[2105] In the vicinity of Temesa is the Heroum of
Polites, one of the companions of Ulysses.
Polites, one of the companions of Ulysses.
Strabo
”[1979]
At last, however, these men were exterminated by one of the kings, the
oracle having deceived him; but [adds Ephorus] the oracle is still in
existence, though removed to another [CAS. 245] place. Such were the
myths related by our ancestors. But now that the wood surrounding the
Avernus has been cut down by Agrippa, the lands built upon, and a
subterranean passage cut from Avernus to Cumæ, all these appear fables.
Perhaps[1980] Cocceius, who made this subterranean passage,[1981] wished
to follow the practice of the Kimmerians we have already described, or
fancied that it was natural to this place that its roads should be made
under-ground.
6. The Lucrine gulf extends in breadth as far as Baïæ; it is separated
from the sea by a bank eight stadia in length, and the breadth of a
carriage-way; this they say was constructed by Hercules when he drove
away the oxen of Geryon. But as the wave covered its surface in stormy
weather, rendering it difficult to pass on foot, Agrippa has repaired
it. Small vessels can put into it, but it is useless as a harbour. [1982]
It contains abundant oyster-beds. Some take this to be the Acherusian
Lake, while Artemidorus confounds it with Avernus. They say that Baïæ
took its name from Baïus one of the companions of Ulysses, and Misenum
from Misenus. Beyond is the strand and city of Dicæarchia. Formerly it
was nothing but a naval station of the Cumæi. It was built on an
eminence. But at the time of the war with Hannibal, the Romans
established a colony there, and changed its name into Puteoli,[1983] [an
appellation derived] from its wells; or, according to others, from the
stench of its waters, the whole district from hence to Baïæ and Cumæ
being full of sulphur, fire, and hot-springs. Some too are of opinion
that it was on this account [that the country about] Cumæ was named
Phlegra, and that the fables of the giants struck down by thunderbolts
owe their origin to these eruptions of fire and water. This city has
become a place of extensive commerce, having artificially constructed
harbours, which were much facilitated by the facile nature of the sand,
which contains much gypsum, and will cement and consolidate thoroughly.
For mixing this sand with chalk-stones they construct moles in the sea,
thus forming bays along the open coast, in which the largest transport
ships may safely ride. Immediately above the city lies the
Forum-Vulcani,[1984] a plain surrounded with hills which seem to be on
fire, having in many parts mouths emitting smoke, frequently accompanied
by a terrible rumbling noise; the plain itself is full of drifted
sulphur.
7. After Dicæarchia is Neapolis,[1985] [founded[1986] originally] by the
Cumæi, but afterwards being peopled by Chalcidians, and certain
Pithecussæans and Athenians,[1987] it was on this account denominated
Naples. [1988] Here is pointed out the tomb of [CAS. 246] Parthenope, one
of the sirens, and a gymnastic sport is celebrated by command of an
oracle. In course of time the inhabitants, having disagreed amongst
themselves, admitted certain Campanians; thus being forced to regard in
the light of friends those most inimical to them, since their friends
were hostile. This is proved by the names of their demarchi, the earlier
of which are Grecian, but the latter a mixture of Campanian with the
Grecian names. Many traces of Grecian institution are still preserved,
the gymnasia, the ephebeia,[1989] the fratriæ,[1990] and the Grecian
names of people who are Roman citizens. At the present time they
celebrate, every fifth year, public games for music and gymnastic
exercises during many days, which rival the most famous games of Greece.
There is here a subterranean passage, similar to that at Cumæ,[1991]
extending for many stadia along the mountain,[1992] between
Dicæarchia[1993] and Neapolis: it is sufficiently broad to let carriages
pass each other, and light is admitted from the surface of the mountain,
by means of numerous apertures cut through a great depth. [1994] Naples
also has hot springs and baths not at all inferior in quality to those
at Baïæ, but much less frequented, for another city has arisen there,
not less than Dicæarchia, one palace after another having been built.
Naples still preserves the Grecian mode of life, owing to those who
retire hither from Rome for the sake of repose, after a life of labour
from childhood, and to those whose age or weakness demands relaxation.
Besides these, Romans who find attractions in this style of life, and
observe the numbers of persons dwelling there, are attracted by the
place, and make it their abode.
8. Following this is the fortress of Heraclæum,[1995] built upon a
promontory which projects out into the sea, and which, on account of the
prevalence of the south-west wind, is a very healthy spot. The
Osci[1996] originally possessed both this and Pompeia,[1997] which is
next to it, by which the river Sarno[1998] flows; afterwards the
Tyrrheni and Pelasgi,[1999] and then the Samnites[2000] obtained
possession of them, and the last[2001] in their turn were driven from
these regions. Pompeia is the port for Nola,[2002] Nuceria,[2003] and
Acerræ, which bears the same name as the city near to Cremona. It is
built on the river Sarno, by which merchandise is received and exported.
Above these places is Mount Vesuvius, which is covered with very
beautiful fields, excepting its summit, a great part of which is level,
but wholly sterile. It appears ash-coloured to the eye, cavernous
hollows appear formed of blackened stones, looking as if they had been
subjected to the action of fire. From this we may infer that the place
was formerly in a burning state with live craters, which however became
extinguished on the failing of the fuel. Perhaps this [volcano] may have
been the cause of the fertility of the surrounding country, the same as
occurs in Catana, where they say that that portion which has been
covered with ashes thrown up by the fires of Ætna is most excellent for
the vine. The land about Vesuvius contains fat, and a soil which has
been subjected to fire, and is very strong and productive of fruit: when
this fat superabounds, it is apt, like all sulphurous substances, to
take fire, but being dried up by evaporation, extinguished, and
pulverized, it becomes a productive earth. Adjoining [CAS. 247] Pompeia
is Surrentum,[2004] [a city] of the Campanians, from whence the
Athenæum,[2005] called by some the promontory of the Sirenusæ, projects
[into the sea]; upon its summit is the temple of Minerva, founded by
Ulysses. From hence to the island of Capreas the passage is short; after
doubling the promontory you encounter various desert and rocky little
islands, which are called the Sirenusæ. [2006] On the side towards
Surrentum there is shown a temple with the ancient offerings of those
who held this place in veneration. Here is the end of the bay named
Crater,[2007] which is bounded by the two promontories of Misenum[2008]
and the Athenæum, both looking towards the south. The whole is adorned
by the cities we have described, by villas, and plantations, so close
together that to the eye they appear but one city.
9. In front of Misenum lies the island of Prochyta,[2009] which has been
rent from the Pithecussæ. [2010] Pithecussæ was peopled by a colony of
Eretrians and Chalcidians, which was very prosperous on account of the
fertility of the soil and the productive gold-mines; however, they
abandoned the island on account of civil dissensions, and were
ultimately driven out by earthquakes, and eruptions of fire, sea, and
hot waters. It was on account of these eruptions, to which the island is
subject, that the colonists sent by Hiero,[2011] the king of Syracuse,
abandoned the island, together with the town which they had built, when
it was taken possession of by the Neapolitans. This explains the myth
concerning Typhon, who, they say, lies beneath the island, and when he
turns himself, causes flames and water to rush forth, and sometimes even
small islands to rise in the sea, containing springs of hot water.
Pindar throws more credibility into the myth, by making it comformable
to the actual phenomena, for the whole strait from Cumæa to Sicily is
subigneous, and below the sea has certain galleries which form a
communication between [the volcanos[2012] of the islands[2013]] and
those of the mainland. He shows that Ætna is on this account of the
nature described by all, and also the Lipari Islands, with the regions
around Dicæarchia, Neapolis, Baïæ, and the Pithecussæ. And mindful
hereof, [Pindar] says that Typhon lies under the whole of this space.
“Now indeed the sea-girt shores beyond Cumæ, and Sicily,
press on his shaggy breast. ”[2014]
Timæus,[2015] who remarks that many paradoxical accounts were related by
the ancients concerning the Pithecussæ, states, nevertheless, that a
little before his time, Mount Epomeus,[2016] in the middle of the
island, being shaken by an earthquake, vomited forth fire; and that the
land between it and the coast was driven out into the sea. That the
powdered soil, after being whirled on high, was poured down again upon
the island in a whirlwind. That the sea retired from it to a distance of
three stadia, but after remaining so for a short time it returned, and
inundated the island, thus extinguishing the fire. And that the
inhabitants of the continent fled at the noise, from the sea-coast, into
the interior of Campania. It seems that the hot-springs[2017] here are a
remedy for those afflicted with gravel. Capreæ[2018] anciently possessed
two small cities, afterwards but one. The Neapolitans possessed this
island, but having lost Pithecussæ in war, they received it again from
Cæsar Augustus, giving him in exchange Capreæ. This [island] having thus
become the property of that prince, he [CAS. 248] has ornamented it with
numerous edifices. Such then are the maritime cities of Campania, and
the islands lying opposite to it.
10. In the interior is the metropolis, Capua, being, as the etymon of
the name signifies, the head; for in regard to it all the other cities
appear small, excepting Teanum-Sidicinum,[2019] which is a very
considerable place. This city lies on the Via Appia, as also the others
which lead from hence to Brundusium, [viz. ] Callateria,[2020]
Caudium,[2021] and Beneventum. [2022] On the side of Rome is
Casilinum,[2023] situated on the river Vulturnus. [2024] Here 540 men of
Præneste sustained against Hannibal in the height of his power so
desperate a siege, that by reason of the famine, a rat[2025] was sold
for two hundred drachmæ, the seller dying [of hunger], but the purchaser
being saved. Hannibal observing some of them sowing turnip-seed near to
the wall, admired, as well he might, the patient courage of these men,
who hoped to hold out in the mean while, until these turnips should be
ready for food. However, we are assured that they all survived, with the
exception of a few who perished either by famine or in war.
11. In addition to those just spoken of, there are these Campanian
cities which we have already mentioned, viz. Cales,[2026] and
Teanum-Sidicinum, the limits of which are respectively marked out by the
two temples of Fortune situated on either side of the Via Latina.
Besides these are Suessula,[2027] Atella,[2028] Nola,[2029]
Nuceria,[2030] Acerræ,[2031] Abella,[2032] with other smaller
settlements, some of which are said to be Samnite. [2033] The Samnites,
by making incursions into Latium as far as Ardea, and afterwards
devastating Campania itself, greatly extended their power. The
Campanians, being otherwise accustomed to a despotic government, yielded
ready obedience to their commands. At the present day they have been
almost entirely exterminated by the various Roman generals, and last of
all by Sulla, who was absolute master of the republic. He, after having
by numerous battles extinguished the Italian revolt, observing that the
Samnites, almost without exception, remained in one body, and with one
sole intention, so that they had even marched upon Rome itself, gave
them battle under the walls, and as he had issued orders to make no
prisoners, many of them were cut to pieces on the field, while the
remainder, said to be about three or four thousand men, who threw down
their arms, were led off to the _Villa Publica_ in the Campus Martius,
and there shut in; three days after soldiers were sent in who massacred
the whole; and when [Sulla] drew up his conscription list, he did not
rest satisfied until he had destroyed, or driven from Italy, every one
who bore a Samnite name. To those who reproached him for this animosity,
he replied that he had learned by experience that not a single Roman
could rest in peace so long as any of the Samnites survived. Thus their
cities have now dwindled into villages, some indeed being entirely
deserted, as Boianum,[2034] Æsernia,[2035] Panna, Telesia[2036]
adjoining Venafrum, and others similar, none of which can be looked upon
as cities; but in a country so renowned and powerful as Italy, we
thought proper to mention places even of second-rate importance. [We
should add that] Beneventum[2037] and Venusia[2038] are still
prosperous.
12. The following is the tradition concerning the [origin of the]
Samnites. The Sabines having been engaged for [CAS. 250] a long period
in war with the Ombrici, made a vow, common with some of the Grecian
nations, that they would consecrate to the gods the productions of the
year. [2039] They were victorious, and accordingly of the
productions,[2040] the one kind were sacrificed, the other consecrated.
However, in a time of scarcity, some one remarked, that they ought
likewise to have consecrated the children. This then they did, and the
children born at that period were called the sons of Mars. [2041] When
these had grown up to manhood, they were sent forth, a bull leading the
way, to found a colony. The bull lay down to rest in a place belonging
to the Opici; a people dwelling in villages. These they drove out, and
established themselves in the place. The bull, according to the
direction of the diviners, they sacrificed to Mars, who had given him to
them as a leader. It seems to have been in allusion to this that their
parents called them by the diminutive form of Sabelli. [2042] The name of
Samnites, or, as the Greeks call them, Saunites, originated in another
cause. It is also said that certain Lacedæmonians came to dwell amongst
them, and that this is the reason of their affection for the Greeks, and
that certain of them are called Pitanatæ. [2043] The whole of this,
however, appears to be a mere fabrication of the Tarentini, interested
in flattering and conciliating to themselves a neighbouring people, so
powerful as to be able, on a time, to bring into the field a force of
eighty thousand foot-soldiers, and eight thousand cavalry. There is said
to be a law amongst the Samnites, excellent in itself, and calculated to
excite to virtue. It is not lawful for fathers to give away their
daughters to whomsoever they may please; but every year ten of the most
virtuous young women, and ten of the most virtuous young men, are
selected; of these the most excellent young man is married to the most
excellent young woman, the second to the second, and so on in order.
Should he who receives this reward, afterwards change and become wicked,
he is dishonoured, and the wife who had been given is taken away from
him. Beyond are the Hirpini, who are also Samnites: their name they take
from the wolf, which conducted their colony; a wolf being called by the
Samnites _hirpos_: these people border on the Leucani in the interior.
So much for the Samnites.
13. The fertility of their country has been productive to the Campanians
of as much evil as good. Their luxury ran to such a height, that they
would invite to supper, in order to exhibit pairs of fighting
gladiators, the exact number of pairs being regulated according to the
distinction of the guests. When, on their voluntary submission to
Hannibal, they received his soldiers into winter quarters,[2044] the
pleasures [of the place] rendered the men so effeminate, that Hannibal
said, although conqueror, that he was in danger of the enemy, since his
soldiers were returned to him women, and no longer men. When the Romans
obtained the mastery,[2045] they inflicted on them numerous ills, and
ended by distributing their land by lot. [2046] At the present day they
are living in prosperity, and on friendly terms with the [Roman]
colonists, and preserve their ancient reputation, both in respect to the
size of their city and the numbers of their population. Beyond Campania
and the Samnites,[2047] and upon the Tyrrhenian Sea, dwells the nation
of the Picentini. This is a small off-shoot from the Picentini who dwell
near the Adriatic, and was transplanted by the Romans to the Posidoniate
Gulf,[2048] now called the Gulf of Pæstum. The city of Posidonia, which
is built about the middle of the gulf, is called Pæstum. [2049] The
Sybarites [when they founded the city[2050]] built the fortifications
close upon the sea, but the inhabitants removed higher up. In after
time[2051] the Leucani seized upon the city, but in their turn were
deprived of it by the Romans. [2052] It is rendered unhealthy by a
river[2053] [CAS. 251] which overflows the marshy districts in the
neighbourhood. Between the Sirenussæ and Posidonia[2054] is
Marcina,[2055] a city founded by the Tyrrheni, but inhabited by the
Samnites. [To go] from thence into Pompæa,[2056] through Nuceria,[2057]
[you cross] an isthmus of not more than 120 stadia. The Picentes extend
as far as the river Silaro,[2058] which separates their country on this
side from ancient Leucania. [2059] The water of this river is reported to
possess the singular property of petrifying any plant thrown into it,
preserving at the same time both the colour and form. [2060] Picentia was
formerly the capital of the Picentes; but they now dwell in villages,
having been ejected by the Romans[2061] for taking part with Hannibal.
Also, instead of doing military service, it has been decreed that they
shall be the public daily couriers and letter-carriers; [a penalty]
which for the same cause has been likewise inflicted on the Leucani and
Bruttii. To keep them in check, the Romans fortified Salernum, which is
a little above the sea. The distance from the Sirenussæ to the Silaro is
260 stadia.
BOOK VI.
ITALY.
SUMMARY.
The Sixth Book contains the remainder of Italy, and the regions
within the Adriatic, as far as Macedonia; likewise a description
of Apulia, Calabria, the country by the Ionian Gulf, together
with the adjacent islands, from Sicily to the Ceraunian
mountains, and on the other side as far as Carthage, and the
small islands lying near to it.
CHAPTER I.
1. After the mouth of the Silaro,[2062] is Leucania, and the temple of
Argive Juno, founded by Jason. Near to this, within 50 stadia, is
Posidonia. [2063] Sailing thence, towards the high sea, is the island of
Leucosia,[2064] at a little distance from the mainland. It bears the
name of one of the Sirens, who according to the mythology was cast up
here, after having been precipitated with her companions into the deep.
The promontory[2065] of the island projects opposite the
Sirenussæ,[2066] forming the bay of Posidonium. [2067] After having made
this cape there is another contiguous bay, on which is built the city
which the Phocæans called Hyela when they founded it, but others Ela
from a certain fountain. People in the present day call it Elea. It is
here that Parmenides and Zeno, the Pythagorean philosophers, were born.
And it is my opinion that through the instrumentality of those men, as
well as by previous good management, the government of that place was
well arranged, so that they successfully resisted the Leucani and the
Posidoniatæ, notwithstanding the smallness of their district and the
inferiority of their numbers. They are [CAS. 252] compelled, therefore,
on account of the barrenness of the soil, to apply to maritime trade
chiefly, to employ themselves in the salting of fish, and in such other
occupations. Antiochus[2068] says that when Phocea was taken by
Harpagus, the general of Cyrus, those who had the means embarked with
their families, and sailed under the conduct of Creontiades, first to
Cyrnos and Marseilles, but having been driven thence, they founded
Elea;[2069] the name of which some say is derived from the river
Elees. [2070] The city is distant about two hundred stadia from
Posidonia. After this city is the promontory of Palinurus. But in front
of the Eleatis are the Œnotrides, two islands[2071] having good
anchorage. [2072] And beyond Palinurus are the promontory, harbour, and
river of Pyxus;[2073] the three having the same name. This colony was
founded[2074] by Micythus, then governor of Messina in Sicily; but those
who were located here, except a few, abandoned the place. After Pyxus
are the gulf,[2075] the river,[2076] and the city[2077] of Laüs. This,
the last[2078] city of the Leucani, situate a little above the sea, is a
colony[2079] of the Sybarites, and is distant from Elea 400 stadia. The
whole circuit of Leucania, by sea is 650 stadia. Near to Laüs is seen
the tomb of Draco, one of the companions of Ulysses, and the oracular
response, given to the Italian Greeks, alludes to him:
“Some day, around the Dragon’s stony tomb,
A mighty multitude shall meet their doom. ”
For the Greeks of Italy, enticed by this prophecy, marched against Laüs
and were defeated by the Leucani. [2080]
2. Such, along the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, are the possessions of
the Leucani, which at first did not reach to the other sea;[2081] the
Greeks who dwelt on the Gulf of Tarentum possessed it. But before the
coming of the Greeks there were no Leucani, the Chones[2082] and Œnotri
possessed these territories. But when the Samnites had greatly
increased, and expelled the Chones and Œnotri, and driven the Leucani
into this region, while the Greeks possessed the sea-coast on both
sides as far as the straits, the Greeks and the Barbarians maintained a
lengthened contest. The tyrants of Sicily, and afterwards the
Carthaginians, at one time making war against the Romans, for the
acquisition of Sicily, and at another, for Italy itself, utterly wasted
all these regions. The Greeks, however, succeeded in depriving the
ancient inhabitants of a great portion of the midland country, beginning
even as early as the Trojan war; they increased in power, and extent of
territory, to such a degree, that they called this region and Sicily,
the _Magna Græcia_. But now the whole region, except Tarentum, Rhegium,
and Neapolis, has become barbarian,[2083] and belongs partly to the
Leucani and Bruttii, partly to the Campani; to these, however, only in
name, but truly to the Romans; for these people have become Roman.
However, it is incumbent on one who is treating of [CAS. 253] universal
geography, to speak both of things as they now are, and of some of those
that have been, and especially when they are important. Of the Leucani,
who border upon the Tuscan Sea, mention has already been made; those who
possess the midland regions dwell above the Gulf of Tarentum, but these,
as well as the Bruttii, and the Samnites themselves, the progenitors of
both, have been so maltreated [by the Romans], that it is difficult to
determine the boundaries of each people. The reason of this is, that
there no longer remains separately any of the institutions common to
these nations; and their peculiarities of language, of military and
civil costume, and such particulars, have passed away; besides, even
their places of abode, considered separately and apart, possess nothing
worthy of observation.
3. We will narrate in a general manner what we have gathered concerning
the Leucani, who dwell in the interior, without too much care in
distinguishing them from their neighbours, the Samnites. Petilia[2084]
is considered as the metropolis of the Leucani, and is still well
peopled. It owes its foundation to Philoctetes, who was compelled to
quit Melibœa on account of civil dissensions. Its position is so strong,
that the Samnites were formerly obliged to construct forts around it for
the defence of their territory. The ancient Crimissa, situated near
these places, was also founded by Philoctetes. Apollodorus, in his
description of the ships [of the Greeks], narrates concerning
Philoctetes, that, according to certain writers, this prince having
disembarked in the district of Crotona, settled on the promontory of
Crimissa, and built the city of Chone[2085] above it, from which the
inhabitants were called Chones; and that certain colonists being sent by
him into Sicily, to the neighbourhood of Eryx,[2086] with Ægestus the
Trojan, founded Ægesta. [2087] In the inland districts are also
Grumentum,[2088] Vertinæ,[2089] Calasarna,[2090] and other small
villages, reaching as far as Venusia,[2091] a city of some importance.
This, however, I consider to be a Samnite city, as are also those which
are next met with on going into Campania. Above the Thurii lies the
district called Tauriana. [2092] The Leucani are of Samnite origin.
Having vanquished the Posidoniates and their allies, they took
possession of their cities. At one time the institutions of the Leucani
were democratic, but during the wars a king was elected by those who
were possessed of chief authority: at the present time they are Roman.
4. The Bruttii occupy the remainder of the coast as far as the Strait of
Sicily, extending about 1350 stadia. Antiochus, in his treatise on
Italy, says that this district, which he intended to describe, was
called Italy, but that previously it had been called Œnotria. The
boundary which he assigns to it on the Tyrrhenian Sea, is the river
Lao,[2093] and on the Sea of Sicily Metapontium, the former of which we
have given as the boundary of the Bruttii. He describes Tarentum, which
is next to Metapontium,[2094] as beyond Italy, calling it Iapygian. He
also relates that, at a more ancient period, those who dwelt on this
side the isthmus, which lies next the Strait of Sicily, were the only
people who were called Œnotrians and Italians. The isthmus is 160 stadia
across between the two gulfs, namely, that of Hipponium,[2095] which
Antiochus called Napitinus, and [CAS. 255] that of Scylletium. [2096] The
circumnavigation of the peninsula, which is comprised between this
isthmus and the strait, is 2000 stadia. He says that afterwards the
names of Italy and of the Œnotrians were extended as far as Metapontium
and the Siritis; the Chones, a people of Œnotrian descent, and highly
civilized, inhabited these districts, and called their country Chone.
However, this author has written in a very loose and old-fashioned
manner, without giving any definite boundaries to the Leucani and
Bruttii. Now Leucania is situated on the Tyrrhenian and Sicilian Seas,
extending on one coast from the Silaro[2097] to the river Lao, and on
the other from Metapontium[2098] to Thurii. Along the continent it
stretches from the country of the Samnites, as far as the isthmus
between Thurii and Cerilli,[2099] near the Lao. This isthmus is 300
stadia[2100] across. Beyond are the Bruttii, who dwell on the peninsula;
in this is included another peninsula, which is bounded by the isthmus
between Scylletium[2101] and the Hipponiate gulf. [2102] The nation
received its appellation from the Leucani, for they call runaways
Bruttii, and they say that formerly they ran away from them when
employed as shepherds, and that afterwards their independence was
established through the weakness [of the Leucani], when Dion [of
Syracuse] was prosecuting a war against [the younger] Dionysius, and
fomented hostilities amongst all. [2103] This is all we shall remark as
to the Leucani and Bruttii.
5. From the Lao the first city is the Temesa[2104] of the Bruttii,
which at present is called Tempsa. It was founded by the Ausonians;
afterwards the Ætolians, under the command of Thoas, gained possession
of it. These were expelled by the Bruttii; Hannibal and the Romans have
overthrown the Bruttii.
[2105] In the vicinity of Temesa is the Heroum of
Polites, one of the companions of Ulysses. It is surrounded by a thick
grove of wild olives. He was treacherously slain by the barbarians, and
became in consequence very wrathful, and his shade so tormented the
inhabitants that they submitted to pay him a tribute, according to the
direction of a certain oracle. Thus it became a proverb amongst them,
“Let no one offend the hero of Temesa,” for they said that [for a long
time he[2106]] had tormented them. But when the Epizephyrian Locrians
took the city, they feign that Euthymus the pugilist went out against
him, and having overcome him in fight, constrained him to free the
inhabitants from tribute. [2107] They say that the poet intended this
Temesa, and not the Tamassus[2108] in Cyprus, (for it is said that the
words are suitable to either,[2109]) when he sings,
“in quest of brass
To Temesa. ”[2110]
[CAS. 256] and certain copper-mines are pointed out near to the place,
which are now exhausted. Contiguous to it is Terina,[2111] which
Hannibal destroyed, when he found he could no longer retain it; at the
time when he took refuge in the country of the Bruttii. [2112] Next in
order comes Cosentia,[2113] the metropolis of the Bruttii. A little
above it is Pandosia, which is strongly fortified, before which
Alexander the Molossian king was overthrown. This prince was led astray
by the oracle of Dodona, which commanded him to avoid Acheron and
Pandosia;[2114] for places with names like these being pointed out in
Thesprotia, caused him to lose his life[2115] here. The position has
three summits, and the river Acheron flows by it. He was also mistaken
in another oracle,
“O Pandosia, thou three-topp’d hill,
Hereafter many people thou shalt kill;”
for he thought that it foreshowed the destruction of his enemies, and
not of his own people. They say that Pandosia[2116] was formerly the
residence of the Œnotrian kings. After Cosentia is Hipponium,[2117]
founded by the Locrians. [2118] The Romans took it from the Bruttii, who
were in possession of it at a subsequent period, and changed the name
into Vibo-Valentia. [2119] And because the meadows in its vicinity are
luxuriant and full of flowers, it is supposed that Proserpine came over
from Sicily to gather them, and from thence the custom among women of
this city, to gather flowers and plait garlands, prevailed to such an
extent, that they now think it shameful to wear purchased garlands at
the festivals. [2120] It also possesses a harbour[2121] made by
Agathocles,[2122] the tyrant of Sicily, when he was in possession of the
town. On sailing hence to the Portus Herculis,[2123] we come to the
point where the headlands of Italy, as they stretch towards the Strait
[of Sicily], begin to turn westward. In this voyage we pass Medma,[2124]
a city of the same Locrians,[2125] which bears the name of a copious
fountain, and possessing at a short distance a naval station, called
Emporium. [2126] Very nigh is the river Metauro,[2127] as also a naval
station bearing the same name. [2128] The Lipari Isles lie off this
coast; they are distant 200 stadia from the strait. They say that they
are the islands of Æolus, of whom the poet makes [CAS. 257] mention in
the Odyssey. [2129] They are seven in number, and are all easily
distinguished both from Sicily and the coast of the continent about
Medma. We will speak of them in particular when we describe Sicily.
After the river Metaurus, there is another Metaurus. [2130] Next in order
is Scyllæum, an elevated cliff nearly surrounded by the sea. But
connected with the mainland by a low isthmus easily accessible on either
side, which Anaxilaus, the tyrant of Rhegium, fortified against the
Tyrrheni, and formed a commodious haven, and thus prevented the pirates
from passing through the strait. Next to the Scyllæan promontory was
that of Cænys, distant from Medma 250 stadia. It is the last headland,
and forms the narrowest part of the Strait [of Sicily], being opposite
to Cape Pelorus on the Sicilian side, which is one of the three points
which give to that island the form of a triangle. Its aspect is towards
the rising of the sun in summer, whilst that of Cænys looks towards the
west. Indeed they both seem to have diverged from the general line of
coast in order to stand out opposite each other. [2131] From Cænys to the
Posidonium[2132] [and] the Columna Rheginorum,[2133] the narrow part of
the strait stretches as much as 6 stadia, the shortest passage across
the strait is a little more. From the Columna [Rheginorum] to Rhegium,
where the strait begins to widen, is a hundred [stadia] as you advance
in a direction towards the exterior and eastern sea, which is called the
sea of Sicily.
6. Rhegium[2134] was founded by certain Chalcidenses, who, as they say,
were decimated as an offering to Apollo in a time of scarcity, by order
of an oracle, and afterwards removed hither from Delphi, taking with
them certain others from home. As Antiochus says, the Zanclæans sent for
the Chalcidenses, and appointed Antimnestus chief over them. Certain
fugitives of the Messenians of Peloponnesus accompanied this colony, who
had been compelled to fly by those who refused to give satisfaction to
the Lacedæmonians for the violation[2135] of the virgins at Limnæ, whom
they had abused when attending the religious festival, and had slain
those who assisted them. However when the fugitives had removed to
Macistus, they sent to the oracle complaining against Apollo and Diana
for suffering these things to happen notwithstanding they so greatly
honoured them, and inquiring how the devoted might be saved. Apollo
commanded to send them with the Chalcidenses to Rhegium, and to be
grateful, therefore, to his sister Diana for that they were not lost but
saved, as they should not be destroyed with their country, which would
be annihilated shortly after by the Spartans. [2136] They acted in
accordance with the oracle, and thus it was that the rulers of the
Rhegini were all of Messenian race until the time of Anaxilaus.
Antiochus asserts that anciently the whole of this district was
inhabited by Sicilians and Morgetes; and that they [CAS. 258] afterwards
passed into Sicily when they were expelled by the Œnotri. Some say that
Morgantium[2137] thus received its name from the Morgetes. But the city
of the Rhegini became very powerful, and possessed many dependent
settlements. It has always been a bulwark for us against the island [of
Sicily], and, indeed, has recently served to that purpose when Sextus
Pompeius alienated Sicily. [2138] It was called Rhegium either, as
Æschylus says, because of the convulsion which had taken place in this
region; for Sicily was broken from the continent by earthquakes,
“Whence it is called Rhegium. ”[2139]
Others,[2140] as well as he, have affirmed the same thing, and adduce as
an evidence that which is observed about Ætna, and the appearances seen
in other parts of Sicily, the Lipari and neighbouring islands, and even
in the Pithecussæ, with the whole coast beyond them, which prove that it
was not unlikely that this convulsion had taken place. But now these
mouths being opened, through which the fire is drawn up, and the ardent
masses and water poured out, they say that the land in the neighbourhood
of the Strait of Sicily rarely suffers from the effects of earthquakes;
but formerly all the passages to the surface being blocked up, the fire
which was smouldering beneath the earth, together with the vapour,
occasioned terrible earthquakes, and the regions, being disturbed by the
force of the pent-up winds, sometimes gave way, and being rent received
the sea, which flowed in from either side; and thus were formed both
this strait and the sea which surrounds the other islands in the
neighbourhood. For Prochyta[2141] and the Pithecussæ, as well as
Capreæ, Leucosia, the Sirenes, and the Œnotrides, are but so many
detached fragments from the continent, but other islands have risen from
the bottom of the sea, a circumstance which frequently occurs in many
places; for it is more reasonable to think that the islands in the midst
of the sea have been raised up from the bottom, and that those which lie
off headlands and are separated merely by a strait were broken off from
them. Still it is beside our purpose to investigate thoroughly whether
the name were given to the city for these causes, or whether it were
named by the Samnites from the Latin word regium, which signifies royal,
on account of its importance,[2142] for their chieftains participated in
the privileges of citizenship with the Romans, and generally used the
Latin language. But Dionysius (the elder), having been treated with
contempt by them, destroyed the illustrious city which had founded many
towns and produced many distinguished characters, whether statesmen or
men of letters,[2143] for when he sought a consort from their city, they
offered him the hangman’s daughter;[2144] but his son (Dionysius the
younger) partly restored it,[2145] and called it Phœbia. During the war
with Pyrrhus, a body of Campanians destroyed most of the citizens
against the faith of treaties,[2146] and a little [CAS. 259] before the
Marsic or social war, earthquakes destroyed most of the towns;[2147] but
after Augustus Cæsar had driven Sextus Pompeius out of Sicily, when he
saw that the city was deficient of inhabitants, he appointed certain of
those who accompanied the expedition to reside there, and it is now
tolerably well peopled. [2148]
7. Sailing 50 stadia from Rhegium towards the east, we meet the cape
called Leucopetra, from the colour of the rock, where they say the range
of the Apennines terminates. [2149] Further on is Heraclæum. [2150] It is
the last promontory, and looks towards the south; for presently on
doubling it the course takes a south-western direction as far as the
promontory of Iapygia,[2151] then it runs towards the north more and
more, and towards the west along the Ionian gulf. After the Herculeum
Promontorium is the headland of Locris, which is called
Zephyrium,[2152] possessing a haven exposed to the west winds, whence is
derived its name. Then is the state of the Locri Epizephyrii, a colony
of Locrians transported by Evanthes from the Crissæan gulf, shortly
after the foundation of Crotona and Syracuse. [2153] Ephorus was not
correct in stating that they were a colony of the Locri Opuntii. [2154]
They remained at first during three or four years at Cape Zephyrium;
afterwards they removed their city, with the assistance of certain
Syracusans who dwelt amongst them. There is also a fountain called
Locria in the place where the Locri first took up their abode. From
Rhegium to the Locri there are 600 stadia. The city is built on a
height, which they call Esopis. [2155]
8. The Locri are believed to have been the first who committed their
laws to writing, but after they had enjoyed the advantage of these good
laws for a very considerable time, Dionysius [the younger], having been
expelled[2156] from Syracuse, found means to abuse them in a most
abominable manner, for he, entering into a private chamber where certain
young brides had been adorned for their nuptials, violated them; he also
gathered the most beautiful virgins to his revels, and having liberated
doves with uncut wings, commanded the young women to chase them round
the apartment in a state of perfect nudity, while on some he bound
sandals of unequal height, one being high and the other low, in order to
make their appearance in the pursuit the more unseemly. However he paid
dearly for this, for having returned to Sicily to resume his government,
the Locri overpowered the guard he had left in their city, freed
themselves, and obtained possession of his wife and children; there were
two of his daughters, and his second son who had already attained the
age of manhood; the eldest, however, called Apollocrates, accompanied
his father in the expedition. And although Dionysius himself entreated
them earnestly, as did also the Tarentines, to deliver the prisoners for
whatever ransom they should name, they remained inexorable, and endured
a siege and the wasting of their country, that they might vent their
rage on his daughters. After having exposed them to the most shameful
[CAS. 260] outrages, they strangled them, burnt their bodies, pounded
their bones, and cast them into the sea. [2157] Ephorus in speaking of
the written law of the Locri, which Zaleucus had most judiciously
selected from the Cretan, Lacedæmonian, and Areopagite codes, says that
Zaleucus was the first to establish this principle, that whereas
formerly lawgivers had left it to the judges to award the punishments
for the several offences, he established a certain penalty in his laws,
thinking that the minds of the judges would not be led to attach the
same penalties for the same transgressions, which course he considered
expedient. He praises him also for having simplified the law of
contracts. [He says also] that the Thurians, being desirous to improve
[the code of Zaleucus] more than the Locri had done, became more
celebrated, but were less judicious. [2158] For that state is not
regulated by the best government, where they guard against all manner of
deceit by their laws, but that wherein they abide by laws simply framed.
Plato also has observed that where there are many laws, there will be
law-suits and evil lives, in the same way as, where there are many
physicians, there it is likely there is much sickness.
9. There is a certain singular circumstance, respecting grasshoppers,
worthy of note. The river Alece[2159] divides Rhegium from Locris,
flowing through a deep ravine; those which are in the territory of the
Locrians sing, but those on the other side are silent; and it is thought
probable that this is caused by the region being woody, and their
membranes being softened by dew do not produce sound; but those on the
Locrian side being sunned, are dry and horny, so that the sound is
easily produced by them. The statue of Eunomus the harper having a
grasshopper seated on his harp is shown at Locri. Timæus says, that this
Eunomus was once contending at the Pythian games and disputed with
Aristo of Rhegium for the prize, and that Aristo declared that the
people of Delphi ought to take part with him, because his ancestors
were consecrated to the god, and sent out to found the colony; but
Eunomus said that they could have no claim to contend for melody with
any one, because that among them even the grasshoppers, who are the most
gifted of all creatures, were mute. Nevertheless Aristo was applauded,
and had hopes of obtaining the victory, but Eunomus was declared
victorious, and dedicated the said statue in his country, because that
at the contest one of the chords of his harp having broken, a
grasshopper taking his stand on it supplied the sound. Above these towns
the Bruttii possess the interior, and there is the city Mamertium,[2160]
and the forest which they call Sila, which produces the best or Bruttian
pitch. [2161] It yields fine trees, and is well watered, extending over a
length of 700 stadia.
10. After the Locri is the [river] Sagras,[2162] in the feminine gender,
on which is situated the altar of the Dioscuri, near which ten thousand
Locrians, with a small body of Rhegians gained a victory over 130,000
Crotoniatæ, whence they say arose the proverb applied to incredulous
people, “It is more true than the victory of the Sagras. ” Some people
add to the mysterious account, that it was announced the same day at the
Olympic games to the people there assembled, and this speedy news was
found perfectly correct. They say that this mischance was so unfortunate
an event to the Crotoniatæ, that after it they did not long remain as a
nation, on account [CAS. 261] of the number of citizens who fell in the
battle. After the Sagras is Caulonia, which was at first called Aulonia,
from the αὐλὼν, or valley, in which it was situated; but it is deserted,
for its former possessors were driven out by the barbarians,[2163] and
have taken refuge in Sicily, and there founded [another] Caulonia. [2164]
After this is Scylletium,[2165] a colony of the Athenians, who set out
under Menestheus;[2166] it is now called Scylacium. [2167] Dionysius [the
elder] allotted a portion of it to the Locri, whilst it was in the
possession of the Crotoniatæ. [2168] The Scylleticus Sinus received its
name from this city. It together with the Hipponiates Sinus forms the
isthmus which we have mentioned above. [2169] Dionysius[2170] undertook
to build a wall across the isthmus, at the time he was carrying on war
against the Leucani, assigning as a pretext that it would afford
security to the inhabitants of the peninsula from the inroads of the
barbarians dwelling beyond it; but in truth his intention was to cut off
the communication of the Greeks with each other, and to have the greater
power over those who dwelt within the peninsula, but those who dwelt
without[2171] assembled and prevented the undertaking.
11. After Scylletium is the region of Crotona, and the Iapygum tria
Promontoria,[2172] and after these the Lacinium,[2173] sacred to Juno,
formerly rich and filled with many offerings. But the distances have not
been accurately stated. We can only say that in a general way Polybius
reckons 2300[2174] stadia from the strait[2175] to Lacinium,[2176] and
700 stadia from Lacinium to the Iapygian promontory. They call this the
entrance of the Gulf of Taranto. The extent of the gulf is considerable,
being 240 miles along the shore. As the chorographer says . . . of 380 . . .
to a light person, Artemidorus: wanting also by so many . . . of the
breadth of the mouth of the gulf. [2177] Its aspect looks towards the
rising of the sun in winter. [2178] It commenced from Lacinium, for
presently on doubling the cape you come to where the Greek cities
formerly stood; now they no longer exist, with the exception of
Tarentum. But on account of the estimation in which certain of them were
held, it is worth while to speak of them somewhat in detail.
12. The first is Crotona, 150 stadia from Lacinium and the river [CAS.
262] Esaro;[2179] there is also a haven[2180] there, and another river
Nieto,[2181] the name whereof is said to be derived from the following
circumstance—they say that certain of the Greeks who had wandered from
the fleet which had besieged Troy, having arrived in this place,
disembarked to take a survey of the country, and that the Trojan women
who accompanied them in the fleet, having observed the absence of the
men, and being wearied with a toilsome voyage, set fire to the fleet, so
that they were compelled to abide, when they saw, in addition [to the
loss of their ships], that the soil was very fertile. Many others
arriving soon after, and being desirous to live near their
fellow-countrymen, founded several settlements. Most of them derived
their names from the Trojans, and the river Nieto received its
appellation from the destruction[2182] [of the ships]. But Antiochus
relates that an oracle having commanded the Greeks to found Crotona,
Myscellus went forth to view the place, and having seen Sybaris already
built on a neighbouring river of the same name, thought it better, and
returned to the god to ask if he might be permitted to settle in that,
instead of the other; but that the oracle answered, applying to him an
epithet noticing his defective stature, (for Myscellus was somewhat
crook-backed,)
“O short-backed Myscellus, whilst seeking somewhat else of thyself,
Thou pursuest only misfortune: it is right to accept that which is
proffered to thee:”[2183]
and that he returned and built Crotona, wherein he was assisted by
Archias,[2184] the founder of Syracuse, who happened to touch at Crotona
by chance, as he was proceeding to the colony of the Syracusans. The
Iapyges possessed Crotona before this time,[2185] as Ephorus relates.
The city cultivated martial discipline and athletic exercises to a
great extent, and in one of the Olympic games all the seven wrestlers,
who obtained the palm in the stadium, were Crotoniatæ; whence, it seems,
the saying arose that the last wrestler of Crotona was the first of the
other Greeks, and hence they say also is the origin of the expression,
“more salubrious than Crotona,” as instancing a place which had
something to show, in the number of wrestlers which it produced, as a
proof of its salubrity and the robust frame of body which it was capable
of rearing. Thus it had many victors in the Olympic games, although it
cannot be reckoned to have been long inhabited on account of the vast
destruction of its citizens, who fell at the battle of the Sagras. Its
celebrity too was not a little spread by the number of Pythagoreans who
resided there, and Milo,[2186] who was the most renowned of wrestlers,
and lived in terms of intimacy with Pythagoras, who abode long in this
city. They relate that at a banquet of the philosophers, when one of the
pillars in the hall gave way, Milo sustained the ceiling while they all
escaped, and afterwards saved himself. It is likely that, trusting to
the same strength, he met his fate as related by some, for whilst making
his way through a thick wood, he strayed considerably out of the path,
when finding a great log with wedges in it, he thrust both his hands and
feet into the fissure, intending to split it completely, but was only
able to force it enough to let the wedges fall out, when the gaping log
presently closed on him, and he, being taken as in a snare, was devoured
by wild beasts.
13. Beyond this, at the distance of 200 stadia, is situated
Sybaris,[2187] a colony settled by the Achæans, between the two [CAS.
263] rivers Crati[2188] and Sybaris. [2189] Its founder was Is. . . . [2190]
the Helicean. [2191] So great was the prosperity enjoyed by this city
anciently, that it held dominion over four neighbouring people and
twenty-five towns; in the war with the Crotoniatæ it brought into the
field 300,000 men, and occupied a circuit of 50 stadia on the Crati. But
on account of the arrogance and turbulence of its citizens, it was
deprived of all its prosperity by the Crotoniatæ in 70[2192] days, who
took the city, and turning the waters of the river [Crati], overwhelmed
it with an inundation. [2193] Some time after, a few who had escaped came
together and inhabited the site of their former city, but in time they
were dispossessed by the Athenians[2194] and other Greeks, who came and
settled amongst them, but they despised and subjugated them, and removed
the city to a neighbouring place, calling its name Thurii, from a
fountain of that name. The water of the river Sybaris has the peculiar
property of making the horses which drink it shy,[2195] for which reason
they keep their horses away from the river. The Crati turns the hair of
those who bathe in it yellow, and sometimes white, but has been found
salutary for the cure of many disorders. Thurii, after having flourished
for a long time, became a continual prey to the aggressions of the
Leucani,[2196] and afterwards the Tarentini troubling them, they
appealed to the Romans for succour, who, in course of time, sent a
colony[2197] when it was nearly deserted, and changed the name of the
city to Copiæ. [2198]
14. After Thurii is Lagaria,[2199] a garrison fort; it was originally
settled by Epeius[2200] and the Phocenses; hence is derived the
Lagaritan wine, sweet and delicate, and much recommended by the
physicians, as is likewise the Thurian wine, which is reckoned among the
best. Then comes the city of Heraclea,[2201] a little way from the sea,
and two navigable rivers, the Agri[2202] and the Sinno,[2203] on which
was the city Siris, founded by a Trojan colony, but in course of time,
when Heraclea was peopled with the citizens of Siris by the Tarentini,
it became the harbour of Heraclea. Its distance from Heraclea was 24
stadia, and from Thurii about 330. [2204] They point out the statue of
the Trojan Minerva, which is erected there, as a proof of its
colonization by the Trojans. They also relate as a miracle how the
statue closed its eyes when the suppliants, who had fled for sanctuary
to her shrine, were dragged away by the Ionians after they had taken the
city;[2205] they say that these Ionians came to settle here, when they
fled from the yoke of the Lydians, and took the town of the
Trojans[2206] by force, calling its name Polieum. They show, too, at the
present time [CAS. 264] the statue that closes its eyes. It must,
however, require a good courage, not to assert that it appeared to have
closed its eyes, as that at Troy turned away its eyes from beholding the
violence offered to Cassandra, but to show it in the act of winking:—but
it is much more daring to make so many statues of the Minerva rescued
from Ilium, as those who describe them affirm, for there is a Minerva
said to be Trojan in the sense of having been rescued from that city,
not only at Siris, but at Rome, at Lavinium, and at Luceria. The scene,
too, of the daring of the Trojan female captives is assigned to many
different places and appears incredible, although it is by no means
impossible. There are some who say that Siris, and also that Sybaris on
the Trionto,[2207] were founded by the Rhodians. Antiochus says that the
site of Siris having become the subject of a contention between the
Tarentini and the Thurii, on that occasion commanded by Cleandridas the
general who had been banished from Lacedæmon, the two people came to a
composition, and agreed to inhabit it in common, but that the
colony[2208] should be considered as Tarentine; however, at a subsequent
period both the name and the locality were changed, and it was called
Heraclea. [2209]
15. Next in order is Metapontium,[2210] at a distance of 140 stadia from
the sea-port of Heraclea. It is said to be a settlement of the Pylians
at the time of their return from Ilium under Nestor; their success in
agriculture was so great, that it is said they offered at Delphi a
golden harvest:[2211] they adduce, as a proof of this foundation, the
offerings of the dead sacrificed periodically to the Neleïdæ;[2212] but
it was destroyed by the Samnites. [2213] Antiochus says that certain
Achæans, who had been sent for by the Achæans of Sybaris, settled in
this place when it had been desolated; he adds that these were sent for
on account of the hatred of the Achæans to the Tarentini, who had
originally migrated from Laconia, in order to prevent their seizing upon
the place which lay adjacent to them. Of the two cities, viz.
Metapontium which was situated the nearer, [and Siris the
further,[2214]] from Tarentum, the new comers preferred to occupy
Metapontium. This choice was suggested by the Sybarites, because, if
they should make good their settlement there, they would also possess
Siris, but if they were to turn to Siris, Metapontium would be annexed
to the territory of the Tarentines which was conterminous. But after
being engaged in war with the Tarentini and the Œnotrians, who dwelt
beyond them, they came to an agreement, securing to them a portion of
land, which should constitute the boundary between Italy, as it then
existed, and Iapygia. This, too, is the locality which tradition assigns
to the adventures of Metapontus and the captive Melanippe, and her son
Bœotus. But Antiochus is of opinion that the city Metapontium was
originally called Metabum, and that its name was altered at a subsequent
period; and that Melanippe was not entertained here but at Dius, and
thinks that the heroum of Metabus as well as the testimony of the poet
Asius, who says that
“The beautiful Melanippe, in the halls of Dius, bare Bœotus,”
afford sufficient proof that Melanippe was led to Dius and not to
Metabum. Ephorus says that Daulius, the tyrant of Crissa[2215] near
Delphi, was the founder of Metapontium. There is, however, another
tradition, that Leucippus was sent by the Achæans to help to found the
colony, and having asked permission of the Tarentini to have the place
for a day and a night, would not give it up, replying by day to those
who [CAS. 265] asked it of him, that he had asked and obtained it till
the following night, and when asked by night, he said that he held it
till the coming day.
Next adjoining is Tarentum and Iapygia, which we will describe when we
shall have first gone through the islands which lie off Italy, according
to our original purpose; for we have always given the adjacent islands
with every nation we have hitherto described, and since we have gone
through Œnotria, which only, the people of ancient times named Italy, we
feel justified in keeping to the same arrangement, and shall pass on to
Sicily and the surrounding islands.
CHAPTER II.
1. Sicily is triangular in form, and on this account was at first called
Trinacria, but afterwards the name was softened and it was changed into
Thrinacia. [2216] Three low headlands bound the figure: Pelorias is the
name of that towards Cænys and the Columna Rheginorum which forms the
strait; Pachynus[2217] is that which stretches towards the east, and is
washed by the Sea of Sicily, looking towards the Peloponnesus and in the
direction of the passage to Crete; the third is Lilybæum,[2218] and is
next to Africa, looking towards that region and the setting of the sun
in winter. [2219] Of the sides which these three headlands bound, two are
somewhat concave, while the third is slightly convex, it runs from
Lilybæum to Pelorias, and is the longest, being, as Posidonius has said,
1700 stadia adding further twenty. Of the others, that extending to
Pachynus from Lilybæum is the longer, while the shortest faces the
Strait and Italy, extending from Pelorias to Pachynus, being about 1120
or 1130 stadia. Posidonius shows that the circumference is 4400 stadia,
but in the Chorography the distances are declared to exceed the above
numbers, being severally reckoned in miles. Thus from Cape Pelorias to
Mylæ,[2220] 25 miles; from Mylæ to Tyndaris,[2221] 25; thence to
Agathyrnum,[2222] 30; from Agathyrnum to Alæsa,[2223] 30; from Alæsa to
Cephalœdium,[2224] 30; these are but insignificant places; from
Cephalœdium to the river Himera,[2225] which runs through the midst of
Sicily, 18; from thence to Panormus,[2226] 35; [thence] to the
Emporium[2227] of the Ægestani, 32; leaving to Lilybæum[2228] a distance
of 38; thence having doubled the Cape and coasting the adjacent side to
Heracleum,[2229] 75; and to the Emporium[2230] of the Agrigentini, 20;
and to[2231] [CAS. 266] Camarina,[2232] another 20; then to Pachynus,
50; thence again along the third side to Syracuse, 36;[2233] from
Syracuse to Catana, 60; then to Tauromenium,[2234] 33; thence to
Messana, 30. [2235] Thus on foot[2236] from Pachynus to Pelorias we have
168 [miles], and from Messana[2237] to [Cape] Lilybæum, on the Via
Valeria,[2238] we have 235[2239] [miles]. Some have estimated the
circuit in a more simple way, as Ephorus, who says that the compass of
the island by sea takes five days and nights. Posidonius attempts to
determine the situation of the island by climata,[2240] and places
Pelorias to the north, Lilybæum to the south, and Pachynus to the east.
We however consider that of necessity all climata are set out in the
manner of a parallelogram, but that districts portrayed as triangles,
and especially such triangles as are scalene,[2241] and whereof no one
side lies parallel to a side of the parallelogram, cannot in any way be
assimilated to climata on account of their obliquity. However, we must
allow, that in treating of Sicily, Pelorias, which lies to the south of
Italy, may well be called the most northern of the three angles, so that
we say that the line which joins it[2242] to Pachynus faces the east but
looks towards the north. [2243] Now this line [of coast] will make the
side next the Strait [of Messina], and it must have a slight inclination
towards the winter sunrise;[2244] for thus the shore slightly changes
its direction as you travel from Catana towards Syracuse and Pachynus.
Now the transit from Pachynus to the mouth of the Alpheus[2245] is 4000
stadia. But when Artemidorus says that from Pachynus to Tænarum[2246] it
is 4600, and from the Alpheus to the Pamisus is 1130 stadia,[2247] he
appears to me to lie open to the objection of having given distances
which do not accord with the 4000 stadia from Pachynus to the Alpheus.
The line run from Pachynus to Lilybæum (which is much to the west of
Pelorias) is considerably diverged from the south towards the west,
having at the same time an aspect looking towards the east and towards
the south. [2248] On one side it is washed by the sea of Sicily, and on
the other by the Libyan Sea, extending from Carthage to the Syrtes. The
shortest run is 1500 stadia from Lilybæum to the coast of Africa about
Carthage; and, according to report, a certain very sharp-sighted
person,[2249] placed on a watch-tower, announced to the Carthaginians
besieged in Lilybæum the number of the ships which were leaving
Carthage. And from Lilybæum to Pelorias the side must necessarily
incline towards the east, and look in a direction towards the west and
north, having Italy to the north, and the Tyrrhenian Sea with the
islands of Æolus to the west. [2250]
2. The cities situated on the side which forms the Strait are, first
Messana, then Tauromenium,[2251] Catana, and Syracuse; between Catana
and Syracuse were the ruined cities Naxos[2252] and Megara,[2253]
situated where the rivers descending from Ætna fall into the sea, and
afford good accommodation for shipping. Here is also the promontory of
Xiphonia. They say that Ephorus founded these first cities of the Greeks
in Sicily in [CAS. 267] the tenth generation from the Trojan war. For
those who preceded him were so terrified by the piratical customs of the
Tyrrheni, and the ferocity of the savages of the neighbourhood, that
they did not even venture to resort thither for the purposes of
commerce. Theocles the Athenian, however, having been driven to Sicily
by storms, observed both the weakness of the inhabitants and the
excellence of the soil. On his return home, he was unable to persuade
the Athenians to make any attempt, but he collected a numerous band of
Chalcidians in Eubœa, with some Ionians and Dorians, whereof the most
part were Megarenses, and sailed. The Chalcidians founded Naxos, and the
Dorians Megara, which was at first called Hybla. These cities no longer
exist, but the name of Hybla survives on account of the Hyblæan honey.
3. The first of the cities which at present remain on the aforesaid side
is Messana, built at the head of the gulf of Pelorias, which is curved
very considerably towards the east, and forms a bay.
At last, however, these men were exterminated by one of the kings, the
oracle having deceived him; but [adds Ephorus] the oracle is still in
existence, though removed to another [CAS. 245] place. Such were the
myths related by our ancestors. But now that the wood surrounding the
Avernus has been cut down by Agrippa, the lands built upon, and a
subterranean passage cut from Avernus to Cumæ, all these appear fables.
Perhaps[1980] Cocceius, who made this subterranean passage,[1981] wished
to follow the practice of the Kimmerians we have already described, or
fancied that it was natural to this place that its roads should be made
under-ground.
6. The Lucrine gulf extends in breadth as far as Baïæ; it is separated
from the sea by a bank eight stadia in length, and the breadth of a
carriage-way; this they say was constructed by Hercules when he drove
away the oxen of Geryon. But as the wave covered its surface in stormy
weather, rendering it difficult to pass on foot, Agrippa has repaired
it. Small vessels can put into it, but it is useless as a harbour. [1982]
It contains abundant oyster-beds. Some take this to be the Acherusian
Lake, while Artemidorus confounds it with Avernus. They say that Baïæ
took its name from Baïus one of the companions of Ulysses, and Misenum
from Misenus. Beyond is the strand and city of Dicæarchia. Formerly it
was nothing but a naval station of the Cumæi. It was built on an
eminence. But at the time of the war with Hannibal, the Romans
established a colony there, and changed its name into Puteoli,[1983] [an
appellation derived] from its wells; or, according to others, from the
stench of its waters, the whole district from hence to Baïæ and Cumæ
being full of sulphur, fire, and hot-springs. Some too are of opinion
that it was on this account [that the country about] Cumæ was named
Phlegra, and that the fables of the giants struck down by thunderbolts
owe their origin to these eruptions of fire and water. This city has
become a place of extensive commerce, having artificially constructed
harbours, which were much facilitated by the facile nature of the sand,
which contains much gypsum, and will cement and consolidate thoroughly.
For mixing this sand with chalk-stones they construct moles in the sea,
thus forming bays along the open coast, in which the largest transport
ships may safely ride. Immediately above the city lies the
Forum-Vulcani,[1984] a plain surrounded with hills which seem to be on
fire, having in many parts mouths emitting smoke, frequently accompanied
by a terrible rumbling noise; the plain itself is full of drifted
sulphur.
7. After Dicæarchia is Neapolis,[1985] [founded[1986] originally] by the
Cumæi, but afterwards being peopled by Chalcidians, and certain
Pithecussæans and Athenians,[1987] it was on this account denominated
Naples. [1988] Here is pointed out the tomb of [CAS. 246] Parthenope, one
of the sirens, and a gymnastic sport is celebrated by command of an
oracle. In course of time the inhabitants, having disagreed amongst
themselves, admitted certain Campanians; thus being forced to regard in
the light of friends those most inimical to them, since their friends
were hostile. This is proved by the names of their demarchi, the earlier
of which are Grecian, but the latter a mixture of Campanian with the
Grecian names. Many traces of Grecian institution are still preserved,
the gymnasia, the ephebeia,[1989] the fratriæ,[1990] and the Grecian
names of people who are Roman citizens. At the present time they
celebrate, every fifth year, public games for music and gymnastic
exercises during many days, which rival the most famous games of Greece.
There is here a subterranean passage, similar to that at Cumæ,[1991]
extending for many stadia along the mountain,[1992] between
Dicæarchia[1993] and Neapolis: it is sufficiently broad to let carriages
pass each other, and light is admitted from the surface of the mountain,
by means of numerous apertures cut through a great depth. [1994] Naples
also has hot springs and baths not at all inferior in quality to those
at Baïæ, but much less frequented, for another city has arisen there,
not less than Dicæarchia, one palace after another having been built.
Naples still preserves the Grecian mode of life, owing to those who
retire hither from Rome for the sake of repose, after a life of labour
from childhood, and to those whose age or weakness demands relaxation.
Besides these, Romans who find attractions in this style of life, and
observe the numbers of persons dwelling there, are attracted by the
place, and make it their abode.
8. Following this is the fortress of Heraclæum,[1995] built upon a
promontory which projects out into the sea, and which, on account of the
prevalence of the south-west wind, is a very healthy spot. The
Osci[1996] originally possessed both this and Pompeia,[1997] which is
next to it, by which the river Sarno[1998] flows; afterwards the
Tyrrheni and Pelasgi,[1999] and then the Samnites[2000] obtained
possession of them, and the last[2001] in their turn were driven from
these regions. Pompeia is the port for Nola,[2002] Nuceria,[2003] and
Acerræ, which bears the same name as the city near to Cremona. It is
built on the river Sarno, by which merchandise is received and exported.
Above these places is Mount Vesuvius, which is covered with very
beautiful fields, excepting its summit, a great part of which is level,
but wholly sterile. It appears ash-coloured to the eye, cavernous
hollows appear formed of blackened stones, looking as if they had been
subjected to the action of fire. From this we may infer that the place
was formerly in a burning state with live craters, which however became
extinguished on the failing of the fuel. Perhaps this [volcano] may have
been the cause of the fertility of the surrounding country, the same as
occurs in Catana, where they say that that portion which has been
covered with ashes thrown up by the fires of Ætna is most excellent for
the vine. The land about Vesuvius contains fat, and a soil which has
been subjected to fire, and is very strong and productive of fruit: when
this fat superabounds, it is apt, like all sulphurous substances, to
take fire, but being dried up by evaporation, extinguished, and
pulverized, it becomes a productive earth. Adjoining [CAS. 247] Pompeia
is Surrentum,[2004] [a city] of the Campanians, from whence the
Athenæum,[2005] called by some the promontory of the Sirenusæ, projects
[into the sea]; upon its summit is the temple of Minerva, founded by
Ulysses. From hence to the island of Capreas the passage is short; after
doubling the promontory you encounter various desert and rocky little
islands, which are called the Sirenusæ. [2006] On the side towards
Surrentum there is shown a temple with the ancient offerings of those
who held this place in veneration. Here is the end of the bay named
Crater,[2007] which is bounded by the two promontories of Misenum[2008]
and the Athenæum, both looking towards the south. The whole is adorned
by the cities we have described, by villas, and plantations, so close
together that to the eye they appear but one city.
9. In front of Misenum lies the island of Prochyta,[2009] which has been
rent from the Pithecussæ. [2010] Pithecussæ was peopled by a colony of
Eretrians and Chalcidians, which was very prosperous on account of the
fertility of the soil and the productive gold-mines; however, they
abandoned the island on account of civil dissensions, and were
ultimately driven out by earthquakes, and eruptions of fire, sea, and
hot waters. It was on account of these eruptions, to which the island is
subject, that the colonists sent by Hiero,[2011] the king of Syracuse,
abandoned the island, together with the town which they had built, when
it was taken possession of by the Neapolitans. This explains the myth
concerning Typhon, who, they say, lies beneath the island, and when he
turns himself, causes flames and water to rush forth, and sometimes even
small islands to rise in the sea, containing springs of hot water.
Pindar throws more credibility into the myth, by making it comformable
to the actual phenomena, for the whole strait from Cumæa to Sicily is
subigneous, and below the sea has certain galleries which form a
communication between [the volcanos[2012] of the islands[2013]] and
those of the mainland. He shows that Ætna is on this account of the
nature described by all, and also the Lipari Islands, with the regions
around Dicæarchia, Neapolis, Baïæ, and the Pithecussæ. And mindful
hereof, [Pindar] says that Typhon lies under the whole of this space.
“Now indeed the sea-girt shores beyond Cumæ, and Sicily,
press on his shaggy breast. ”[2014]
Timæus,[2015] who remarks that many paradoxical accounts were related by
the ancients concerning the Pithecussæ, states, nevertheless, that a
little before his time, Mount Epomeus,[2016] in the middle of the
island, being shaken by an earthquake, vomited forth fire; and that the
land between it and the coast was driven out into the sea. That the
powdered soil, after being whirled on high, was poured down again upon
the island in a whirlwind. That the sea retired from it to a distance of
three stadia, but after remaining so for a short time it returned, and
inundated the island, thus extinguishing the fire. And that the
inhabitants of the continent fled at the noise, from the sea-coast, into
the interior of Campania. It seems that the hot-springs[2017] here are a
remedy for those afflicted with gravel. Capreæ[2018] anciently possessed
two small cities, afterwards but one. The Neapolitans possessed this
island, but having lost Pithecussæ in war, they received it again from
Cæsar Augustus, giving him in exchange Capreæ. This [island] having thus
become the property of that prince, he [CAS. 248] has ornamented it with
numerous edifices. Such then are the maritime cities of Campania, and
the islands lying opposite to it.
10. In the interior is the metropolis, Capua, being, as the etymon of
the name signifies, the head; for in regard to it all the other cities
appear small, excepting Teanum-Sidicinum,[2019] which is a very
considerable place. This city lies on the Via Appia, as also the others
which lead from hence to Brundusium, [viz. ] Callateria,[2020]
Caudium,[2021] and Beneventum. [2022] On the side of Rome is
Casilinum,[2023] situated on the river Vulturnus. [2024] Here 540 men of
Præneste sustained against Hannibal in the height of his power so
desperate a siege, that by reason of the famine, a rat[2025] was sold
for two hundred drachmæ, the seller dying [of hunger], but the purchaser
being saved. Hannibal observing some of them sowing turnip-seed near to
the wall, admired, as well he might, the patient courage of these men,
who hoped to hold out in the mean while, until these turnips should be
ready for food. However, we are assured that they all survived, with the
exception of a few who perished either by famine or in war.
11. In addition to those just spoken of, there are these Campanian
cities which we have already mentioned, viz. Cales,[2026] and
Teanum-Sidicinum, the limits of which are respectively marked out by the
two temples of Fortune situated on either side of the Via Latina.
Besides these are Suessula,[2027] Atella,[2028] Nola,[2029]
Nuceria,[2030] Acerræ,[2031] Abella,[2032] with other smaller
settlements, some of which are said to be Samnite. [2033] The Samnites,
by making incursions into Latium as far as Ardea, and afterwards
devastating Campania itself, greatly extended their power. The
Campanians, being otherwise accustomed to a despotic government, yielded
ready obedience to their commands. At the present day they have been
almost entirely exterminated by the various Roman generals, and last of
all by Sulla, who was absolute master of the republic. He, after having
by numerous battles extinguished the Italian revolt, observing that the
Samnites, almost without exception, remained in one body, and with one
sole intention, so that they had even marched upon Rome itself, gave
them battle under the walls, and as he had issued orders to make no
prisoners, many of them were cut to pieces on the field, while the
remainder, said to be about three or four thousand men, who threw down
their arms, were led off to the _Villa Publica_ in the Campus Martius,
and there shut in; three days after soldiers were sent in who massacred
the whole; and when [Sulla] drew up his conscription list, he did not
rest satisfied until he had destroyed, or driven from Italy, every one
who bore a Samnite name. To those who reproached him for this animosity,
he replied that he had learned by experience that not a single Roman
could rest in peace so long as any of the Samnites survived. Thus their
cities have now dwindled into villages, some indeed being entirely
deserted, as Boianum,[2034] Æsernia,[2035] Panna, Telesia[2036]
adjoining Venafrum, and others similar, none of which can be looked upon
as cities; but in a country so renowned and powerful as Italy, we
thought proper to mention places even of second-rate importance. [We
should add that] Beneventum[2037] and Venusia[2038] are still
prosperous.
12. The following is the tradition concerning the [origin of the]
Samnites. The Sabines having been engaged for [CAS. 250] a long period
in war with the Ombrici, made a vow, common with some of the Grecian
nations, that they would consecrate to the gods the productions of the
year. [2039] They were victorious, and accordingly of the
productions,[2040] the one kind were sacrificed, the other consecrated.
However, in a time of scarcity, some one remarked, that they ought
likewise to have consecrated the children. This then they did, and the
children born at that period were called the sons of Mars. [2041] When
these had grown up to manhood, they were sent forth, a bull leading the
way, to found a colony. The bull lay down to rest in a place belonging
to the Opici; a people dwelling in villages. These they drove out, and
established themselves in the place. The bull, according to the
direction of the diviners, they sacrificed to Mars, who had given him to
them as a leader. It seems to have been in allusion to this that their
parents called them by the diminutive form of Sabelli. [2042] The name of
Samnites, or, as the Greeks call them, Saunites, originated in another
cause. It is also said that certain Lacedæmonians came to dwell amongst
them, and that this is the reason of their affection for the Greeks, and
that certain of them are called Pitanatæ. [2043] The whole of this,
however, appears to be a mere fabrication of the Tarentini, interested
in flattering and conciliating to themselves a neighbouring people, so
powerful as to be able, on a time, to bring into the field a force of
eighty thousand foot-soldiers, and eight thousand cavalry. There is said
to be a law amongst the Samnites, excellent in itself, and calculated to
excite to virtue. It is not lawful for fathers to give away their
daughters to whomsoever they may please; but every year ten of the most
virtuous young women, and ten of the most virtuous young men, are
selected; of these the most excellent young man is married to the most
excellent young woman, the second to the second, and so on in order.
Should he who receives this reward, afterwards change and become wicked,
he is dishonoured, and the wife who had been given is taken away from
him. Beyond are the Hirpini, who are also Samnites: their name they take
from the wolf, which conducted their colony; a wolf being called by the
Samnites _hirpos_: these people border on the Leucani in the interior.
So much for the Samnites.
13. The fertility of their country has been productive to the Campanians
of as much evil as good. Their luxury ran to such a height, that they
would invite to supper, in order to exhibit pairs of fighting
gladiators, the exact number of pairs being regulated according to the
distinction of the guests. When, on their voluntary submission to
Hannibal, they received his soldiers into winter quarters,[2044] the
pleasures [of the place] rendered the men so effeminate, that Hannibal
said, although conqueror, that he was in danger of the enemy, since his
soldiers were returned to him women, and no longer men. When the Romans
obtained the mastery,[2045] they inflicted on them numerous ills, and
ended by distributing their land by lot. [2046] At the present day they
are living in prosperity, and on friendly terms with the [Roman]
colonists, and preserve their ancient reputation, both in respect to the
size of their city and the numbers of their population. Beyond Campania
and the Samnites,[2047] and upon the Tyrrhenian Sea, dwells the nation
of the Picentini. This is a small off-shoot from the Picentini who dwell
near the Adriatic, and was transplanted by the Romans to the Posidoniate
Gulf,[2048] now called the Gulf of Pæstum. The city of Posidonia, which
is built about the middle of the gulf, is called Pæstum. [2049] The
Sybarites [when they founded the city[2050]] built the fortifications
close upon the sea, but the inhabitants removed higher up. In after
time[2051] the Leucani seized upon the city, but in their turn were
deprived of it by the Romans. [2052] It is rendered unhealthy by a
river[2053] [CAS. 251] which overflows the marshy districts in the
neighbourhood. Between the Sirenussæ and Posidonia[2054] is
Marcina,[2055] a city founded by the Tyrrheni, but inhabited by the
Samnites. [To go] from thence into Pompæa,[2056] through Nuceria,[2057]
[you cross] an isthmus of not more than 120 stadia. The Picentes extend
as far as the river Silaro,[2058] which separates their country on this
side from ancient Leucania. [2059] The water of this river is reported to
possess the singular property of petrifying any plant thrown into it,
preserving at the same time both the colour and form. [2060] Picentia was
formerly the capital of the Picentes; but they now dwell in villages,
having been ejected by the Romans[2061] for taking part with Hannibal.
Also, instead of doing military service, it has been decreed that they
shall be the public daily couriers and letter-carriers; [a penalty]
which for the same cause has been likewise inflicted on the Leucani and
Bruttii. To keep them in check, the Romans fortified Salernum, which is
a little above the sea. The distance from the Sirenussæ to the Silaro is
260 stadia.
BOOK VI.
ITALY.
SUMMARY.
The Sixth Book contains the remainder of Italy, and the regions
within the Adriatic, as far as Macedonia; likewise a description
of Apulia, Calabria, the country by the Ionian Gulf, together
with the adjacent islands, from Sicily to the Ceraunian
mountains, and on the other side as far as Carthage, and the
small islands lying near to it.
CHAPTER I.
1. After the mouth of the Silaro,[2062] is Leucania, and the temple of
Argive Juno, founded by Jason. Near to this, within 50 stadia, is
Posidonia. [2063] Sailing thence, towards the high sea, is the island of
Leucosia,[2064] at a little distance from the mainland. It bears the
name of one of the Sirens, who according to the mythology was cast up
here, after having been precipitated with her companions into the deep.
The promontory[2065] of the island projects opposite the
Sirenussæ,[2066] forming the bay of Posidonium. [2067] After having made
this cape there is another contiguous bay, on which is built the city
which the Phocæans called Hyela when they founded it, but others Ela
from a certain fountain. People in the present day call it Elea. It is
here that Parmenides and Zeno, the Pythagorean philosophers, were born.
And it is my opinion that through the instrumentality of those men, as
well as by previous good management, the government of that place was
well arranged, so that they successfully resisted the Leucani and the
Posidoniatæ, notwithstanding the smallness of their district and the
inferiority of their numbers. They are [CAS. 252] compelled, therefore,
on account of the barrenness of the soil, to apply to maritime trade
chiefly, to employ themselves in the salting of fish, and in such other
occupations. Antiochus[2068] says that when Phocea was taken by
Harpagus, the general of Cyrus, those who had the means embarked with
their families, and sailed under the conduct of Creontiades, first to
Cyrnos and Marseilles, but having been driven thence, they founded
Elea;[2069] the name of which some say is derived from the river
Elees. [2070] The city is distant about two hundred stadia from
Posidonia. After this city is the promontory of Palinurus. But in front
of the Eleatis are the Œnotrides, two islands[2071] having good
anchorage. [2072] And beyond Palinurus are the promontory, harbour, and
river of Pyxus;[2073] the three having the same name. This colony was
founded[2074] by Micythus, then governor of Messina in Sicily; but those
who were located here, except a few, abandoned the place. After Pyxus
are the gulf,[2075] the river,[2076] and the city[2077] of Laüs. This,
the last[2078] city of the Leucani, situate a little above the sea, is a
colony[2079] of the Sybarites, and is distant from Elea 400 stadia. The
whole circuit of Leucania, by sea is 650 stadia. Near to Laüs is seen
the tomb of Draco, one of the companions of Ulysses, and the oracular
response, given to the Italian Greeks, alludes to him:
“Some day, around the Dragon’s stony tomb,
A mighty multitude shall meet their doom. ”
For the Greeks of Italy, enticed by this prophecy, marched against Laüs
and were defeated by the Leucani. [2080]
2. Such, along the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, are the possessions of
the Leucani, which at first did not reach to the other sea;[2081] the
Greeks who dwelt on the Gulf of Tarentum possessed it. But before the
coming of the Greeks there were no Leucani, the Chones[2082] and Œnotri
possessed these territories. But when the Samnites had greatly
increased, and expelled the Chones and Œnotri, and driven the Leucani
into this region, while the Greeks possessed the sea-coast on both
sides as far as the straits, the Greeks and the Barbarians maintained a
lengthened contest. The tyrants of Sicily, and afterwards the
Carthaginians, at one time making war against the Romans, for the
acquisition of Sicily, and at another, for Italy itself, utterly wasted
all these regions. The Greeks, however, succeeded in depriving the
ancient inhabitants of a great portion of the midland country, beginning
even as early as the Trojan war; they increased in power, and extent of
territory, to such a degree, that they called this region and Sicily,
the _Magna Græcia_. But now the whole region, except Tarentum, Rhegium,
and Neapolis, has become barbarian,[2083] and belongs partly to the
Leucani and Bruttii, partly to the Campani; to these, however, only in
name, but truly to the Romans; for these people have become Roman.
However, it is incumbent on one who is treating of [CAS. 253] universal
geography, to speak both of things as they now are, and of some of those
that have been, and especially when they are important. Of the Leucani,
who border upon the Tuscan Sea, mention has already been made; those who
possess the midland regions dwell above the Gulf of Tarentum, but these,
as well as the Bruttii, and the Samnites themselves, the progenitors of
both, have been so maltreated [by the Romans], that it is difficult to
determine the boundaries of each people. The reason of this is, that
there no longer remains separately any of the institutions common to
these nations; and their peculiarities of language, of military and
civil costume, and such particulars, have passed away; besides, even
their places of abode, considered separately and apart, possess nothing
worthy of observation.
3. We will narrate in a general manner what we have gathered concerning
the Leucani, who dwell in the interior, without too much care in
distinguishing them from their neighbours, the Samnites. Petilia[2084]
is considered as the metropolis of the Leucani, and is still well
peopled. It owes its foundation to Philoctetes, who was compelled to
quit Melibœa on account of civil dissensions. Its position is so strong,
that the Samnites were formerly obliged to construct forts around it for
the defence of their territory. The ancient Crimissa, situated near
these places, was also founded by Philoctetes. Apollodorus, in his
description of the ships [of the Greeks], narrates concerning
Philoctetes, that, according to certain writers, this prince having
disembarked in the district of Crotona, settled on the promontory of
Crimissa, and built the city of Chone[2085] above it, from which the
inhabitants were called Chones; and that certain colonists being sent by
him into Sicily, to the neighbourhood of Eryx,[2086] with Ægestus the
Trojan, founded Ægesta. [2087] In the inland districts are also
Grumentum,[2088] Vertinæ,[2089] Calasarna,[2090] and other small
villages, reaching as far as Venusia,[2091] a city of some importance.
This, however, I consider to be a Samnite city, as are also those which
are next met with on going into Campania. Above the Thurii lies the
district called Tauriana. [2092] The Leucani are of Samnite origin.
Having vanquished the Posidoniates and their allies, they took
possession of their cities. At one time the institutions of the Leucani
were democratic, but during the wars a king was elected by those who
were possessed of chief authority: at the present time they are Roman.
4. The Bruttii occupy the remainder of the coast as far as the Strait of
Sicily, extending about 1350 stadia. Antiochus, in his treatise on
Italy, says that this district, which he intended to describe, was
called Italy, but that previously it had been called Œnotria. The
boundary which he assigns to it on the Tyrrhenian Sea, is the river
Lao,[2093] and on the Sea of Sicily Metapontium, the former of which we
have given as the boundary of the Bruttii. He describes Tarentum, which
is next to Metapontium,[2094] as beyond Italy, calling it Iapygian. He
also relates that, at a more ancient period, those who dwelt on this
side the isthmus, which lies next the Strait of Sicily, were the only
people who were called Œnotrians and Italians. The isthmus is 160 stadia
across between the two gulfs, namely, that of Hipponium,[2095] which
Antiochus called Napitinus, and [CAS. 255] that of Scylletium. [2096] The
circumnavigation of the peninsula, which is comprised between this
isthmus and the strait, is 2000 stadia. He says that afterwards the
names of Italy and of the Œnotrians were extended as far as Metapontium
and the Siritis; the Chones, a people of Œnotrian descent, and highly
civilized, inhabited these districts, and called their country Chone.
However, this author has written in a very loose and old-fashioned
manner, without giving any definite boundaries to the Leucani and
Bruttii. Now Leucania is situated on the Tyrrhenian and Sicilian Seas,
extending on one coast from the Silaro[2097] to the river Lao, and on
the other from Metapontium[2098] to Thurii. Along the continent it
stretches from the country of the Samnites, as far as the isthmus
between Thurii and Cerilli,[2099] near the Lao. This isthmus is 300
stadia[2100] across. Beyond are the Bruttii, who dwell on the peninsula;
in this is included another peninsula, which is bounded by the isthmus
between Scylletium[2101] and the Hipponiate gulf. [2102] The nation
received its appellation from the Leucani, for they call runaways
Bruttii, and they say that formerly they ran away from them when
employed as shepherds, and that afterwards their independence was
established through the weakness [of the Leucani], when Dion [of
Syracuse] was prosecuting a war against [the younger] Dionysius, and
fomented hostilities amongst all. [2103] This is all we shall remark as
to the Leucani and Bruttii.
5. From the Lao the first city is the Temesa[2104] of the Bruttii,
which at present is called Tempsa. It was founded by the Ausonians;
afterwards the Ætolians, under the command of Thoas, gained possession
of it. These were expelled by the Bruttii; Hannibal and the Romans have
overthrown the Bruttii.
[2105] In the vicinity of Temesa is the Heroum of
Polites, one of the companions of Ulysses. It is surrounded by a thick
grove of wild olives. He was treacherously slain by the barbarians, and
became in consequence very wrathful, and his shade so tormented the
inhabitants that they submitted to pay him a tribute, according to the
direction of a certain oracle. Thus it became a proverb amongst them,
“Let no one offend the hero of Temesa,” for they said that [for a long
time he[2106]] had tormented them. But when the Epizephyrian Locrians
took the city, they feign that Euthymus the pugilist went out against
him, and having overcome him in fight, constrained him to free the
inhabitants from tribute. [2107] They say that the poet intended this
Temesa, and not the Tamassus[2108] in Cyprus, (for it is said that the
words are suitable to either,[2109]) when he sings,
“in quest of brass
To Temesa. ”[2110]
[CAS. 256] and certain copper-mines are pointed out near to the place,
which are now exhausted. Contiguous to it is Terina,[2111] which
Hannibal destroyed, when he found he could no longer retain it; at the
time when he took refuge in the country of the Bruttii. [2112] Next in
order comes Cosentia,[2113] the metropolis of the Bruttii. A little
above it is Pandosia, which is strongly fortified, before which
Alexander the Molossian king was overthrown. This prince was led astray
by the oracle of Dodona, which commanded him to avoid Acheron and
Pandosia;[2114] for places with names like these being pointed out in
Thesprotia, caused him to lose his life[2115] here. The position has
three summits, and the river Acheron flows by it. He was also mistaken
in another oracle,
“O Pandosia, thou three-topp’d hill,
Hereafter many people thou shalt kill;”
for he thought that it foreshowed the destruction of his enemies, and
not of his own people. They say that Pandosia[2116] was formerly the
residence of the Œnotrian kings. After Cosentia is Hipponium,[2117]
founded by the Locrians. [2118] The Romans took it from the Bruttii, who
were in possession of it at a subsequent period, and changed the name
into Vibo-Valentia. [2119] And because the meadows in its vicinity are
luxuriant and full of flowers, it is supposed that Proserpine came over
from Sicily to gather them, and from thence the custom among women of
this city, to gather flowers and plait garlands, prevailed to such an
extent, that they now think it shameful to wear purchased garlands at
the festivals. [2120] It also possesses a harbour[2121] made by
Agathocles,[2122] the tyrant of Sicily, when he was in possession of the
town. On sailing hence to the Portus Herculis,[2123] we come to the
point where the headlands of Italy, as they stretch towards the Strait
[of Sicily], begin to turn westward. In this voyage we pass Medma,[2124]
a city of the same Locrians,[2125] which bears the name of a copious
fountain, and possessing at a short distance a naval station, called
Emporium. [2126] Very nigh is the river Metauro,[2127] as also a naval
station bearing the same name. [2128] The Lipari Isles lie off this
coast; they are distant 200 stadia from the strait. They say that they
are the islands of Æolus, of whom the poet makes [CAS. 257] mention in
the Odyssey. [2129] They are seven in number, and are all easily
distinguished both from Sicily and the coast of the continent about
Medma. We will speak of them in particular when we describe Sicily.
After the river Metaurus, there is another Metaurus. [2130] Next in order
is Scyllæum, an elevated cliff nearly surrounded by the sea. But
connected with the mainland by a low isthmus easily accessible on either
side, which Anaxilaus, the tyrant of Rhegium, fortified against the
Tyrrheni, and formed a commodious haven, and thus prevented the pirates
from passing through the strait. Next to the Scyllæan promontory was
that of Cænys, distant from Medma 250 stadia. It is the last headland,
and forms the narrowest part of the Strait [of Sicily], being opposite
to Cape Pelorus on the Sicilian side, which is one of the three points
which give to that island the form of a triangle. Its aspect is towards
the rising of the sun in summer, whilst that of Cænys looks towards the
west. Indeed they both seem to have diverged from the general line of
coast in order to stand out opposite each other. [2131] From Cænys to the
Posidonium[2132] [and] the Columna Rheginorum,[2133] the narrow part of
the strait stretches as much as 6 stadia, the shortest passage across
the strait is a little more. From the Columna [Rheginorum] to Rhegium,
where the strait begins to widen, is a hundred [stadia] as you advance
in a direction towards the exterior and eastern sea, which is called the
sea of Sicily.
6. Rhegium[2134] was founded by certain Chalcidenses, who, as they say,
were decimated as an offering to Apollo in a time of scarcity, by order
of an oracle, and afterwards removed hither from Delphi, taking with
them certain others from home. As Antiochus says, the Zanclæans sent for
the Chalcidenses, and appointed Antimnestus chief over them. Certain
fugitives of the Messenians of Peloponnesus accompanied this colony, who
had been compelled to fly by those who refused to give satisfaction to
the Lacedæmonians for the violation[2135] of the virgins at Limnæ, whom
they had abused when attending the religious festival, and had slain
those who assisted them. However when the fugitives had removed to
Macistus, they sent to the oracle complaining against Apollo and Diana
for suffering these things to happen notwithstanding they so greatly
honoured them, and inquiring how the devoted might be saved. Apollo
commanded to send them with the Chalcidenses to Rhegium, and to be
grateful, therefore, to his sister Diana for that they were not lost but
saved, as they should not be destroyed with their country, which would
be annihilated shortly after by the Spartans. [2136] They acted in
accordance with the oracle, and thus it was that the rulers of the
Rhegini were all of Messenian race until the time of Anaxilaus.
Antiochus asserts that anciently the whole of this district was
inhabited by Sicilians and Morgetes; and that they [CAS. 258] afterwards
passed into Sicily when they were expelled by the Œnotri. Some say that
Morgantium[2137] thus received its name from the Morgetes. But the city
of the Rhegini became very powerful, and possessed many dependent
settlements. It has always been a bulwark for us against the island [of
Sicily], and, indeed, has recently served to that purpose when Sextus
Pompeius alienated Sicily. [2138] It was called Rhegium either, as
Æschylus says, because of the convulsion which had taken place in this
region; for Sicily was broken from the continent by earthquakes,
“Whence it is called Rhegium. ”[2139]
Others,[2140] as well as he, have affirmed the same thing, and adduce as
an evidence that which is observed about Ætna, and the appearances seen
in other parts of Sicily, the Lipari and neighbouring islands, and even
in the Pithecussæ, with the whole coast beyond them, which prove that it
was not unlikely that this convulsion had taken place. But now these
mouths being opened, through which the fire is drawn up, and the ardent
masses and water poured out, they say that the land in the neighbourhood
of the Strait of Sicily rarely suffers from the effects of earthquakes;
but formerly all the passages to the surface being blocked up, the fire
which was smouldering beneath the earth, together with the vapour,
occasioned terrible earthquakes, and the regions, being disturbed by the
force of the pent-up winds, sometimes gave way, and being rent received
the sea, which flowed in from either side; and thus were formed both
this strait and the sea which surrounds the other islands in the
neighbourhood. For Prochyta[2141] and the Pithecussæ, as well as
Capreæ, Leucosia, the Sirenes, and the Œnotrides, are but so many
detached fragments from the continent, but other islands have risen from
the bottom of the sea, a circumstance which frequently occurs in many
places; for it is more reasonable to think that the islands in the midst
of the sea have been raised up from the bottom, and that those which lie
off headlands and are separated merely by a strait were broken off from
them. Still it is beside our purpose to investigate thoroughly whether
the name were given to the city for these causes, or whether it were
named by the Samnites from the Latin word regium, which signifies royal,
on account of its importance,[2142] for their chieftains participated in
the privileges of citizenship with the Romans, and generally used the
Latin language. But Dionysius (the elder), having been treated with
contempt by them, destroyed the illustrious city which had founded many
towns and produced many distinguished characters, whether statesmen or
men of letters,[2143] for when he sought a consort from their city, they
offered him the hangman’s daughter;[2144] but his son (Dionysius the
younger) partly restored it,[2145] and called it Phœbia. During the war
with Pyrrhus, a body of Campanians destroyed most of the citizens
against the faith of treaties,[2146] and a little [CAS. 259] before the
Marsic or social war, earthquakes destroyed most of the towns;[2147] but
after Augustus Cæsar had driven Sextus Pompeius out of Sicily, when he
saw that the city was deficient of inhabitants, he appointed certain of
those who accompanied the expedition to reside there, and it is now
tolerably well peopled. [2148]
7. Sailing 50 stadia from Rhegium towards the east, we meet the cape
called Leucopetra, from the colour of the rock, where they say the range
of the Apennines terminates. [2149] Further on is Heraclæum. [2150] It is
the last promontory, and looks towards the south; for presently on
doubling it the course takes a south-western direction as far as the
promontory of Iapygia,[2151] then it runs towards the north more and
more, and towards the west along the Ionian gulf. After the Herculeum
Promontorium is the headland of Locris, which is called
Zephyrium,[2152] possessing a haven exposed to the west winds, whence is
derived its name. Then is the state of the Locri Epizephyrii, a colony
of Locrians transported by Evanthes from the Crissæan gulf, shortly
after the foundation of Crotona and Syracuse. [2153] Ephorus was not
correct in stating that they were a colony of the Locri Opuntii. [2154]
They remained at first during three or four years at Cape Zephyrium;
afterwards they removed their city, with the assistance of certain
Syracusans who dwelt amongst them. There is also a fountain called
Locria in the place where the Locri first took up their abode. From
Rhegium to the Locri there are 600 stadia. The city is built on a
height, which they call Esopis. [2155]
8. The Locri are believed to have been the first who committed their
laws to writing, but after they had enjoyed the advantage of these good
laws for a very considerable time, Dionysius [the younger], having been
expelled[2156] from Syracuse, found means to abuse them in a most
abominable manner, for he, entering into a private chamber where certain
young brides had been adorned for their nuptials, violated them; he also
gathered the most beautiful virgins to his revels, and having liberated
doves with uncut wings, commanded the young women to chase them round
the apartment in a state of perfect nudity, while on some he bound
sandals of unequal height, one being high and the other low, in order to
make their appearance in the pursuit the more unseemly. However he paid
dearly for this, for having returned to Sicily to resume his government,
the Locri overpowered the guard he had left in their city, freed
themselves, and obtained possession of his wife and children; there were
two of his daughters, and his second son who had already attained the
age of manhood; the eldest, however, called Apollocrates, accompanied
his father in the expedition. And although Dionysius himself entreated
them earnestly, as did also the Tarentines, to deliver the prisoners for
whatever ransom they should name, they remained inexorable, and endured
a siege and the wasting of their country, that they might vent their
rage on his daughters. After having exposed them to the most shameful
[CAS. 260] outrages, they strangled them, burnt their bodies, pounded
their bones, and cast them into the sea. [2157] Ephorus in speaking of
the written law of the Locri, which Zaleucus had most judiciously
selected from the Cretan, Lacedæmonian, and Areopagite codes, says that
Zaleucus was the first to establish this principle, that whereas
formerly lawgivers had left it to the judges to award the punishments
for the several offences, he established a certain penalty in his laws,
thinking that the minds of the judges would not be led to attach the
same penalties for the same transgressions, which course he considered
expedient. He praises him also for having simplified the law of
contracts. [He says also] that the Thurians, being desirous to improve
[the code of Zaleucus] more than the Locri had done, became more
celebrated, but were less judicious. [2158] For that state is not
regulated by the best government, where they guard against all manner of
deceit by their laws, but that wherein they abide by laws simply framed.
Plato also has observed that where there are many laws, there will be
law-suits and evil lives, in the same way as, where there are many
physicians, there it is likely there is much sickness.
9. There is a certain singular circumstance, respecting grasshoppers,
worthy of note. The river Alece[2159] divides Rhegium from Locris,
flowing through a deep ravine; those which are in the territory of the
Locrians sing, but those on the other side are silent; and it is thought
probable that this is caused by the region being woody, and their
membranes being softened by dew do not produce sound; but those on the
Locrian side being sunned, are dry and horny, so that the sound is
easily produced by them. The statue of Eunomus the harper having a
grasshopper seated on his harp is shown at Locri. Timæus says, that this
Eunomus was once contending at the Pythian games and disputed with
Aristo of Rhegium for the prize, and that Aristo declared that the
people of Delphi ought to take part with him, because his ancestors
were consecrated to the god, and sent out to found the colony; but
Eunomus said that they could have no claim to contend for melody with
any one, because that among them even the grasshoppers, who are the most
gifted of all creatures, were mute. Nevertheless Aristo was applauded,
and had hopes of obtaining the victory, but Eunomus was declared
victorious, and dedicated the said statue in his country, because that
at the contest one of the chords of his harp having broken, a
grasshopper taking his stand on it supplied the sound. Above these towns
the Bruttii possess the interior, and there is the city Mamertium,[2160]
and the forest which they call Sila, which produces the best or Bruttian
pitch. [2161] It yields fine trees, and is well watered, extending over a
length of 700 stadia.
10. After the Locri is the [river] Sagras,[2162] in the feminine gender,
on which is situated the altar of the Dioscuri, near which ten thousand
Locrians, with a small body of Rhegians gained a victory over 130,000
Crotoniatæ, whence they say arose the proverb applied to incredulous
people, “It is more true than the victory of the Sagras. ” Some people
add to the mysterious account, that it was announced the same day at the
Olympic games to the people there assembled, and this speedy news was
found perfectly correct. They say that this mischance was so unfortunate
an event to the Crotoniatæ, that after it they did not long remain as a
nation, on account [CAS. 261] of the number of citizens who fell in the
battle. After the Sagras is Caulonia, which was at first called Aulonia,
from the αὐλὼν, or valley, in which it was situated; but it is deserted,
for its former possessors were driven out by the barbarians,[2163] and
have taken refuge in Sicily, and there founded [another] Caulonia. [2164]
After this is Scylletium,[2165] a colony of the Athenians, who set out
under Menestheus;[2166] it is now called Scylacium. [2167] Dionysius [the
elder] allotted a portion of it to the Locri, whilst it was in the
possession of the Crotoniatæ. [2168] The Scylleticus Sinus received its
name from this city. It together with the Hipponiates Sinus forms the
isthmus which we have mentioned above. [2169] Dionysius[2170] undertook
to build a wall across the isthmus, at the time he was carrying on war
against the Leucani, assigning as a pretext that it would afford
security to the inhabitants of the peninsula from the inroads of the
barbarians dwelling beyond it; but in truth his intention was to cut off
the communication of the Greeks with each other, and to have the greater
power over those who dwelt within the peninsula, but those who dwelt
without[2171] assembled and prevented the undertaking.
11. After Scylletium is the region of Crotona, and the Iapygum tria
Promontoria,[2172] and after these the Lacinium,[2173] sacred to Juno,
formerly rich and filled with many offerings. But the distances have not
been accurately stated. We can only say that in a general way Polybius
reckons 2300[2174] stadia from the strait[2175] to Lacinium,[2176] and
700 stadia from Lacinium to the Iapygian promontory. They call this the
entrance of the Gulf of Taranto. The extent of the gulf is considerable,
being 240 miles along the shore. As the chorographer says . . . of 380 . . .
to a light person, Artemidorus: wanting also by so many . . . of the
breadth of the mouth of the gulf. [2177] Its aspect looks towards the
rising of the sun in winter. [2178] It commenced from Lacinium, for
presently on doubling the cape you come to where the Greek cities
formerly stood; now they no longer exist, with the exception of
Tarentum. But on account of the estimation in which certain of them were
held, it is worth while to speak of them somewhat in detail.
12. The first is Crotona, 150 stadia from Lacinium and the river [CAS.
262] Esaro;[2179] there is also a haven[2180] there, and another river
Nieto,[2181] the name whereof is said to be derived from the following
circumstance—they say that certain of the Greeks who had wandered from
the fleet which had besieged Troy, having arrived in this place,
disembarked to take a survey of the country, and that the Trojan women
who accompanied them in the fleet, having observed the absence of the
men, and being wearied with a toilsome voyage, set fire to the fleet, so
that they were compelled to abide, when they saw, in addition [to the
loss of their ships], that the soil was very fertile. Many others
arriving soon after, and being desirous to live near their
fellow-countrymen, founded several settlements. Most of them derived
their names from the Trojans, and the river Nieto received its
appellation from the destruction[2182] [of the ships]. But Antiochus
relates that an oracle having commanded the Greeks to found Crotona,
Myscellus went forth to view the place, and having seen Sybaris already
built on a neighbouring river of the same name, thought it better, and
returned to the god to ask if he might be permitted to settle in that,
instead of the other; but that the oracle answered, applying to him an
epithet noticing his defective stature, (for Myscellus was somewhat
crook-backed,)
“O short-backed Myscellus, whilst seeking somewhat else of thyself,
Thou pursuest only misfortune: it is right to accept that which is
proffered to thee:”[2183]
and that he returned and built Crotona, wherein he was assisted by
Archias,[2184] the founder of Syracuse, who happened to touch at Crotona
by chance, as he was proceeding to the colony of the Syracusans. The
Iapyges possessed Crotona before this time,[2185] as Ephorus relates.
The city cultivated martial discipline and athletic exercises to a
great extent, and in one of the Olympic games all the seven wrestlers,
who obtained the palm in the stadium, were Crotoniatæ; whence, it seems,
the saying arose that the last wrestler of Crotona was the first of the
other Greeks, and hence they say also is the origin of the expression,
“more salubrious than Crotona,” as instancing a place which had
something to show, in the number of wrestlers which it produced, as a
proof of its salubrity and the robust frame of body which it was capable
of rearing. Thus it had many victors in the Olympic games, although it
cannot be reckoned to have been long inhabited on account of the vast
destruction of its citizens, who fell at the battle of the Sagras. Its
celebrity too was not a little spread by the number of Pythagoreans who
resided there, and Milo,[2186] who was the most renowned of wrestlers,
and lived in terms of intimacy with Pythagoras, who abode long in this
city. They relate that at a banquet of the philosophers, when one of the
pillars in the hall gave way, Milo sustained the ceiling while they all
escaped, and afterwards saved himself. It is likely that, trusting to
the same strength, he met his fate as related by some, for whilst making
his way through a thick wood, he strayed considerably out of the path,
when finding a great log with wedges in it, he thrust both his hands and
feet into the fissure, intending to split it completely, but was only
able to force it enough to let the wedges fall out, when the gaping log
presently closed on him, and he, being taken as in a snare, was devoured
by wild beasts.
13. Beyond this, at the distance of 200 stadia, is situated
Sybaris,[2187] a colony settled by the Achæans, between the two [CAS.
263] rivers Crati[2188] and Sybaris. [2189] Its founder was Is. . . . [2190]
the Helicean. [2191] So great was the prosperity enjoyed by this city
anciently, that it held dominion over four neighbouring people and
twenty-five towns; in the war with the Crotoniatæ it brought into the
field 300,000 men, and occupied a circuit of 50 stadia on the Crati. But
on account of the arrogance and turbulence of its citizens, it was
deprived of all its prosperity by the Crotoniatæ in 70[2192] days, who
took the city, and turning the waters of the river [Crati], overwhelmed
it with an inundation. [2193] Some time after, a few who had escaped came
together and inhabited the site of their former city, but in time they
were dispossessed by the Athenians[2194] and other Greeks, who came and
settled amongst them, but they despised and subjugated them, and removed
the city to a neighbouring place, calling its name Thurii, from a
fountain of that name. The water of the river Sybaris has the peculiar
property of making the horses which drink it shy,[2195] for which reason
they keep their horses away from the river. The Crati turns the hair of
those who bathe in it yellow, and sometimes white, but has been found
salutary for the cure of many disorders. Thurii, after having flourished
for a long time, became a continual prey to the aggressions of the
Leucani,[2196] and afterwards the Tarentini troubling them, they
appealed to the Romans for succour, who, in course of time, sent a
colony[2197] when it was nearly deserted, and changed the name of the
city to Copiæ. [2198]
14. After Thurii is Lagaria,[2199] a garrison fort; it was originally
settled by Epeius[2200] and the Phocenses; hence is derived the
Lagaritan wine, sweet and delicate, and much recommended by the
physicians, as is likewise the Thurian wine, which is reckoned among the
best. Then comes the city of Heraclea,[2201] a little way from the sea,
and two navigable rivers, the Agri[2202] and the Sinno,[2203] on which
was the city Siris, founded by a Trojan colony, but in course of time,
when Heraclea was peopled with the citizens of Siris by the Tarentini,
it became the harbour of Heraclea. Its distance from Heraclea was 24
stadia, and from Thurii about 330. [2204] They point out the statue of
the Trojan Minerva, which is erected there, as a proof of its
colonization by the Trojans. They also relate as a miracle how the
statue closed its eyes when the suppliants, who had fled for sanctuary
to her shrine, were dragged away by the Ionians after they had taken the
city;[2205] they say that these Ionians came to settle here, when they
fled from the yoke of the Lydians, and took the town of the
Trojans[2206] by force, calling its name Polieum. They show, too, at the
present time [CAS. 264] the statue that closes its eyes. It must,
however, require a good courage, not to assert that it appeared to have
closed its eyes, as that at Troy turned away its eyes from beholding the
violence offered to Cassandra, but to show it in the act of winking:—but
it is much more daring to make so many statues of the Minerva rescued
from Ilium, as those who describe them affirm, for there is a Minerva
said to be Trojan in the sense of having been rescued from that city,
not only at Siris, but at Rome, at Lavinium, and at Luceria. The scene,
too, of the daring of the Trojan female captives is assigned to many
different places and appears incredible, although it is by no means
impossible. There are some who say that Siris, and also that Sybaris on
the Trionto,[2207] were founded by the Rhodians. Antiochus says that the
site of Siris having become the subject of a contention between the
Tarentini and the Thurii, on that occasion commanded by Cleandridas the
general who had been banished from Lacedæmon, the two people came to a
composition, and agreed to inhabit it in common, but that the
colony[2208] should be considered as Tarentine; however, at a subsequent
period both the name and the locality were changed, and it was called
Heraclea. [2209]
15. Next in order is Metapontium,[2210] at a distance of 140 stadia from
the sea-port of Heraclea. It is said to be a settlement of the Pylians
at the time of their return from Ilium under Nestor; their success in
agriculture was so great, that it is said they offered at Delphi a
golden harvest:[2211] they adduce, as a proof of this foundation, the
offerings of the dead sacrificed periodically to the Neleïdæ;[2212] but
it was destroyed by the Samnites. [2213] Antiochus says that certain
Achæans, who had been sent for by the Achæans of Sybaris, settled in
this place when it had been desolated; he adds that these were sent for
on account of the hatred of the Achæans to the Tarentini, who had
originally migrated from Laconia, in order to prevent their seizing upon
the place which lay adjacent to them. Of the two cities, viz.
Metapontium which was situated the nearer, [and Siris the
further,[2214]] from Tarentum, the new comers preferred to occupy
Metapontium. This choice was suggested by the Sybarites, because, if
they should make good their settlement there, they would also possess
Siris, but if they were to turn to Siris, Metapontium would be annexed
to the territory of the Tarentines which was conterminous. But after
being engaged in war with the Tarentini and the Œnotrians, who dwelt
beyond them, they came to an agreement, securing to them a portion of
land, which should constitute the boundary between Italy, as it then
existed, and Iapygia. This, too, is the locality which tradition assigns
to the adventures of Metapontus and the captive Melanippe, and her son
Bœotus. But Antiochus is of opinion that the city Metapontium was
originally called Metabum, and that its name was altered at a subsequent
period; and that Melanippe was not entertained here but at Dius, and
thinks that the heroum of Metabus as well as the testimony of the poet
Asius, who says that
“The beautiful Melanippe, in the halls of Dius, bare Bœotus,”
afford sufficient proof that Melanippe was led to Dius and not to
Metabum. Ephorus says that Daulius, the tyrant of Crissa[2215] near
Delphi, was the founder of Metapontium. There is, however, another
tradition, that Leucippus was sent by the Achæans to help to found the
colony, and having asked permission of the Tarentini to have the place
for a day and a night, would not give it up, replying by day to those
who [CAS. 265] asked it of him, that he had asked and obtained it till
the following night, and when asked by night, he said that he held it
till the coming day.
Next adjoining is Tarentum and Iapygia, which we will describe when we
shall have first gone through the islands which lie off Italy, according
to our original purpose; for we have always given the adjacent islands
with every nation we have hitherto described, and since we have gone
through Œnotria, which only, the people of ancient times named Italy, we
feel justified in keeping to the same arrangement, and shall pass on to
Sicily and the surrounding islands.
CHAPTER II.
1. Sicily is triangular in form, and on this account was at first called
Trinacria, but afterwards the name was softened and it was changed into
Thrinacia. [2216] Three low headlands bound the figure: Pelorias is the
name of that towards Cænys and the Columna Rheginorum which forms the
strait; Pachynus[2217] is that which stretches towards the east, and is
washed by the Sea of Sicily, looking towards the Peloponnesus and in the
direction of the passage to Crete; the third is Lilybæum,[2218] and is
next to Africa, looking towards that region and the setting of the sun
in winter. [2219] Of the sides which these three headlands bound, two are
somewhat concave, while the third is slightly convex, it runs from
Lilybæum to Pelorias, and is the longest, being, as Posidonius has said,
1700 stadia adding further twenty. Of the others, that extending to
Pachynus from Lilybæum is the longer, while the shortest faces the
Strait and Italy, extending from Pelorias to Pachynus, being about 1120
or 1130 stadia. Posidonius shows that the circumference is 4400 stadia,
but in the Chorography the distances are declared to exceed the above
numbers, being severally reckoned in miles. Thus from Cape Pelorias to
Mylæ,[2220] 25 miles; from Mylæ to Tyndaris,[2221] 25; thence to
Agathyrnum,[2222] 30; from Agathyrnum to Alæsa,[2223] 30; from Alæsa to
Cephalœdium,[2224] 30; these are but insignificant places; from
Cephalœdium to the river Himera,[2225] which runs through the midst of
Sicily, 18; from thence to Panormus,[2226] 35; [thence] to the
Emporium[2227] of the Ægestani, 32; leaving to Lilybæum[2228] a distance
of 38; thence having doubled the Cape and coasting the adjacent side to
Heracleum,[2229] 75; and to the Emporium[2230] of the Agrigentini, 20;
and to[2231] [CAS. 266] Camarina,[2232] another 20; then to Pachynus,
50; thence again along the third side to Syracuse, 36;[2233] from
Syracuse to Catana, 60; then to Tauromenium,[2234] 33; thence to
Messana, 30. [2235] Thus on foot[2236] from Pachynus to Pelorias we have
168 [miles], and from Messana[2237] to [Cape] Lilybæum, on the Via
Valeria,[2238] we have 235[2239] [miles]. Some have estimated the
circuit in a more simple way, as Ephorus, who says that the compass of
the island by sea takes five days and nights. Posidonius attempts to
determine the situation of the island by climata,[2240] and places
Pelorias to the north, Lilybæum to the south, and Pachynus to the east.
We however consider that of necessity all climata are set out in the
manner of a parallelogram, but that districts portrayed as triangles,
and especially such triangles as are scalene,[2241] and whereof no one
side lies parallel to a side of the parallelogram, cannot in any way be
assimilated to climata on account of their obliquity. However, we must
allow, that in treating of Sicily, Pelorias, which lies to the south of
Italy, may well be called the most northern of the three angles, so that
we say that the line which joins it[2242] to Pachynus faces the east but
looks towards the north. [2243] Now this line [of coast] will make the
side next the Strait [of Messina], and it must have a slight inclination
towards the winter sunrise;[2244] for thus the shore slightly changes
its direction as you travel from Catana towards Syracuse and Pachynus.
Now the transit from Pachynus to the mouth of the Alpheus[2245] is 4000
stadia. But when Artemidorus says that from Pachynus to Tænarum[2246] it
is 4600, and from the Alpheus to the Pamisus is 1130 stadia,[2247] he
appears to me to lie open to the objection of having given distances
which do not accord with the 4000 stadia from Pachynus to the Alpheus.
The line run from Pachynus to Lilybæum (which is much to the west of
Pelorias) is considerably diverged from the south towards the west,
having at the same time an aspect looking towards the east and towards
the south. [2248] On one side it is washed by the sea of Sicily, and on
the other by the Libyan Sea, extending from Carthage to the Syrtes. The
shortest run is 1500 stadia from Lilybæum to the coast of Africa about
Carthage; and, according to report, a certain very sharp-sighted
person,[2249] placed on a watch-tower, announced to the Carthaginians
besieged in Lilybæum the number of the ships which were leaving
Carthage. And from Lilybæum to Pelorias the side must necessarily
incline towards the east, and look in a direction towards the west and
north, having Italy to the north, and the Tyrrhenian Sea with the
islands of Æolus to the west. [2250]
2. The cities situated on the side which forms the Strait are, first
Messana, then Tauromenium,[2251] Catana, and Syracuse; between Catana
and Syracuse were the ruined cities Naxos[2252] and Megara,[2253]
situated where the rivers descending from Ætna fall into the sea, and
afford good accommodation for shipping. Here is also the promontory of
Xiphonia. They say that Ephorus founded these first cities of the Greeks
in Sicily in [CAS. 267] the tenth generation from the Trojan war. For
those who preceded him were so terrified by the piratical customs of the
Tyrrheni, and the ferocity of the savages of the neighbourhood, that
they did not even venture to resort thither for the purposes of
commerce. Theocles the Athenian, however, having been driven to Sicily
by storms, observed both the weakness of the inhabitants and the
excellence of the soil. On his return home, he was unable to persuade
the Athenians to make any attempt, but he collected a numerous band of
Chalcidians in Eubœa, with some Ionians and Dorians, whereof the most
part were Megarenses, and sailed. The Chalcidians founded Naxos, and the
Dorians Megara, which was at first called Hybla. These cities no longer
exist, but the name of Hybla survives on account of the Hyblæan honey.
3. The first of the cities which at present remain on the aforesaid side
is Messana, built at the head of the gulf of Pelorias, which is curved
very considerably towards the east, and forms a bay.
