No More Learning

For
what is good and honorable,' I added, “gains increase of respect,
not from beauty of person, but from merits directed to the benefit
of human life. '
«Such were the subjects, Socrates, on which, as far as I re-
member, I first conversed seriously with my wife. ”
(
((


## p. 16253 (#603) ##########################################

XENOPHON
16 253
XENOPHON'S ESTATE AT SCILLUS
From the (Anabasis)
X
ENOPHON, after causing an offering to be made for Apollo,
deposited it in the treasury of the Athenians at Delphi,
inscribing on it his own name, and that of Proxenus who
was killed with Clearchus; for he had been his guest-friend.
The portion designed for Diana of Ephesus he left with Mega-
byzus, the warden of that goddess's temple, when he returned
with Agesilaus out of Asia on an expedition to Boeotia, because
he seemed likely to incur some peril: and enjoined him, if he
escaped, to return the money to him; but if he met with an ill
fate, to make such an offering as he thought. would please the
goddess, and dedicate it to her. Afterwards when Xenophon was
banished from his country, and was living at Scillus, a colony
settled by the Lacedæmonians near Olympia, Megabyzus came
to Olympia to see the games, and restored him the deposit.
Xenophon, on receiving it, purchased some land as an offering to
the goddess where the god had directed him. The river Selinus
happens to run through the midst of it; and another river named
Selinus runs close by the temple of Diana at Ephesus: and in
both there are different kinds of fish, and shell-fish. On the
land near Scillus, too, there is hunting of all such beasts as are
taken in the chase. He built also an altar and a temple with the
consecrated money, and continued afterwards to make a sacrifice
every year, always receiving a tenth of the produce of the sea.
sons from the land: and all the people of the town, as well as
the men and women of the neighborhood, took part in the festi-
val; while the goddess supplied those in tents there with barley-
meal, bread, wine, sweetmeats, and a share of the victims offered
from the sacred pastures, and of those caught in hunting: for
the sons of Xenophon, and those of the other inhabitants, always
made a general hunt against the festival, and such of the men as
were willing hunted with them; and there were caught, partly on
the sacred lands and partly on Mount Pholoe, boars and ante-
lopes and deer. This piece of ground lies on the road from
Lacedæmon to Olympia, about twenty stadia from the temple of
Jupiter at Olympia.
There are within the place groves and hills covered with
trees, adapted for the breeding of swine, goats, oxen, and horses;
so that the beasts of the persons coming to the festival are


## p. 16254 (#604) ##########################################

16254
XENOPHON
amply supplied with food. Round the temple itself is planted a
grove of cultivated trees, bearing whatever fruits are eatable in
the different seasons. The edifice is similar, as far as a small
can be to a great one, to that at Ephesus; and the statue is as
like to that at Ephesus as a statue of cypress can be to one of
gold. A pillar stands near the temple, bearing this inscription:
THIS GROUND IS SACRED TO DIANA. HE THAT POSSESSES AND REAPS
THE FRUIT OF IT IS TO
OFFER
EVERY YEAR
THE
TENTH
OF
ITS
PRODUCE, AND TO KEEP THE TEMPLE IN REPAIR FROM THE RESI-
DUE.
IF ANY
ONE FAIL TO PERFORM THESE CONDITIONS, THE
GODDESS WILL TAKE NOTICE OF HIS NEGLECT.
HARDSHIPS IN THE SNOW
From the (Anabasis)
TE
He next day it was thought necessary to march away as fast
as possible, before the enemy's force should be reassembled,
and get possession of the pass. Collecting their baggage
at once, therefore, they set forward through a deep snow, taking
with them several guides; and having the same day passed the
height on which Tiribazus had intended to attack them, they
encamped. Hence they proceeded three days' journey through
a desert tract of country, a distance of fifteen parasangs, to the
river Euphrates, and passed it without being wet higher than the
middle. The sources of the river were said not to be far off.
From hence they advanced three days' march, through much
snow and a level plain, a distance of fifteen parasangs; the third
day's march was extremely troublesome, as the north wind blew
full in their faces, completely parching up everything and be-
numbing the men. One of the augurs, in consequence, advised
that they should sacrifice to the wind: and a sacrifice was accord-
ingly offered; when the vehemence of the wind appeared to every
one manifestly to abate. The depth of the snow was a fathom;
so that many of the baggage cattle and slaves perished, with
about thirty of the soldiers. They continued to burn fires through
the whole night, for there was plenty of wood at the place of
encampment. But those who came up late could get no wood;
those therefore who had arrived before, and had kindled fires,


## p. 16255 (#605) ##########################################

XENOPHON
16255
would not admit the late comers to the fire unless they gave
them a share of the corn or other provisions that they had
brought. Thus they shared with each other what they respect-
ively had. In the places where the fires were made, as the
snow melted, there were formed large pits that reached down to
the ground; and here there was accordingly opportunity to meas-
ure the depth of the snow.
From hence they marched through snow the whole of the
following day, and many of the men contracted the bulimia.
Xenophon, who commanded in the rear, finding in his way such
of the men as had fallen down with it, knew not what disease
it was.
But as one of those acquainted with it told him that
they were evidently affected with bulimia, and that they would
get up if they had something to eat, he went round among the
baggage: and wherever he saw anything eatable, he gave it out,
and sent such as were able to run, to distribute it among those
diseased; who as soon as they had eaten, rose up and continued
their march. As they proceeded, Cheirisophus came, just as it
grew dark, to a village; and found at a spring in front of the
rampart, some women and girls belonging to the place fetching
water. The women asked them who they were; and the inter-
preter answered in the Persian language that they were people
going from the King to the satrap. They replied that he was
not there, but about a parasang off. However, as it was late,
they went with the water-carriers within the rampart, to the
head-man of the village; and here Cheirisophus, and as many of
the troops as could come up, encamped: but of the rest, such as
were unable to get to the end of the journey spent the night on
the way without food or fire; and some of the soldiers lost their
lives on that occasion. Some of the enemy too, who had col-
lected themselves into a body, pursued our rear, and seized any
of the baggage cattle that were unable to proceed, fighting with
one another for the possession of them. Such of the soldiers,
also, as had lost their sight from the effects of the snow, or had
had their toes mortified by the cold, were left behind.
It was
found to be a relief to the eyes against the snow, if the soldiers
kept something black before them on the march; and to the feet,
if they kept constantly in motion, and allowed themselves no
rest, and if they took off their shoes in the night: but as to such
as slept with their shoes on, the straps worked into their feet,
and the soles were frozen about them; for when their old shoes
>


## p. 16256 (#606) ##########################################

16256
XENOPHON
had failed them, shoes of raw hides had been made by the men
themselves from the newly skinned oxen. From such unavoidable
sufferings, some of the soldiers were left behind, - who, seeing
a piece of ground of a black appearance, from the snow having
disappeared there, conjectured that it must have melted; and it
had in fact melted in that spot from the effect of a fountain,
which was sending up vapor in a woody hollow close at hand.
Turning aside thither, they sat down and refused to proceed
farther. Xenophon, who was with the rear-guard, as soon as he
heard this, tried to prevail on them by every art and means not
to be left behind, telling them at the same time that the enemy
were collected, and pursuing them in great numbers. At last he
grew angry; and they told him to kill them, as they were quite
unable to go forward. He then thought it the best course to
strike a terror, if possible, into the enemy that were behind, lest
they should fall upon the exhausted soldiers. It was now dark,
and the enemy were advancing with a great noise, quarreling
about the booty that they had taken; when such of the rear-
guard as were not disabled started up and rushed towards them,
while the tired men, shouting as loud as they could, clashed
their spears against their shields. The enemy, struck with alarm,
threw themselves into the snow of the hollow, and no one of
them afterwards made himself heard from any quarter.
Xenophon and those with him, telling the sick men that a
party should come to their relief next day, proceeded on their
march; but before they had gone four stadia they found other
soldiers resting by the way in the snow, and covered up with it,
no guard being stationed over them. They roused the men, but
the latter said that the head of the army was not moving for.
ward. Xenophon, going past them, and sending on some of the
ablest of the peltasts, ordered them to ascertain what it was
that hindered their progress. They brought word that the whole
army was in that manner taking rest. Xenophon and his men,
therefore, stationing such a guard as they could, took up their
quarters there without fire or supper. When it was near day, he
sent the youngest of his men to the sick, with orders to rouse
them and oblige them to proceed. At this juncture Cheirisophus
sent some of his people from the villages to see how the rear
were faring The young men were rejoiced to see them, and
gave them the sick to conduct to the camp, while they them-
selves went forward; and before they had gone twenty stadia,


## p. 16257 (#607) ##########################################

XENOPHON
16257
found themselves at the village in which Cheirisophus was quar-
tered. When they came together, it was thought safe enough
to lodge the troops up and down in the villages. Cheirisophus
accordingly remained where he was; and the other officers, ap-
propriating by lot the several villages that they had in sight,
went to their respective quarters with their men.
Here Polycrates, an Athenian captain, requested leave of
absence: and taking with him the most active of his men, and
hastening to the village which Xenophon had been allotted, sur-
prised all the villagers and their head-men in their houses,
together with seventeen colts that were bred as a tribute for the
King, and the head-man's daughter, who had been but nine days
married; her husband was gone out to hunt hares, and was not
found in any of the villages. Their houses were under ground:
the entrance like the mouth of a well, but spacious below; there
were passages dug into them for the cattle, but the people de-
scended by ladders. In the houses were goats, sheep, cows, and
fowls, with their young; all the cattle were kept on fodder within
the walls. There were also wheat, barley, leguminous vegetables,
and barley-wine in large bowls: the grains of barley floated in it
even with the brims of the vessels, and reeds also lay in it, some
larger and some smaller, without joints; and these, when any
was thirsty, he was to take in his mouth and suck. The
liquor was very strong unless one mixed water with it, and a
very pleasant drink to those accustomed to it.
Xenophon made the chief man of his village sup with him,
and told him to be of good courage, assuring him that he should
not be deprived of his children, and that they would not go
away without filling his house with provisions in return for what
they took, if he would but prove himself the author of some
service to the army till they should reach another tribe. This
he promised; and to show his good-will, pointed out where some
wine was buried. This night, therefore, the soldiers rested in
their several quarters in the midst of great abundance; setting a
guard over the chief, and keeping his children at the same time
under their eye. The following day Xenophon took the head-
man and went with him to Cheirisophus; and wherever he passed
by a village, he turned aside to visit those who were quartered
in it, and found them in all parts feasting and enjoying them-
selves: nor would they anywhere let them go till they had set
refreshments before them; and they placed everywhere upon the
XXVII—1017
one


## p. 16258 (#608) ##########################################

16258
XENOPHON
OX.
same table lamb, kid, pork, veal, and fowl, with plenty of bread
both of wheat and barley. Whenever any person, to pay a com-
pliment, wished to drink to another, he took him to the large
bowl, where he had to stoop down and drink, sucking like an
The chief they allowed to take whatever he pleased, but
he accepted nothing from them; where he found any of his rel-
atives, however, he took them with him.
When they came to Cheirisophus, they found his men also
feasting in their quarters, crowned with wreaths made of hay,
and Armenian boys in their barbarian dresses waiting upon them,
- to whom they made signs what they were to do, as if they
had been deaf and dumb. When Cheirisophus and Xenophon
had saluted one another, they both asked the chief man, through
the interpreter who spoke the Persian language, what country it
was. He replied that it was Armenia. They then asked him for
whom the horses were bred; and he said that they were a trib-
ute for the king, and added that the neighboring country was
that of the Chalybes, and told them in what direction the road
lay. Xenophon then went away, conducting the chief back to his
family: giving him the horse that he had taken, which was rather
old, to fatten and offer in sacrifice (for he had heard that it had
been consecrated to the sun); being afraid, indeed, that it might
die, as it had been injured by the journey. He then took some
of the young horses, and gave one of them to each of the other
generals and captains. The horses in this country were smaller
than those of Persia, but far more spirited. The chief instructed
the men to tie little bags round the feet of the horses and other
cattle when they drove them through the snow; for without such
bags they sunk up to their bellies.
THE EDUCATION OF A PERSIAN BOY
From the Cyropædeia
C"
YRUS is said to have had for his father Cambyses, king of
the Persians. Cambyses was of the race of the Perseidæ,
who were so called from Perseus. It is agreed that he
was born of a mother named Mandane; and Mandane was the
daughter of Astyages, king of the Medes. Cyrus is described,
and is still celebrated by the barbarians, as having been most


## p. 16259 (#609) ##########################################

XENOPHON
16259
handsome in person, most humane in disposition, most eager for
knowledge, and most ambitious of honor; so that he would
undergo any labor and face any danger for the sake of obtain-
ing praise. Such is the constitution of mind and body that he
is recorded to have had; and he was educated in conformity with
the laws of the Persians.
These laws seem to begin with a provident care for the
common good; not where they begin in most other govern-
ments: for most governments, leaving each individual to educate
his children as he pleases, and the advanced in age to live as
they please, enjoin their people not to steal, not to plunder, not
to enter a house by violence, not to strike any one whom it is
wrong to strike, not to be adulterous, not to disobey the magis-
trates, and other such things in like manner; and if people trans-
gress any of these precepts, they impose punishments upon them.
But the Persian laws, by anticipation, are careful to provide
from the beginning that their citizens shall not be such as to
be inclined to any action that is bad and mean. This care they
take in the following manner. They have an agora, called The
Free, where the king's palace and other houses for magistrates
are built: all things for sale, and the dealers in them with their
cries and coarsenesses, are banished from hence to some other
place, that the disorder of these may not interfere with the reg-
ularity of those who are under instruction. This agora, round
the public courts, is divided into four parts: of these, one is
for the boys, one for the youth, one for the full-grown men, and
one for those who are beyond the years for military service.
Each of these divisions, according to the law, attend to their sev-
eral quarters: the boys and full-grown men as soon as it is day;
the elders when they think convenient, except upon appointed
days, when they are obliged to be present. The youth pass the
night round the courts, in their light arms, except such as are
married: for these are not required to do so, unless orders have
been previously given them; nor is it becoming in them to
be often absent. Over each of the classes there are twelve
presidents, for there are twelve distinct tribes of the Persians.
Those over the boys are chosen from amongst the elders, and are
such as are thought likely to make them the best boys; those
over the youth are chosen from amongst the full-grown men,
and are such as are thought likely to make them the best youth;
and over the full-grown men, such as are thought likely to render


## p. 16260 (#610) ##########################################

16260
XENOPHON
them the most expert in performing their appointed duties, and
in executing the orders given by the chief magistrate. There
are likewise chosen presidents over the elders, who take care that
these also perform their duties. What it is prescribed to each
age to do, we shall relate, that it may be the better understood
how the Persians take precautions that excellent citizens may be
produced.
The boys attending the public schools pass their time in
learning justice; and say that they go for this purpose, as those
with us say that they go to learn to read. Their presidents
spend the most part of the day in dispensing justice amongst
them: for there are among the boys, as among the men, accusa-
tions for theft, robbery, violence, deceit, calumny, and other such
things as naturally occur,- and such as they convict of doing
wrong in any of these respects they punish; they punish like-
wise such as they find guilty of false accusation: they appeal to
justice also in the case of a crime for which men hate one an-
other excessively, but for which they never go to law,- that is,
ingratitude; and whomsoever they find able to return a benefit
and not returning it, they punish severely. For they think that
the ungrateful are careless with regard to the gods, their parents,
their country, and their friends; and upon ingratitude seems
closely to follow shamelessness, which appears to be the princi-
pal conductor of mankind into all that is dishonorable.
They also teach the boys self-control; and it contributes
much towards their learning to control themselves, that they see
every day their elders behaving themselves with discretion. They
teach them also to obey their officers; and it contributes much to
this end, that they see their elders constantly obedient to their
officers. They teach them temperance with respect to eating and
drinking: and it contributes much to this object, that they see
that their elders do not quit their stations to satisfy their appe-
tites, until their officers dismiss them; and that the boys them-
selves do not eat with their mothers, but with their teachers, and
when the officers give the signal. They bring from home with
them bread, and a sort of cresses to eat with it; and a cup to
drink from, that if any are thirsty they may take water from
the river. They learn, besides, to shoot with the bow and to
throw the javelin. These exercises the boys practice till they
are sixteen or seventeen years of age, when they enter the class
of young men.


## p. 16261 (#611) ##########################################

16261
ARTHUR YOUNG
(1741-1820)
won
N 1787, an English country gentleman — “a Suffolk farmer,”
he calls himself — visited France with quite other purposes
than those of ordinary tourists. He wished to study the
country from an agricultural point of view; to examine the land
and methods of cultivation in different parts, and by comparing them
with those at home, to obtain valuable suggestions. Comparatively
poor himself, he wished to fill “the humble office of venturing hints
to those whose situation allows more active exertions. ” During his
first trip, and a second one taken in 1788,
he explored western France. In 1789-90 he
examined the eastern and southern portions
of the country. The record of his observa-
tions, published in successive parts, and
later united under the same title of Trav-
els in France,' proved a unique book of
permanent value.
His handsome person and genial ingra-
tiating manners the French to un-
reserve and friendliness. He talked with
peasants and tradespeople. He visited in
the châteaux of the nobility. Just as the
Revolution was breaking out in France, ARTHUR YOUNG
when the old régime was on the point of
extinction, this clear-sighted foreigner took careful copious notes of
the state in which he found land and people.
Although appreciating the seriousness of what was taking place
in the country, he evidently had no premonition of its historical sig-
nificance. His view of the present was unbiased by anticipation of
the future. The resulting simplicity of statement is what renders
him authoritative.
He was a simple truth-seeker, and absolutely impartial.
He was
not dazzled by the magnificence of Versailles, or in the least disposed
to accept conventional statements; but judged everything with his
own eyes and ears. Although deeply interested in the great govern-
mental issues of the time, they were not his vital concern. It was
«inconvenient to travel while the country was so unsettled,” while

((


## p. 16262 (#612) ##########################################

16262
ARTHUR YOUNG
a mob might murder one on a moment's mad suspicion, and while
châteaux were being fired and their inhabitants cruelly expelled.
But the English traveler merely assumed the tricolor and went
serenely on his way, noting the distribution of population, the stu-
pid ignorance of the peasants about events at Paris, and the hard
domination of the nobles, which resulted in the mismanagement of
land. His style was terse and graphic; and his practical point of
view gave authoritative value to a work, the like of which had never
before been attempted. His book soon became popular in French
translation. French land-owners profited by his demonstration of
their errors, and adopted his theories upon their estates. Under the
Directory his selected works were translated into French by order
of the government, with the title "Le Cultivateur Anglais. Taine and
other historians gladly availed themselves of this fund of accurate
information. The (Travels) became known throughout Europe; and
Young received invitations to visit various courts, and to become a
member of prominent agricultural societies.
When Arthur Young went to France, at the solicitation of his French
friend the Duke de la Rochefoucauld de Liancourt, he was a man of
forty-six, and had already a European reputation as an agriculturist.
But before arriving at this brilliant success, he had known many
years of failure and discouragement. This revolutionizer of agricult-
ural methods learned the lessons he taught others, through a series
of personal disappointments. He was the inevitable martyr in the
promulgation of new ideas. He could show others how to gain money
at farming, although nearly always impoverished when he tried it
himself.
Arthur Young, who was born in London, September uth, 1741,
lived most of his life at Bradfield Hall in Suffolk. His father, the
rector of Bradfield, a prebendary of Canterbury Cathedral, and the
chaplain of Arthur Onslow, Speaker of the House of Commons, wished
his son to go to a university, and become a clergyman like himself.
This Arthur Young's mother strongly opposed; and when he had
finished his school days at Lavenham, he was at her desire placed
with a wine merchant at Lynn. Business was distasteful to him, and
he soon forsook it. He passed several years rather aimlessly, and
then drifted into farming; chiefly because his mother had a farm
which she wished to turn over to his care, and because he did not
know what else to do. He soon found he was losing money, and
after some three thousand experiments in cultivation he changed to
a larger farm in Essex; there too he was unfortunate, and after five
years was glad to pay a more practical farmer £100 to take it off
his hands. He had not lost interest in spite of his failures, and the
latter had taught him practical insight. He decided to travel about


## p. 16263 (#613) ##########################################

ARTHUR YOUNG
16263
the country in search of land which could be profitably cultivated;
and he thus gained a wide knowledge of prevailing conditions, which
he published in a number of successful volumes. A hater of slavery, a
Free-Trader, an idolatrous admirer of Rousseau, he studied all ques-
tions from a philosophic as well as utilitarian point of view. The
(Farmer's Tour through the East of England,' the “Tour in Ireland,
(A Six-Weeks' Tour through the Southern Counties of England and
Wales, (A Six-Months' Tour through the North of England,' were
valuable expositions, full of wise suggestions. They embraced also
questions of population and political economy. These, with many
essays upon kindred subjects contributed to agricultural journals,
made his theory more profitable to him than his practice. In Ire-
land he met Lord Kingsborough; who, strongly attracted by his
scientific views, intrusted him with the management of his great
estate, in which he was brilliantly successful.
In 1783 he inaugurated (The Annals of Agriculture,' a monumental
work in forty-five quarto volumes, of which he was editor, and for
which he wrote many papers.
Many learned men were among its
contributors, and George III. is said to have written for it over the
name of Ralph Robinson. The Annals, definitely established his
reputation. Bradfield Hall, which belonged to him after the death
of his mother in 1785, became a kind of academy of agriculture.
Among those who came to study farming under his direction were
the nephew of the Polish ambassador, and three young Russians sent
by the Empress Catherine. Many English and foreign friends of note
visited him; and particularly, after the appearance of the Travels,'
he received and corresponded with many brilliant statesmen,- with
Washington, Pitt, Burke, Lafayette, and others.
A few years after Arthur Young's return from his last French
journey, the Board of Agriculture was established by act of Parlia-
ment. Such a board had long been one of his favorite projects; and
he was fittingly made its secretary, with a salary of £600.
Fanny Burney's vivacious pen has given a vivid impression of
Arthur Young's delightful personality. At the age of twenty-four he
married her stepmother's sister, Miss Martha Allen, - not an amiable
lady, from all accounts, — with whom he was not happy. Probably
he was glad to escape home friction in the society of the gay and
congenial Burneys. Miss Burney describes him as witty and hand-
some, and fond of fine clothes. Sometimes he is in the depths of
depression over his unlucky speculations; but he soon throws off care,
and is hopefully ready for a new experiment.
When about sixty-six he became totally blind; in spite of which
calamity he continued busy, and intelligently interested in public
events, until his death in London, April 20th, 1820.


## p. 16264 (#614) ##########################################

16264
ARTHUR YOUNG
ASPECTS OF FRANCE BEFORE THE REVOLUTION
From Travels in France)
HE .
T*Liancourt are pretty, and spread with a sort of cultivation
I had never seen before,- a mixture of vineyards (for here
the vines first appeared), gardens, and corn. A piece of wheat,
a scrap of lucerne, a patch of clover or vetches, a bit of vine,
with cherry and other fruit trees scattered among all, and the
whole cultivated with the spade: it makes a pretty appearance,
but must form a poor system of trifling.
Chantilly. - Magnificence is its reigning character; it is never
lost. There is not taste or beauty enough to soften it into
milder features: all but the château is great, and there is some-
thing imposing in that; except the gallery of the great Condé's
battles and the cabinet of natural history,' which is rich in very
fine specimens, most advantageously arranged, it contains nothing
that demands particular notice; nor is there one room which in
England would be called large. The stable is truly great, and
exceeds very much indeed anything of the kind I had ever seen.
It is 580 feet long and 40 feet broad, and is sometimes filled
with 240 English horses. I had been so accustomed to the imi-
tation in water of the waving and irregular lines of nature, that
I came to Chantilly prepossessed against the idea of a canal;
but the view of one here is striking, and has the effect which
magnificent scenes impress. It arises from extent, and from
the right lines of the water uniting with the regularity of the
objects in view. It is Lord Kames, I think, who says the part
of the garden contiguous to the house should partake of the
regularity of the building; with much magnificence about a place
this is unavoidable. The effect here however is lessened by the
parterre before the castle, in which the division and the diminu-
tive jets d'eau are not of a size to correspond with the magnifi-
cence of the canal. The menagerie is very pretty, and exhibits
a prodigious variety of domestic poultry from all parts of the
world, - one of the best objects to which a menagerie can be
applied; these and the Corsican stag had all my attention. The
hameau contains an imitation of an English garden; the taste is
but just introduced into France, so that it will not stand a criti-
cal examination. The most English idea I saw is the lawn in


## p. 16265 (#615) ##########################################

ARTHUR YOUNG
16265.
front of the stables; it is large, of a good verdure, and well
kept, — proving clearly that they may have as fine lawns in the
north of France as in England. The labyrinth is the only com-
plete one I have seen, and I have no inclination to see another:
it is in gardening what a rebus is in poetry. In the sylvæ are
a
many very fine and scarce plants. I wish those persons who
view Chantilly, and are fond of fine trees, would not forget to
ask for the great beech; this is the finest I ever saw, straight as
an arrow, and as I guess, not less than 80 or go feet high, – 40
feet to the first branch, and 12 feet diameter at five from the
ground. It is in all respects one of the finest trees that can
anywhere be met with. Two others are near it, but not equal
to this superb one. The forest around Chantilly, belonging to
the Prince of Condé, is immense, spreading far and wide; the
Paris road crosses it for ten miles, which is its least extent.
They say the capitainerie, or paramountship, is above 100 miles
in circumference. This is to say, all the inhabitants for that
extent are pestered with game, without permission to destroy it,
in order to give one man diversion. Ought not these capitaine-
ries to be extirpated ?
On the breaking up of the party, went with Count Alexandre
de la Rochefoucauld post to Versailles, to be present at the fête
of the day following (Whitsunday); slept at the Duke de Lian-
court's hôtel.
The 27th. - Breakfasted with him at his apartments in the
palace, which are annexed to his office of grand master of the
wardrobe, one of the principal in the court of France. Here I
found the duke surrounded by a circle of noblemen, among
whom was the Duke de la Rochefoucauld, well known for his
attention to natural history; I was introduced to him, as he is
going to Bagnères-de-Luchon in the Pyrenees, where I am to
have the honor of being in his party.
The ceremony of the day was the King's investing the
Duke of Berri, son of the Count d'Artois, with the cordon bleu.
The Queen's band was in the chapel where the ceremony was
performed, but the musical effect was thin and weak. During
the service the King was seated between his two brothers, and
seemed by his carriage and inattention to wish himself a-hunting.
He would certainly have been as well employed as in hearing
afterwards from his throne a feudal oath of chivalry, I suppose,


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ARTHUR YOUNG
or some such nonsense, administered to a boy of ten years old.
Seeing such pompous folly I imagined it was the dauphin, and
asked a lady of fashion near me; at which she laughed in my
face, as if I had been guilty of the most egregious idiotism: noth-
ing could be done in a worse manner; for the stifling of her
expression only marked it the more. I applied to M. de la
Rochefoucauld to learn what gross absurdity I had been guilty
of so unwittingly; when, forsooth, it was because the dauphin, as
all the world knows in France, has the cordon bleu put around
him as soon as he is born. So unpardonable was it for a for-
eigner to be ignorant of such an important part of French his-
tory, as that of giving a babe a blue slobbering-bib instead of a
white one!
The 31st. — On leaving it, enter soon the miserable province
of Sologne, which the French writers call the triste Sologne.
Through all this country they have had severe spring frosts, for
che leaves of the walnuts are black and cut off. I should not
have expected this unequivocal mark of a bad climate after pass-
ing the Loire. To La Ferté Lowendahl, a dead flat of hungry
sandy gravel, with much heath. The poor people who cultivate
the soil here are métayers,—that is, men who hire the land
without ability to stock it; the proprietor is forced to provide
cattle and seed, and he and his tenant divide the produce: a mis-
erable system, that perpetuates poverty and excludes instruction.
Meet a man employed on the roads who was prisoner at Fal-
mouth four years; he does not seem to have any rancor against
the English, nor yet was he very well pleased with his treatment.
At La Ferté is a handsome château of the Marquis de Croix,
with several canals and a great command of water. To Nonant-
le-Fuzelier, a strange mixture of sand and water. Much in
closed: and the houses and cottages of wood filled between the
studs with clay or bricks, and covered not with slate but tile,
with some barns boarded like those in Suffolk, rows of pollards
in some of the hedges, an excellent road of sand, the general
features of a woodland country, — all combined to give a strong
resemblance to many parts of England; but the husbandry is so
little like that of England that the least attention to it destroyed
every notion of similarity. -27 miles.
June 1. - The same wretched country continues to La Loge;
the fields are scenes of pitiable management, as the houses are


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ARTHUR YOUNG
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a
of misery. Yet all this country highly improvable, if they knew
what to do with it: the property, perhaps, of some of those glit-
tering beings who figured in the procession the other day at
Versailles. Heaven grant me patience while I see a country thus
neglected, and forgive me the oaths I swear at the absence and
ignorance of the possessors. - Enter the generality of Bourges,
and soon after, a forest of oak belonging to the Count d'Artois;
the trees are dying at top before they attain any size. There
the miserable Sologne ends; the first view of Verson and its
vicinity is fine. A noble vale spreads at your feet, through which
the river Cher leads, seen in several places to the distance of
some leagues; a bright sun burnished the water, like a string of
lakes amidst the shade of a vast woodland.
The 31st. — Cross a mountain by a miserable road, and reach
Beg de Rieux, which shares, with Carcassonne, the fabric of Lon-
drins for the Levant trade. - Cross much waste to Béziers. - I
met to-day with an instance of ignorance in a well-dressed French
merchant, that surprised me. He had plagued me with abund.
ance of tiresome foolish questions, and then asked for the third
or fourth time what country I was of.
I told him I was
Chinese. How far off is that country? – I replied, 200 leagues.
Deux cents lieus! Diable! c'est un grand chemin ! The other
day a Frenchman asked me, after telling him I was an Eng-
lishman, if we had trees in England ? I replied that we had a
few. Had we any rivers ? Oh, none at all. Ah, ma foi, c'est
bien triste ! This incredible ignorance, when compared with
the knowledge so universally disseminated in England, is to be
attributed, like everything else, to government.
The 16th. – Accompanied the Count de la Rochefoucauld to
Liancourt. - 38 miles.
I went thither on a visit for three or four days; but the
whole family contributed so generally to render the place in
every respect agreeable, that I stayed more than three weeks. At
about half a mile from the château is a range of hills that was
chiefly a neglected waste: the Duke of Liancourt has lately con-
verted this into a plantation, with winding walks, benches, and
covered seats, in the English style of gardening. The situation
is very fortunate. These ornamented paths follow the edge of
the declivity to the extent of three or four miles. The views
they command are everywhere pleasing, and in some places great.


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ARTHUR YOUNG
Nearer to the château the Duchess of Liancourt has built a me-
nagerie and dairy in a pleasing taste. The cabinet and ante-
room are very pretty, the saloon elegant, and the dairy entirely
constructed of marble. At a village near Liancourt, the duke
has established a manufacture of linen and stuffs mixed with
thread and cotton, which promises to be of considerable utility;
there are 25 looms employed, and preparations making for more.
As the spinning for these looms is also established, it gives
employment to great numbers of hands who were idle; for they
have no sort of manufacture in the country, though it is popu-
lous. Such efforts merit great praise. Connected with this is
the execution of an excellent plan of the duke's for establishing
habits of industry in the rising generation. The daughters of
the poor people are received into an institution to be educated
to useful industry: they are instructed in their religion, taught
to write and read, and to spin cotton; are kept till marriageable,
and then a regulated proportion of their earnings given them as
a marriage portion. There is another establishment of which I
am not so good a judge: it is for training the orphans of soldiers
to be soldiers themselves. The Duke of Liancourt has raised
some considerable buildings for their accommodation, well adapted
to the purpose.
The whole is under the superintendence of a
worthy and intelligent officer, M. le Roux, captain of dragoons
and croix de St. Louis, who sees to everything himself. There
are at present 120 boys, all dressed in uniform. - My ideas have
all taken a turn which I am too old to change: I should have
been better pleased to see 120 lads educated to the plow, in
habits of culture superior to the present; but certainly the estab-
lishment is humane, and the conduct of it excellent.
The ideas I had formed before I came to France, of a coun-
try residence in that kingdom, I found at Liancourt to be far
from correct. I expected to find it a mere transfer of Paris to
the country, and that all the burthensome forms of a city were
preserved, without its pleasures; but I was deceived, - the mode
of living, and the pursuits, approach much nearer to the habits
of a great nobleman's house in England than would commonly
be conceived. A breakfast of tea for those who chose to repair
.
to it; riding, sporting, planting, gardening, till dinner, and that
not till half-after two o'clock, instead of their old-fashioned hour
of twelve; music, chess, and the other common amusements of


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a rendezvous-room, with an excellent library of seven or eight
thousand volumes, were well calculated to make the time pass
agreeably, and to prove that there is a great approximation in
the modes of living at present in the different countries of
Europe. Amusements, in truth, ought to be numerous within
doors: for in such a climate none are to be depended on with-
out; the rain that has fallen here is hardly credible. I have for
five-and-twenty years past remarked in England that I never
was prevented by rain from taking a walk every day without
going out while it actually rains; it may fall heavily for many
hours, but a person who watches an opportunity gets a walk or
a
a ride. Since I have been at Liancourt, we have had three days
in succession of such incessantly heavy rain, that I could not go
a hundred yards from the house to the duke's pavilion without
danger of being quite wet. For ten days, more rain fell here, I
am confident, had there been a gauge to measure it, than ever
fell in England in thirty. The present fashion in France, of
passing some time in the country, is new: at this time of the
year, and for many weeks past, Paris is, comparatively speaking,
empty. Everybody that have country-seats are at them; and
those who have none visit others who have. This remarkable
revolution in the French manners is certainly one of the best
customs they have taken from England; and its introduction was
effected the easier, being assisted by the magic of Rousseau's
writings. Mankind are much indebted to that splendid genius,
who, when living, was hunted from country to country - to seek
an asylum — with as much venom as if he had been a mad dog;
thanks to the vile spirit of bigotry, which has not yet received
its death's wound. Women of the first fashion in France are
now ashamed of not nursing their own children; and stays are
universally proscribed from the bodies of the poor infants, which
were for so many ages tortured in them, as they are still in
Spain. The country residence may not have effects equally
obvious; but they will be no less sure in the end, and in all
respects beneficial to every class in the State.
The Duke of Liancourt, being president of the provincial
assembly of the election of Clermont, and passing several days
there in business, asked me to dine with the assembly, as he
said there were to be some considerable farmers present. These
assemblies, which had been proposed many years past by the


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ARTHUR YOUNG
French patriots, and especially by the Marquis de Mirabeau, the
celebrated l'ami des hommes; which had been treated by M.
Necker, and which were viewed with eyes of jealousy by certain
persons who wished for no better government than one whose
abuses were the chief foundation of their fortunes,- these as-
semblies were to me interesting to see. I accepted the invitation
with pleasure. Three considerable farmers — renters, not proprie-
-
tors, of land — were members, and present. I watched their car-
riage narrowly to see their behavior in the presence of a great
lord of the first rank, considerable property, and high in royal
favor: and it was with pleasure that I found them behaving with
becoming ease and freedom; and though modest, and without
anything like flippancy, yet without any obsequiousness offens-
ive to English ideas. They started their opinions freely, and
adhered to them with becoming confidence. A most singular
spectacle was to see two ladies present at a dinner of this sort,
with five or six and twenty gentlemen: such a thing could not
happen in England. To say that the French manners in this
respect are better than our own, is the assertion of an obvious
truth. If the ladies are not present at meetings where the con-
versation has the greatest probability of turning on subjects of
more importance than the frivolous topics of common discourse,
the sex must either remain on one hand in ignorance, or on the
other filled with the foppery of over-education, – learned, affected,
and forbidding. The conversation of men not engaged in trifling
pursuits is the best school for the education of a woman.
The 14th. – To the Benedictine abbey of St. Germain, to see
pillars of African marble, etc. It is the richest abbey in France:
the abbot has 300,000 liv. a year (£13,125). I lost my patience at
such revenues being thus bestowed: consistent with the spirit of
the tenth century, but not with that of the eighteenth. What a
noble farm would the fourth of this income establish! . what tur-
nips, what cabbages, what potatoes, what clover, what sheep, what
wool! Are not these things better than a fat ecclesiastic?
active English farmer was mounted behind this abbot, I think he
would do more good to France with half the income than half
the abbots of the kingdom with the whole of theirs. Pass the
Bastile: another pleasant object to make agreeable emotions vi-
brate in a man's bosom, I search for good farmers, and run my
head at every turn against monks and State prisoners.
>
.
If an


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In the evening to M. Lomond, a very ingenious and invent-
ive mechanic, who has made an improvement of the jenny
for spinning cotton. Common machines are said to make too
hard a thread for certain fabrics, but this forms it loose and
spongy.
In electricity he has made a remarkable discovery:
you write two or three words on a paper; he takes it with him
into a room, and turns a machine inclosed in a cylindrical case,
at the top of which is an electrometer, a small fine pith-ball; a
wire connects with a similar cylinder and electrometer in a dis-
tant apartment; and his wife, by remarking the corresponding
motions of the ball, writes down the words they indicate: from
which it appears he has formed an alphabet of motions. As
the length of the wire makes no difference in the effect, a cor
respondence might be carried on at any distance: within and
without a besieged town, for instance; or for a purpose much
more worthy, and a thousand times more harmless,— between
two lovers prohibited or prevented from any better connection.
Whatever the use may be, the invention is beautiful. M. Lomond
has many other curious machines, all the entire work of his own
hands: mechanical invention seems to be in him a natural pro-
pensity.
The 5th. – To Montauban. The poor people seem poor in-
deed; the children terribly ragged, if possible worse clad than if
with no clothes at all; as to shoes and stockings, they are luxu-
ries. A beautiful girl of six or seven years playing with a stick,
and smiling under such a bundle of rags as made my heart ache
to see her: they did not beg, and when I gave them anything
seemed more surprised than obliged. One third of what I have
seen of this province seems uncultivated, and nearly all of it in
misery. What have kings, and ministers, and parliaments, and
States, to answer for their prejudices, seeing millions of hands
that would be industrious, idle and starving through the execra-
ble maxims of despotism, or the equally detestable prejudices
of a feudal nobility! Sleep at the Lion d'Or, at Montauban, an
abominable hole. — 20 miles.
The 6th. — The same inclosed country to Brooms; but near
that town, improves to the eye, from being more hilly. At the
little town of Lamballe, there are above fifty families of noblesse
that live in winter, who reside on their estates in the summer.
There is probably as much foppery and nonsense in their circles,


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16272
ARTHUR YOUNG
and for what I know as much happiness, as in those of Paris.
Both would be better employed in cultivating their lands, and
rendering the poor industrious. - 30 miles.
The 12th. - Walking up a long hill, to ease my mare, I was
joined by a poor woman, who complained of the times, and that
it was a sad country: demanding her reasons, she said her hus-
band had but a morsel of land, one cow, and a poor little horse;
yet they had a franchar (42 lb. ) of wheat, and three chickens, to
pay as a quit-rent to one Seigneur; and four franchar of oats,
one chicken and i f. to pay to another, besides very heavy tailles
and other taxes. She had seven children, and the cow's milk
helped to make the soup. But why, instead of a horse, do not
you keep another cow ? Oh, her husband could not carry his
produce so well without a horse; and asses are little used in the
country. It was said, at present, that something was to be done
by some great folks for such poor ones, but she did not know who
nor how, but God send us better, car les tailles & les droits nous
écrasent. - This woman, at no great distance, might have been
taken for sixty or seventy, her figure was so bent, and her face
so furrowed and hardened by labor,— but she said she was
only twenty-eight. An Englishman who has not traveled, can-
not imagine the figure made by infinitely the greater part of the
countrywomen in France: it speaks, at the first sight, hard and
severe labor; I am inclined to think that they work harder than
the men, and this, united with the more miserable labor of bring-
ing a new race of slaves into the world, destroys absolutely all
symmetry of person and every feminine appearance. To what
we to attribute this difference in the manners of the lower
people in the two kingdoms ? To GOVERNMENT.
The 26th. — For twenty miles to Lisle sur Daube, the country
nearly as before; but after that, to Baume les Dames, it is all
mountainous and rock, much wood, and many pleasing scenes of
the river flowing beneath. The whole country is in the greatest
agitation; at one of the little towns I passed, I was questioned
for not having a cockade of the tiers état. They said it was
ordained by the ticrs; and if I was not a seigneur, I ought to
obey. But suppose I am a seigneur, what then, my friends?
What then ? they replied sternly: why, be hanged; for that most
likely is what you deserve. It was plain this was no moment
for joking; the boys and girls began to gather, whose assembling
are


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ARTHUR YOUNG
16273
has everywhere been the preliminaries of mischief; and if I had
not declared myself an Englishman, and ignorant of the ordi-
nance, I had not escaped very well. I immediately bought a
cockade; but the hussy pinned it into my hat so loosely that
before I got to Lisle it blew into the river, and I was again in
the same danger. My assertion of being English would not do.
I was a seigneur, perhaps in disguise, and without doubt a great
rogue. At this moment a priest came into the street with a let-
ter in his hand: the people immediately collected around him,
and he then read aloud a detail from Befort, giving an account
of M. Necker's passing, with some general features of news from
Paris, and assurances that the condition of the people would be
improved. When he had finished, he exhorted them to abstain
from all violence: and assured them they must not indulge them-
selves with any ideas of impositions being abolished; which he
touched on as if he knew that they had got such notions. When
he retired, they again surrounded me, who had attended to the
letter like others; were very menacing in their manner; and
expressed many suspicions: I did not like my situation at all,
especially on hearing one of them say that I ought to be secured
till somebody would give an account of me. I was on the steps
of the inn, and begged they would permit me a few words; I
assured them that I was an English traveler, and to prove it,
I desired to explain to them a circumstance in English taxation,
which would be a satisfactory comment on what M. l'Abbé had
told them, to the purport of which I could not agree. He had
asserted that the impositions must be paid as heretofore: that
the impositions must be paid was certain, but not as heretofore,
as they might be paid as they were in England. Gentlemen, we
have a great number of taxes in England, which you know noth-
ing of in France; but the tiers état, the poor, do not pay them,
they are laid on the rich: every window in a man's house pays,
but if he has no more than six windows he pays nothing; a
seigneur with a great estate pays the vingtièmes and tailles, but
the little proprietor of a garden pays nothing; the rich for their
horses, their voitures, and their servants, and even for the lib.
erty to kill their own partridges, but the poor farmer nothing
of all this; and what is more, we have in England a tax paid
by the rich for the relief of the poor: hence the assertion of M.
l'Abbé, that because taxes existed before, they must exist again,
XXVII-1018


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16274
ARTHUR YOUNG
did not at all prove that they must be levied in the same man-
ner; our English method seemed much better. There was not
a word of this discourse they did not approve of; they seemed
to think that I might be an honest fellow, which I confirmed by
crying, vive le tiers, sans impositions, when they gave me a bit
of a huzza, and I had no more interruption from them. My mis-
erable French was pretty much on a par with their own patois.
I got however another cockade, which I took care to have so
fastened as to lose it no more. I did not half like traveling in
such an unquiet and fermenting moment: one is not secure for
an hour beforehand. — 35 miles.
The 27th. – To Besançon: the country, mountain, rock, and
wood, above the river; some scenes are fine. I had not arrived
an hour before I saw a peasant pass the inn on horseback, fol.
lowed by an officer of the guard bourgeois, of which there are
1,200 here and 200 under arms, and his party-colored attachment,
and these by some infantry and cavalry. I asked why the militia.
took the pas of the King's troops ? For a very good reason, they
replied: the troops would be attacked and knocked on the head, but
the populace will not resist the milice. This peasant, who is a
rich proprietor, applied for a guard to protect his house, in a vil.
lage where there is much plundering and burning. The mischiefs
which have been perpetrated in the country, towards the mount-
ains and Vesoul, are numerous and shocking. Many châteaus
have been burnt, others plundered, the seigneurs hunted down
like wild beasts, their wives and daughters ravished, their papers
and titles burnt, and all their property destroyed: and these
abominations not inflicted on marked persons, who were odious
for their former conduct or principles, but an indiscriminating
blind rage for the love of plunder. Robbers, galley-slaves, and
villains of all denominations, have collected and instigated the
peasants to commit all sorts of outrages. Some gentlemen at
the table d'hôte informed me that letters were received from the
Maconois, the Lyonois, Auvergne, Dauphiné, etc. , and that simi-
lar commotions and mischiefs were perpetrating everywhere; and
that it was expected they would pervade the whole kingdom.
The backwardness of France is beyond credibility in everything
that pertains to intelligence. From Strasbourg hither, I have not
been able to see a newspaper.
Here I asked for the Cabinet Lit-
téraire ? None. The gazettes ? At the coffee-house. Very easily


## p. 16275 (#625) ##########################################

ARTHUR YOUNG
16275
replied; but not so easily found. Nothing but the Gazette de
France; for which, at this period, a man of common-sense would
not give one sol. To four other coffee-houses: at some no paper
at all, not even the Mercure; at the Caffé Militaire, the Courier
de l'Europe a fortnight old; and well-dressed people are now
talking of the news of two or three weeks past, and plainly by
their discourse know nothing of what is passing. The whole
town of Besançon has not been able to afford me a sight of the
Journal de Paris, nor of any paper that gives a detail of the trans-
actions of the States; yet it is the capital of a province large as
half a dozen English counties, and containing * 25,000 souls, - with,
,
strange to say! the post coming in but three times a week. At
this eventful moment, with no license, nor even the least restraint
on the press, not one paper established at Paris for circulation in
the provinces, with the necessary steps taken by affiche, or pla-
card, to inform the people in all the towns of its establishment.
For what the country knows to the contrary, their deputies are
in the Bastile, instead of the Bastile being razed; so the mob
plunder, burn, and destroy, in complete ignorance: and yet with
all these shades of darkness, these clouds of tenebrity, this uni-
versal mass of ignorance, there are men every day in the States
who are puffing themselves off for the FIRST NATION IN EUROPE!
the GREATEST PEOPLE IN THE UNIVERSE!