The facts related of Amulius and his brother
Numitor, some of which are fictitious, while others approach nearer the
truth, occurred four hundred years later.
Numitor, some of which are fictitious, while others approach nearer the
truth, occurred four hundred years later.
Strabo
Their pitch-works are amazing, and
their casks give evidence of the abundance of wine: these are made of
wood, and are larger than houses, and the great supply of pitch allows
them to be sold cheap. The soft wool and by far the best is produced in
the country round Mutina[1672] and the river Panaro;[1673] while the
coarse wool, which forms the main article of clothing amongst the slaves
in Italy, is produced in Liguria and the country of the Symbri. There is
a middling kind grown about Patavium,[1674] of which the finer carpets,
gausapi,[1675] and every thing else of the same sort, whether with the
wool on one or on both sides, are made. The mines are not worked now so
diligently, because not equally profitable with those of Transalpine
Keltica and Iberia; but formerly they must have been, since there were
gold-diggings even in Vercelli, near to Ictimuli,[1676] both which
villages are near to Placentia. [1677] Here we finish our description of
the first part of Italy, and pass on to the second.
CHAPTER II.
1. In the second place, we shall treat of that portion of Liguria
situated in the Apennines, between the Keltica[1678] already described
and Tyrrhenia. There is nothing worth mentioning about it, except that
the people dwell in villages, ploughing and digging the intractable
land, or rather, as Posidonius expresses it, hewing the rocks.
The third division contains the Tyrrhenians, who dwell next the former,
and inhabit the plains extending to the Tiber, which river, as far as
its outlet, washes the side towards the east, the opposite side being
washed by the Tyrrhenian and Sardinian sea. The Tiber flows from the
Apennines, and is swelled by many rivers; it flows partly through
Tyrrhenia, dividing it in the first instance from Ombrica,[1679]
afterwards from the Sabini and the Latini, who are situated next Rome as
far as the sea-coast; so that these countries are bounded in their
breadth by the river [Tiber] and the Tyrrhenians, and in their length by
each other. They extend upwards towards the Apennines which approach the
Adriatic. The first[1680] are the Ombrici, after these the Sabini, and
finally the inhabitants of Latium. They all commence from the river. The
country of the Latini extends on one side along the sea-coast from Ostia
to the city of Sinuessa, on the other it is bounded by the land of the
Sabini, (Ostia is the port of Rome, through which the Tiber passes in
its course,) it [CAS. 219] extends in length as far as Campania and the
Samnitic mountains. The country of the Sabini lies between the Latini
and the Ombrici, it likewise extends to the Samnitic mountains, but
approaches nearer to the Apennines inhabited by the Vestini, the
Peligni, and the Marsi. The Ombrici lie between the country of the
Sabini and Tyrrhenia, but extend beyond the mountains as far as
Ariminum,[1681] and Ravenna. The Tyrrheni, commencing from their own sea
and the Tiber, extend to the circular chain of mountains which stretches
from Liguria to the Adriatic. We will now enter into a detailed account,
commencing with these.
2. The Tyrrheni have now received from the Romans the surname of Etrusci
and Tusci. The Greeks thus named them from Tyrrhenus the son of Atys, as
they say, who sent hither a colony from Lydia. Atys, who was one of the
descendants of Hercules and Omphale, and had two sons, in a time of
famine and scarcity determined by lot that Lydus should remain in the
country, but that Tyrrhenus, with the greater part of the people, should
depart. Arriving here, he named the country after himself, Tyrrhenia,
and founded twelve cities, having appointed as their governor Tarcon,
from whom the city of Tarquinia [received its name], and who, on account
of the sagacity which he had displayed from childhood, was feigned to
have been born with hoary hair. Placed originally under one authority,
they became flourishing; but it seems that in after-times, their
confederation being broken up and each city separated, they yielded to
the violence of the neighbouring tribes. Otherwise they would never have
abandoned a fertile country for a life of piracy on the sea, roving from
one ocean to another; since, when united they were able not only to
repel those who assailed them, but to act on the offensive, and
undertake long campaigns. After the foundation of Rome, Demaratus
arrived here, bringing with him people from Corinth. [1682] He was
received at Tarquinia, where he had a son, named Lucumo, by a woman of
that country. [1683] Lucumo becoming the friend of Ancus Marcius, king
of the Romans, succeeded him on the throne, and assumed the name of
Lucius Tarquinius Priscus. Both he and his father did much for the
embellishment of Tyrrhenia, the one by means of the numerous artists who
had followed him from their native country; the other having the
resources of Rome. [1684] It is said that the triumphal costume of the
consuls, as well as that of the other magistrates, was introduced from
the Tarquinii, with the fasces, axes, trumpets, sacrifices, divination,
and music employed by the Romans in their public ceremonies. His son,
the second Tarquin, named Superbus, who was driven from his throne, was
the last king [of Rome]. Porsena, king of Clusium,[1685] a city of
Tyrrhenia, endeavoured to replace him on the throne by force of arms,
but not being able he made peace[1686] with the Romans, and departed in
a friendly way, with honour and loaded with gifts.
3. Such are the facts concerning the celebrity of the Tyrrheni, to which
may be added the exploits of the Cæretani,[1687] who defeated the Galatæ
after they had taken Rome. Having attacked them as they were departing
through the country of the Sabini, they took from them, much against
their will, the ransom which the Romans had willingly paid to them;
besides this, they took under their protection those who fled to them
out of Rome, the sacred fire and the priestesses of Vesta. [1688] The
Romans, influenced by those who then misgoverned the city, seem not to
have been properly mindful of this service; for although they conferred
on them the rights of citizenship, they did not enrol them amongst the
citizens; and further, they inscribed upon the same roll with the
Cæretani, others who did not enjoy as great privileges as they did.
However, [CAS. 220] amongst the Greeks this city was highly esteemed
both for its bravery and rectitude of conduct; for they refrained from
piracy, with favourable opportunities for engaging in it, and dedicated
at Delphi the treasure, as it was called, of the Agyllæi; for their
country was formerly named Agylla, though now Cærea. It is said to have
been founded by Pelasgi from Thessaly. The Lydians, who had taken the
name of Tyrrheni, having engaged in war against the Agyllæi, one of
them, approaching the wall, inquired the name of the city; when one of
the Thessalians from the wall, instead of answering the question,
saluted him with χαῖρε. [1689] The Tyrrheni received this as an omen, and
having taken the city they changed its name. This city, once so
flourishing and celebrated, only preserves the traces [of its former
greatness]; the neighbouring hot springs, named Cæretana,[1690] being
more frequented than it, by the people attracted thither for the sake of
their health.
4. Almost every one is agreed that the Pelasgi were an ancient race
spread throughout the whole of Greece, but especially in the country of
the Æolians near to Thessaly. Ephorus, however, says that he considers
they were originally Arcadians, who had taken up a warlike mode of life;
and having persuaded many others to the same course, imparted their own
name to the whole, and became famous both among the Greeks, and in every
other country where they chanced to come. Homer informs us that there
were colonies of them in Crete, for he makes Ulysses say to Penelope—
“Diverse their language is; Achaians some,
And some indigenous are; Cydonians there,
Crest-shaking Dorians, and Pelasgians dwell. ”[1691]
And that portion of Thessaly between the outlets of the Peneius[1692]
and the Thermopylæ, as far as the mountains of Pindus, is named Pelasgic
Argos, the district having formerly belonged to the Pelasgi. The poet
himself also gives to Dodonæan Jupiter, the epithet of Pelasgian:—
“Pelasgian, Dodonæan Jove supreme. ”[1693]
Many have likewise asserted that the nations of the Epirus are Pelasgic,
because the dominions of the Pelasgi extended so far. And, as many of
the heroes have been named Pelasgi, later writers have applied the same
name to the nations over which they were the chiefs. Thus Lesbos[1694]
has been called Pelasgic, and Homer has called the people bordering on
the Cilices in the Troad Pelasgic:—
“Hippothous from Larissa, for her soil
Far-famed, the spear-expert Pelasgians brought. ”[1695]
Ephorus, when he supposes that they were a tribe of Arcadians, follows
Hesiod, who says,
“The sons born of the divine Lycaon, whom formerly Pelasgus
begot. ”
Likewise Æschylus in his Suppliants, or Danaids, makes their race to be
of Argos near Mycenæ. Ephorus likewise says that Peloponnesus was named
Pelasgia; and Euripides, in the Archelaus, says,
“Danaus, who was the father of fifty daughters, having arrived in
Argos, inhabited[1696] the city of Inachus, and made a law that
those who had before borne the name of Pelasgiotæ throughout
Greece should be called Danai. ”
Anticlides says, that they first colonized about Lemnos and Imbros, and
that some of their number passed into Italy with Tyrrhenus, the son of
Atys. And the writers on the Athenian Antiquities,[1697] relate of the
Pelasgi, that some of them came to Athens, where, on account of their
wanderings, and their settling like birds in any place where they
chanced to come, they were called by the Athenians _Pelargi_. [1698]
5. They say that the greatest length of Tyrrhenia, which is along the
coast from Luna to Ostia, is about 2500 stadia; and that its breadth in
the direction of the mountains is less than half that number. Then from
Luna to Pisa there are more than 400 stadia; from thence to
Volaterræ[1699] 280; thence to [CAS. 222] Poplonium 270; and from
Poplonium to Cossa[1700] near 800, or as some say, 600. Polybius,
however, says that there are not[1701] in all 1330. [1702] Of these Luna
is a city and harbour; it is named by the Greeks, the harbour and city
of Selene. [1703] The city is not large, but the harbour[1704] is very
fine and spacious, containing in itself numerous harbours, all of them
deep near the shore; it is in fact an arsenal worthy of a nation holding
dominion for so long a time over so vast a sea. The harbour is
surrounded by lofty mountains,[1705] from whence you may view the
sea[1706] and Sardinia, and a great part of the coast on either side.
Here are quarries of marble, both white and marked with green, so
numerous and large, as to furnish tablets and columns of one block; and
most of the material for the fine works, both in Rome and the other
cities, is furnished from hence. The transport of the marble is easy, as
the quarries lie near to the sea, and from the sea they are conveyed by
the Tiber. Tyrrhenia likewise supplies most of the straightest and
longest planks for building, as they are brought direct from the
mountains to the river. Between Luna and Pisa flows the Macra,[1707] a
division which many writers consider the true boundary of Tyrrhenia and
Liguria. Pisa was founded by the Pisatæ of the Peloponnesus, who went
under Nestor to the expedition against Troy, but in their voyage home
wandered out of their course, some to Metapontium,[1708] others to the
Pisatis; they were, however, all called Pylians. The city lies between
the two rivers Arno[1709] and Æsar,[1710] at their point of confluence;
the former of which, though very full, descends from Arretium[1711] not
in one body, but divided into three; the second flows down from the
Apennines. Where they fall into one current, the shock between them is
so great as to raise the water to that height, that people standing on
either bank are not able to see each other; so that necessarily the
voyage up from the sea is difficult. This voyage is about 20 stadia.
There is a tradition, that when these rivers first descended from the
mountains they were impeded by the inhabitants of the district, lest
falling together they should inundate the country; however, they
promised not to inundate it, and they have kept their word. This city
appears to have been formerly flourishing, and at the present day it
still maintains its name, on account of its fertility, its
marble-quarries, and its wood for building ships, which formerly they
employed to preserve themselves from danger by sea; for they were more
warlike than the Tyrrheni, and were constantly irritated by the
Ligurians, troublesome neighbours, who dwelt on the coast. At the
present day the wood is mostly employed for building houses in Rome, and
in the country villas [of the Romans], which resemble in their
gorgeousness Persian palaces.
6. The country of the Volaterrani[1712] is washed by the sea. Their city
is situated in a deep hollow on the top of a high hill. The wall of the
city is built round its summit, which is flat and precipitous on every
side. From its base, the ascent upward is fifteen stadia, steep and
difficult. Here certain of the Tyrrhenians and of those proscribed by
Sulla,[1713] took their stand, and having organized four bands,
sustained a siege for two years, and at last secured articles of truce
before surrendering the place. Poplonium is situated on a lofty
promontory, which projects into the sea, and forms a chersonesus. It
likewise sustained a siege about the same time. This little place is now
deserted, with the exception of the temples and a few houses; the
sea-port, which is situated at the root of the mountain, is better
inhabited, having both a small harbour and ship-sheds. This appears to
me the only one of the ancient Tyrrhenian cities situated on the sea;
the reason being that this territory affords no harbours. The founders
[of the cities] therefore either avoided the sea altogether, or threw up
fortifications in order that they might not become the ready prey of
those who might sail against them. On the [CAS. 223] summit [of the
cape] there is a look-out for thunnies. [1714] From this city there is an
indistinct and distant view of Sardinia. Cyrnus,[1715] however, is
nearer, being distant from Sardinia about 60 stadia. While Æthalia[1716]
is much nearer to the continent than either, being distant therefrom
only 300[1717] stadia, and the same number from Cyrnus. Poplonium is the
best starting-place to any of the three mentioned islands. We ourselves
observed them from the height of Poplonium, in which place we saw
certain mines which had been abandoned, we also saw the craftsmen who
work the iron brought from Æthalia; for they cannot reduce it into bars
in the furnaces on the island, and it is therefore transferred direct
from the mines to the continent. There is another remarkable
circumstance, that the exhausted mines of the island in course of time
are again refilled similarly to what they say takes place at the
_platamones_[1718] in Rhodes, the marble-quarries in Paros, and the
salt-mines in India, mentioned by Clitarchus. Eratosthenes was therefore
incorrect in saying that from the mainland you could neither see Cyrnus
nor Sardinia; and so was Artemidorus in his assertion, that both these
places lay in the high sea at a distance of 1200 stadia. For whatever
others might, I certainly could never have seen them at such a distance,
however carefully I had looked, particularly Cyrnus. Æthalia has a
harbour named Argoüs,[1719] derived, as they say, from the [ship] Argo,
Jason having sailed hither, seeking the abode of Circe as Medea wished
to see that goddess; and that from the sweat scraped off by the
Argonauts and hardened, are formed the variegated pebbles now seen on
the beach. [1720] This and similar traditions prove what we before
stated, that Homer did not invent them all himself, but, hearing the
numerous current stories, he merely transferred the scenes to other
localities and exaggerated the distances: as he makes Ulysses wander
over the ocean, so does he narrate of Jason, as he too had been renowned
for his travels: and the same he likewise relates of Menelaus. This is
what we have to say of Æthalia.
7. Cyrnus is called by the Romans Corsica; it is poorly inhabited, being
both rugged and in many parts entirely inaccessible, so that the
mountaineers, who live by plunder, are more savage than wild beasts.
Whenever any Roman general invades the country, and, penetrating into
the wilds, seizes a vast number of slaves, it is a marvel to behold in
Rome how savage and bestial they appear. For they either scorn to live,
or if they do live, aggravate their purchasers by their apathy and
insensibility, causing them to regret the purchase-money, however
small. [1721] We must remark, however, that some districts are habitable,
and that there are some small cities, for instance Blesino, Charax,
Eniconiæ, and Vapanes. [1722] The chorographer[1723] says that the length
of this island is 160 miles, its breadth 70; that the length of Sardinia
is 220, and its breadth 98. According to others, the perimeter of Cyrnus
is said to be about 1200[1724] stadia, and of Sardinia 4000. A great
portion of this latter is rugged and untranquil; another large portion
is fertile in every production, but particularly in wheat. There are
many cities, some are considerable, as Caralis[1725] and Sulchi. [1726]
There is however an evil, which must be set against the fertility of
these places; for during the summer the island is unhealthy, more
particularly so in the most fertile districts; in addition to this, it
is often ravaged by the mountaineers, whom they call Diagesbes,[1727]
who formerly were named Iolaënses. For it is said that Iolaus[1728]
brought hither certain of the children of Hercules, and established
himself amongst the barbarian [CAS. 225] possessors of the island, who
were Tyrrhenians. Afterwards the Phœnicians of Carthage became masters
of the island, and, assisted by the inhabitants, carried on war against
the Romans; but after the subversion of the Carthaginians, the Romans
became masters of the whole. There are four nations of mountaineers, the
Parati, Sossinati, Balari, and the Aconites. These people dwell in
caverns. Although they have some arable land, they neglect its
cultivation, preferring rather to plunder what they find cultivated by
others, whether on the island or on the continent, where they make
descents, especially upon the Pisatæ. The prefects sent [into Sardinia]
sometimes resist them, but at other times leave them alone, since it
would cost too dear to maintain an army always on foot in an unhealthy
place: they have, however, recourse to the arts of stratagem, and taking
advantage of the custom of the barbarians, who always hold a great
festival for several days after returning from a plundering expedition,
they then fall upon them, and capture many. There are rams here which,
instead of wool, have hair resembling that of a goat; they are called
musmones, and the inhabitants make corselets of their hides. They
likewise arm themselves with a pelta and a small sword.
8. Along the whole coast between Poplonium and Pisa these islands are
clearly visible; they are oblong, and all three nearly parallel,[1729]
running towards the south and Libya. Æthalia is by far smaller than
either of the other two. The chorographer says that the shortest passage
from Libya to Sardinia is 300[1730] miles. After Poplonium is the city
of Cossæ, situated at a short distance from the sea: there is at the
head of the bay a high hill upon which it is built; below it lies the
port of Hercules,[1731] and near to it a marsh formed by the sea. [1732]
At the summit of the cape which commands the gulf is a look-out for
thunnies; for the thunny pursues his course along the coast, from the
Atlantic Ocean as far as Sicily, in search not only of acorns, but also
of the fish which furnishes the purple dye. As one sails along the coast
from Cossæ to Ostia there are the towns of Gravisci,[1733] Pyrgi,[1734]
Alsium,[1735] and Fregena. [1736] [From Cossæ] to Gravisci is a distance
of 300 stadia, and between them is the place named Regis-Villa. This is
said to have been the royal residence of Maleos the Pelasgian; they
report that after he had reigned here for some time, he departed with
his Pelasgians to Athens. These were of the same tribe as those who
occupied Agylla. From Gravisci to Pyrgi is a little less than 180
stadia, and the sea-port town of the Cæretani is 30 stadia farther.
[Pyrgi] contains a temple of Ilethyia[1737] founded by the Pelasgi, and
which was formerly rich, but it was plundered by Dionysius the tyrant of
the Sicilians, at the time[1738] of his voyage to Cyrnus. [1739] From
Pyrgi to Ostia is 260 stadia; between the two are Alsium and Fregena.
Such is our account of the coast of Tyrrhenia.
9. In the interior of the country, besides the cities already mentioned,
there are Arretium,[1740] Perusia,[1741] Volsinii,[1742] Sutrium;[1743]
and in addition to these are numerous small cities, as Blera,[1744]
Ferentinum,[1745] Falerium,[1746] Faliscum,[1747] Nepita,[1748]
Statonia,[1749] and many others; some of which exist in their original
state, others have been colonized by the Romans, or partially ruined by
them in their wars, viz. those they frequently waged against the
Veii[1750] and the Fidenæ. [1751] Some say that the inhabitants of
Falerium are not Tyrrhenians, but Falisci, a distinct nation; others
state further, that the Falisci speak a language peculiar to themselves;
some again would make it Æquum-Faliscum on [CAS. 226] the Via Flaminia,
lying between Ocricli[1752] and Rome. Below Mount Soracte[1753] is the
city of Feronia, having the same name as a certain goddess of the
country, highly reverenced by the surrounding people: here is her
temple, in which a remarkable ceremony is performed, for those possessed
by the divinity pass over a large bed of burning coal and ashes
barefoot, unhurt. A great concourse of people assemble to assist at the
festival, which is celebrated yearly, and to see the said spectacle.
Arretium,[1754] near the mountains, is the most inland city: it is
distant from Rome 1200 stadia: from Clusium[1755] [to Rome] is 800
stadia. Near to these [two cities] is Perusia. [1756] The large and
numerous lakes add to the fertility of this country,[1757] they are
navigable, and stocked with fish and aquatic birds. Large quantities of
typha,[1758] papyrus, and anthela[1759] are transported to Rome, up the
rivers which flow from these lakes to the Tiber. Among these are the
lake Ciminius,[1760] and those near the Volsinii,[1761] and
Clusium,[1762] and Sabatus,[1763] which is nearest to Rome and the sea,
and the farthest Trasumennus,[1764] near Arretium. Along this is the
pass by which armies can proceed from [Cisalpine] Keltica into
Tyrrhenia; this is the one followed by Hannibal. There are two; the
other leads towards Ariminum across Ombrica, and is preferable as the
mountains are considerably lower; however, as this was carefully
guarded, Hannibal was compelled to take the more difficult, which he
succeeded in forcing after having vanquished Flaminius in a decisive
engagement. There are likewise in Tyrrhenia numerous hot springs, which
on account of their proximity to Rome, are not less frequented than
those of Baiæ, which are the most famous of all.
10. Ombrica lies along the eastern boundary of Tyrrhenia, and commencing
from the Apennines, or rather beyond those mountains, [extends] as far
as the Adriatic. For commencing from Ravenna, the Ombrici inhabit the
neighbouring country together with the cities of Sarsina,
Ariminum,[1765] Sena,[1766] †and Marinum. †[1767] To their country
likewise belongs the river Esino,[1768] Mount Cingulum, [the city of]
Sentinum,[1769] the river Metaurus, and the Fanum Fortunæ;[1770] for
about these parts are the boundaries which separate ancient Italy and
[Cisalpine] Keltica on the side next the Adriatic, although the boundary
has frequently been changed by the chief men of the state. First they
made the Esino the boundary; afterwards the river Rubicon: the Esino
being between Ancona and Sena, and the Rubicon between Ariminum and
Ravenna, both of them falling into the Adriatic. At the present day,
however, since Italy comprehends the whole country as far as the Alps,
we need take no further notice of these limits. All allow that
Ombrica[1771] extends as far as Ravenna, as the inhabitants are Ombrici.
From Ravenna to Ariminum they say is about 300 stadia. Going from
Ariminum to Rome by the Via Flaminia, the whole journey lies through
Ombrica as far as the city of Ocricli[1772] and the Tiber, a distance of
1350 stadia. This, consequently, is the length [of Ombrica]; its breadth
varies. The cities of considerable magnitude situated on this side the
Apennines along the Via Flaminia, are Ocricli on the Tiber,
Laroloni,[1773] and Narnia,[1774] through which the Nera[1775] flows.
This river discharges itself into the Tiber a little above Ocricli; it
is not navigable for large vessels. After these are Carsuli and
Mevania,[1776] past which latter the Teneas[1777] flows, by which river
the merchandise of the plain is transported in small vessels to the
Tiber. There are also other cities well populated, rather on account of
the route along which they lie, than for their political importance.
Such are Forum Flaminium,[1778] Nuceria[1779] where wooden vases are
manufactured, and Forum Sempronium. [1780] Going from Ocricli to
Ariminum, on the right of the [CAS. 228] way are Interamna,[1781]
Spoletium,[1782] Asisium,[1783] and Camerta, situated in the mountains
which bound Picenum. On the other side[1784] are Ameria,[1785]
Tuder,[1786] a well-fortified city, Hispellum,[1787] and Iguvium,[1788]
near to the passes of the mountain. The whole of this country is
fertile, but rather too mountainous, and producing more rye[1789] than
wheat for the food of the inhabitants. The next district, Sabina, is
mountainous, and borders on Tyrrhenia in like manner. The parts of
Latium which border on these districts and the Apennines are very
rugged. These two nations[1790] commence from the Tiber and Tyrrhenia,
and extend as far as the Apennines which advance obliquely towards the
Adriatic: Ombrica extends, as we have said, beyond as far as the sea. We
have now sufficiently described the Ombrici.
CHAPTER III.
1. The Sabini occupy a narrow country, its length from the Tiber and the
small city of Nomentum[1791] to the Vestini being 1000 stadia. They have
but few cities, and these have suffered severely in their continual wars
[with the Romans]. Such are Amiternum[1792] and Reate,[1793] which is
near to the village of Interocrea[1794] and the cold waters at Cotyliæ,
which are taken by patients, both as drink and as baths, for the cure of
various maladies. The rocks of Foruli,[1795] likewise, belong to the
Sabini; fitted rather for rebellion than peaceable habitation. Cures is
now a small village, although formerly a famous city: whence came Titus
Tatius and Numa Pompilius, kings of Rome. From this place is derived the
name of Quirites, which the orators give to the Romans when they address
the people. Trebula,[1796] Eretum,[1797] and other similar places, must
be looked upon rather as villages than cities. The whole land [of
Sabina] is singularly fertile in olive-trees and vines, it produces also
many acorns, and besides has excellent cattle: the mules bred at
Reate[1798] are much celebrated. In one word the whole of Italy is rich
both in cattle and vegetable productions; although certain articles may
be finer in some districts than in others. The race of the Sabini is
extremely ancient, they are Autochthones. The Picentini and Samnitæ
descend from them, as do the Leucani from these latter, and the Bruttii
again from these. A proof of their antiquity may be found in the bravery
and valour which they have maintained till the present time.
Fabius,[1799] the historian, says that the Romans first knew what wealth
was when they became masters of this nation. The Via Salaria, which
however does not extend far, runs through their country: the Via
Nomentana, which commences likewise at the Porta Collina, falls in with
the Via Salaria near to Eretum, a village of Sabina lying above the
Tiber.
2. Beyond Sabina is Latium, wherein the city of Rome is situated. It
comprises many places which formed no part of ancient Latium. For the
Æqui, the Volsci, the Hernici, the aborigines around Rome, the Rutuli
who possessed ancient Ardea, and many other nations, some larger, some
smaller, formed so many separate states around Rome, when that city was
first built. Some of these nations, who dwelt in villages, were governed
by their own laws, and subjected to no common tribe. They say[1800] that
Æneas, with his father Anchises and his child Ascanius, arrived at
Laurentum,[1801] near to Ostia and the bank of the Tiber, where he built
a city about 24 stadia above the sea. That Latinus, the king of the
aborigines who then dwelt on the site where Rome now stands, employed
his forces to aid Æneas against the neighbouring Rutuli who inhabited
Ardea, (now from Ardea to Rome is a distance of 160 stadia,) and having
gained a victory, he built near to the spot a city, to which he gave the
name of his daughter Lavinia. However, in a second battle, commenced by
the Rutuli, Latinus fell, and Æneas, being conqueror, [CAS. 229]
succeeded this prince on the throne, and conferred on his subjects the
name of Latini. After the death both of himself and his father, Ascanius
founded Alba,[1802] on Mount Albanus,[1803] situated about the same
distance from Rome as Ardea. Here Romans and Latini conjointly offer
sacrifice to Jupiter. The magistracy all assemble, and during the period
of the solemnity the government of the city is intrusted to some
distinguished youth.
The facts related of Amulius and his brother
Numitor, some of which are fictitious, while others approach nearer the
truth, occurred four hundred years later. These two brothers, who were
descended from Ascanius, succeeded conjointly to the government of Alba,
which extended as far as the Tiber. However, Amulius the younger, having
expelled the elder, governed [alone]. Numitor had a son and a daughter;
the former Amulius treacherously murdered in the chase; the latter, that
she might remain childless, he made a priestess of Vesta, thus imposing
virginity upon her. This [daughter] they name Rhea Silvia. Afterwards he
discovered that she was pregnant, and when she had given birth to twins,
he, out of respect to his brother, placed her in confinement, instead of
putting her to death, and exposed the boys by the Tiber according to a
national usage. According to the mythology, Mars was the father of these
children, and when they were exposed they were discovered and suckled by
a she-wolf. Faustulus, one of the swine-herds of the place, took and
reared them up, and named one Romulus, the other Remus. (We must
understand that Faustulus, who took them up and nourished them, was an
influential man, and a subject of Amulius. ) Having arrived at man’s
estate, they waged war upon Amulius and his sons; and having slain them,
restored the government to Numitor. They then returned home and founded
Rome, in a locality selected rather through necessity than choice, as
the site was neither fortified by nature, nor sufficiently large for a
city of importance. In addition to this, the neighbourhood supplied no
inhabitants; for those who dwelt around, even though touching the very
walls of the newly founded city, kept to themselves, and would have
nothing at all to do with the Albani. Collatia, Antemnæ, Fidenæ,
Labicum,[1804] and similar places are here alluded to which then were
small cities, but are now villages possessed by private individuals;
they are distant from Rome 30 or 40[1805] stadia, or rather more.
Between the fifth and sixth mile-stone which marks the distance from
Rome there is a place named Festi; this they say was at that time the
limit of the Roman territory, and at the present day, both here and in
numerous other places which they consider to have been boundaries, the
priests offer the sacrifice denominated Ambarvia. [1806] They say that,
at the time of the foundation [CAS. 230] [of the city], a dispute arose
in which Remus lost his life. The city being built, Romulus assembled
men from every quarter, and instituted for an asylum a grove between the
citadel and the Capitol, to which whoever fled from the neighbouring
states, he proclaimed as Roman citizens. Not having wives for these men,
he appointed a horse-race in honour of Neptune, which is celebrated to
this day. Numbers [of spectators] having assembled, particularly of the
Sabini, he commanded that each of those who were in want of a wife,
should carry off one of the assembled maidens. Titus Tatius, king of the
Quirites, took up arms to avenge the insult, but made peace with Romulus
on condition that their kingdoms should be united, and that they should
divide the sovereignty between them. Tatius, however, was treacherously
assassinated in Lavinium, upon which Romulus, with the consent of the
Quirites, reigned alone. After him Numa Pompilius, formerly a subject of
Tatius, assumed the government, by the general desire of the people.
Such is the most authentic account of the foundation of Rome.
3. However, there also exists another more ancient and mythical account,
to the effect that Rome was an Arcadian colony planted by Evander. He
entertained Hercules when driving the oxen of Geryon, and being informed
by his mother Nicostrata, (who was skilled in the art of prophecy,) that
when Hercules should have completed his labours it was fore-ordained
that he should be enrolled amongst the gods; he informed him of the
matter, consecrated to him a grove, and offered sacrifice to him after
the Grecian mode; a sacrifice which is continued in honour of Hercules
to this day. The Roman historian Cœlius is of opinion that this is a
proof that Rome is a Grecian colony, the sacrifice to Hercules after the
Grecian mode having been brought over from their fatherland. The Romans
also worship the mother of Evander under the name of Carmentis,[1807]
considering her one of the nymphs.
4. Thus then the Latini originally were few in number, and for the most
part under no subjection to the Romans; but afterwards, being struck by
the valour of Romulus and the kings who succeeded him, they all
submitted. But the Æqui,[1808] the Volsci, the Hernici; and before them
the Rutuli, the aborigines, the Rhæci, together with certain of the
[CAS. 231] Argyrusci and the Preferni,[1809] being subdued, the whole of
their different countries were included under the name of Latium. To the
Volsci pertained the Pomentine plain, bordering on the territory of the
Latini, and the city of Apiola, levelled to the ground[1810] by
Tarquinius Priscus. The Æqui principally were neighbours to the
Quirites, whose cities Tarquinius Priscus likewise devastated. His son
took Suessa,[1811] the metropolis of the Volsci. The Hernici dwelt near
to Lanuvium, Alba, and to Rome itself; neither were Aricia,[1812] the
Tellenæ, and Antium[1813] at any great distance. The Albani were at
first friendly with the Romans, speaking as they did the same language,
and being likewise of the Latin stock; and though they were under
separate governments, this did not prevent them from marrying together,
nor from performing in common the sacred ceremonies at Alba, and other
civil rites. In after-time, however, war having sprung up, Alba was
entirely destroyed with the exception of the temple, and the Albani were
declared citizens of Rome. Of the other surrounding cities, those which
resisted were either destroyed or enfeebled, while others, which were
friendly to the Romans, flourished. At the present day the coast from
Ostia to the city of Sinuessa[1814] is denominated the Latin coast;
formerly the country thus designated extended only so far as
Circæum. [1815] The interior also [of Latium] was formerly small; but it
afterwards extended to Campania, the Samnitæ, the Peligni,[1816] and
other nations dwelling around the Apennines.
5. The whole [of Latium] is fertile, and abounding in every production,
with the exception of a few districts along the coast, which are marshy
and unhealthy; such as the country of Ardea, the lands between Antium
and Lanuvium as far as Pometia, and certain of the districts of
Setia,[1817] Terracina, and Circæum. Some parts may also be too
mountainous and rocky; but even these are not absolutely idle and
useless, since they furnish abundant pasturage, wood, and the peculiar
productions of the marsh and rock; while Cæcubum, which is entirely
marshy, nourishes a vine, the dendritis,[1818] which produces the most
excellent wine. Of the maritime cities of Latium, one is Ostia. This
city has no port, owing to the accumulation of the alluvial deposit
brought down by the Tiber, which is swelled by numerous rivers; vessels
therefore bring to anchor further out, but not without danger; however,
gain overcomes every thing, for there is an abundance of lighters in
readiness to freight and unfreight the larger ships, before they
approach the mouth of the river, and thus enable them to perform their
voyage speedily. Being lightened of a part of their cargo, they enter
the river and sail up to Rome, a distance of about 190 stadia. Such is
the city of Ostia, founded by Ancus Martius. Next in order comes Antium,
which city is likewise destitute of any port; it is situated on rocks,
and about 260 stadia distant from Ostia. At the present day it is
devoted to the leisure and recreation of statesmen from their political
duties, whenever they can find time, and is in consequence covered with
sumptuous mansions suited to such rusticating. The inhabitants of Antium
had formerly a marine, and even after they were under subjection to the
Romans, took part with the Tyrrhenian pirates. Of this, first, Alexander
sent to complain; after him Demetrius, having taken many of these
pirates, sent them to the Romans, saying that he would surrender them
their persons on account of their affinity to the Greeks, and remarking
at the same time, that it seemed to him a great impropriety, that those
who held sway over the whole of Italy should send out pirates, and that
they who had consecrated in their forum a temple to the honour of the
Dioscuri,[1819] whom all denominated the Saviours, should likewise send
to commit acts of piracy on Greece, which was the fatherland of those
divinities. Hereupon the Romans put a stop to this occupation [piracy].
Between these two cities is Lavinium, which contains a temple of Venus
common to all the Latini, the care of which is intrusted to the priests
of [CAS. 232] Ardea. After this is Laurentum;[1820] and above these lies
Ardea, a colony of the Rutuli, 70 stadia from the sea; near to it is
another temple of Venus, where all the Latini hold a public festival.
These regions have been ravaged by the Samnitæ, and only the traces of
the cities left; but even these are reverenced on account of the arrival
of Æneas here, and of the religious rites which they say were bequeathed
from those times.
6. At 290 stadia from Antium is Mount Circæum, insulated by the sea and
marshes. They say that it contains numerous roots, but this perhaps is
only to harmonize with the myth relating to Circe. It has a small city,
together with a temple to Circe and an altar to Minerva; they likewise
say that a cup is shown which belonged to Ulysses. Between [Antium and
Circæum] is the river Stura,[1821] which has a station for ships: the
rest of the coast is exposed to the south-west wind,[1822] with the
exception of this small harbour of Circæum. [1823] Above this, in the
interior, is the Pomentine plain: the region next to this was formerly
inhabited by the Ausonians, who likewise possessed Campania: next after
these the Osci, who also held part of Campania; now, however, as we have
remarked, the whole, as far as Sinuessa, belongs to the Latini. A
peculiar fate has attended the Osci and Ausonians; for although the Osci
have ceased to exist as a distinct tribe, their dialect is extant among
the Romans, dramatic and burlesque pieces composed in it being still
represented at certain games which were instituted in ancient times. And
as for the Ausonians, although they never have dwelt by the sea of
Sicily,[1824] it is named the Ausonian Sea. At 100 stadia from Circæum
is Tarracina, formerly named Trachina,[1825] on account of its
ruggedness; before it is a great marsh, formed by two rivers, the larger
of which is called the Aufidus. [1826] This is the first place where the
Via Appia approaches the sea. This road is paved from Rome to
Brundusium,[1827] and has great traffic. Of the maritime cities, these
alone are situated on it; Tarracina, beyond it Formiæ,[1828]
Minturnæ,[1829] Sinuessa,[1830] and towards its extremity Tarentum and
Brundusium. Near to Tarracina, advancing in the direction of Rome, a
canal runs by the side of the Via Appia, which is supplied at intervals
by water from the marshes and rivers. Travellers generally sail up it by
night, embarking in the evening, and landing in the morning to travel
the rest of their journey by the way: however, during the day the
passage boat is towed by mules. [1831] Beyond is Formiæ, founded by the
Lacedæmonians, and formerly called Hormiæ, on account of its excellent
port. Between these [two cities],[1832] is a gulf which they have named
Caiata,[1833] in fact all gulfs are called by the Lacedæmonians Caietæ:
some, however, say that the gulf received this appellation from
[Caieta], the nurse of Æneas. From Tarracina to the promontory of Caiata
is a length of 100 stadia. Here[1834] are opened vast caverns, which
contain large and sumptuous mansions. From hence to Formiæ is a distance
of 40 stadia. Between this city and Sinuessa, at a distance of about 80
stadia from each, is Minturnæ. The river Liris,[1835] formerly named the
Clanis, flows through it. It descends from the Apennines, passes through
the country of the Vescini,[1836] and by the village of Fregellæ,
(formerly a famous city,) and so into a sacred grove situated below the
city, and held in great veneration by the people of Minturnæ. There are
two islands, named Pandataria and Pontia,[1837] lying in the high sea,
and clearly discernible from the caverns. Although small, they are well
inhabited, are not at any great distance from each other, and at 250
stadia from the mainland. Cæcubum is situated on the gulf of Caiata, and
next to it Fundi, a city on the Via Appia. All these places produce
excellent wines; but those of Cæcubum, Fundi, and Setia[1838] are most
in repute, and so are the Falernian, Alban,[1839] and Statanian wines.
Sinuessa is situated in a gulf from which it takes its name, sinus
signifying [CAS. 234] [in Latin] a gulf. Near to it are some fine
hot-baths, good for the cure of various maladies. Such are the maritime
cities of Latium.
7. In the interior, the first city above Ostia is Rome; it is the only
city built on the Tiber. It has been remarked above, that its position
was fixed, not by choice, but necessity; to this must be added, that
those who afterwards enlarged it, were not at liberty to select a better
site, being prevented by what was already built. The first [kings]
fortified the Capitol, the Palatium, and the Collis Quirinalis, which
was so easy of access, that when Titus Tatius came to avenge the rape of
the [Sabine] virgins, he took it on the first assault. Ancus Marcius,
who added Mount Cælius and the Aventine Mount with the intermediate
plain, separated as these places were both from each other and from what
had been formerly fortified, was compelled to do this of necessity;
since he did not consider it proper to leave outside his walls, heights
so well protected by nature, to whomsoever might have a mind to fortify
themselves upon them, while at the same time he was not capable of
enclosing the whole as far as Mount Quirinus. Servius perceived this
defect, and added the Esquiline and Viminal hills. As these were both of
easy access from without, a deep trench was dug outside them and the
earth thrown up on the inside, thus forming a terrace of 6 stadia in
length along the inner side of the trench. This terrace he surmounted
with a wall flanked with towers, and extending from the Colline[1840] to
the Esquiline gate. Midway along the terrace is a third gate, named
after the Viminal hill. Such is the Roman rampart, which seems to stand
in need of other ramparts itself. But it seems to me that the first
[founders] were of opinion, both in regard to themselves and their
successors, that Romans had to depend not on fortifications, but on arms
and their individual valour, both for safety and for wealth, and that
walls were not a defence to men, but men were a defence to walls. At the
period of its commencement, when the large and fertile districts
surrounding the city belonged to others, and while it lay easily open to
assault, there was nothing in its position which could be looked upon as
favourable; but when by valour and labour these districts became its
own, there succeeded a tide of prosperity surpassing the advantages of
every other place. Thus, notwithstanding the prodigious increase of the
city, there has been plenty of food, and also of wood and stone for
ceaseless building, rendered necessary by the falling down of houses,
and on account of conflagrations, and of the sales, which seem never to
cease. These sales are a kind of voluntary falling down of houses, each
owner knocking down and rebuilding one part or another according to his
individual taste. For these purposes the numerous quarries, the forests,
and the rivers which convey the materials, offer wonderful facilities.
Of these rivers, the first is the Teverone,[1841] which flows from Alba,
a city of the Latins near to the country of the Marsi, and from thence
through the plain below this [city], till it unites with the Tiber.
After this come the Nera[1842] and the Timia,[1843] which passing
through Ombrica fall into the Tiber, and the Chiana,[1844] which flows
through Tyrrhenia and the territory of Clusium. [1845] Augustus Cæsar
endeavoured to avert from the city damages of the kind alluded to, and
instituted a company of freedmen, who should be ready to lend their
assistance in cases of conflagration;[1846] whilst, as a preventive
against the falling of houses, he decreed that all new buildings should
not be carried so high as formerly, and that those erected along the
public ways should not exceed seventy feet in height. [1847] But these
improvements must have ceased only for the facilities afforded by the
quarries, the forests, and the ease of transport.
8. These advantages accrued to the city from the nature of the country;
but the foresight of the Romans added others [CAS. 235] besides. The
Grecian cities are thought to have flourished mainly on account of the
felicitous choice made by their founders, in regard to the beauty and
strength of their sites, their proximity to some port, and the fineness
of the country. But the Roman prudence was more particularly employed on
matters which had received but little attention from the Greeks, such as
paving their roads, constructing aqueducts, and sewers, to convey the
sewage of the city into the Tiber. In fact, they have paved the roads,
cut through hills, and filled up valleys, so that the merchandise may be
conveyed by carriage from the ports. The sewers, arched over with hewn
stones, are large enough in some parts for waggons loaded with hay to
pass through; while so plentiful is the supply of water from the
aqueducts, that rivers may be said to flow through the city and the
sewers, and almost every house is furnished with water-pipes and copious
fountains. To effect which Marcus Agrippa directed his special
attention; he likewise bestowed upon the city numerous ornaments. We may
remark, that the ancients, occupied with greater and more necessary
concerns, paid but little attention to the beautifying of Rome. But
their successors, and especially those of our own day, without
neglecting these things, have at the same time embellished the city with
numerous and splendid objects. Pompey, divus Cæsar, and Augustus, with
his children, friends, wife, and sister, have surpassed all others in
their zeal and munificence in these decorations. The greater number of
these may be seen in the Campus Martius, which to the beauties of nature
adds those of art. The size of the plain is marvellous, permitting
chariot-races and other feats of horsemanship without impediment, and
multitudes to exercise themselves at ball,[1848] in the circus[1849] and
the palæstra. The structures which surround it, the turf covered with
herbage all the year round, the summits of the hills beyond the Tiber,
extending from its banks with panoramic effect, present a spectacle
which the eye abandons with regret. Near to this plain is another
surrounded with columns, sacred groves, three theatres, an amphitheatre,
and superb temples in close contiguity to each other; and so
magnificent, that it would seem idle to describe the rest of the city
after it. For this cause the Romans, esteeming it as the most sacred
place, have there erected funeral monuments to the most illustrious
persons of either sex. The most remarkable of these is that designated
as the Mausoleum,[1850] which consists of a mound of earth raised upon a
high foundation of white marble, situated near the river, and covered to
the top with ever-green shrubs. Upon the summit is a bronze statue of
Augustus Cæsar, and beneath the mound are the ashes[1851] of himself,
his relatives, and friends. Behind is a large grove containing charming
promenades. In the centre of the plain,[1852] is the spot where this
prince was reduced to ashes; it is surrounded with a double enclosure,
one of marble, the other of iron, and planted within with poplars. If
from hence you proceed to visit the ancient forum, which is equally
filled with basilicas, porticos, and temples, you will there behold the
Capitol, the Palatium, with the noble works which adorn them, and the
piazza of Livia, each successive place causing you speedily to forget
what you have before seen. Such is Rome.
9. Of the other cities of Latium, some are distinguished by a variety of
remarkable objects, others by the celebrated roads which intersect
Latium, being situated either upon, or near to, or between these roads,
the most celebrated of which are the Via Appia, the Via Latina, and the
Via Valeria. The former of these bounds the maritime portion of Latium,
as far as Sinuessa, the latter extends along Sabina as far as the Marsi,
whilst between these is the Via Latina, which falls in with the Via
Appia near to Casilinum,[1853] a city distant from Capua[1854] 19
stadia. The Via Latina commences from the Via Appia, branching from it
towards the left, near to Rome. It passes over the Tusculan mountain,
between the city of Tusculum[1855] and Mount Albanus; it then descends
to the little city of Algidum,[1856] and the Pictæ tavern; afterwards
the Via [CAS. 237] Lavicana joins it, which commences, like the Via
Prænestina, from the Esquiline gate. This road, as well as the Esquiline
plain, the Via Lavicana leaves on the left; it then proceeds a distance
of 120 stadia, or more, when it approaches Lavicum, an ancient city now
in ruins, situated on an eminence; this and Tusculum it leaves on the
right, and terminates near to Pictæ in the Via Latina. This place is 210
stadia distant from Rome. Proceeding thence along the Via Latina there
are noble residences, and the cities Ferentinum,[1857] Frusino,[1858] by
which the river Cosa flows, Fabrateria,[1859] by which flows the river
Sacco,[1860] Aquinum,[1861] a large city, by which flows the great river
Melfa,[1862] Interamnium, situated at the confluence of two rivers, the
Garigliano and another, Casinum, also an important city, and the last of
those belonging to Latium. For Teanum, called Sidicinum,[1863] which
lies next in order, shows by its name that it belongs to the nation of
the Sidicini. These people are Osci, a surviving nation of the Campani,
so that this city, which is the largest of those situated upon the Via
Latina, may be said to be Campanian; as well as that of Cales,[1864]
another considerable city which lies beyond, and is contiguous to
Casilinum. [1865]
10. As to the places situated on either side of the Via Latina, those on
the right are between it and the Via Appia; of their number are
Setia[1866] and Signia,[1867] which produce wine, that of Setia being
one of the dearest wines, and that called Signium the best for
strengthening the stomach. Before this[1868] are Privernum,[1869]
Cora,[1870] Suessa,[1871] ‘Trapontium,’[1872] Velitræ,[1873]
Aletrium,[1874] and also Fregellæ,[1875] by which the Garigliano flows,
which discharges itself [into the sea] near Minturnæ. Fregellæ, though
now a village, was formerly a considerable city, and the chief of the
surrounding places we have just named. Even now their inhabitants throng
to it on market days, and for the performance of certain religious
solemnities. Its defection from the Romans was the cause of its
ruin. [1876] Both these, and also the cities lying on the Via Latina and
beyond, situated in the territories of the Hernici, Æqui, and Volsci,
were for the most part founded by the Romans. To the left of the Via
Latina, the cities between it and the Via Valeria, are, Gabii,[1877]
standing in the Via Prænestina, it possesses a stone-quarry, in greater
demand at Rome than any other, and is at an equal distance of about 100
stadia between Rome and Præneste. [1878] Then Præneste, of which we shall
have occasion presently to speak. Then, in the mountains above Præneste,
Capitulum, a small city of the Hernici, and Anagnia,[1879] a
considerable city; Cereate,[1880] and Sora, by which the river
Garigliano[1881] flows as it passes on to Fregellæ, and Minturnæ. After
these there are other places, and finally, Venafrum,[1882] from whence
comes the finest oil. This city is situated on a high hill by the foot
of which flows the Volturno,[1883] which passing by Casilinum,[1884]
discharges itself [into the sea] at a city[1885] bearing the same name
as itself. Æsernia[1886] and Alliphæ,[1887] cities of the Samnites, the
former was destroyed in the Marsian war,[1888] the other still remains.
11. The Via Valeria, commencing from Tibura,[1889] leads to the country
of the Marsi, and to Corfinium,[1890] the metropolis of the Peligni.
Upon it are situated the Latin cities of Valeria,[1891] Carseoli,[1892]
Alba,[1893] and near to it the city of Cuculum. [1894] Within sight of
Rome are Tibura, Præneste, and Tusculum. [1895] At Tibura is a temple of
Hercules, and a cataract formed by the fall of the Teverone,[1896]
(which is here navigable,) from a great height into a deep and wooded
ravine close to the city. From thence the river flows through a highly
fertile plain along by [CAS. 238] the Tiburtine stone-quarries, those of
the Gabii, and those denominated the red-stone quarries. As both the
carriage from the quarries and the conveyance by river are easy, most of
the Roman edifices are built of materials from hence. In this plain flow
the cold waters called Albula, they spring from numerous fountains, and
are taken both as a beverage and as baths,[1897] for the cure of various
diseases. Of the same kind are the Labanæ,[1898] not far from these, on
the Via Nomentana, and near to Eretum. [1899] At Præneste is the
celebrated temple and oracle of Fortune. Both this and the preceding
city are situated on the same chain of mountains, and are distant from
each other 100 stadia. Præneste is 200 stadia from Rome, Tibura less
than that distance. They are said to be both of Grecian foundation,
Præneste being formerly named Polystephanus. They are both fortified,
but Præneste is the stronger place of the two, having for its citadel a
lofty mountain, which overhangs the town, and is divided at the back
from the adjoining mountain range by a neck of land. This mountain is
two stadia higher than the neck in direct altitude. In addition to these
[natural] defences, the city is furnished on all sides with
subterraneous passages, which extend to the plains, and some of which
serve to convey water, while others form secret ways; it was in one of
these that Marius[1900] perished, when he was besieged. Other cities are
in most instances benefited by a strong position, but to the people of
Præneste it has proved a bane, owing to the civil wars of the Romans.
For hither the revolutionary movers take refuge, and when at last they
surrender, in addition to the injury sustained by the city during the
war, the country is confiscated, and the guilt thus imputed to the
guiltless. The river Verestis[1901] flows through this region. The said
cities are to the east of Rome.
12. But within-side the chain of mountains, [where these cities are
situated,] there is another ridge, leaving a valley between it and Mount
Algidus; it is lofty, and extends as far as Mount Albanus. [1902] It is
on this ridge that Tusculum is situated, a city which is not wanting in
adornment, being entirely surrounded by ornamental plantations and
edifices, particularly that part of it which looks towards Rome. For on
this side Tusculum presents a fertile hill, well irrigated, and with
numerous gentle slopes embellished with majestic palaces. Contiguous are
the undulating slopes of Mount Albanus, which are equally fertile and
ornamented. Beyond are plains which extend some of them to Rome and its
environs, others to the sea; these latter are unhealthy, but the others
are salubrious and well cultivated. Next after Albanum is the city
Aricia, on the Appian Way. It is 160 stadia from Rome. This place is
situated in a hollow, and has a strong citadel. [1903] Beyond it on one
side of the way is Lanuvium,[1904] a Roman city on the right of the Via
Appia, and from which both the sea and Antium may be viewed. On the
other side is the Artemisium,[1905] which is called Nemus,[1906] on the
left side of the way, leading from Aricia to the temple. [1907] They say
that it is consecrated to Diana Taurica, and certainly the rites
performed in this temple are something barbarous and Scythic. They
appoint as priest a fugitive who has murdered the preceding priest with
his own hand. Apprehensive of an attack upon himself, the priest is
always armed with a sword, ready for resistance. The temple is in a
grove, and before it is a [CAS. 240] lake of considerable size. The
temple and water are surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices, so that
they seem to be situated in a deep and hollow ravine. The springs by
which the lake is filled are visible. One of these is denominated
Egeria, after the name of a certain divinity; however, their course on
leaving the lake is subterraneous, but they may be observed at some
distance, when they rise to the surface of the ground.
13. Near to these localities is Mount Albanus,[1908] which is much
higher than either the Artemisium or the heights surrounding it,
although these are sufficiently lofty and precipitous. It has likewise a
lake,[1909] much larger than that of the Artemisium. Further forward
than these are the cities on the Via Latina, we have already mentioned.
Alba[1910] is the most inland of all the Latin cities; it borders on the
Marsi, and is situated on a high hill near to Lake Fucinus. This [lake]
is vast as a sea, and is of great service to the Marsi and all the
surrounding nations. They say, that at times its waters rise to the
height of the mountains which surround it, and at others subside so
much, that the places which had been covered with water reappear and may
be cultivated; however, the subsidings of the waters occur irregularly
and without previous warning, and are followed by their rising again;
the springs fail altogether and gush out again after a time; as they say
is the case with the Amenanus,[1911] which flows through Catana,[1912]
for after remaining dry for a number of years, it again flows. It is
reported that the Marcian[1913] water, which is drunk at Rome in
preference to any other, has its source in [Lake] Fucinus. As Alba is
situated in the depths of the country, and is besides a strong position,
the Romans have often employed it as a place of security, for lodging
important prisoners.
their casks give evidence of the abundance of wine: these are made of
wood, and are larger than houses, and the great supply of pitch allows
them to be sold cheap. The soft wool and by far the best is produced in
the country round Mutina[1672] and the river Panaro;[1673] while the
coarse wool, which forms the main article of clothing amongst the slaves
in Italy, is produced in Liguria and the country of the Symbri. There is
a middling kind grown about Patavium,[1674] of which the finer carpets,
gausapi,[1675] and every thing else of the same sort, whether with the
wool on one or on both sides, are made. The mines are not worked now so
diligently, because not equally profitable with those of Transalpine
Keltica and Iberia; but formerly they must have been, since there were
gold-diggings even in Vercelli, near to Ictimuli,[1676] both which
villages are near to Placentia. [1677] Here we finish our description of
the first part of Italy, and pass on to the second.
CHAPTER II.
1. In the second place, we shall treat of that portion of Liguria
situated in the Apennines, between the Keltica[1678] already described
and Tyrrhenia. There is nothing worth mentioning about it, except that
the people dwell in villages, ploughing and digging the intractable
land, or rather, as Posidonius expresses it, hewing the rocks.
The third division contains the Tyrrhenians, who dwell next the former,
and inhabit the plains extending to the Tiber, which river, as far as
its outlet, washes the side towards the east, the opposite side being
washed by the Tyrrhenian and Sardinian sea. The Tiber flows from the
Apennines, and is swelled by many rivers; it flows partly through
Tyrrhenia, dividing it in the first instance from Ombrica,[1679]
afterwards from the Sabini and the Latini, who are situated next Rome as
far as the sea-coast; so that these countries are bounded in their
breadth by the river [Tiber] and the Tyrrhenians, and in their length by
each other. They extend upwards towards the Apennines which approach the
Adriatic. The first[1680] are the Ombrici, after these the Sabini, and
finally the inhabitants of Latium. They all commence from the river. The
country of the Latini extends on one side along the sea-coast from Ostia
to the city of Sinuessa, on the other it is bounded by the land of the
Sabini, (Ostia is the port of Rome, through which the Tiber passes in
its course,) it [CAS. 219] extends in length as far as Campania and the
Samnitic mountains. The country of the Sabini lies between the Latini
and the Ombrici, it likewise extends to the Samnitic mountains, but
approaches nearer to the Apennines inhabited by the Vestini, the
Peligni, and the Marsi. The Ombrici lie between the country of the
Sabini and Tyrrhenia, but extend beyond the mountains as far as
Ariminum,[1681] and Ravenna. The Tyrrheni, commencing from their own sea
and the Tiber, extend to the circular chain of mountains which stretches
from Liguria to the Adriatic. We will now enter into a detailed account,
commencing with these.
2. The Tyrrheni have now received from the Romans the surname of Etrusci
and Tusci. The Greeks thus named them from Tyrrhenus the son of Atys, as
they say, who sent hither a colony from Lydia. Atys, who was one of the
descendants of Hercules and Omphale, and had two sons, in a time of
famine and scarcity determined by lot that Lydus should remain in the
country, but that Tyrrhenus, with the greater part of the people, should
depart. Arriving here, he named the country after himself, Tyrrhenia,
and founded twelve cities, having appointed as their governor Tarcon,
from whom the city of Tarquinia [received its name], and who, on account
of the sagacity which he had displayed from childhood, was feigned to
have been born with hoary hair. Placed originally under one authority,
they became flourishing; but it seems that in after-times, their
confederation being broken up and each city separated, they yielded to
the violence of the neighbouring tribes. Otherwise they would never have
abandoned a fertile country for a life of piracy on the sea, roving from
one ocean to another; since, when united they were able not only to
repel those who assailed them, but to act on the offensive, and
undertake long campaigns. After the foundation of Rome, Demaratus
arrived here, bringing with him people from Corinth. [1682] He was
received at Tarquinia, where he had a son, named Lucumo, by a woman of
that country. [1683] Lucumo becoming the friend of Ancus Marcius, king
of the Romans, succeeded him on the throne, and assumed the name of
Lucius Tarquinius Priscus. Both he and his father did much for the
embellishment of Tyrrhenia, the one by means of the numerous artists who
had followed him from their native country; the other having the
resources of Rome. [1684] It is said that the triumphal costume of the
consuls, as well as that of the other magistrates, was introduced from
the Tarquinii, with the fasces, axes, trumpets, sacrifices, divination,
and music employed by the Romans in their public ceremonies. His son,
the second Tarquin, named Superbus, who was driven from his throne, was
the last king [of Rome]. Porsena, king of Clusium,[1685] a city of
Tyrrhenia, endeavoured to replace him on the throne by force of arms,
but not being able he made peace[1686] with the Romans, and departed in
a friendly way, with honour and loaded with gifts.
3. Such are the facts concerning the celebrity of the Tyrrheni, to which
may be added the exploits of the Cæretani,[1687] who defeated the Galatæ
after they had taken Rome. Having attacked them as they were departing
through the country of the Sabini, they took from them, much against
their will, the ransom which the Romans had willingly paid to them;
besides this, they took under their protection those who fled to them
out of Rome, the sacred fire and the priestesses of Vesta. [1688] The
Romans, influenced by those who then misgoverned the city, seem not to
have been properly mindful of this service; for although they conferred
on them the rights of citizenship, they did not enrol them amongst the
citizens; and further, they inscribed upon the same roll with the
Cæretani, others who did not enjoy as great privileges as they did.
However, [CAS. 220] amongst the Greeks this city was highly esteemed
both for its bravery and rectitude of conduct; for they refrained from
piracy, with favourable opportunities for engaging in it, and dedicated
at Delphi the treasure, as it was called, of the Agyllæi; for their
country was formerly named Agylla, though now Cærea. It is said to have
been founded by Pelasgi from Thessaly. The Lydians, who had taken the
name of Tyrrheni, having engaged in war against the Agyllæi, one of
them, approaching the wall, inquired the name of the city; when one of
the Thessalians from the wall, instead of answering the question,
saluted him with χαῖρε. [1689] The Tyrrheni received this as an omen, and
having taken the city they changed its name. This city, once so
flourishing and celebrated, only preserves the traces [of its former
greatness]; the neighbouring hot springs, named Cæretana,[1690] being
more frequented than it, by the people attracted thither for the sake of
their health.
4. Almost every one is agreed that the Pelasgi were an ancient race
spread throughout the whole of Greece, but especially in the country of
the Æolians near to Thessaly. Ephorus, however, says that he considers
they were originally Arcadians, who had taken up a warlike mode of life;
and having persuaded many others to the same course, imparted their own
name to the whole, and became famous both among the Greeks, and in every
other country where they chanced to come. Homer informs us that there
were colonies of them in Crete, for he makes Ulysses say to Penelope—
“Diverse their language is; Achaians some,
And some indigenous are; Cydonians there,
Crest-shaking Dorians, and Pelasgians dwell. ”[1691]
And that portion of Thessaly between the outlets of the Peneius[1692]
and the Thermopylæ, as far as the mountains of Pindus, is named Pelasgic
Argos, the district having formerly belonged to the Pelasgi. The poet
himself also gives to Dodonæan Jupiter, the epithet of Pelasgian:—
“Pelasgian, Dodonæan Jove supreme. ”[1693]
Many have likewise asserted that the nations of the Epirus are Pelasgic,
because the dominions of the Pelasgi extended so far. And, as many of
the heroes have been named Pelasgi, later writers have applied the same
name to the nations over which they were the chiefs. Thus Lesbos[1694]
has been called Pelasgic, and Homer has called the people bordering on
the Cilices in the Troad Pelasgic:—
“Hippothous from Larissa, for her soil
Far-famed, the spear-expert Pelasgians brought. ”[1695]
Ephorus, when he supposes that they were a tribe of Arcadians, follows
Hesiod, who says,
“The sons born of the divine Lycaon, whom formerly Pelasgus
begot. ”
Likewise Æschylus in his Suppliants, or Danaids, makes their race to be
of Argos near Mycenæ. Ephorus likewise says that Peloponnesus was named
Pelasgia; and Euripides, in the Archelaus, says,
“Danaus, who was the father of fifty daughters, having arrived in
Argos, inhabited[1696] the city of Inachus, and made a law that
those who had before borne the name of Pelasgiotæ throughout
Greece should be called Danai. ”
Anticlides says, that they first colonized about Lemnos and Imbros, and
that some of their number passed into Italy with Tyrrhenus, the son of
Atys. And the writers on the Athenian Antiquities,[1697] relate of the
Pelasgi, that some of them came to Athens, where, on account of their
wanderings, and their settling like birds in any place where they
chanced to come, they were called by the Athenians _Pelargi_. [1698]
5. They say that the greatest length of Tyrrhenia, which is along the
coast from Luna to Ostia, is about 2500 stadia; and that its breadth in
the direction of the mountains is less than half that number. Then from
Luna to Pisa there are more than 400 stadia; from thence to
Volaterræ[1699] 280; thence to [CAS. 222] Poplonium 270; and from
Poplonium to Cossa[1700] near 800, or as some say, 600. Polybius,
however, says that there are not[1701] in all 1330. [1702] Of these Luna
is a city and harbour; it is named by the Greeks, the harbour and city
of Selene. [1703] The city is not large, but the harbour[1704] is very
fine and spacious, containing in itself numerous harbours, all of them
deep near the shore; it is in fact an arsenal worthy of a nation holding
dominion for so long a time over so vast a sea. The harbour is
surrounded by lofty mountains,[1705] from whence you may view the
sea[1706] and Sardinia, and a great part of the coast on either side.
Here are quarries of marble, both white and marked with green, so
numerous and large, as to furnish tablets and columns of one block; and
most of the material for the fine works, both in Rome and the other
cities, is furnished from hence. The transport of the marble is easy, as
the quarries lie near to the sea, and from the sea they are conveyed by
the Tiber. Tyrrhenia likewise supplies most of the straightest and
longest planks for building, as they are brought direct from the
mountains to the river. Between Luna and Pisa flows the Macra,[1707] a
division which many writers consider the true boundary of Tyrrhenia and
Liguria. Pisa was founded by the Pisatæ of the Peloponnesus, who went
under Nestor to the expedition against Troy, but in their voyage home
wandered out of their course, some to Metapontium,[1708] others to the
Pisatis; they were, however, all called Pylians. The city lies between
the two rivers Arno[1709] and Æsar,[1710] at their point of confluence;
the former of which, though very full, descends from Arretium[1711] not
in one body, but divided into three; the second flows down from the
Apennines. Where they fall into one current, the shock between them is
so great as to raise the water to that height, that people standing on
either bank are not able to see each other; so that necessarily the
voyage up from the sea is difficult. This voyage is about 20 stadia.
There is a tradition, that when these rivers first descended from the
mountains they were impeded by the inhabitants of the district, lest
falling together they should inundate the country; however, they
promised not to inundate it, and they have kept their word. This city
appears to have been formerly flourishing, and at the present day it
still maintains its name, on account of its fertility, its
marble-quarries, and its wood for building ships, which formerly they
employed to preserve themselves from danger by sea; for they were more
warlike than the Tyrrheni, and were constantly irritated by the
Ligurians, troublesome neighbours, who dwelt on the coast. At the
present day the wood is mostly employed for building houses in Rome, and
in the country villas [of the Romans], which resemble in their
gorgeousness Persian palaces.
6. The country of the Volaterrani[1712] is washed by the sea. Their city
is situated in a deep hollow on the top of a high hill. The wall of the
city is built round its summit, which is flat and precipitous on every
side. From its base, the ascent upward is fifteen stadia, steep and
difficult. Here certain of the Tyrrhenians and of those proscribed by
Sulla,[1713] took their stand, and having organized four bands,
sustained a siege for two years, and at last secured articles of truce
before surrendering the place. Poplonium is situated on a lofty
promontory, which projects into the sea, and forms a chersonesus. It
likewise sustained a siege about the same time. This little place is now
deserted, with the exception of the temples and a few houses; the
sea-port, which is situated at the root of the mountain, is better
inhabited, having both a small harbour and ship-sheds. This appears to
me the only one of the ancient Tyrrhenian cities situated on the sea;
the reason being that this territory affords no harbours. The founders
[of the cities] therefore either avoided the sea altogether, or threw up
fortifications in order that they might not become the ready prey of
those who might sail against them. On the [CAS. 223] summit [of the
cape] there is a look-out for thunnies. [1714] From this city there is an
indistinct and distant view of Sardinia. Cyrnus,[1715] however, is
nearer, being distant from Sardinia about 60 stadia. While Æthalia[1716]
is much nearer to the continent than either, being distant therefrom
only 300[1717] stadia, and the same number from Cyrnus. Poplonium is the
best starting-place to any of the three mentioned islands. We ourselves
observed them from the height of Poplonium, in which place we saw
certain mines which had been abandoned, we also saw the craftsmen who
work the iron brought from Æthalia; for they cannot reduce it into bars
in the furnaces on the island, and it is therefore transferred direct
from the mines to the continent. There is another remarkable
circumstance, that the exhausted mines of the island in course of time
are again refilled similarly to what they say takes place at the
_platamones_[1718] in Rhodes, the marble-quarries in Paros, and the
salt-mines in India, mentioned by Clitarchus. Eratosthenes was therefore
incorrect in saying that from the mainland you could neither see Cyrnus
nor Sardinia; and so was Artemidorus in his assertion, that both these
places lay in the high sea at a distance of 1200 stadia. For whatever
others might, I certainly could never have seen them at such a distance,
however carefully I had looked, particularly Cyrnus. Æthalia has a
harbour named Argoüs,[1719] derived, as they say, from the [ship] Argo,
Jason having sailed hither, seeking the abode of Circe as Medea wished
to see that goddess; and that from the sweat scraped off by the
Argonauts and hardened, are formed the variegated pebbles now seen on
the beach. [1720] This and similar traditions prove what we before
stated, that Homer did not invent them all himself, but, hearing the
numerous current stories, he merely transferred the scenes to other
localities and exaggerated the distances: as he makes Ulysses wander
over the ocean, so does he narrate of Jason, as he too had been renowned
for his travels: and the same he likewise relates of Menelaus. This is
what we have to say of Æthalia.
7. Cyrnus is called by the Romans Corsica; it is poorly inhabited, being
both rugged and in many parts entirely inaccessible, so that the
mountaineers, who live by plunder, are more savage than wild beasts.
Whenever any Roman general invades the country, and, penetrating into
the wilds, seizes a vast number of slaves, it is a marvel to behold in
Rome how savage and bestial they appear. For they either scorn to live,
or if they do live, aggravate their purchasers by their apathy and
insensibility, causing them to regret the purchase-money, however
small. [1721] We must remark, however, that some districts are habitable,
and that there are some small cities, for instance Blesino, Charax,
Eniconiæ, and Vapanes. [1722] The chorographer[1723] says that the length
of this island is 160 miles, its breadth 70; that the length of Sardinia
is 220, and its breadth 98. According to others, the perimeter of Cyrnus
is said to be about 1200[1724] stadia, and of Sardinia 4000. A great
portion of this latter is rugged and untranquil; another large portion
is fertile in every production, but particularly in wheat. There are
many cities, some are considerable, as Caralis[1725] and Sulchi. [1726]
There is however an evil, which must be set against the fertility of
these places; for during the summer the island is unhealthy, more
particularly so in the most fertile districts; in addition to this, it
is often ravaged by the mountaineers, whom they call Diagesbes,[1727]
who formerly were named Iolaënses. For it is said that Iolaus[1728]
brought hither certain of the children of Hercules, and established
himself amongst the barbarian [CAS. 225] possessors of the island, who
were Tyrrhenians. Afterwards the Phœnicians of Carthage became masters
of the island, and, assisted by the inhabitants, carried on war against
the Romans; but after the subversion of the Carthaginians, the Romans
became masters of the whole. There are four nations of mountaineers, the
Parati, Sossinati, Balari, and the Aconites. These people dwell in
caverns. Although they have some arable land, they neglect its
cultivation, preferring rather to plunder what they find cultivated by
others, whether on the island or on the continent, where they make
descents, especially upon the Pisatæ. The prefects sent [into Sardinia]
sometimes resist them, but at other times leave them alone, since it
would cost too dear to maintain an army always on foot in an unhealthy
place: they have, however, recourse to the arts of stratagem, and taking
advantage of the custom of the barbarians, who always hold a great
festival for several days after returning from a plundering expedition,
they then fall upon them, and capture many. There are rams here which,
instead of wool, have hair resembling that of a goat; they are called
musmones, and the inhabitants make corselets of their hides. They
likewise arm themselves with a pelta and a small sword.
8. Along the whole coast between Poplonium and Pisa these islands are
clearly visible; they are oblong, and all three nearly parallel,[1729]
running towards the south and Libya. Æthalia is by far smaller than
either of the other two. The chorographer says that the shortest passage
from Libya to Sardinia is 300[1730] miles. After Poplonium is the city
of Cossæ, situated at a short distance from the sea: there is at the
head of the bay a high hill upon which it is built; below it lies the
port of Hercules,[1731] and near to it a marsh formed by the sea. [1732]
At the summit of the cape which commands the gulf is a look-out for
thunnies; for the thunny pursues his course along the coast, from the
Atlantic Ocean as far as Sicily, in search not only of acorns, but also
of the fish which furnishes the purple dye. As one sails along the coast
from Cossæ to Ostia there are the towns of Gravisci,[1733] Pyrgi,[1734]
Alsium,[1735] and Fregena. [1736] [From Cossæ] to Gravisci is a distance
of 300 stadia, and between them is the place named Regis-Villa. This is
said to have been the royal residence of Maleos the Pelasgian; they
report that after he had reigned here for some time, he departed with
his Pelasgians to Athens. These were of the same tribe as those who
occupied Agylla. From Gravisci to Pyrgi is a little less than 180
stadia, and the sea-port town of the Cæretani is 30 stadia farther.
[Pyrgi] contains a temple of Ilethyia[1737] founded by the Pelasgi, and
which was formerly rich, but it was plundered by Dionysius the tyrant of
the Sicilians, at the time[1738] of his voyage to Cyrnus. [1739] From
Pyrgi to Ostia is 260 stadia; between the two are Alsium and Fregena.
Such is our account of the coast of Tyrrhenia.
9. In the interior of the country, besides the cities already mentioned,
there are Arretium,[1740] Perusia,[1741] Volsinii,[1742] Sutrium;[1743]
and in addition to these are numerous small cities, as Blera,[1744]
Ferentinum,[1745] Falerium,[1746] Faliscum,[1747] Nepita,[1748]
Statonia,[1749] and many others; some of which exist in their original
state, others have been colonized by the Romans, or partially ruined by
them in their wars, viz. those they frequently waged against the
Veii[1750] and the Fidenæ. [1751] Some say that the inhabitants of
Falerium are not Tyrrhenians, but Falisci, a distinct nation; others
state further, that the Falisci speak a language peculiar to themselves;
some again would make it Æquum-Faliscum on [CAS. 226] the Via Flaminia,
lying between Ocricli[1752] and Rome. Below Mount Soracte[1753] is the
city of Feronia, having the same name as a certain goddess of the
country, highly reverenced by the surrounding people: here is her
temple, in which a remarkable ceremony is performed, for those possessed
by the divinity pass over a large bed of burning coal and ashes
barefoot, unhurt. A great concourse of people assemble to assist at the
festival, which is celebrated yearly, and to see the said spectacle.
Arretium,[1754] near the mountains, is the most inland city: it is
distant from Rome 1200 stadia: from Clusium[1755] [to Rome] is 800
stadia. Near to these [two cities] is Perusia. [1756] The large and
numerous lakes add to the fertility of this country,[1757] they are
navigable, and stocked with fish and aquatic birds. Large quantities of
typha,[1758] papyrus, and anthela[1759] are transported to Rome, up the
rivers which flow from these lakes to the Tiber. Among these are the
lake Ciminius,[1760] and those near the Volsinii,[1761] and
Clusium,[1762] and Sabatus,[1763] which is nearest to Rome and the sea,
and the farthest Trasumennus,[1764] near Arretium. Along this is the
pass by which armies can proceed from [Cisalpine] Keltica into
Tyrrhenia; this is the one followed by Hannibal. There are two; the
other leads towards Ariminum across Ombrica, and is preferable as the
mountains are considerably lower; however, as this was carefully
guarded, Hannibal was compelled to take the more difficult, which he
succeeded in forcing after having vanquished Flaminius in a decisive
engagement. There are likewise in Tyrrhenia numerous hot springs, which
on account of their proximity to Rome, are not less frequented than
those of Baiæ, which are the most famous of all.
10. Ombrica lies along the eastern boundary of Tyrrhenia, and commencing
from the Apennines, or rather beyond those mountains, [extends] as far
as the Adriatic. For commencing from Ravenna, the Ombrici inhabit the
neighbouring country together with the cities of Sarsina,
Ariminum,[1765] Sena,[1766] †and Marinum. †[1767] To their country
likewise belongs the river Esino,[1768] Mount Cingulum, [the city of]
Sentinum,[1769] the river Metaurus, and the Fanum Fortunæ;[1770] for
about these parts are the boundaries which separate ancient Italy and
[Cisalpine] Keltica on the side next the Adriatic, although the boundary
has frequently been changed by the chief men of the state. First they
made the Esino the boundary; afterwards the river Rubicon: the Esino
being between Ancona and Sena, and the Rubicon between Ariminum and
Ravenna, both of them falling into the Adriatic. At the present day,
however, since Italy comprehends the whole country as far as the Alps,
we need take no further notice of these limits. All allow that
Ombrica[1771] extends as far as Ravenna, as the inhabitants are Ombrici.
From Ravenna to Ariminum they say is about 300 stadia. Going from
Ariminum to Rome by the Via Flaminia, the whole journey lies through
Ombrica as far as the city of Ocricli[1772] and the Tiber, a distance of
1350 stadia. This, consequently, is the length [of Ombrica]; its breadth
varies. The cities of considerable magnitude situated on this side the
Apennines along the Via Flaminia, are Ocricli on the Tiber,
Laroloni,[1773] and Narnia,[1774] through which the Nera[1775] flows.
This river discharges itself into the Tiber a little above Ocricli; it
is not navigable for large vessels. After these are Carsuli and
Mevania,[1776] past which latter the Teneas[1777] flows, by which river
the merchandise of the plain is transported in small vessels to the
Tiber. There are also other cities well populated, rather on account of
the route along which they lie, than for their political importance.
Such are Forum Flaminium,[1778] Nuceria[1779] where wooden vases are
manufactured, and Forum Sempronium. [1780] Going from Ocricli to
Ariminum, on the right of the [CAS. 228] way are Interamna,[1781]
Spoletium,[1782] Asisium,[1783] and Camerta, situated in the mountains
which bound Picenum. On the other side[1784] are Ameria,[1785]
Tuder,[1786] a well-fortified city, Hispellum,[1787] and Iguvium,[1788]
near to the passes of the mountain. The whole of this country is
fertile, but rather too mountainous, and producing more rye[1789] than
wheat for the food of the inhabitants. The next district, Sabina, is
mountainous, and borders on Tyrrhenia in like manner. The parts of
Latium which border on these districts and the Apennines are very
rugged. These two nations[1790] commence from the Tiber and Tyrrhenia,
and extend as far as the Apennines which advance obliquely towards the
Adriatic: Ombrica extends, as we have said, beyond as far as the sea. We
have now sufficiently described the Ombrici.
CHAPTER III.
1. The Sabini occupy a narrow country, its length from the Tiber and the
small city of Nomentum[1791] to the Vestini being 1000 stadia. They have
but few cities, and these have suffered severely in their continual wars
[with the Romans]. Such are Amiternum[1792] and Reate,[1793] which is
near to the village of Interocrea[1794] and the cold waters at Cotyliæ,
which are taken by patients, both as drink and as baths, for the cure of
various maladies. The rocks of Foruli,[1795] likewise, belong to the
Sabini; fitted rather for rebellion than peaceable habitation. Cures is
now a small village, although formerly a famous city: whence came Titus
Tatius and Numa Pompilius, kings of Rome. From this place is derived the
name of Quirites, which the orators give to the Romans when they address
the people. Trebula,[1796] Eretum,[1797] and other similar places, must
be looked upon rather as villages than cities. The whole land [of
Sabina] is singularly fertile in olive-trees and vines, it produces also
many acorns, and besides has excellent cattle: the mules bred at
Reate[1798] are much celebrated. In one word the whole of Italy is rich
both in cattle and vegetable productions; although certain articles may
be finer in some districts than in others. The race of the Sabini is
extremely ancient, they are Autochthones. The Picentini and Samnitæ
descend from them, as do the Leucani from these latter, and the Bruttii
again from these. A proof of their antiquity may be found in the bravery
and valour which they have maintained till the present time.
Fabius,[1799] the historian, says that the Romans first knew what wealth
was when they became masters of this nation. The Via Salaria, which
however does not extend far, runs through their country: the Via
Nomentana, which commences likewise at the Porta Collina, falls in with
the Via Salaria near to Eretum, a village of Sabina lying above the
Tiber.
2. Beyond Sabina is Latium, wherein the city of Rome is situated. It
comprises many places which formed no part of ancient Latium. For the
Æqui, the Volsci, the Hernici, the aborigines around Rome, the Rutuli
who possessed ancient Ardea, and many other nations, some larger, some
smaller, formed so many separate states around Rome, when that city was
first built. Some of these nations, who dwelt in villages, were governed
by their own laws, and subjected to no common tribe. They say[1800] that
Æneas, with his father Anchises and his child Ascanius, arrived at
Laurentum,[1801] near to Ostia and the bank of the Tiber, where he built
a city about 24 stadia above the sea. That Latinus, the king of the
aborigines who then dwelt on the site where Rome now stands, employed
his forces to aid Æneas against the neighbouring Rutuli who inhabited
Ardea, (now from Ardea to Rome is a distance of 160 stadia,) and having
gained a victory, he built near to the spot a city, to which he gave the
name of his daughter Lavinia. However, in a second battle, commenced by
the Rutuli, Latinus fell, and Æneas, being conqueror, [CAS. 229]
succeeded this prince on the throne, and conferred on his subjects the
name of Latini. After the death both of himself and his father, Ascanius
founded Alba,[1802] on Mount Albanus,[1803] situated about the same
distance from Rome as Ardea. Here Romans and Latini conjointly offer
sacrifice to Jupiter. The magistracy all assemble, and during the period
of the solemnity the government of the city is intrusted to some
distinguished youth.
The facts related of Amulius and his brother
Numitor, some of which are fictitious, while others approach nearer the
truth, occurred four hundred years later. These two brothers, who were
descended from Ascanius, succeeded conjointly to the government of Alba,
which extended as far as the Tiber. However, Amulius the younger, having
expelled the elder, governed [alone]. Numitor had a son and a daughter;
the former Amulius treacherously murdered in the chase; the latter, that
she might remain childless, he made a priestess of Vesta, thus imposing
virginity upon her. This [daughter] they name Rhea Silvia. Afterwards he
discovered that she was pregnant, and when she had given birth to twins,
he, out of respect to his brother, placed her in confinement, instead of
putting her to death, and exposed the boys by the Tiber according to a
national usage. According to the mythology, Mars was the father of these
children, and when they were exposed they were discovered and suckled by
a she-wolf. Faustulus, one of the swine-herds of the place, took and
reared them up, and named one Romulus, the other Remus. (We must
understand that Faustulus, who took them up and nourished them, was an
influential man, and a subject of Amulius. ) Having arrived at man’s
estate, they waged war upon Amulius and his sons; and having slain them,
restored the government to Numitor. They then returned home and founded
Rome, in a locality selected rather through necessity than choice, as
the site was neither fortified by nature, nor sufficiently large for a
city of importance. In addition to this, the neighbourhood supplied no
inhabitants; for those who dwelt around, even though touching the very
walls of the newly founded city, kept to themselves, and would have
nothing at all to do with the Albani. Collatia, Antemnæ, Fidenæ,
Labicum,[1804] and similar places are here alluded to which then were
small cities, but are now villages possessed by private individuals;
they are distant from Rome 30 or 40[1805] stadia, or rather more.
Between the fifth and sixth mile-stone which marks the distance from
Rome there is a place named Festi; this they say was at that time the
limit of the Roman territory, and at the present day, both here and in
numerous other places which they consider to have been boundaries, the
priests offer the sacrifice denominated Ambarvia. [1806] They say that,
at the time of the foundation [CAS. 230] [of the city], a dispute arose
in which Remus lost his life. The city being built, Romulus assembled
men from every quarter, and instituted for an asylum a grove between the
citadel and the Capitol, to which whoever fled from the neighbouring
states, he proclaimed as Roman citizens. Not having wives for these men,
he appointed a horse-race in honour of Neptune, which is celebrated to
this day. Numbers [of spectators] having assembled, particularly of the
Sabini, he commanded that each of those who were in want of a wife,
should carry off one of the assembled maidens. Titus Tatius, king of the
Quirites, took up arms to avenge the insult, but made peace with Romulus
on condition that their kingdoms should be united, and that they should
divide the sovereignty between them. Tatius, however, was treacherously
assassinated in Lavinium, upon which Romulus, with the consent of the
Quirites, reigned alone. After him Numa Pompilius, formerly a subject of
Tatius, assumed the government, by the general desire of the people.
Such is the most authentic account of the foundation of Rome.
3. However, there also exists another more ancient and mythical account,
to the effect that Rome was an Arcadian colony planted by Evander. He
entertained Hercules when driving the oxen of Geryon, and being informed
by his mother Nicostrata, (who was skilled in the art of prophecy,) that
when Hercules should have completed his labours it was fore-ordained
that he should be enrolled amongst the gods; he informed him of the
matter, consecrated to him a grove, and offered sacrifice to him after
the Grecian mode; a sacrifice which is continued in honour of Hercules
to this day. The Roman historian Cœlius is of opinion that this is a
proof that Rome is a Grecian colony, the sacrifice to Hercules after the
Grecian mode having been brought over from their fatherland. The Romans
also worship the mother of Evander under the name of Carmentis,[1807]
considering her one of the nymphs.
4. Thus then the Latini originally were few in number, and for the most
part under no subjection to the Romans; but afterwards, being struck by
the valour of Romulus and the kings who succeeded him, they all
submitted. But the Æqui,[1808] the Volsci, the Hernici; and before them
the Rutuli, the aborigines, the Rhæci, together with certain of the
[CAS. 231] Argyrusci and the Preferni,[1809] being subdued, the whole of
their different countries were included under the name of Latium. To the
Volsci pertained the Pomentine plain, bordering on the territory of the
Latini, and the city of Apiola, levelled to the ground[1810] by
Tarquinius Priscus. The Æqui principally were neighbours to the
Quirites, whose cities Tarquinius Priscus likewise devastated. His son
took Suessa,[1811] the metropolis of the Volsci. The Hernici dwelt near
to Lanuvium, Alba, and to Rome itself; neither were Aricia,[1812] the
Tellenæ, and Antium[1813] at any great distance. The Albani were at
first friendly with the Romans, speaking as they did the same language,
and being likewise of the Latin stock; and though they were under
separate governments, this did not prevent them from marrying together,
nor from performing in common the sacred ceremonies at Alba, and other
civil rites. In after-time, however, war having sprung up, Alba was
entirely destroyed with the exception of the temple, and the Albani were
declared citizens of Rome. Of the other surrounding cities, those which
resisted were either destroyed or enfeebled, while others, which were
friendly to the Romans, flourished. At the present day the coast from
Ostia to the city of Sinuessa[1814] is denominated the Latin coast;
formerly the country thus designated extended only so far as
Circæum. [1815] The interior also [of Latium] was formerly small; but it
afterwards extended to Campania, the Samnitæ, the Peligni,[1816] and
other nations dwelling around the Apennines.
5. The whole [of Latium] is fertile, and abounding in every production,
with the exception of a few districts along the coast, which are marshy
and unhealthy; such as the country of Ardea, the lands between Antium
and Lanuvium as far as Pometia, and certain of the districts of
Setia,[1817] Terracina, and Circæum. Some parts may also be too
mountainous and rocky; but even these are not absolutely idle and
useless, since they furnish abundant pasturage, wood, and the peculiar
productions of the marsh and rock; while Cæcubum, which is entirely
marshy, nourishes a vine, the dendritis,[1818] which produces the most
excellent wine. Of the maritime cities of Latium, one is Ostia. This
city has no port, owing to the accumulation of the alluvial deposit
brought down by the Tiber, which is swelled by numerous rivers; vessels
therefore bring to anchor further out, but not without danger; however,
gain overcomes every thing, for there is an abundance of lighters in
readiness to freight and unfreight the larger ships, before they
approach the mouth of the river, and thus enable them to perform their
voyage speedily. Being lightened of a part of their cargo, they enter
the river and sail up to Rome, a distance of about 190 stadia. Such is
the city of Ostia, founded by Ancus Martius. Next in order comes Antium,
which city is likewise destitute of any port; it is situated on rocks,
and about 260 stadia distant from Ostia. At the present day it is
devoted to the leisure and recreation of statesmen from their political
duties, whenever they can find time, and is in consequence covered with
sumptuous mansions suited to such rusticating. The inhabitants of Antium
had formerly a marine, and even after they were under subjection to the
Romans, took part with the Tyrrhenian pirates. Of this, first, Alexander
sent to complain; after him Demetrius, having taken many of these
pirates, sent them to the Romans, saying that he would surrender them
their persons on account of their affinity to the Greeks, and remarking
at the same time, that it seemed to him a great impropriety, that those
who held sway over the whole of Italy should send out pirates, and that
they who had consecrated in their forum a temple to the honour of the
Dioscuri,[1819] whom all denominated the Saviours, should likewise send
to commit acts of piracy on Greece, which was the fatherland of those
divinities. Hereupon the Romans put a stop to this occupation [piracy].
Between these two cities is Lavinium, which contains a temple of Venus
common to all the Latini, the care of which is intrusted to the priests
of [CAS. 232] Ardea. After this is Laurentum;[1820] and above these lies
Ardea, a colony of the Rutuli, 70 stadia from the sea; near to it is
another temple of Venus, where all the Latini hold a public festival.
These regions have been ravaged by the Samnitæ, and only the traces of
the cities left; but even these are reverenced on account of the arrival
of Æneas here, and of the religious rites which they say were bequeathed
from those times.
6. At 290 stadia from Antium is Mount Circæum, insulated by the sea and
marshes. They say that it contains numerous roots, but this perhaps is
only to harmonize with the myth relating to Circe. It has a small city,
together with a temple to Circe and an altar to Minerva; they likewise
say that a cup is shown which belonged to Ulysses. Between [Antium and
Circæum] is the river Stura,[1821] which has a station for ships: the
rest of the coast is exposed to the south-west wind,[1822] with the
exception of this small harbour of Circæum. [1823] Above this, in the
interior, is the Pomentine plain: the region next to this was formerly
inhabited by the Ausonians, who likewise possessed Campania: next after
these the Osci, who also held part of Campania; now, however, as we have
remarked, the whole, as far as Sinuessa, belongs to the Latini. A
peculiar fate has attended the Osci and Ausonians; for although the Osci
have ceased to exist as a distinct tribe, their dialect is extant among
the Romans, dramatic and burlesque pieces composed in it being still
represented at certain games which were instituted in ancient times. And
as for the Ausonians, although they never have dwelt by the sea of
Sicily,[1824] it is named the Ausonian Sea. At 100 stadia from Circæum
is Tarracina, formerly named Trachina,[1825] on account of its
ruggedness; before it is a great marsh, formed by two rivers, the larger
of which is called the Aufidus. [1826] This is the first place where the
Via Appia approaches the sea. This road is paved from Rome to
Brundusium,[1827] and has great traffic. Of the maritime cities, these
alone are situated on it; Tarracina, beyond it Formiæ,[1828]
Minturnæ,[1829] Sinuessa,[1830] and towards its extremity Tarentum and
Brundusium. Near to Tarracina, advancing in the direction of Rome, a
canal runs by the side of the Via Appia, which is supplied at intervals
by water from the marshes and rivers. Travellers generally sail up it by
night, embarking in the evening, and landing in the morning to travel
the rest of their journey by the way: however, during the day the
passage boat is towed by mules. [1831] Beyond is Formiæ, founded by the
Lacedæmonians, and formerly called Hormiæ, on account of its excellent
port. Between these [two cities],[1832] is a gulf which they have named
Caiata,[1833] in fact all gulfs are called by the Lacedæmonians Caietæ:
some, however, say that the gulf received this appellation from
[Caieta], the nurse of Æneas. From Tarracina to the promontory of Caiata
is a length of 100 stadia. Here[1834] are opened vast caverns, which
contain large and sumptuous mansions. From hence to Formiæ is a distance
of 40 stadia. Between this city and Sinuessa, at a distance of about 80
stadia from each, is Minturnæ. The river Liris,[1835] formerly named the
Clanis, flows through it. It descends from the Apennines, passes through
the country of the Vescini,[1836] and by the village of Fregellæ,
(formerly a famous city,) and so into a sacred grove situated below the
city, and held in great veneration by the people of Minturnæ. There are
two islands, named Pandataria and Pontia,[1837] lying in the high sea,
and clearly discernible from the caverns. Although small, they are well
inhabited, are not at any great distance from each other, and at 250
stadia from the mainland. Cæcubum is situated on the gulf of Caiata, and
next to it Fundi, a city on the Via Appia. All these places produce
excellent wines; but those of Cæcubum, Fundi, and Setia[1838] are most
in repute, and so are the Falernian, Alban,[1839] and Statanian wines.
Sinuessa is situated in a gulf from which it takes its name, sinus
signifying [CAS. 234] [in Latin] a gulf. Near to it are some fine
hot-baths, good for the cure of various maladies. Such are the maritime
cities of Latium.
7. In the interior, the first city above Ostia is Rome; it is the only
city built on the Tiber. It has been remarked above, that its position
was fixed, not by choice, but necessity; to this must be added, that
those who afterwards enlarged it, were not at liberty to select a better
site, being prevented by what was already built. The first [kings]
fortified the Capitol, the Palatium, and the Collis Quirinalis, which
was so easy of access, that when Titus Tatius came to avenge the rape of
the [Sabine] virgins, he took it on the first assault. Ancus Marcius,
who added Mount Cælius and the Aventine Mount with the intermediate
plain, separated as these places were both from each other and from what
had been formerly fortified, was compelled to do this of necessity;
since he did not consider it proper to leave outside his walls, heights
so well protected by nature, to whomsoever might have a mind to fortify
themselves upon them, while at the same time he was not capable of
enclosing the whole as far as Mount Quirinus. Servius perceived this
defect, and added the Esquiline and Viminal hills. As these were both of
easy access from without, a deep trench was dug outside them and the
earth thrown up on the inside, thus forming a terrace of 6 stadia in
length along the inner side of the trench. This terrace he surmounted
with a wall flanked with towers, and extending from the Colline[1840] to
the Esquiline gate. Midway along the terrace is a third gate, named
after the Viminal hill. Such is the Roman rampart, which seems to stand
in need of other ramparts itself. But it seems to me that the first
[founders] were of opinion, both in regard to themselves and their
successors, that Romans had to depend not on fortifications, but on arms
and their individual valour, both for safety and for wealth, and that
walls were not a defence to men, but men were a defence to walls. At the
period of its commencement, when the large and fertile districts
surrounding the city belonged to others, and while it lay easily open to
assault, there was nothing in its position which could be looked upon as
favourable; but when by valour and labour these districts became its
own, there succeeded a tide of prosperity surpassing the advantages of
every other place. Thus, notwithstanding the prodigious increase of the
city, there has been plenty of food, and also of wood and stone for
ceaseless building, rendered necessary by the falling down of houses,
and on account of conflagrations, and of the sales, which seem never to
cease. These sales are a kind of voluntary falling down of houses, each
owner knocking down and rebuilding one part or another according to his
individual taste. For these purposes the numerous quarries, the forests,
and the rivers which convey the materials, offer wonderful facilities.
Of these rivers, the first is the Teverone,[1841] which flows from Alba,
a city of the Latins near to the country of the Marsi, and from thence
through the plain below this [city], till it unites with the Tiber.
After this come the Nera[1842] and the Timia,[1843] which passing
through Ombrica fall into the Tiber, and the Chiana,[1844] which flows
through Tyrrhenia and the territory of Clusium. [1845] Augustus Cæsar
endeavoured to avert from the city damages of the kind alluded to, and
instituted a company of freedmen, who should be ready to lend their
assistance in cases of conflagration;[1846] whilst, as a preventive
against the falling of houses, he decreed that all new buildings should
not be carried so high as formerly, and that those erected along the
public ways should not exceed seventy feet in height. [1847] But these
improvements must have ceased only for the facilities afforded by the
quarries, the forests, and the ease of transport.
8. These advantages accrued to the city from the nature of the country;
but the foresight of the Romans added others [CAS. 235] besides. The
Grecian cities are thought to have flourished mainly on account of the
felicitous choice made by their founders, in regard to the beauty and
strength of their sites, their proximity to some port, and the fineness
of the country. But the Roman prudence was more particularly employed on
matters which had received but little attention from the Greeks, such as
paving their roads, constructing aqueducts, and sewers, to convey the
sewage of the city into the Tiber. In fact, they have paved the roads,
cut through hills, and filled up valleys, so that the merchandise may be
conveyed by carriage from the ports. The sewers, arched over with hewn
stones, are large enough in some parts for waggons loaded with hay to
pass through; while so plentiful is the supply of water from the
aqueducts, that rivers may be said to flow through the city and the
sewers, and almost every house is furnished with water-pipes and copious
fountains. To effect which Marcus Agrippa directed his special
attention; he likewise bestowed upon the city numerous ornaments. We may
remark, that the ancients, occupied with greater and more necessary
concerns, paid but little attention to the beautifying of Rome. But
their successors, and especially those of our own day, without
neglecting these things, have at the same time embellished the city with
numerous and splendid objects. Pompey, divus Cæsar, and Augustus, with
his children, friends, wife, and sister, have surpassed all others in
their zeal and munificence in these decorations. The greater number of
these may be seen in the Campus Martius, which to the beauties of nature
adds those of art. The size of the plain is marvellous, permitting
chariot-races and other feats of horsemanship without impediment, and
multitudes to exercise themselves at ball,[1848] in the circus[1849] and
the palæstra. The structures which surround it, the turf covered with
herbage all the year round, the summits of the hills beyond the Tiber,
extending from its banks with panoramic effect, present a spectacle
which the eye abandons with regret. Near to this plain is another
surrounded with columns, sacred groves, three theatres, an amphitheatre,
and superb temples in close contiguity to each other; and so
magnificent, that it would seem idle to describe the rest of the city
after it. For this cause the Romans, esteeming it as the most sacred
place, have there erected funeral monuments to the most illustrious
persons of either sex. The most remarkable of these is that designated
as the Mausoleum,[1850] which consists of a mound of earth raised upon a
high foundation of white marble, situated near the river, and covered to
the top with ever-green shrubs. Upon the summit is a bronze statue of
Augustus Cæsar, and beneath the mound are the ashes[1851] of himself,
his relatives, and friends. Behind is a large grove containing charming
promenades. In the centre of the plain,[1852] is the spot where this
prince was reduced to ashes; it is surrounded with a double enclosure,
one of marble, the other of iron, and planted within with poplars. If
from hence you proceed to visit the ancient forum, which is equally
filled with basilicas, porticos, and temples, you will there behold the
Capitol, the Palatium, with the noble works which adorn them, and the
piazza of Livia, each successive place causing you speedily to forget
what you have before seen. Such is Rome.
9. Of the other cities of Latium, some are distinguished by a variety of
remarkable objects, others by the celebrated roads which intersect
Latium, being situated either upon, or near to, or between these roads,
the most celebrated of which are the Via Appia, the Via Latina, and the
Via Valeria. The former of these bounds the maritime portion of Latium,
as far as Sinuessa, the latter extends along Sabina as far as the Marsi,
whilst between these is the Via Latina, which falls in with the Via
Appia near to Casilinum,[1853] a city distant from Capua[1854] 19
stadia. The Via Latina commences from the Via Appia, branching from it
towards the left, near to Rome. It passes over the Tusculan mountain,
between the city of Tusculum[1855] and Mount Albanus; it then descends
to the little city of Algidum,[1856] and the Pictæ tavern; afterwards
the Via [CAS. 237] Lavicana joins it, which commences, like the Via
Prænestina, from the Esquiline gate. This road, as well as the Esquiline
plain, the Via Lavicana leaves on the left; it then proceeds a distance
of 120 stadia, or more, when it approaches Lavicum, an ancient city now
in ruins, situated on an eminence; this and Tusculum it leaves on the
right, and terminates near to Pictæ in the Via Latina. This place is 210
stadia distant from Rome. Proceeding thence along the Via Latina there
are noble residences, and the cities Ferentinum,[1857] Frusino,[1858] by
which the river Cosa flows, Fabrateria,[1859] by which flows the river
Sacco,[1860] Aquinum,[1861] a large city, by which flows the great river
Melfa,[1862] Interamnium, situated at the confluence of two rivers, the
Garigliano and another, Casinum, also an important city, and the last of
those belonging to Latium. For Teanum, called Sidicinum,[1863] which
lies next in order, shows by its name that it belongs to the nation of
the Sidicini. These people are Osci, a surviving nation of the Campani,
so that this city, which is the largest of those situated upon the Via
Latina, may be said to be Campanian; as well as that of Cales,[1864]
another considerable city which lies beyond, and is contiguous to
Casilinum. [1865]
10. As to the places situated on either side of the Via Latina, those on
the right are between it and the Via Appia; of their number are
Setia[1866] and Signia,[1867] which produce wine, that of Setia being
one of the dearest wines, and that called Signium the best for
strengthening the stomach. Before this[1868] are Privernum,[1869]
Cora,[1870] Suessa,[1871] ‘Trapontium,’[1872] Velitræ,[1873]
Aletrium,[1874] and also Fregellæ,[1875] by which the Garigliano flows,
which discharges itself [into the sea] near Minturnæ. Fregellæ, though
now a village, was formerly a considerable city, and the chief of the
surrounding places we have just named. Even now their inhabitants throng
to it on market days, and for the performance of certain religious
solemnities. Its defection from the Romans was the cause of its
ruin. [1876] Both these, and also the cities lying on the Via Latina and
beyond, situated in the territories of the Hernici, Æqui, and Volsci,
were for the most part founded by the Romans. To the left of the Via
Latina, the cities between it and the Via Valeria, are, Gabii,[1877]
standing in the Via Prænestina, it possesses a stone-quarry, in greater
demand at Rome than any other, and is at an equal distance of about 100
stadia between Rome and Præneste. [1878] Then Præneste, of which we shall
have occasion presently to speak. Then, in the mountains above Præneste,
Capitulum, a small city of the Hernici, and Anagnia,[1879] a
considerable city; Cereate,[1880] and Sora, by which the river
Garigliano[1881] flows as it passes on to Fregellæ, and Minturnæ. After
these there are other places, and finally, Venafrum,[1882] from whence
comes the finest oil. This city is situated on a high hill by the foot
of which flows the Volturno,[1883] which passing by Casilinum,[1884]
discharges itself [into the sea] at a city[1885] bearing the same name
as itself. Æsernia[1886] and Alliphæ,[1887] cities of the Samnites, the
former was destroyed in the Marsian war,[1888] the other still remains.
11. The Via Valeria, commencing from Tibura,[1889] leads to the country
of the Marsi, and to Corfinium,[1890] the metropolis of the Peligni.
Upon it are situated the Latin cities of Valeria,[1891] Carseoli,[1892]
Alba,[1893] and near to it the city of Cuculum. [1894] Within sight of
Rome are Tibura, Præneste, and Tusculum. [1895] At Tibura is a temple of
Hercules, and a cataract formed by the fall of the Teverone,[1896]
(which is here navigable,) from a great height into a deep and wooded
ravine close to the city. From thence the river flows through a highly
fertile plain along by [CAS. 238] the Tiburtine stone-quarries, those of
the Gabii, and those denominated the red-stone quarries. As both the
carriage from the quarries and the conveyance by river are easy, most of
the Roman edifices are built of materials from hence. In this plain flow
the cold waters called Albula, they spring from numerous fountains, and
are taken both as a beverage and as baths,[1897] for the cure of various
diseases. Of the same kind are the Labanæ,[1898] not far from these, on
the Via Nomentana, and near to Eretum. [1899] At Præneste is the
celebrated temple and oracle of Fortune. Both this and the preceding
city are situated on the same chain of mountains, and are distant from
each other 100 stadia. Præneste is 200 stadia from Rome, Tibura less
than that distance. They are said to be both of Grecian foundation,
Præneste being formerly named Polystephanus. They are both fortified,
but Præneste is the stronger place of the two, having for its citadel a
lofty mountain, which overhangs the town, and is divided at the back
from the adjoining mountain range by a neck of land. This mountain is
two stadia higher than the neck in direct altitude. In addition to these
[natural] defences, the city is furnished on all sides with
subterraneous passages, which extend to the plains, and some of which
serve to convey water, while others form secret ways; it was in one of
these that Marius[1900] perished, when he was besieged. Other cities are
in most instances benefited by a strong position, but to the people of
Præneste it has proved a bane, owing to the civil wars of the Romans.
For hither the revolutionary movers take refuge, and when at last they
surrender, in addition to the injury sustained by the city during the
war, the country is confiscated, and the guilt thus imputed to the
guiltless. The river Verestis[1901] flows through this region. The said
cities are to the east of Rome.
12. But within-side the chain of mountains, [where these cities are
situated,] there is another ridge, leaving a valley between it and Mount
Algidus; it is lofty, and extends as far as Mount Albanus. [1902] It is
on this ridge that Tusculum is situated, a city which is not wanting in
adornment, being entirely surrounded by ornamental plantations and
edifices, particularly that part of it which looks towards Rome. For on
this side Tusculum presents a fertile hill, well irrigated, and with
numerous gentle slopes embellished with majestic palaces. Contiguous are
the undulating slopes of Mount Albanus, which are equally fertile and
ornamented. Beyond are plains which extend some of them to Rome and its
environs, others to the sea; these latter are unhealthy, but the others
are salubrious and well cultivated. Next after Albanum is the city
Aricia, on the Appian Way. It is 160 stadia from Rome. This place is
situated in a hollow, and has a strong citadel. [1903] Beyond it on one
side of the way is Lanuvium,[1904] a Roman city on the right of the Via
Appia, and from which both the sea and Antium may be viewed. On the
other side is the Artemisium,[1905] which is called Nemus,[1906] on the
left side of the way, leading from Aricia to the temple. [1907] They say
that it is consecrated to Diana Taurica, and certainly the rites
performed in this temple are something barbarous and Scythic. They
appoint as priest a fugitive who has murdered the preceding priest with
his own hand. Apprehensive of an attack upon himself, the priest is
always armed with a sword, ready for resistance. The temple is in a
grove, and before it is a [CAS. 240] lake of considerable size. The
temple and water are surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices, so that
they seem to be situated in a deep and hollow ravine. The springs by
which the lake is filled are visible. One of these is denominated
Egeria, after the name of a certain divinity; however, their course on
leaving the lake is subterraneous, but they may be observed at some
distance, when they rise to the surface of the ground.
13. Near to these localities is Mount Albanus,[1908] which is much
higher than either the Artemisium or the heights surrounding it,
although these are sufficiently lofty and precipitous. It has likewise a
lake,[1909] much larger than that of the Artemisium. Further forward
than these are the cities on the Via Latina, we have already mentioned.
Alba[1910] is the most inland of all the Latin cities; it borders on the
Marsi, and is situated on a high hill near to Lake Fucinus. This [lake]
is vast as a sea, and is of great service to the Marsi and all the
surrounding nations. They say, that at times its waters rise to the
height of the mountains which surround it, and at others subside so
much, that the places which had been covered with water reappear and may
be cultivated; however, the subsidings of the waters occur irregularly
and without previous warning, and are followed by their rising again;
the springs fail altogether and gush out again after a time; as they say
is the case with the Amenanus,[1911] which flows through Catana,[1912]
for after remaining dry for a number of years, it again flows. It is
reported that the Marcian[1913] water, which is drunk at Rome in
preference to any other, has its source in [Lake] Fucinus. As Alba is
situated in the depths of the country, and is besides a strong position,
the Romans have often employed it as a place of security, for lodging
important prisoners.
