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
contracted during the war. They must come to Paris, and when
they are there, they must be regaled at any price. If our funds
are in favor, it is due not so much to the higher interest they
pay, as to the instinctive confidence which foreigners cannot help
placing in a people amongst whom every lover of good living
finds so much happiness.
Love of good living is by no means unbecoming in women.
It agrees with the delicacy of their organization, and serves as a
compensation for some pleasures which they are obliged to abstain
from, and for some hardships to which nature seems to have
condemned them. There is no more pleasant sight than a pretty
gourmande under arms. Her napkin is nicely adjusted; one of
her hands rests on the table, the other carries to her mouth little
morsels artistically carved, or the wing of a partridge which must
be picked. Her eyes sparkle, her lips are glossy, her talk is cheer-
ful, all her movements graceful; nor is there lacking some spice
of the coquetry which accompanies all that women do. With so
many advantages, she is irresistible, and Cato the Censor himself
could not help yielding to the influence.
The love of good living is in some sort instinctive in women,
because it is favorable to beauty. It has been proved, by a series
of rigorously exact observations, that by a succulent, delicate, and
choice regimen, the external appearances of age are kept away
for a long time. It gives more brilliancy to the eye, more fresh-
ness to the skin, more support to the muscles; and as it is certain
in physiology that wrinkles, those formidable enemies of beauty,
are caused by the depression of muscle, it is equally true that,
other things being equal, those who understand eating are com-
paratively four years younger than those ignorant of that science.
Painters and sculptors are deeply impenetrated with this truth;
for in representing those who practice abstinence by choice or
duty as misers or anchorites, they always give them the pallor
of disease, the leanness of misery, and the wrinkles of decrepitude.
Good living is one of the main links of society, by gradually
extending that spirit of conviviality by which different classes are
daily brought closer together and welded into one whole; by
animating the conversation, and rounding off the angles of con-
ventional inequality. To the same cause we can also ascribe all
the efforts a host makes to receive his guests properly, as well as
their gratitude for his pains so well bestowed. What disgrace
should ever be heaped upon those senseless feeders who, with
## p. 2373 (#571) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2373
unpardonable indifference, swallow down morsels of the rarest
quality, or gulp with unrighteous carelessness some fine-flavored
and sparkling wine.
As a general maxim: Whoever shows a desire to please will
be certain of having a delicate compliment paid him by every
well-bred man.
Again, when shared, the love of good living has the most
marked influence on the happiness of the conjugal state. A
wedded pair with this taste in common have once a day at
least a pleasant opportunity of meeting. For even when they
sleep apart (and a great many do so), they at least eat at the
same table, they have a subject of conversation which is ever
new, they speak not only of what they are eating, but also of
what they have eaten or will eat, of dishes which are in vogue,
of novelties, etc. Everybody knows that a familiar chat is
delightful.
Music, no doubt, has powerful attractions for those who are
fond of it, but one must set about it—it is an exertion. Be-
sides, one sometimes has a cold, the music is mislaid, the instru-
ments are out of tune, one has a fit of the blues, or it is a
forbidden day.
Whereas, in the other case, a common want
summons the spouses to table, the same inclination keeps them
there; they naturally show each other these little attentions as a
proof of their wish to oblige, and the mode of conducting their
meals has a great share in the happiness of their lives.
This observation, though new in France, has not escaped the
notice of Richardson, the English moralist. He has worked out
the idea in his novel 'Pamela,' by painting the different manner
in which two married couples finish their day. The first husband
is a lord, an eldest son, and therefore heir to all the family prop-
erty; the second is his younger brother, the husband of Pamela,
who has been disinherited on account of his marriage, and lives
on half-pay in a state but little removed from abject poverty.
The lord and lady enter their dining-room by different doors,
and salute each other coldly, though they have not met the whole
day before. Sitting down at a table which is magnificently cov-
ered, surrounded by lackeys in brilliant liveries, they help them-
selves in silence, and eat without pleasure. As soon, however,
as the servants have withdrawn, a sort of conversation is begun
between the pair, which quickly shows a bitter tone, passing into
a regular fight, and they rise from the table in a fury of anger,
## p. 2374 (#572) ###########################################
2374
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
and go off to their separate apartments to reflect upon the pleas-
ures of a single life.
The younger brother, on the contrary, is, on reaching his
unpretentious home, received with a gentle, loving heartiness and
the fondest caresses. He sits down to a frugal meal, but every-
thing he eats is excellent; and how could it be otherwise? It is
Pamela herself who has prepared it all. They eat with enjoy-
ment, talking of their affairs, their plans, their love for each
other. A half-bottle of Madeira serves to prolong their repast
and conversation, and soon after they retire together, to forget
in sleep their present hardships, and to dream of a better future.
All honor to the love of good living, such as it is the pur-
pose of this book to describe, so long as it does not come
between men and their occupations or duties! For, as all the
debaucheries of a Sardanapalus cannot bring disrespect upon
womankind in general, so the excesses of a Vitellius need not
make us turn our backs upon a well-appointed banquet. Should
the love of good living pass into gluttony, voracity, intemper-
ance, it then loses its name and advantages, escapes from our
jurisdiction, and falls within that of the moralist to ply it with
good counsel, or of the physician who will cure it by his
remedies.
ON PEOPLE FOND OF GOOD LIVING
THERE are individuals to whom nature has denied a refine-
ment of organs, or a continuity of attention, without which the
most succulent dishes pass unobserved. Physiology has already
recognized the first of these varieties, by showing us the tongue
of these unhappy ones, badly furnished with nerves for inhaling
and appreciating flavors. These excite in them but an obtuse
sentiment; such persons are, with regard to objects of taste, what
the blind are with regard to light. The second class are the
absent-minded, chatterboxes, persons engrossed in business or
ambition, and others who seek to occupy themselves with two
things at once, and eat only to be filled. Such, for example,
was Napoleon; he was irregular in his meals, and ate fast and
badly. But there again was to be traced that absolute will which
he carried into everything he did. The moment appetite was
felt, it was necessary that it should be satisfied; and his estab-
lishment was so arranged that, in any place and at any hour,
chicken, cutlets, and coffee might be forthcoming at a word.
## p. 2375 (#573) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2375
There is a privileged class of persons who are summoned to
the enjoyments of taste by a physical and organic predisposition.
I have always believed in physiognomy and phrenology. Men
have inborn tendencies; and since there are some who come into
the world seeing, hearing, and walking badly, because they are
short-sighted, deaf, or crippled, why should there not be others.
who are specially predisposed to experience a certain series of
sensations? Moreover, even an ordinary observer will constantly
discover faces which bear the unmistakable imprint of a ruling
passion such as superciliousness, self-satisfaction, misanthropy,
sensuality, and many others. Sometimes, no doubt, we meet
with a face that expresses nothing; but when the physiognomy
has a marked stamp it is almost always a true index. The pas-
sions act upon the muscles, and frequently, although a man says
nothing, the various feelings by which he is moved can be read
in his face. By this tension, if in the slightest degree habitual,
perceptible traces are at last left, and the physiognomy thus
assumes its permanent and recognizable characteristics.
-
Those predisposed to epicurism are for the most part of mid-
dling height. They are broad-faced, and have bright eyes,
small forehead, short nose, fleshy lips, and rounded chin. The
women are plump, chubby, pretty rather than beautiful, with a
slight tendency to fullness of figure. It is under such an exterior
that we must look for agreeable guests. They accept all that is
offered them, eat without hurry, and taste with discrimination.
They never make any haste to get away from houses where they
have been well treated, but stay for the evening, because they
know all the games and other after-dinner amusements.
Those, on the contrary, to whom nature has denied an apti-
tude for the enjoyments of taste, are long-faced, long-nosed, and
long-eyed: whatever their stature, they have something lanky
about them. They have dark, lanky hair, and are never in good
condition. It was one of them who invented trousers. The
women whom nature has afflicted with the same misfortune are
angular, feel themselves bored at table, and live on cards and
scandal.
This theory of mine can be verified by each reader from his
own personal observation. I shall give an instance from my own
personal experience:-
Sitting one day at a grand banquet, I had opposite me a
very pretty neighbor, whose face showed the predisposition I
## p. 2376 (#574) ###########################################
2376
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
have described. Leaning to the guest beside me, I said quietly
that from her physiognomy, the young lady on the other side of
the table must be fond of good eating. "You must be mad! "
he answered; "she is but fifteen at most, which is certainly not
the age for such a thing. However, let us watch. "
At first, things were by no means in my favor, and I was
somewhat afraid of having compromised myself, for during the
first two courses the young lady quite astonished me by her dis-
cretion, and I suspected we had stumbled upon an exception,
remembering that there are some for every rule. But at last
the dessert came,-a dessert both magnificent and abundant,-
and my hopes were again revived. Nor did I hope in vain: not
only did she eat of all that was offered her, but she even got
dishes brought to her from the farthest parts of the table.
In a
word, she tasted everything, and my neighbor at last expressed
his astonishment that the little stomach could hold so many
things. Thus was my diagnosis verified, and once again science
triumphed.
-
Whilst I was writing the above, on a fine winter's evening,
M. Cartier, formerly the first violinist at the Opera, paid me a
visit, and sat down at the fireside. Being full of my subject, I
said, after looking at him attentively for some time, "How does
it happen, my dear professor, that you are no epicure, when you
have all the features of one? " "I was one," he replied, "and
among the foremost; but now I refrain. " "On principle, I sup-
pose? " said I; but all the answer I had was a sigh, like one of
Sir Walter Scott's- that is to say, almost a groan.
As some are gourmands by predestination, so others become
so by their state in society or their calling. There are four
classes which I should signalize by way of eminence: the mon-
eyed class, the doctors, men of letters, and the devout.
Inequality of condition implies inequality of wealth, but in-
equality of wealth docs not imply inequality of wants; and he
who can afford every day a dinner sufficient for a hundred per-
sons is often satisfied by eating the thigh of a chicken. Hence
the necessity for the many devices of art to reanimate that ghost
of an appetite by dishes which maintain it without injury, and
caress without stifling it.
The causes which act upon doctors are very different, though
not less powerful. They become epicures in spite of themselves,
and must be made of bronze to resist the seductive power of
## p. 2377 (#575) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2377
circumstances. The "dear doctor" is all the more kindly wel-
comed that health is the most precious of boons; and thus they
are always waited for with impatience and received with eager-
Some are kind to them from hope, others from gratitude.
They are fed like pet pigeons. They let things take their course,
and in six months the habit is confirmed, and they are gour-
mands past redemption.
ness.
I ventured one day to express this opinion at a banquet in
which, with eight others, I took a part, with Dr. Corvisart at the
head of the table. It was about the year 1806.
"You! " cried I, with the inspired tone of a Puritan preacher;
«< you are the last remnant of a body which formerly covered the
whole of France. Alas! its members are annihilated or widely
scattered. No more fermiers-généraux, no abbés nor knights nor
white-coated friars. The members of your profession constitute
the whole gastronomic body. Sustain with firmness that great
responsibility, even if you must share the fate of the three hun-
dred Spartans at the Pass of Thermopyla. "
At the same dinner I observed the following noteworthy fact.
The doctor, who, when in the mood, was a most agreeable com-
panion, drank nothing but iced champagne; and therefore in the
earlier part of the dinner, whilst others were engaged in eating,
he kept talking loudly and telling stories. But at dessert, on
the contrary, and when the general conversation began to be
lively, he became serious, silent, and sometimes low-spirited.
From this observation, confirmed by many others, I have
deduced the following theorem: — "Champagne, though at first
exhilarating, ultimately produces stupefying effects;" a result,
moreover, which is a well-known characteristic of the carbonic
acid which it contains.
Whilst I have the university doctors under my grasp, I must,
before I die, reproach them with the extreme severity which
they use towards their patients. As soon as one has the misfor-
tune to fall into their hands, he must undergo a whole litany of
prohibitions, and give up everything that he is accustomed to
think agreeable. I rise up to oppose such interdictions, as being
for the most part useless. I say useless, because the patient
never longs for what is hurtful. A doctor of judgment will never
lose sight of the instinctive tendency of our inclinations, or forget
that if painful sensations are naturally fraught with danger, those
which are pleasant have a healthy tendency. We have seen a
## p. 2378 (#576) ###########################################
2378
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
drop of wine, a cup of coffee, or a thimbleful of liqueur, call up
a smile to the most Hippocratic face.
Those severe prescribers must, moreover, know very well that
their prescriptions remain almost always without result. The
patient tries to evade the duty of taking them; those about him
easily find a good excuse for humoring him, and thus his death.
is neither hastened nor retarded. In 1815 the medical allowance of
a sick Russian would have made a drayman drunk, and that
of an Englishman was enough for a Limousin.
Nor was any
diminution possible, for there were military inspectors constantly
going round our hospitals to examine the supply and the con-
sumption.
I am the more confident in announcing my opinion because it
is based upon numerous facts, and the most successful practi-
tioners have used a system closely resembling it.
Canon Rollet, who died some fifty years ago, was a hard
drinker, according to the custom of those days. He fell ill, and
the doctor's first words were a prohibition of wine in any form.
On his very next visit, however, our physician found beside the
bed of his patient the corpus delicti itself, to wit, a table covered
with a snow-white cloth, a crystal cup, a handsome-looking bottle,
and a napkin to wipe the lips. At this sight he flew into a vio-
lent passion and spoke of leaving the house, when the wretched
canon cried to him in tones of lamentation, "Ah, doctor, remem-
ber that in forbidding me to drink, you have not forbidden me
the pleasure of looking at the bottle! "
The physician who treated Montlusin of Pont de Veyle was
still more severe, for not only did he forbid the use of wine to
his patient, but also prescribed large doses of water. Shortly
after the doctor's departure, Madame Montlusin, anxious to give
full effect to the medical orders and assist in the recovery of her
husband's health, offered him a large glass of the finest and
clearest water. The patient took it with docility, and began to
drink it with resignation; but stopping short at the first mouth-
ful, he handed back the glass to his wife. "Take it, my dear,"
said he, "and keep it for another time; I have always heard it
said that we should not trifle with remedies. "
In the domain of gastronomy the men of letters are near
neighbors to the doctors. A hundred years ago literary men
were all hard drinkers. They followed the fashion, and the
memoirs of the period are quite edifying on that subject. At
## p. 2379 (#577) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2379
the present day they are gastronomes, and it is a step in the
right direction. I by no means agree with the cynical Geoffroy,
who used to say that if our modern writings are weak, it is be-
cause literary men now drink nothing stronger than lemonade.
The present age is rich in talents, and the very number of books
probably interferes with their proper appreciation; but posterity,
being more calm and judicial, will see amongst them much to
admire, just as we ourselves have done justice to the master-
pieces of Racine and Molière, which were received by their con-
temporaries with coldness.
Never has the social position of men of letters been more
pleasant than at present. They no longer live in wretched gar-
rets; the fields of literature are become more fertile, and even
the study of the Muses has become productive. Received on an
equality in any rank of life, they no longer wait for patronage;
and to fill up their cup of happiness, good living bestows upon
them its dearest favors. Men of letters are invited because of
the good opinion men have of their talents; because their con-
versation has, generally speaking, something piquant in it, and
also because now every dinner-party must as a matter of course
have its literary man.
Those gentlemen always arrive a little late, but are welcomed,
because expected. They are treated as favorites so that they
may come again, and regaled that they may shine; and as they
find all this very natural, by being accustomed to it they become,
are, and remain gastronomes.
Finally, amongst the most faithful in the ranks of gastronomy
we must reckon many of the devout-i. e. , those spoken of by
Louis XIV. and Molière, whose religion consists in outward show;
-nothing to do with those who are really pious and charitable.
Let us consider how this comes about. Of those who wish to
secure their salvation, the greater number try to find the most
pleasant road. Men who flee from society, sleep on the ground,
and wear hair-cloth next the skin, have always been, and must
ever be, exceptions. Now there are certain things unquestionably
to be condemned, and on no account to be indulged in-as balls,
theatres, gambling, and other similar amusements; and whilst
they and all that practice them are to be hated, good living
presents itself insinuatingly in a thoroughly orthodox guise.
By right divine, man is king of nature, and all that the earth
produces was created for him. It is for him that the quail is
## p. 2380 (#578) ###########################################
2380
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
fattened, for him that Mocha possesses so agreeable an aroma,
for him that sugar has such wholesome properties. How then
neglect to use, within reasonable limits, the good things which
Providence presents to us; especially if we continue to regard
them as things that perish with the using, especially if they raise
our thankfulness towards the Author of all!
Other equally strong reasons come to strengthen these. Can
we be too hospitable in receiving those who have charge of our
souls, and keep us in the way of safety? Should those meetings.
with so excellent an object not be made pleasant, and therefore
frequent?
Sometimes, also, the gifts of Comus arrive unsought-perhaps
a souvenir of college days, a present from an old friend, a peace-
offering from a penitent or a college chum recalling himself to
one's memory. How refuse to accept such offerings, or to make
systematic use of them? It is simply a necessity.
The monasteries were real magazines of charming dainties,
which is one reason why certain connoisseurs so bitterly regret
them. Several of the monastic orders, especially that of St.
Bernard, made a profession of good cheer. The limits of gastro-
nomic art have been extended by the cooks of the clergy, and
when M. de Pressigni (afterwards Archbishop of Besançon) re-
turned from the Conclave at the election of Pius VI. , he said
that the best dinner he had had in Rome was at the table of the
head of the Capuchins.
We cannot conclude this article better than by honorably
mentioning two classes of men whom we have seen in all their
glory, and whom the Revolution has eclipsed-the chevaliers and
the abbés. How they enjoyed good living, those dear old fellows!
That could be told at a glance by their nervous nostrils, their
clear eyes, their moist lips and mobile tongues. Each class had
at the same time its own special manner of eating: the chevalier
having something military and dignified in his air and attitude;
while the abbé gathered himself together, as it were, to be nearer
his plate, with his right hand curved inward like the paw of a
cat drawing chestnuts from the fire, whilst in every feature was
shown enjoyment and an indefinable look of close attention.
So far from good living being hurtful to health, it has been
arithmetically proved by Dr. Villermé in an able paper read
before the Académie des Sciences, that other things being equal,
the gourmands live longer than ordinary men.
## p. 2380 (#579) ###########################################
## p. 2380 (#580) ###########################################
CHARLOTTE BRONTE.
W. Grosch
## p. 2380 (#581) ###########################################
2381
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## p. 2380 (#582) ###########################################
## p. 2381 (#583) ###########################################
2381
CHARLOTTE BRONTÉ AND HER SISTERS
(1816-1855)
HE least that can be said of Charlotte Bronté is that she
is a unique figure in literature. Nowhere else do we find
another personality combining such extraordinary qualities
of mind and heart,- qualities strangely contrasted, but still more
strangely harmonized. At times they are baffling, but always fasci-
nating. Nowhere else do we find so intimate an association of the
personality of the author with the work, so thorough an identifica-
tion with it of the author's life, even to the smaller details. So true
is this in the case of Charlotte Bronté that the four novels 'Jane
Eyre,' 'Shirley,' 'Villette,' and 'The Professor' might with some
justice be termed 'Charlotte Bronté; her life and her friends. ' Her
works were in large part an expression of herself; at times the best
expression of herself-of her actual self in experience and of her
spiritual self in travail and in aspiration. It is manifestly impossible
therefore to consider the works of Charlotte Bronté with justice apart
from herself. A correct understanding of her books can be obtained
only from a study of her remarkable personality and of the sad cir-
cumstances of her life.
Public interest in Charlotte Bronté was first roused in 1847. In
October of that year there appeared in London a novel that created
a sensation, the like of which had not been known since the publi-
cation of 'Waverley. ' Its stern and paradoxical disregard for the con-
ventional, its masculine energy, and its intense realism, startled the
public, and proclaimed to all in accents unmistakable that a new,
strange, and splendid power had come into literature, "but yet a
woman. "
And with the success of 'Jane Eyre' came a lively curiosity to
know something of the personality of the author. This was not
gratified for some time. There were many conjectures, all of them
far amiss. The majority of readers asserted confidently that the
work must be that of a man: the touch was unmistakably mascu-
line. In some quarters it met with hearty abuse. The Quarterly
Review, in an article still notorious for its brutality, condemned the
book as coarse, and stated that if 'Jane Eyre' were really written by
a woman, she must be an improper woman, who had forfeited the
society of her sex. This was said in December, 1848, of one of the
noblest and purest of womankind. It is not a matter of surprise that
## p. 2382 (#584) ###########################################
2382
BRONTÉ SISTERS
the identity of this audacious speculator was not revealed. The
recent examination into the topic by Mr. Clement Shorter seems,
however, to fix the authorship of the notice on Lady Eastlake, at
that time Miss Driggs.
had a Heptarchy in this country, and it was thought to be a
good thing to get rid of it, and have a united nation. If the
thirty-three or thirty-four States of the American Union can
break off whenever they like, I can see nothing but disaster and
confusion throughout the whole of that continent. I say that
the war, be it successful or not, be it Christian or not, be it
wise or not, is a war to sustain the government and to sustain
the authority of a great nation; and that the people of England,
if they are true to their own sympathies, to their own history,
and to their own great act of 1834, to which reference has
already been made, will have no sympathy with those who wish
to build up a great empire on the perpetual bondage of millions
of their fellow-men.
## p. 2361 (#559) ###########################################
JOHN BRIGHT
2361
FROM THE SPEECH ON THE STATE OF IRELAND (1866)
I
THINK I was told in 1849, as I stood in the burial ground at
Skibbereen, that at least four hundred people who had died
of famine were buried within the quarter of an
acre of
ground on which I was then looking. It is a country, too, from
which there has been a greater emigration by sea within a given
time than has been known at any time from any other country
in the world. It is a country where there has been, for genera-
tions past, a general sense of wrong, out of which has grown a
chronic state of insurrection; and at this very moment when I
speak, the general safeguard of constitutional liberty is with-
drawn, and we meet in this hall, and I speak here to-night,
rather by the forbearance and permission of the Irish executive
than under the protection of the common safeguards of the rights
and liberties of the people of the United Kingdom.
I venture to say that this is a miserable and a humiliating pict-
ure to draw of this country. Bear in mind that I am not speak-
ing of Poland suffering under the conquest of Russia. There is
a gentleman, now a candidate for an Irish county, who is very
great upon the wrongs of Poland; but I have found him always
in the House of Commons taking sides with that great party
which has systematically supported the wrongs of Ireland. I am
not speaking of Hungary, or of Venice as she was under the rule
of Austria, or of the Greeks under the dominion of the Turk;
but I am speaking of Ireland-part of the United Kingdom-
part of that which boasts itself to be the most civilized and the
most Christian nation in the world. I took the liberty recently,
at a meeting in Glasgow, to say that I believed it was impossible
for a class to govern a great nation wisely and justly. Now, in
Ireland there has been a field in which all the principles of the
Tory party have had their complete experiment and development.
You have had the country gentleman in all his power. You
have had any number of Acts of Parliament which the ancient
Parliament of Ireland or the Parliament of the United Kingdom
could give him. You have had the Established Church supported
by the law, even to the extent, not many years ago, of collecting
its revenues by the aid of military force. In point of fact, I
believe it would be impossible to imagine a state of things in
which the Tory party should have a more entire and complete
T
## p. 2362 (#560) ###########################################
2362
JOHN BRIGHT
opportunity for their trial than they have had within the limits.
of this island. And yet what has happened? This, surely: that
the kingdom has been continually weakened, that the harmony
of the empire has been disturbed, and that the mischief has
not been confined to the United Kingdom, but has spread to the
colonies.
I am told-you can answer it if I am wrong—that it is not
common in Ireland now to give leases to tenants, especially to
Catholic tenants. If that be so, then the security for the property
rests only upon the good feeling and favor of the owner of the
land; for the laws, as we
we know, have been made by the land-
owners, and many propositions for the advantage of the tenants
have unfortunately been too little considered by Parliament.
The result is that you have bad farming, bad dwelling-houses,
bad temper, and everything bad connected with the occupation
and cultivation of land in Ireland. One of the results-a result
the most appalling-is this, that your population is fleeing your
country and seeking refuge in a distant land. On this point I
wish to refer to a letter which I received a few days ago from a
most esteemed citizen of Dublin. He told me that he believed
that a very large portion of what he called the poor, amongst
Irishmen, sympathized with any scheme or any proposition that
was adverse to the Imperial Government. He said further that the
people here are rather in the country than of it, and that they
are looking more to America than they are looking to England.
I think there is a good deal in that. When we consider how many
Irishmen have found a refuge in America, I do not know how we
can wonder at that statement. You will recollect that when the
ancient Hebrew prophet prayed in his captivity, he prayed with
his window open towards Jerusalem. You know that the fol-
lowers of Mohammed, when they pray, turn their faces towards
Mecca. When the Irish peasant asks for food and freedom and
blessing, his eye follows the setting sun, the aspirations of his
heart reach beyond the wide Atlantic, and in spirit he grasps
hands with the great Republic of the West. If this be so, I say
then that the disease is not only serious, but it is desperate; but
desperate as it is, I believe there is a certain remedy for it if
the people and Parliament of the United Kingdom are willing to
apply it. .
I believe that at the root of a general discontent there is in
all countries a general grievance and general suffering. The
## p. 2363 (#561) ###########################################
JOHN BRIGHT
2363
surface of society is not incessantly disturbed without a cause.
I recollect in the poem of the greatest of Italian poets, he tells
us that as he saw in vision the Stygian lake, and stood upon its
banks, he observed the constant commotion upon the surface of
the pool, and his good instructor and guide explained to him the
cause of it:
--
"This, too, for certain know, that underneath
The water dwells a multitude, whose sighs
Into these bubbles make the surface heave,
As thine eye tells thee wheresoe'er it turn. "
And I say that in Ireland, for generations back, the misery
and the wrongs of the people have made their sign, and have
found a voice in constant insurrection and disorder. I have said
that Ireland is a country of many wrongs and of many sorrows.
Her past lies almost in shadow. Her present is full of anxiety
and peril. Her future depends on the power of her people to
substitute equality and justice for supremacy, and a generous
patriotism for the spirit of faction. In the effort now making
in Great Britain to create a free representation of the people you
have the deepest interest. The people never wish to suffer, and
they never wish to inflict injustice. They have no sympathy with
the wrong-doer, whether in Great Britain or in Ireland; and when
they are fairly represented in the Imperial Parliament, as I hope
they will one day be, they will speedily give an effective and
final answer to that old question of the Parliament of Kilkenny-
"How comes it to pass that the King has never been the richer
for Ireland? »
FROM THE SPEECH ON THE IRISH ESTABLISHED CHURCH
(1868)
I
AM one of those who do not believe that the Established
Church of Ireland-of which I am not a member-would
go to absolute ruin, in the manner of which many of its
friends are now so fearful. There was a paper sent to me this
morning, called 'An Address from the Protestants of Ireland to
their Protestant Brethren of Great Britain. ' It is dated «< 5,
Dawson Street," and is signed by "John Trant Hamilton, T. A.
Lefroy, and R. W. Gamble. " The paper is written in a fair and
## p. 2364 (#562) ###########################################
2364
JOHN BRIGHT
mild, and I would even say,- for persons who have these opin-
ions, in a kindly and just spirit. But they have been alarmed,
and I would wish, if I can, to offer them consolation. They say
they have no interest in protecting any abuses of the Established
Church, but they protest against their being now deprived of the
Church of their fathers. Now, I am quite of opinion that it
would be a most monstrous thing to deprive the Protestants of
the Church of their fathers; and there is no man in the world
who would more strenuously resist even any step in that direc-
tion than I would, unless it were Mr. Gladstone, the author of
the famous resolutions. The next sentence goes on to say, "We
ask for no ascendancy. " Having read that sentence, I think
that we must come to the conclusion that these gentlemen are
in a better frame of mind than we thought them to be in. I
can understand easily that these gentlemen are very sorry and
doubtful as to the depths into which they are to be plunged;
but I disagree with them in this- that I think there would still
be a Protestant Church in Ireland when all is done that Parlia-
ment has proposed to do. The only difference will be, that it
will not then be an establishment - that it will have no special
favor or grant from the State-that it will stand in relation to
the State just as your Church does, and just as the churches of
the majority of the people of Great Britain at this moment stand.
There will then be no Protestant bishops from Ireland to sit in
the House of Lords; but he must be the most enthusiastic Prot-
estant and Churchman who believes that there can be any ad-
vantage to his Church and to Protestantism generally in Ireland
from such a phenomenon.
-
## p. 2365 (#563) ###########################################
2365
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
(1755-1826)
B
RILLAT-SAVARIN was a French magistrate and legislator, whose
reputation as man of letters rests mainly upon a single
volume, his inimitable Physiologie du Goût. ' Although
writing in the present century, he was essentially a Frenchman of
the old régime, having been born in 1755 at Belley, almost on the
border-line of Savoy, where he afterwards gained distinction as an
advocate. In later life he regretted his native province chiefly for
its figpeckers, superior in his opinion to ortolans or robins, and for the
cuisine of the innkeeper Genin, where "the
old-timers of Belley used to gather to eat
chestnuts and drink the new white wine
known as vin bourru. »
After holding various minor offices in
his department, Savarin became mayor of
Belley in 1793; but the Reign of Terror
soon forced him to flee to Switzerland and
join the colony of French refugees at Lau-
sanne. Souvenirs of this period are fre-
quent in his 'Physiologie du Goût,' all
eminently gastronomic, as befits his sub-
ject-matter, but full of interest, as showing
his unfailing cheerfulness amidst the vicis-
situdes and privations of exile. He fled first to Dôle, to "obtain
from the Representative Prôt a safe-conduct, which was to save me
from going to prison and thence probably to the scaffold," and which
he ultimately owed to Madame Prôt, with whom he spent the even-
ing playing duets, and who declared, "Citizen, any one who cultivates
the fine arts as you do cannot betray his country! " It was not the
safe-conduct, however, but an unexpected dinner which he enjoyed
on his route, that made this a red-letter day to Savarin:-"What a
good dinner! -I will not give the details, but an honorable mention
is due to a fricassée of chicken, of the first order, such as cannot be
found except in the provinces, and so richly dowered with truffles
that there were enough to put new life into old Tithonus himself. "
The whole episode is told in Savarin's happiest vein, and well-
nigh justifies his somewhat complacent conclusion that "any one
who, with a revolutionary committee at his heels, could so conduct
himself, assuredly has the head and the heart of a Frenchman! "
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
## p. 2366 (#564) ###########################################
2366
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
Natural scenery did not appeal to Savarin; to him Switzerland
meant the restaurant of the Lion d'Argent, at Lausanne, where
<<< for
only 15 batz we passed in review three complete courses;" the table
d'hôte of the Rue de Rosny; and the little village of Moudon, where
the cheese fondue was so good. Circumstances, however, soon neces-
sitated his departure for the United States, which he always grate-
fully remembered as having afforded him "an asylum, employment,
and tranquillity. " For three years he supported himself in New
York, giving French lessons and at night playing in a theatre
orchestra. "I was so comfortable there," he writes, "that in the
moment of emotion which preceded departure, all that I asked of
Heaven (a prayer which it has granted) was never to know greater
sorrow in the Old World than I had known in the New. " Returning
to France in 1796, Savarin settled in Paris, and after holding several
offices under the Directory, became a Judge in the Cour de Cassation,
the French court of last resort, where he remained until his death in
1826.
-
Although an able and conscientious magistrate, Savarin was better
adapted to play the kindly friend and cordial host than the stern and
impartial judge. He was convivial soul, a lover of good cheer and
free-handed hospitality; and to-day, while almost forgotten as a jur-
ist, his name has become immortalized as the representative of gastro-
nomic excellence.
(
His Physiologie du Goût'-"that olla podrida
which defies analysis," as Balzac calls it belongs, like Walton's
'Compleat Angler,' or White's 'Selborne,' among those unique gems
of literature, too rare in any age, which owe their subtle and imper-
ishable charm primarily to the author's own delightful personality.
Savarin spent many years of loving care in polishing his manuscript,
often carrying it to court with him, where it was one day mislaid,
but luckily for future generations of epicures was afterward
recovered. The book is a charming badinage, a bizarre ragoût of
gastronomic precepts and spicy anecdote, doubly piquant for its pre-
vailing tone of mock seriousness and intentional grandiloquence.
In emulation of the poet Lamartine, Savarin divided his subject
into 'Meditations,' of which the seventh is consecrated to the
'Theory of Frying,' and the twenty-first to 'Corpulence. ' In the
familiar aphorism, "Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what
you are," he strikes his key-note; man's true superiority lies in his
palate! "The pleasure of eating we have in common with the ani-
mals; the pleasure of the table is peculiar to the human species. "
Gastronomy he proclaims the chief of all sciences: "It rules life in
its entirety; for the tears of the new-born infant summon the breast
of its nurse, and the dying man still receives with some pleasure the
final potion, which, alas, he is not destined to digest. " Occasionally
―――
## p. 2367 (#565) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2367
he affects an epic strain, invoking Gasteria, "the tenth muse, who
presides over the pleasures of taste. " "It is the fairest of the Muses
who inspires me: I will be clearer than an oracle, and my precepts
will traverse the centuries. " Beneath his pen, soup, "the first con-
solation of the needy stomach," assumes fresh dignity; and even the
humble fowl becomes to the cook "what the canvas is to the painter,
or the cap of Fortunatus to the charlatan. " But like the worthy
epicure that he was, Savarin reserved his highest flights of eloquence
for such rare and toothsome viands as the Poularde fine de Bresse,
the pheasant, "an enigma of which the key-word is known only to
the adepts," a sauté of truffles, "the diamonds of the kitchen," or,
best of all, truffled turkeys, "whose reputation and price are ever on
the increase! Benign stars, whose apparition renders the gourmands
of every category sparkling, radiant, and quivering! " But the true
charm of the book lies in Savarin's endless fund of piquant anec-
dotes, reminiscences of bygone feasts, over which the reader's mouth
waters. Who can read without a covetous pang his account of 'The
Day at Home with the Bernadins,' or of his entertainment of the
Dubois brothers, of the Rue du Bac, "a bonbon which I have put
into the reader's mouth to recompense him for his kindness in hav-
ing read me with pleasure » ?
'Physiologie du Goût' was not published until 1825, and then
anonymously, presumably because he thought its tone inconsistent
with his dignity as magistrate. It would almost seem that he had a
presentiment of impending death, for in the midst of his brightest
'Variétés he has incongruously inserted a dolorous little poem, the
burden of each verse being "Je vais mourir. " The Physiologie du
Goût' is now accessible to English readers in the versions of R. E.
Anderson (London, 1877), and in a later one published in New York;
but there is a subtle flavor to the original which defies translation.
FROM THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE
THE PRIVATIONS
F
IRST parents of the human species, whose gormandizing is
historic, you who fell for the sake of an apple, what would
you not have done for a turkey with truffles? But there
were in the terrestrial Paradise neither cooks nor confectioners.
How I pity you!
Mighty kings, who laid proud Troy in ruins, your valor will
be handed down from age to age; but your table was poor. Re-
duced to a rump of beef and a chine of pork, you were ever
## p. 2368 (#566) ###########################################
2368
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
ignorant of the charms of the matelote and the delights of a
fricassée of chicken.
*
How I pity you!
Aspasia, Chloe, and all of you whose forms the chisel of the
Greeks immortalized, to the despair of the belles of to-day, never
did your charming mouths enjoy the smoothness of a meringue
à la vanille or à la rose; hardly did you rise to the height of a
spice-cake.
How I pity you!
Gentle priestesses of Vesta, at one and the same time bur-
dened with so many honors and menaced with such horrible
punishments, would that you might at least have tasted those
agreeable syrups which refresh the soul, those candied fruits
which brave the seasons, those perfumed creams, the marvel of
our day!
How I pity you!
Roman financiers, who made the whole known universe pay
tribute, never did your far-famed banquet-halls witness the ap-
pearance of those succulent jellies, the delight of the indolent,
nor those varied ices whose cold would brave the torrid zone.
How I pity you!
Invincible paladins, celebrated by flattering minstrels, when
you had cleft in twain the giants, set free the ladies, and ex-
terminated armies, never, alas! never did a dark-eyed captive
offer you the sparkling champagne, the malmsey of Madeira, the
liqueurs, creation of this great century: you were reduced to ale
or to some cheap herb-flavored wine.
How I pity you!
Crosiered and mitred abbots, dispensers of the favors of
heaven; and you, terrible Templars, who donned your armor for
the extermination of the Saracens, -you knew not the sweetness
of chocolate which restores, nor the Arabian bean which pro-
motes thought.
-
How I pity you!
Superb châtelaines, who during the loneliness of the Crusades
raised into highest favor your chaplains and your pages, you
never could share with them the charms of the biscuit and the
delights of the macaroon.
How I pity you!
And lastly you, gastronomers of 1825, who already find satiety
in the lap of abundance. and dream of new preparations, you
## p. 2369 (#567) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2369
will not enjoy those discoveries which the sciences have in store
for the year 1900, such as esculent minerals and liqueurs result-
ing from a pressure of a hundred atmospheres; you will not
behold the importations which travelers yet unborn shall cause to
arrive from that half of the globe which still remains to be dis-
covered or explored.
How I pity you!
ON THE LOVE OF GOOD LIVING
I
HAVE Consulted the dictionaries under the word gourmandise,
and am by no means satisfied with what I find. The love
of good living seems to be constantly confounded with glut-
tony and voracity; whence I infer that our lexicographers, how-
ever otherwise estimable, are not to be classed with those good
fellows amongst learned men who can put away gracefully a
wing of partridge, and then, by raising the little finger, wash
it down with a glass of Lafitte or Clos-Vougeot.
They have utterly forgot that social love of good eating
which combines in one, Athenian elegance, Roman luxury, and
Parisian refinement. It implies discretion to arrange, skill to
prepare; it appreciates energetically, and judges profoundly.
is a precious quality, almost deserving to rank as a virtue, and
is very certainly the source of much unqualified enjoyment.
It
Gourmandise, or the love of good living, is an impassioned,
rational, and habitual preference for whatever flatters the sense
of taste. It is opposed to excess; therefore every man who eats
to indigestion, or makes himself drunk, runs the risk of being
erased from the list of its votaries. Gourmandise also comprises
a love for dainties or tit-bits; which is merely an analogous
preference, limited to light, delicate, or small dishes, to pastry,
and so forth. It is a modification allowed in favor of the
women, or men of feminine tastes.
Regarded from any point of view, the love of good living
deserves nothing but praise and encouragement. Physically, it
is the result and proof of the digestive organs being healthy and
perfect. Morally, it shows implicit resignation to the commands
of Nature, who, in ordering man to eat that he may live, gives
him appetite to invite, flavor to encourage, and pleasure to
reward.
IV-149
## p. 2370 (#568) ###########################################
2370
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
From the political economist's point of view, the love of good
living is a tie between nations, uniting them by the interchange
of various articles of food which are in constant use. Hence the
voyage from Pole to Pole of wines, sugars, fruits, and so forth.
What else sustains the hope and emulation of that crowd of
fishermen, huntsmen, gardeners, and others, who daily stock the
most sumptuous larders with the results of their skill and labor?
What else supports the industrious army of cooks, pastry-cooks,
confectioners, and many other food-preparers, with all their vari-
ous assistants? These various branches of industry derive their
support in a great measure from the largest incomes, but they
also rely upon the daily wants of all classes.
As society is at present constituted, it is almost impossible to
conceive of a race living solely on bread and vegetables. Such
a nation would infallibly be conquered by the armies of some
flesh-eating race (like the Hindoos, who have been the prey of
all those, one after another, who cared to attack them), or else
it would be converted by the cooking of the neighboring nations,
as ancient history records of the Boeotians, who acquired a love
for good living after the battle of Leuctra.
Good living opens out great resources for replenishing the
public purse: it brings contributions to town-dues, to the custom-
house, and other indirect contributions. Everything we eat is
taxed, and there is no exchequer that is not substantially sup-
ported by lovers of good living. Shall we speak of that swarm
of cooks who have for ages been annually leaving France, to
improve foreign nations in the art of good living? Most of them
succeed; and in obedience to an instinct which never dies in a
Frenchman's heart, bring back to their country the fruits of their
economy. The sum thus imported is greater than might be sup-
posed, and therefore they, like the others, will be honored by
posterity.
But if nations were grateful, then Frenchmen, above all other
races, ought to raise a temple and altars to "Gourmandise. " By
the treaty of November, 1815, the allies imposed upon France
the condition of paying thirty millions sterling in three years,
besides claims for compensation and various requisitions, amount-
ing to nearly as much more. The apprehension, or rather cer-
tainty, became general that a national bankruptcy must ensue,
more especially as the money was to be paid in specie.
## p. 2371 (#569) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2371
"Alas! " said all who had anything to lose, as they saw the
fatal tumbril pass to be filled in the Rue Vivienne, "there is our
money emigrating in a lump; next year we shall fall on our
knees before a crown-piece; we are about to fall into the condi-
tion of a ruined man; speculations of every kind will fail; it will
be impossible to borrow; there will be nothing but weakness,
exhaustion, civil death. "
These terrors were proved false by the result; and to the
great astonishment of all engaged in financial matters, the pay-
ments were made without difficulty, credit rose, loans were
eagerly caught at, and during all the time this "superpurgation »
lasted, the balance of exchange was in favor of France. In other
words, more money came into the country than went out of it.
What is the power that came to our assistance? Who is the
divinity that worked this miracle? The love of good living.
When the Britons, Germans, Teutons, Cimmerians, and Scyth-
ians made their irruption into France, they brought a rare
voracity, and stomachs of no ordinary capacity. They did not
long remain satisfied with the official cheer which a forced hos-
pitality had to supply them with. They aspired to enjoyments
of greater refinement; and soon the Queen City was nothing
but a huge refectory. Everywhere they were seen eating, those
intruders in the restaurants, the eating-houses, the inns, the
taverns, the stalls, and even in the streets. They gorged them-
selves with flesh, fish, game, truffles, pastry, and especially with
fruit. They drank with an avidity equal to their appetite, and
always ordered the most expensive wines, in the hope of finding
in them some enjoyment hitherto unknown, and seemed quite
astonished when they were disappointed. Superficial observers
did not know what to think of this menagerie without bounds or
limits; but your genuine Parisian laughed and rubbed his hands.
"We have them now! " said he; "and to-night they'll have paid
us back more than was counted out to them this morning from
the public treasury! "
―――――――
That was a lucky time for those who provide for the enjoy、
ments of the sense of taste. Véry made his fortune; Achard laid
the foundation of his; Beauvilliers made a third; and Madame
Sullot, whose shop in the Palais Royal was a mere box of a
place, sold as many as twelve thousand tarts a day.
The effect still lasts. Foreigners flow in from all quarters of
Europe to renew during peace the delightful habits which they
## p. 2372 (#570) ###########################################
2372
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
contracted during the war. They must come to Paris, and when
they are there, they must be regaled at any price. If our funds
are in favor, it is due not so much to the higher interest they
pay, as to the instinctive confidence which foreigners cannot help
placing in a people amongst whom every lover of good living
finds so much happiness.
Love of good living is by no means unbecoming in women.
It agrees with the delicacy of their organization, and serves as a
compensation for some pleasures which they are obliged to abstain
from, and for some hardships to which nature seems to have
condemned them. There is no more pleasant sight than a pretty
gourmande under arms. Her napkin is nicely adjusted; one of
her hands rests on the table, the other carries to her mouth little
morsels artistically carved, or the wing of a partridge which must
be picked. Her eyes sparkle, her lips are glossy, her talk is cheer-
ful, all her movements graceful; nor is there lacking some spice
of the coquetry which accompanies all that women do. With so
many advantages, she is irresistible, and Cato the Censor himself
could not help yielding to the influence.
The love of good living is in some sort instinctive in women,
because it is favorable to beauty. It has been proved, by a series
of rigorously exact observations, that by a succulent, delicate, and
choice regimen, the external appearances of age are kept away
for a long time. It gives more brilliancy to the eye, more fresh-
ness to the skin, more support to the muscles; and as it is certain
in physiology that wrinkles, those formidable enemies of beauty,
are caused by the depression of muscle, it is equally true that,
other things being equal, those who understand eating are com-
paratively four years younger than those ignorant of that science.
Painters and sculptors are deeply impenetrated with this truth;
for in representing those who practice abstinence by choice or
duty as misers or anchorites, they always give them the pallor
of disease, the leanness of misery, and the wrinkles of decrepitude.
Good living is one of the main links of society, by gradually
extending that spirit of conviviality by which different classes are
daily brought closer together and welded into one whole; by
animating the conversation, and rounding off the angles of con-
ventional inequality. To the same cause we can also ascribe all
the efforts a host makes to receive his guests properly, as well as
their gratitude for his pains so well bestowed. What disgrace
should ever be heaped upon those senseless feeders who, with
## p. 2373 (#571) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2373
unpardonable indifference, swallow down morsels of the rarest
quality, or gulp with unrighteous carelessness some fine-flavored
and sparkling wine.
As a general maxim: Whoever shows a desire to please will
be certain of having a delicate compliment paid him by every
well-bred man.
Again, when shared, the love of good living has the most
marked influence on the happiness of the conjugal state. A
wedded pair with this taste in common have once a day at
least a pleasant opportunity of meeting. For even when they
sleep apart (and a great many do so), they at least eat at the
same table, they have a subject of conversation which is ever
new, they speak not only of what they are eating, but also of
what they have eaten or will eat, of dishes which are in vogue,
of novelties, etc. Everybody knows that a familiar chat is
delightful.
Music, no doubt, has powerful attractions for those who are
fond of it, but one must set about it—it is an exertion. Be-
sides, one sometimes has a cold, the music is mislaid, the instru-
ments are out of tune, one has a fit of the blues, or it is a
forbidden day.
Whereas, in the other case, a common want
summons the spouses to table, the same inclination keeps them
there; they naturally show each other these little attentions as a
proof of their wish to oblige, and the mode of conducting their
meals has a great share in the happiness of their lives.
This observation, though new in France, has not escaped the
notice of Richardson, the English moralist. He has worked out
the idea in his novel 'Pamela,' by painting the different manner
in which two married couples finish their day. The first husband
is a lord, an eldest son, and therefore heir to all the family prop-
erty; the second is his younger brother, the husband of Pamela,
who has been disinherited on account of his marriage, and lives
on half-pay in a state but little removed from abject poverty.
The lord and lady enter their dining-room by different doors,
and salute each other coldly, though they have not met the whole
day before. Sitting down at a table which is magnificently cov-
ered, surrounded by lackeys in brilliant liveries, they help them-
selves in silence, and eat without pleasure. As soon, however,
as the servants have withdrawn, a sort of conversation is begun
between the pair, which quickly shows a bitter tone, passing into
a regular fight, and they rise from the table in a fury of anger,
## p. 2374 (#572) ###########################################
2374
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
and go off to their separate apartments to reflect upon the pleas-
ures of a single life.
The younger brother, on the contrary, is, on reaching his
unpretentious home, received with a gentle, loving heartiness and
the fondest caresses. He sits down to a frugal meal, but every-
thing he eats is excellent; and how could it be otherwise? It is
Pamela herself who has prepared it all. They eat with enjoy-
ment, talking of their affairs, their plans, their love for each
other. A half-bottle of Madeira serves to prolong their repast
and conversation, and soon after they retire together, to forget
in sleep their present hardships, and to dream of a better future.
All honor to the love of good living, such as it is the pur-
pose of this book to describe, so long as it does not come
between men and their occupations or duties! For, as all the
debaucheries of a Sardanapalus cannot bring disrespect upon
womankind in general, so the excesses of a Vitellius need not
make us turn our backs upon a well-appointed banquet. Should
the love of good living pass into gluttony, voracity, intemper-
ance, it then loses its name and advantages, escapes from our
jurisdiction, and falls within that of the moralist to ply it with
good counsel, or of the physician who will cure it by his
remedies.
ON PEOPLE FOND OF GOOD LIVING
THERE are individuals to whom nature has denied a refine-
ment of organs, or a continuity of attention, without which the
most succulent dishes pass unobserved. Physiology has already
recognized the first of these varieties, by showing us the tongue
of these unhappy ones, badly furnished with nerves for inhaling
and appreciating flavors. These excite in them but an obtuse
sentiment; such persons are, with regard to objects of taste, what
the blind are with regard to light. The second class are the
absent-minded, chatterboxes, persons engrossed in business or
ambition, and others who seek to occupy themselves with two
things at once, and eat only to be filled. Such, for example,
was Napoleon; he was irregular in his meals, and ate fast and
badly. But there again was to be traced that absolute will which
he carried into everything he did. The moment appetite was
felt, it was necessary that it should be satisfied; and his estab-
lishment was so arranged that, in any place and at any hour,
chicken, cutlets, and coffee might be forthcoming at a word.
## p. 2375 (#573) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2375
There is a privileged class of persons who are summoned to
the enjoyments of taste by a physical and organic predisposition.
I have always believed in physiognomy and phrenology. Men
have inborn tendencies; and since there are some who come into
the world seeing, hearing, and walking badly, because they are
short-sighted, deaf, or crippled, why should there not be others.
who are specially predisposed to experience a certain series of
sensations? Moreover, even an ordinary observer will constantly
discover faces which bear the unmistakable imprint of a ruling
passion such as superciliousness, self-satisfaction, misanthropy,
sensuality, and many others. Sometimes, no doubt, we meet
with a face that expresses nothing; but when the physiognomy
has a marked stamp it is almost always a true index. The pas-
sions act upon the muscles, and frequently, although a man says
nothing, the various feelings by which he is moved can be read
in his face. By this tension, if in the slightest degree habitual,
perceptible traces are at last left, and the physiognomy thus
assumes its permanent and recognizable characteristics.
-
Those predisposed to epicurism are for the most part of mid-
dling height. They are broad-faced, and have bright eyes,
small forehead, short nose, fleshy lips, and rounded chin. The
women are plump, chubby, pretty rather than beautiful, with a
slight tendency to fullness of figure. It is under such an exterior
that we must look for agreeable guests. They accept all that is
offered them, eat without hurry, and taste with discrimination.
They never make any haste to get away from houses where they
have been well treated, but stay for the evening, because they
know all the games and other after-dinner amusements.
Those, on the contrary, to whom nature has denied an apti-
tude for the enjoyments of taste, are long-faced, long-nosed, and
long-eyed: whatever their stature, they have something lanky
about them. They have dark, lanky hair, and are never in good
condition. It was one of them who invented trousers. The
women whom nature has afflicted with the same misfortune are
angular, feel themselves bored at table, and live on cards and
scandal.
This theory of mine can be verified by each reader from his
own personal observation. I shall give an instance from my own
personal experience:-
Sitting one day at a grand banquet, I had opposite me a
very pretty neighbor, whose face showed the predisposition I
## p. 2376 (#574) ###########################################
2376
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
have described. Leaning to the guest beside me, I said quietly
that from her physiognomy, the young lady on the other side of
the table must be fond of good eating. "You must be mad! "
he answered; "she is but fifteen at most, which is certainly not
the age for such a thing. However, let us watch. "
At first, things were by no means in my favor, and I was
somewhat afraid of having compromised myself, for during the
first two courses the young lady quite astonished me by her dis-
cretion, and I suspected we had stumbled upon an exception,
remembering that there are some for every rule. But at last
the dessert came,-a dessert both magnificent and abundant,-
and my hopes were again revived. Nor did I hope in vain: not
only did she eat of all that was offered her, but she even got
dishes brought to her from the farthest parts of the table.
In a
word, she tasted everything, and my neighbor at last expressed
his astonishment that the little stomach could hold so many
things. Thus was my diagnosis verified, and once again science
triumphed.
-
Whilst I was writing the above, on a fine winter's evening,
M. Cartier, formerly the first violinist at the Opera, paid me a
visit, and sat down at the fireside. Being full of my subject, I
said, after looking at him attentively for some time, "How does
it happen, my dear professor, that you are no epicure, when you
have all the features of one? " "I was one," he replied, "and
among the foremost; but now I refrain. " "On principle, I sup-
pose? " said I; but all the answer I had was a sigh, like one of
Sir Walter Scott's- that is to say, almost a groan.
As some are gourmands by predestination, so others become
so by their state in society or their calling. There are four
classes which I should signalize by way of eminence: the mon-
eyed class, the doctors, men of letters, and the devout.
Inequality of condition implies inequality of wealth, but in-
equality of wealth docs not imply inequality of wants; and he
who can afford every day a dinner sufficient for a hundred per-
sons is often satisfied by eating the thigh of a chicken. Hence
the necessity for the many devices of art to reanimate that ghost
of an appetite by dishes which maintain it without injury, and
caress without stifling it.
The causes which act upon doctors are very different, though
not less powerful. They become epicures in spite of themselves,
and must be made of bronze to resist the seductive power of
## p. 2377 (#575) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2377
circumstances. The "dear doctor" is all the more kindly wel-
comed that health is the most precious of boons; and thus they
are always waited for with impatience and received with eager-
Some are kind to them from hope, others from gratitude.
They are fed like pet pigeons. They let things take their course,
and in six months the habit is confirmed, and they are gour-
mands past redemption.
ness.
I ventured one day to express this opinion at a banquet in
which, with eight others, I took a part, with Dr. Corvisart at the
head of the table. It was about the year 1806.
"You! " cried I, with the inspired tone of a Puritan preacher;
«< you are the last remnant of a body which formerly covered the
whole of France. Alas! its members are annihilated or widely
scattered. No more fermiers-généraux, no abbés nor knights nor
white-coated friars. The members of your profession constitute
the whole gastronomic body. Sustain with firmness that great
responsibility, even if you must share the fate of the three hun-
dred Spartans at the Pass of Thermopyla. "
At the same dinner I observed the following noteworthy fact.
The doctor, who, when in the mood, was a most agreeable com-
panion, drank nothing but iced champagne; and therefore in the
earlier part of the dinner, whilst others were engaged in eating,
he kept talking loudly and telling stories. But at dessert, on
the contrary, and when the general conversation began to be
lively, he became serious, silent, and sometimes low-spirited.
From this observation, confirmed by many others, I have
deduced the following theorem: — "Champagne, though at first
exhilarating, ultimately produces stupefying effects;" a result,
moreover, which is a well-known characteristic of the carbonic
acid which it contains.
Whilst I have the university doctors under my grasp, I must,
before I die, reproach them with the extreme severity which
they use towards their patients. As soon as one has the misfor-
tune to fall into their hands, he must undergo a whole litany of
prohibitions, and give up everything that he is accustomed to
think agreeable. I rise up to oppose such interdictions, as being
for the most part useless. I say useless, because the patient
never longs for what is hurtful. A doctor of judgment will never
lose sight of the instinctive tendency of our inclinations, or forget
that if painful sensations are naturally fraught with danger, those
which are pleasant have a healthy tendency. We have seen a
## p. 2378 (#576) ###########################################
2378
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
drop of wine, a cup of coffee, or a thimbleful of liqueur, call up
a smile to the most Hippocratic face.
Those severe prescribers must, moreover, know very well that
their prescriptions remain almost always without result. The
patient tries to evade the duty of taking them; those about him
easily find a good excuse for humoring him, and thus his death.
is neither hastened nor retarded. In 1815 the medical allowance of
a sick Russian would have made a drayman drunk, and that
of an Englishman was enough for a Limousin.
Nor was any
diminution possible, for there were military inspectors constantly
going round our hospitals to examine the supply and the con-
sumption.
I am the more confident in announcing my opinion because it
is based upon numerous facts, and the most successful practi-
tioners have used a system closely resembling it.
Canon Rollet, who died some fifty years ago, was a hard
drinker, according to the custom of those days. He fell ill, and
the doctor's first words were a prohibition of wine in any form.
On his very next visit, however, our physician found beside the
bed of his patient the corpus delicti itself, to wit, a table covered
with a snow-white cloth, a crystal cup, a handsome-looking bottle,
and a napkin to wipe the lips. At this sight he flew into a vio-
lent passion and spoke of leaving the house, when the wretched
canon cried to him in tones of lamentation, "Ah, doctor, remem-
ber that in forbidding me to drink, you have not forbidden me
the pleasure of looking at the bottle! "
The physician who treated Montlusin of Pont de Veyle was
still more severe, for not only did he forbid the use of wine to
his patient, but also prescribed large doses of water. Shortly
after the doctor's departure, Madame Montlusin, anxious to give
full effect to the medical orders and assist in the recovery of her
husband's health, offered him a large glass of the finest and
clearest water. The patient took it with docility, and began to
drink it with resignation; but stopping short at the first mouth-
ful, he handed back the glass to his wife. "Take it, my dear,"
said he, "and keep it for another time; I have always heard it
said that we should not trifle with remedies. "
In the domain of gastronomy the men of letters are near
neighbors to the doctors. A hundred years ago literary men
were all hard drinkers. They followed the fashion, and the
memoirs of the period are quite edifying on that subject. At
## p. 2379 (#577) ###########################################
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
2379
the present day they are gastronomes, and it is a step in the
right direction. I by no means agree with the cynical Geoffroy,
who used to say that if our modern writings are weak, it is be-
cause literary men now drink nothing stronger than lemonade.
The present age is rich in talents, and the very number of books
probably interferes with their proper appreciation; but posterity,
being more calm and judicial, will see amongst them much to
admire, just as we ourselves have done justice to the master-
pieces of Racine and Molière, which were received by their con-
temporaries with coldness.
Never has the social position of men of letters been more
pleasant than at present. They no longer live in wretched gar-
rets; the fields of literature are become more fertile, and even
the study of the Muses has become productive. Received on an
equality in any rank of life, they no longer wait for patronage;
and to fill up their cup of happiness, good living bestows upon
them its dearest favors. Men of letters are invited because of
the good opinion men have of their talents; because their con-
versation has, generally speaking, something piquant in it, and
also because now every dinner-party must as a matter of course
have its literary man.
Those gentlemen always arrive a little late, but are welcomed,
because expected. They are treated as favorites so that they
may come again, and regaled that they may shine; and as they
find all this very natural, by being accustomed to it they become,
are, and remain gastronomes.
Finally, amongst the most faithful in the ranks of gastronomy
we must reckon many of the devout-i. e. , those spoken of by
Louis XIV. and Molière, whose religion consists in outward show;
-nothing to do with those who are really pious and charitable.
Let us consider how this comes about. Of those who wish to
secure their salvation, the greater number try to find the most
pleasant road. Men who flee from society, sleep on the ground,
and wear hair-cloth next the skin, have always been, and must
ever be, exceptions. Now there are certain things unquestionably
to be condemned, and on no account to be indulged in-as balls,
theatres, gambling, and other similar amusements; and whilst
they and all that practice them are to be hated, good living
presents itself insinuatingly in a thoroughly orthodox guise.
By right divine, man is king of nature, and all that the earth
produces was created for him. It is for him that the quail is
## p. 2380 (#578) ###########################################
2380
BRILLAT-SAVARIN
fattened, for him that Mocha possesses so agreeable an aroma,
for him that sugar has such wholesome properties. How then
neglect to use, within reasonable limits, the good things which
Providence presents to us; especially if we continue to regard
them as things that perish with the using, especially if they raise
our thankfulness towards the Author of all!
Other equally strong reasons come to strengthen these. Can
we be too hospitable in receiving those who have charge of our
souls, and keep us in the way of safety? Should those meetings.
with so excellent an object not be made pleasant, and therefore
frequent?
Sometimes, also, the gifts of Comus arrive unsought-perhaps
a souvenir of college days, a present from an old friend, a peace-
offering from a penitent or a college chum recalling himself to
one's memory. How refuse to accept such offerings, or to make
systematic use of them? It is simply a necessity.
The monasteries were real magazines of charming dainties,
which is one reason why certain connoisseurs so bitterly regret
them. Several of the monastic orders, especially that of St.
Bernard, made a profession of good cheer. The limits of gastro-
nomic art have been extended by the cooks of the clergy, and
when M. de Pressigni (afterwards Archbishop of Besançon) re-
turned from the Conclave at the election of Pius VI. , he said
that the best dinner he had had in Rome was at the table of the
head of the Capuchins.
We cannot conclude this article better than by honorably
mentioning two classes of men whom we have seen in all their
glory, and whom the Revolution has eclipsed-the chevaliers and
the abbés. How they enjoyed good living, those dear old fellows!
That could be told at a glance by their nervous nostrils, their
clear eyes, their moist lips and mobile tongues. Each class had
at the same time its own special manner of eating: the chevalier
having something military and dignified in his air and attitude;
while the abbé gathered himself together, as it were, to be nearer
his plate, with his right hand curved inward like the paw of a
cat drawing chestnuts from the fire, whilst in every feature was
shown enjoyment and an indefinable look of close attention.
So far from good living being hurtful to health, it has been
arithmetically proved by Dr. Villermé in an able paper read
before the Académie des Sciences, that other things being equal,
the gourmands live longer than ordinary men.
## p. 2380 (#579) ###########################################
## p. 2380 (#580) ###########################################
CHARLOTTE BRONTE.
W. Grosch
## p. 2380 (#581) ###########################################
2381
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CHARLOTTE BRONTE AND HER SISTERS
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## p. 2380 (#582) ###########################################
## p. 2381 (#583) ###########################################
2381
CHARLOTTE BRONTÉ AND HER SISTERS
(1816-1855)
HE least that can be said of Charlotte Bronté is that she
is a unique figure in literature. Nowhere else do we find
another personality combining such extraordinary qualities
of mind and heart,- qualities strangely contrasted, but still more
strangely harmonized. At times they are baffling, but always fasci-
nating. Nowhere else do we find so intimate an association of the
personality of the author with the work, so thorough an identifica-
tion with it of the author's life, even to the smaller details. So true
is this in the case of Charlotte Bronté that the four novels 'Jane
Eyre,' 'Shirley,' 'Villette,' and 'The Professor' might with some
justice be termed 'Charlotte Bronté; her life and her friends. ' Her
works were in large part an expression of herself; at times the best
expression of herself-of her actual self in experience and of her
spiritual self in travail and in aspiration. It is manifestly impossible
therefore to consider the works of Charlotte Bronté with justice apart
from herself. A correct understanding of her books can be obtained
only from a study of her remarkable personality and of the sad cir-
cumstances of her life.
Public interest in Charlotte Bronté was first roused in 1847. In
October of that year there appeared in London a novel that created
a sensation, the like of which had not been known since the publi-
cation of 'Waverley. ' Its stern and paradoxical disregard for the con-
ventional, its masculine energy, and its intense realism, startled the
public, and proclaimed to all in accents unmistakable that a new,
strange, and splendid power had come into literature, "but yet a
woman. "
And with the success of 'Jane Eyre' came a lively curiosity to
know something of the personality of the author. This was not
gratified for some time. There were many conjectures, all of them
far amiss. The majority of readers asserted confidently that the
work must be that of a man: the touch was unmistakably mascu-
line. In some quarters it met with hearty abuse. The Quarterly
Review, in an article still notorious for its brutality, condemned the
book as coarse, and stated that if 'Jane Eyre' were really written by
a woman, she must be an improper woman, who had forfeited the
society of her sex. This was said in December, 1848, of one of the
noblest and purest of womankind. It is not a matter of surprise that
## p. 2382 (#584) ###########################################
2382
BRONTÉ SISTERS
the identity of this audacious speculator was not revealed. The
recent examination into the topic by Mr. Clement Shorter seems,
however, to fix the authorship of the notice on Lady Eastlake, at
that time Miss Driggs.
