The Little
Scordisci
lived beyond
this river close to the Triballi and Mysi.
this river close to the Triballi and Mysi.
Strabo
After leaving the above-mentioned mountainous district, is the city
Theodosia, situated on a plain; the soil is fertile, and there is a
harbour capable of containing a hundred vessels. This formerly was the
boundary of the territory of the Bosporians and of the Tauri. Then
follows a fertile country extending to Panticapæum,[2735] the capital of
the Bosporians, which is situated at the mouth of the Palus
Mæotis. [2736] Between Theodosia[2737] and Panticapæum there is a tract
of about 530 stadia in extent. The whole country is corn-producing;
there are villages in it, and a city called Nymphæum, with a good
harbour.
Panticapæum is a hill inhabited all round for a circuit of 20 stadia. To
the east it has a harbour, and docks capable of containing about thirty
vessels; there is also an acropolis. It was founded by the Milesians.
Both this place and the neighbouring settlements on each side of the
mouth of the Palus Mæotis were for a long period under the monarchical
dynasty of Leucon, and Satyrus, and Pairisades, till the latter
surrendered the sovereignty to Mithridates. They had the name of
tyrants, although most of them were moderate and just in their
government, from the time of Pairisades and Leucon. Pairisades was
accounted even a god. The last sovereign, whose name was also
Pairisades, being unable to resist the barbarians, by whom great and
unusual tributes were exacted, surrendered the kingdom into the hands of
Mithridates. After him it became subject to the Romans. The greater
portion of it is situated in Europe, but a part of it is also situated
in Asia.
5. The mouth of the [Palus] Mæotis is called the Kimmerian Bosporus. The
entrance, which at the broadest part is about 70 stadia across, where
there is a passage from the neighbourhood[2738] of Panticapæum to
Phanagoria, the nearest city in Asia. The [Palus] Mæotis closes in an
arm of the sea which is much narrower. This arm of the sea and the
Don[2739] separate Europe from Asia. Then the Don flows from the north
opposite into the lake, and into the Kimmerian Bosporus. It discharges
itself into the lake by two mouths,[2740] which are distant from each
other about 60 stadia. There is also a city of the same name as the
river; and next to Panticapæum it is the largest mart belonging to the
barbarians.
On sailing into the Kimmerian Bosporus,[2741] on the left hand is
Myrmecium,[2742] a small city, 20 stadia from Panticapæum, and 40 stadia
from Parthenium;[2743] it is a village where is the narrowest entrance
into the lake, about 20 stadia in breadth; opposite to it is a village
situated in Asia, called Achilleum. Thence to the Don, and to the island
at its mouths, is a voyage in a direct line of 2200 stadia. The distance
is somewhat greater if the voyage is performed along the coast of Asia,
but taking the left-hand side, (in which direction the isthmus of the
Chersonese is fallen in with,) the distance is more than tripled. This
latter course is along the desert shore of Europe, but the [CAS. 311]
Asiatic side is not without inhabitants. The whole circumference of the
lake is 9000 stadia.
The Great Chersonesus resembles Peloponnesus both in figure and size.
The kings of the Bosporus possess it, but the whole country has been
devastated by continual wars. They formerly possessed a small tract only
at the mouth of the [Palus] Mæotis near Panticapæum, extending as far as
Theodosia. The largest part of the territory, as far as the isthmus and
the Gulf Carcinites, was in possession of the Tauri, a Scythian nation.
The whole of this country, comprehending also a portion on the other
side of the isthmus as far as the Dnieper, was called Little Scythia. In
consequence of the number of people who passed from thence across the
Dniester and the Danube, and settled there, no small part of that
country also bore the name of Little Scythia. The Thracians surrendered
a part of it to superior force, and a part was abandoned on account of
the bad quality of the ground, a large portion of which is marshy.
6. Except the mountainous tract of the Chersonesus on the sea-coast,
extending as far as Theodosia, all the rest consist of plains, the soil
of which is rich, and remarkably fertile in corn. It yields thirty-fold,
when turned up by the most ordinary implements of husbandry. The tribute
paid to Mithridates by the inhabitants, including that from the
neighbourhood of Sindace in Asia, amounted to 180,000 medimni of corn,
and 200 talents of silver. The Greeks in former times imported from this
country corn, and the cured fish of Palus Mæotis. Leucon is said to have
sent to the Athenians 2,100,000 medimni of corn from Theodosia. [2744]
The name of Georgi, or husbandmen, was appropriately given to these
people, to distinguish them from the nations situated above them, who
are nomades, and live upon the flesh of horses and other animals, on
cheese of mares’ milk, milk, and sour milk. The latter, prepared in a
peculiar manner, is a delicacy. [2745] Hence the poet designates all the
nations in that quarter as Galactophagi, milk-eaters.
The nomades are more disposed to war than to robbery. The occasion of
their contests was to enforce the payment of tribute. They permit those
to have land who are willing to cultivate it. In return for the use of
the land, they are satisfied with receiving a settled and moderate
tribute, not such as will furnish superfluities, but the daily
necessaries of life. If this tribute is not paid, the nomades declare
war. Hence the poet calls these people both just, and miserable,
(Abii,)[2746] for if the tribute is regularly paid, they do not have
recourse to war. Payment is not made by those, who have confidence in
their ability to repel attacks with ease, and to prevent the incursion
of their enemies. This course was pursued, as Hypsicrates relates, by
Asander, who fortified on the isthmus of the Chersonesus, at the Palus
Mæotis, a space of 360 stadia, and erected towers at the distance of
every 10 stadia. [2747]
The Georgi (husbandmen) are considered to be more civilized and mild in
their manners than the other tribes in this quarter, but they are
addicted to gain. They navigate the sea, and do not abstain from piracy,
nor from similar acts of injustice and rapacity.
7. Besides the places in the Chersonesus already enumerated, there are
the fortresses Palacium, and Chabum, and Neapolis,[2748] which Scilurus
and his sons constructed, from which they sallied out against the
generals of Mithridates.
There was also a fortress called Eupatorium, built by Diophantus, one of
the generals of Mithridates. [2749]
[CAS. 312] There is a promontory, distant about 15 stadia from the wall
of Chersonesus, which forms a large bay, which bends towards the city.
Above this bay is a sea-lake, where there are salt pits. Here was the
harbour Ctenus. The generals of the king, in order to strengthen their
means of resistance in case of siege, stationed a garrison on the
above-mentioned promontory, which was further protected by a
fortification. The mouth of the Gulf was closed by an embankment which
extended to the city, and was easily traversed on foot. The garrison and
the city were thus united. The Scythians were afterwards easily
repulsed. They attacked that part of the wall built across the isthmus
which touches upon Ctenus, and filled the ditch with straw. The kind of
bridge thus formed by day, was burnt at night by the king’s generals,
who continued their resistance and defeated the enemy. At present the
whole country is subject to whomsoever the Romans may appoint as king of
the Bosporus.
8. It is a custom peculiar to all the Scythian and Sarmatian tribes, to
castrate their horses, in order to make them more tractable, for
although they are small, yet they are spirited, and difficult to manage.
Stags and wild boars are hunted in the marshes, and wild asses and
roes[2750] in the plains. It is a peculiarity of this country, that no
eagles are to be found in it. Among the quadrupeds there is an animal
called Colus, in size between a deer and a ram; it is white, and swifter
in speed than either of those animals. It draws up water into the head
through the nostrils; from this store it can supply itself for several
days, and live without inconvenience in places destitute of water.
Such is the nature of the whole of the country beyond the Danube, lying
between the Rhine and the Don, and extending as far as the Pontic Sea
and the Palus Mæotis.
CHAPTER V.
1. There remains to be described that part of Europe included between
the Danube and the sea which surrounds it, beginning from the inner
recess of the Adriatic, and extending to the Sacred mouth of the Danube.
This part contains Greece, Macedonia, Epirus, and the people who live
above them, extending to the Danube and to the two seas (the Adriatic
and the Euxine Sea) on each side. On the Adriatic are the Illyrians; on
the Euxine Sea, as far as the Propontis[2751] and Hellespont, are the
Thracians, and the Scythian or Keltic tribes intermixed with them. We
must begin from the Danube, and treat of the countries which follow next
in order to those already described, that is to say, the parts
contiguous to Italy, the Alps, the Germans, the Dacians, and the Getæ.
These may be divided into two parts. For the mountains of Illyria,
Pæonia, and Thrace, may be considered as forming, as it were, a single
line, parallel to the Danube, and extending from the Adriatic to the
Euxine. To the north of this line is the country included between the
Danube and the mountains. To the south is Greece and the barbarous tract
contiguous to these mountains.
Near the Euxine Sea is Mount Hæmus,[2752] the largest and the highest of
the mountains in that quarter, and divides Thrace nearly in the middle.
According to Polybius, both seas may be seen from this mountain; but he
is mistaken, for the distance to the Adriatic is considerable, and many
things obstruct the view.
Almost the whole of Ardia[2753] lies near the Adriatic, Pæonia is in the
middle, and all this country consists of elevated ground. On the side
towards Thrace, it is bounded by Rhodope,[2754] a mountain next in
height to Hæmus; on the other side to the north is Illyria, and the
country of the Autariatæ,[2755] and Dardania. [2756]
I shall first describe Illyria, which approaches close to the Danube,
and to the Alps which lie between Italy and Germany, [CAS. 314] taking
their commencement from the lake in the territory of the Vindelici,
Rhæti, and Helvetii. [2757]
2. The Daci depopulated a part of this country in their wars with the
Boii and Taurisci, Keltic tribes whose chief was Critasirus. The Daci
claimed the country, although it was separated from them by the river
Parisus,[2758] which flows from the mountains to the Danube, near the
Galatæ Scordisci, a people who lived intermixed with the Illyrian and
the Thracian tribes. The Illyrians were destroyed by the Daci, while the
Scordisci were frequently their allies.
The rest of the country as far as Segestica,[2759] and the Danube,
towards the north and east, is occupied by Pannonii, but they extend
farther in an opposite direction. The city Segestica, belonging to the
Pannonii, is situated at the confluence of several rivers, all of which
are navigable. It is in a convenient situation for carrying on war
against the Daci, for it lies at the foot of the Alps, which extend to
the Iapodes,[2760] a mixed Keltic and Illyrian tribe. Thence also flow
the rivers by which is conveyed to Segestica a great quantity of
merchandise, and among the rest, commodities from Italy. The distance
from Aquileia to Nauportus,[2761] a settlement of the Taurisci, across
the mountain Ocra,[2762] is 350, or, according to some writers, 500
stadia. Merchandise is transported to Nauportus in waggons. The Ocra is
the lowest part of the Alps, which extend from Rhætica to the Iapodes,
where the mountains rise again, and are called Albii. From
Tergeste,[2763] a village of the Carni,[2764] there is a pass across and
through the Ocra to a marsh called Lugeum. [2765] A river, the Corcoras,
flows near Nauportus, and conveys the merchandise from that place. It
discharges itself into the Save, and this latter river into the
Drave; the Drave again into the Noarus at Segestica. Here the Noarus,
having received the Colapis[2766] as it descends in its full stream from
the mountain Albius through the Iapodes, enters the Danube among the
Scordisci. The navigation on the rivers is in general towards the north.
The journey from Tergeste to the Danube is about 1200 stadia. Near
Segestica is Siscia, a strong-hold, and Sirmium, both situated on the
road to Italy.
3. The Breuci, Andizetii, Ditiones, Peirustæ, Mazæi, Daisitiatæ, whose
chief was Baton, and other small obscure communities, which extend to
Dalmatia, and almost to the Ardiæi to the south, are Pannonians. The
whole mountainous tract from the recess of the Adriatic bay to the
Rhizonic gulf,[2767] and to the territory of the Ardiæi, intervening
between the sea and Pannonia, forms the coast of Illyria.
Here perhaps we ought to begin an uninterrupted account of these places,
after a short repetition.
In describing Italy we said, that the Istri were the first nation on the
Illyrian coast, contiguous to Italy and to the Carni, and that the
present government had advanced the limits of Italy to Pola,[2768] a
city of Istria. These limits are distant about 800 stadia from the
recess of the bay. It is the same distance from the promontory in front
of Pola to Ancon,[2769] keeping Henetica[2770] on the right hand. The
whole voyage along the coast of Istria is 1300 stadia.
4. Next is the voyage along the coast of the Iapodes, 1000 stadia in
extent. The Iapodes are situated on Mount Albius, which is the
termination of the Alps, and is of very great height. They reach in one
direction to the Pannonii and the Danube, and in another to the
Adriatic. They are a warlike people, but were completely subdued by
Augustus. Their cities are Metulum, Arupinum, Monetium, Vendum. [2771]
The country is poor, and the inhabitants live chiefly upon spelt and
millet. [2772] Their armour is after the Keltic fashion. Their bodies are
punctured, like those of the other Illyrian and Thracian people.
[CAS. 315] After the coast of the Iapodes follows that of Liburnia,
exceeding the former by 500 stadia. On this coast is Scardon,[2773] a
Liburnian city, and a river,[2774] which is navigable for vessels of
burden as far as the Dalmatæ.
5. Islands are scattered along the whole of the above-mentioned coast;
among them are the Apsyrtides, where Medea is said to have killed her
brother Apsyrtus, who was pursuing her.
Near the Iapodes is Cyrictica,[2775] then the Liburnian islands, about
forty in number; other islands follow, of which the best known are Issa,
Tragurium, founded by Isseans; Pharos, formerly Paros, founded by
Parians, the birth-place of Demetrius, the Pharian; then the coast of
the Dalmatæ and their naval arsenal, Salon. [2776] This nation was for a
long time at war with the Romans. They had fifty considerable
settlements, some of which were in the rank of cities, as Salon,
Priomon, Ninias, and the old and new Sinotium. Augustus burnt them down.
There is also Andetrium, a strong fortress, and Dalmatium, a large city,
of the same name as the nation. Scipio Nasica greatly reduced its size,
and converted the plain into a pasture for sheep, on account of the
disposition of the people to rob and pillage.
It is a custom peculiar to the Dalmatæ to make a partition of their
lands every eighth year. They do not use money, which is a peculiarity
also when compared with the habits of the other inhabitants of this
coast; but this is common among many other tribes of barbarians.
The mountain Adrion divides Dalmatia into two parts, one of which is on
the sea, the other forms the opposite side of the mountain. Then follow
the river Naron, and the people in the neighbourhood, the Daorizi,
Ardiæi, and Pleræi. [2777] Near the former lies the island Black
Corcyra,[2778] on which is a city founded by the Cnidians. Near the
Ardiæi is Pharos, formerly called Paros, for it was founded by Parians.
6. Later writers call the Ardiæi, Vardæi. [2779] The Romans drove them
into the interior from the sea-coast, which was infested by their
piracies, and compelled them to cultivate the ground; but as the country
was rugged and barren, and not adapted to husbandry, the nation was
entirely ruined and nearly extinguished. The same happened to other
neighbouring nations. People formerly very powerful are extinct, or were
reduced to the lowest condition, as the Boii and Scordisci among the
Galatæ; the Autariatæ, Ardiæi, and Dardanii, among the Illyrians; and
the Triballi among the Thracians. They first declined in consequence of
disputes amongst themselves, but were finally prostrated by wars with
the Macedonians and Romans.
7. After the termination of the coast of the Ardiæi and Pleræi is the
bay of the Rhizæi, a city Rhizon,[2780] other small towns, and the river
Drilon,[2781] which may be navigated up its stream towards the east as
far as Dardanica. This country is situated close to the Macedonian and
Pæonian nations, towards the south, as also the Autariatæ and the
Dasaretii are in parts contiguous to one another [and to the
Autariatæ]. [2782] To the Dardaniatæ belong the Galabrii,[2783] in whose
territory is an ancient city; and the Thunatæ, who approach on the east
close to the Mædi,[2784] a Thracian tribe.
The Dardanii are entirely a savage people, so much so that they dig
caves beneath dung heaps, in which they dwell; yet they are fond of
music, and are much occupied in playing upon pipes and on stringed
instruments. They inhabit the inland parts of the country, and we shall
mention them again in another place.
8. After the bay of Rhizon[2785] is Lissus,[2786] a city,
Acrolissus,[2787] and Epidamnus, the present Dyrrhachium,[2788] founded
by Corcyræans, and bearing the name of the peninsula on which it [CAS.
316] is situated. Then follow the rivers Apsus[2789] and the Aous,[2790]
on the banks of which is situated Apollonia,[2791] a city governed by
excellent laws. It was founded by Corinthians and Corcyræans, and is
distant from the river 10, and from the sea 60, stadia. Hecatæus calls
the Aous, Aïas, and says that from the same place, or rather from the
same sources about Lacmus,[2792] the Inachus flows southward, to
Argos,[2793] and the Aïas westward, into the Adriatic.
In the territory of the Apolloniatæ there is what is called a Nymphæum.
It is a rock which emits fire. Below it are springs flowing with hot
water and asphaltus. The earth containing the asphaltus is probably in a
state of combustion. The asphaltus is dug out of a neighbouring hill;
the parts excavated are replaced by fresh earth, which after a time are
converted into asphaltus. This account is given by Posidonius, who says
also, that the ampelitis, an asphaltic earth found in the Pierian
Seleucia,[2794] is a remedy for the lice which infest the vine. If the
vine is smeared with this earth mixed with oil, the insects are killed
before they ascend from the root to the branches. This earth, but it
required for use a larger quantity of oil, he says was found at Rhodes
also, while he held there the office of Prytanes.
Next to Apollonia is Bylliace (Bullis) and Oricum,[2795] with its naval
arsenal, Panormus, and the Ceraunian mountains, which form the
commencement of the entrance of the Ionian and Adriatic Gulfs.
9. The mouth is common to both; but this difference is to be observed,
that the name Ionian[2796] is applied to the first part of the gulf
only, and Adriatic to the interior sea up to the farthest end, but the
name Adriatic is now applied to the whole sea. According to Theopompus,
the name Ionian was derived from a chief (Ionius) of that country, a
native of Issa; and the name Adriatic from a river, Adrias. [2797]
From the Liburni to the Ceraunian mountains is a distance of a little
more than 2000 stadia. But Theopompus says, that it is six days’ sail
from the farthest recess of the bay, but a journey of thirty days by
land along the length of Illyria. This appears to me an exaggeration,
but he makes many incredible statements. Among other instances, he
pretends that there is a subterraneous passage between the Adriatic and
the Ægean Seas, grounding his opinion on the discovery of Chian and
Thasian pottery in the river Naron. [2798] The two seas, he says, may be
seen from some pretended mountain. He describes the Liburnian islands as
occupying a position so extensive as to form a circle of 500 stadia.
According to him, the Danube discharges itself by one of its mouths into
the Adriatic. [2799] Similar mistakes are to be found in Eratosthenes,
which Polybius, when speaking of him and other writers, describes as
having their origin in vulgar error. [2800]
10. On the coast of Illyria, along its whole extent, and in the
neighbouring islands, there are numerous excellent harbours, contrary to
what occurs on the opposite Italian coast, where there are none. As in
Italy, however, the climate is warm, and the soil productive of fruits;
olives also and vines grow readily, except in some few excessively
rugged places. Although Illyria possesses these advantages, it was
formerly neglected, through ignorance, perhaps, of its fertility; but it
was principally avoided on account of the savage manners of the
inhabitants, and their piratical habits.
The region situated above the sea-coast is mountainous, cold, and at
times covered with snow. The northern part is still colder, so that
vines are rarely to be met with either in the hills or in the plains
lower down. These mountain-plains are in the possession of the
Pannonians, and extend towards the south as far as the Dalmatians and
Ardiæi. They terminate towards the north at the Ister, and approach
towards [CAS. 317] the east close to the Scordisci, who live near the
Macedonian and Thracian mountains.
11. The Autariatæ were the most populous and the bravest tribe of the
Illyrians. Formerly, there were continual disputes between them and the
Ardiæi respecting the salt which was spontaneously formed on the
confines of their respective territories, in the spring season, from
water which flows through a valley. The salt concreted five days after
the water was drawn and deposited in reservoirs. The right of collecting
salt was, by agreement, to be exercised alternately by each party, but
the compact was broken and war was the consequence. After the Autariatæ
had subdued the Triballi, a people whose territory extended a journey of
fifteen days, from the Agrianæ to the Danube, they became masters of the
Thracians and Illyrians. The Autariatæ were first conquered by the
Scordisci, and afterwards by the Romans, who overpowered the Scordisci,
for a long time a powerful nation.
12. This people inhabited the country on the banks of the Danube, and
were divided into two tribes, the Great and the Little Scordisci. [2801]
The former occupied the space between two rivers, which empty themselves
into the Danube, the Noarus,[2802] which runs beside Segestica, and the
Margus, or, as some call it, Bargus.
The Little Scordisci lived beyond
this river close to the Triballi and Mysi. [2803] The Scordisci possessed
some of the islands also. They increased so much in strength and numbers
as to advance even to the Illyrian, Pæonian, and Thracian confines. Most
of the islands on the Danube fell into their hands, and they possessed
the cities Heorta and Capedunum. [2804]
Next to the territory of the Scordisci, lying along the banks of the
Danube, is the country of the Triballi and Mysi, whom we have before
mentioned; we have also spoken of the marshes[2805] of the Lesser
Scythia on this side the Danube. This nation, and the Crobyzi, and the
nation called Troglodytæ, live above the districts in which are situated
Callatis, Tomis, and Ister. [2806] Next are the people about the Mount
Hæmus, and those who live at its foot, extending as far as the Pontus,
Coralli, and Bessi, and some tribes of Mædi and of Dantheletæ. All these
nations are very much addicted to robbery. The Bessi possess far the
greatest part of Mount Hæmus, and are called Robbers from their mode of
life as freebooters. Some of them live in huts and lead a life of
hardship. They extend close to Rhodope, the Pæones, and to the Illyrian
nations; to the Autariatæ also, and the Dardanians. Between these and
the Ardiæi are the Dasaretii, Hybrianes, and other obscure nations,
whose numbers the Scordisci were continually reducing, until they had
made the country a desert, full of impassable forests, which extended
several days’ journey.
CHAPTER VI.
1. Of the country situated between the Danube and the mountains on each
side of Pæonia, there remains to be described the Pontic coast, which
reaches from the Sacred mouth of the Danube to the mountainous district
about Hæmus, and to the mouth of the Pontus at Byzantium. As in
describing the Illyrian coast we had proceeded as far as the Ceraunian
mountains, which, although they stretch beyond the mountainous district
of Illyria, yet constitute a sort of proper boundary, we determined by
means of these mountains the limits of the nations in the inland parts,
considering, that such separating lines would be better marks both for
our present and future use; so here also the coast, although it may fall
beyond the mountainous line, will still end at a proper kind of limit,
the mouth of the Pontus, which will be useful both for our present and
our future descriptions.
If we set out from the Sacred mouth of the Danube, having on the right
hand the continuous line of coast, we find at the [CAS. 319] distance of
500 stadia, Ister,[2807] a small town founded by Milesians; then
Tomis,[2808] another small town, at the distance of 250 stadia; then
Callatis,[2809] a city, a colony of the Heracleotæ, at 280 stadia; then,
at 1300 stadia, Apollonia,[2810] a colony of Milesians, having the
greater part of the buildings upon a small island, where is a temple of
Apollo, whence Marcus Lucullus took the Colossus of Apollo, the work of
Calamides, and dedicated it as a sacred offering in the Capitol. In the
intermediate distance between Callatis and Apollonia, is Bizone, a great
part of which was swallowed up by an earthquake; Cruni;[2811]
Odessus,[2812] a colony of Milesians; and Naulochus, a small town of the
Mesembriani. Next follows the mountain Hæmus,[2813] extending to the sea
in this quarter; then Mesembria,[2814] a colony of the Megarenses,
formerly called Menabria, or city of Mena, Menas being the name of the
founder, and bria,[2815] signifying in the Thracian tongue, city. Thus
the city of Selys is called Selybria, and Ænus once had the name of
Poltyobria. Then follows Anchiale,[2816] a small town of the
Apolloniatæ, and Apollonia itself.
On this coast is the promontory Tirizis, a place naturally strong, which
Lysimachus formerly used as a treasury. Again, from Apollonia to the
Cyaneæ are about 1500 stadia. In this interval are Thynias, a tract
belonging to the Apolloniatæ, Phinopolis, and Andriace,[2817] which are
contiguous to Salmydessus. This coast is without inhabitants and rocky,
without harbours, stretching far towards the north, and extending as far
as the Cyaneæ, about 700 stadia. Those who are wrecked on this coast are
plundered by the Asti, a Thracian tribe who live above it.
The Cyaneæ[2818] are two small islands at the mouth of the Pontus, one
lying near Europe, the other near Asia, and are separated by a channel
of about 20 stadia. This is the measure of the distance between the
temple of the Byzantines and the temple of the Chalcedonians, where is
the narrowest part of the mouth of the Euxine Sea. For proceeding
onwards 10 stadia there is a promontory, which reduces the strait to 5
stadia; the strait afterwards opens to a greater width, and begins to
form the Propontis.
2. From the promontory, then, that reduces the strait to 5 stadia, to
the Port under the Fig-tree, as it is called, are 35 stadia; thence to
the Horn of the Byzantines, 5 stadia. This Horn, close to the walls of
Byzantium, is a bay, extending westwards 60 stadia, and resembling a
stag’s horn, for it is divided into a great many bays, like so many
branches. The Pelamides[2819] resort to these bays, and are easily
taken, on account of their great number, and the force of the current,
which drives them together in a body; and also on account of the
narrowness of the bays, which is such that they are caught even by the
hand. These fish are bred in the marshes of the Mæotis. When they have
attained a little size and strength, they rush through the mouth in
shoals, and are carried along the Asiatic coast as far as Trapezus and
Pharnacia. It is here that the fishery begins, but it is not carried on
to any considerable extent, because the fish are not of a proper size at
this place. When they get as far as Sinope, they are in better season
for the fishery, and for the purpose of salting. But when they have
reached and passed the Cyaneæ, a white rock projects from the
Chalcedonian shore, which alarms the fish, so that they immediately turn
away to the opposite coast. There they are caught by the stream, and the
nature of the places being such as to divert the current of the sea in
that part towards Byzantium, and the Horn near it, the fish are impelled
thither in a body, and afford to the Byzantines, and to the Roman
people, a large revenue. The Chalcedonians, however, although situated
near, and on the opposite side, have no share of this supply, because
the Pelamides do not approach their harbours.
After the foundation of Chalcedon, Apollo is said to have [CAS. 320]
enjoined the founders of Byzantium, in answer to their inquiries, to
build their city opposite to the Blind, applying this name to the
Chalcedonians, who, although they were the first persons to arrive in
these parts, had omitted to take possession of the opposite side, which
afforded such great resources of wealth, and chose the barren coast.
We have continued our description to Byzantium, because this celebrated
city,[2820] by its proximity to the mouth of the Euxine Sea, forms a
better-known and more remarkable termination of an account of the coast
from the Danube than any other.
Above Byzantium is the nation of the Asti, in whose territory is the
city Calybe, which Philip the son of Amyntas made a settlement for
criminals.
CHAPTER VII.
1. These are the nations, bounded by the Danube and by the Illyrian and
Thracian mountains, which are worthy of record. They occupy the whole
coast of the Adriatic Sea, beginning from the recess of the gulf, and
the left side, as it is called, of the Euxine Sea, from the river Danube
to Byzantium.
The southern parts of the above-mentioned mountainous tract, and the
countries which follow, lying below it, remain to be described. Among
these are Greece, and the contiguous barbarous country extending to the
mountains.
Hecatæus of Miletus says of the Peloponnesus, that, before the time of
the Greeks, it was inhabited by barbarians. Perhaps even the whole of
Greece was, anciently, a settlement of barbarians, if we judge from
former accounts. For Pelops brought colonists from Phrygia into the
Peloponnesus, which took his name; Danaus[2821] brought colonists from
Egypt; Dryopes, Caucones, Pelasgi, Leleges, and other barbarous nations,
partitioned among themselves the country on this side of the
isthmus. [2822] The case was the same on the other side of the isthmus;
for Thracians, under their leader Eumolpus,[2823] took possession of
Attica; Tereus of Daulis in Phocæa; the Phœnicians, with their leader
Cadmus,[2824] occupied the Cadmeian district; Aones, and Temmices, and
Hyantes, Bœotia. Pindar says, “there was a time when the Bœotian people
were called Syes. ”[2825] Some names show their barbarous origin, as
Cecrops, Codrus, Œclus, Cothus, Drymas, and Crinacus. [2826] Thracians,
Illyrians, and Epirotæ are settled even at present on the sides of
Greece. Formerly the territory they possessed was more extensive,
although even now the barbarians possess a large part of the country,
which, without dispute, is Greece. Macedonia is occupied by Thracians,
as well as some parts of Thessaly; the country above Acarnania and
Ætolia, by Thesproti, Cassopæi, Amphilochi, Molotti, and Athamanes,
Epirotic tribes.
2. We have already spoken of the Pelasgi. [2827] Some writers conjecture
that the Leleges and Carians are the same people; others, that they were
only joint settlers, and comrades in war, because there are said to be
some settlements called Settlements of the Leleges in the Milesian
territory, and in many parts of Caria there are burial-places of the
Leleges, and deserted fortresses, called Lelegia.
The whole country called Ionia was formerly inhabited by Carians and
Leleges; these were expelled by the Ionians, who themselves took
possession of the country. In still [CAS. 322] earlier times, the
captors of Troy[2828] had driven out the Leleges from the places about
Ida near the rivers Pedasus and Satnioeis.
The fact of the association of these people with the Carians may be
regarded as a proof of their being barbarians, and Aristotle, in his
Politics, shows that they were a wandering nation, sometimes in company
with the Carians, sometimes alone, and that from ancient times; for, in
speaking of the polity of the Acarnanians, he says that the Curetes
occupied a part of the country, and the Leleges (and after them the
Teleboæ) the western side. On the subject of the Ætolian polity, he
calls the present Locri, Leleges, and observes that they occupy Bœotia.
He repeats the same remark on the subject of the polity of the Opuntians
and Megareans. In speaking of the polity of the Leucadians, he mentions
an aboriginal by name, Leleges, and a grandson by his daughter of the
name of Teleboas, and besides two and twenty of his sons of the name of
Teleboas, some of whom inhabited Lucas. But we should chiefly rely upon
Hesiod, who thus speaks of them:
“For Locrus was the leader of the nation of the Leleges, whom
Jupiter, the son of Saturn, in his infinite wisdom, once gave as
subjects to Deucalion, a people gathered from among the nations
of the earth. ”
For it seems to me to be obscurely intimated by the etymology of the
name, Leleges, that they were a mixed people anciently collected
together, which had become extinct. And this may be said of the
Caucones, who exist no where at present, yet were formerly settled in
several places.
3. Although Greece was formerly composed of small nations, many in
number, and obscure; nevertheless their valour, and their separate
government by kings, prevented any difficulty in defining their
boundaries. As the greatest part of the country, however, is at present
uninhabited, and the settlements, especially the cities, have been
destroyed, it would be of no service, even if it were possible, to
ascertain the names of cities and regions occupied by obscure and
extinct people. This destruction, which began a long time since, still
continues in many parts in consequence of rebellion. It has been checked
by the Romans, who accepted the supreme authority from the inhabitants
and lodged soldiers in their houses.
Polybius says that Paulus [Emilius], after the defeat of the
Macedonians[2829] and their king Perseus, destroyed 70 cities of the
Epirotæ (most of which belonged to the Molotti) and reduced to slavery
150,000 of the inhabitants. Still, however, I shall endeavour, as far as
it is compatible with the design of this work, to describe, as far as I
am able, these places in detail, beginning from the sea-coast near the
Ionian Gulf, where the navigation out of the Adriatic terminates.
4. The first parts of this coast are those about Epidamnus and
Apollonia. From Apollonia to Macedonia is the Egnatian Way; its
direction is towards the east, and the distance is measured by pillars
at every mile, as far as Cypselus[2830] and the river Hebrus. [2831] The
whole distance is 535 miles. But reckoning, as the generality of persons
reckon, a mile at eight stadia, there may be 4280 stadia. And according
to Polybius, who adds two plethra, that is, the third of a stadium, to
every eight stadia, we must add 178 stadia more, a third part of the
number of miles. [2832] A traveller from Apollonia,[2833] and a traveller
from Epidamnus,[2834] on the same road, meet midway between the two
cities. The whole is called the Egnatian Way. The first part of it is
called the road to Candavia, which is an Illyrian mountain. It passes
through Lychnidus,[2835] a city, and Pylon, a place which separates
Illyria from Macedonia. Thence its direction is beside Barnus through
Heracleia, the Lyncestæ, and the Eordi, to Edessa[2836] and Pella,[2837]
as far as Thessalonica. [2838] Polybius says, that this is a distance of
267 miles. In travelling this road from the neighbourhood of Epidamnus
and Apollonia, on the right hand are the Epirotic nations situated on
the coast of the Sicilian Sea, and extending as far as the Gulf of
Ambracia;[2839] on the left are the Illyrian mountains, which we have
before described, and the nations that live near them, extending as far
as Macedonia and the Pæones.
[CAS. 323] From the Gulf of Ambracia the places next in order, inclining
to the east, and extending opposite to Peloponnesus, belong to Greece;
they terminate at the Ægean Sea, leaving the whole of Peloponnesus on
the right hand.
The country, from the commencement of the Macedonian and Pæonian
mountains, as far as the river Strymon,[2840] is inhabited by
Macedonians, and Pæones, and some of the Thracian mountain tribes. But
all the country on the other side the Strymon, as far as the mouth of
the Euxine Sea, and Mount Hæmus,[2841] belong to the Thracians, except
the coast, which is occupied by Greeks, some of whom are settled on the
Propontis,[2842] others on the Hellespont and on the Gulf Melas,[2843]
and others on the Ægean Sea.
The Ægean Sea waters two sides of Greece; first, the eastern side,
extending from the promontory Sunium[2844] to the north as far as the
Thermæan Gulf, and Thessalonica, a Macedonian city, which has, at
present, the largest population in these parts. Then the southern side,
which is a part of Macedonia, extending from Thessalonica to the
Strymon. Some writers assign the coast from the Strymon as far as
Nestus[2845] to Macedonia. For Philip showed the greatest solicitude to
obtain, and at length appropriated it to himself. He raised a very large
revenue from the mines, and from other sources which the richness of the
country afforded.
From Sunium to the Peloponnesus are the Myrtoan, the Cretan, and the
Libyan Seas, together with the Gulfs, as far as the Sicilian Sea, which
consist of the Gulfs of Ambracia, of Corinth, and of Crissa.
5. Theopompus says, that there are fourteen Epirotic nations. Of these,
the most celebrated are the Chaones and Molotti, because the whole of
Epirus was at one time subject, first to Chaones, afterwards to Molotti.
Their power was greatly strengthened by the family of their kings being
descended from the Æacidæ, and because the ancient and famous oracle of
Dodona[2846] was in their country. Chaones, Thesproti, and next after
these Cassopæi, (who are Thesproti,) occupy the coast, a fertile tract
reaching from the Ceraunian mountains to the Ambracian Gulf.
The voyage commencing from the Chaones eastward towards the Gulfs of
Ambracia and Corinth, and having the Ausonian Sea on the right, and
Epirus on the left, comprises 1300 stadia to the mouth of the Ambracian
Gulf. In this interval is Panormus,[2847] a large port in the middle of
the Ceraunian mountains. Next to this is Onchesmus,[2848] another
harbour, opposite to which are the western extremities of Corcyra,[2849]
and then again another port, Cassiope,[2850] (Cassope? ) whence to
Brundusium[2851] are 1700 stadia. It is the same distance to Tarentum
from another promontory more to the south than Cassiope, which is called
Phalacrum. Next after Onchesmus are Posidium, and Buthrotum,[2852]
(which is situated upon the mouth of the lake Pelodes, in a spot of a
peninsula form, and has a Roman colony,) and the Sybota. The
Sybota[2853] are small islands at a little distance from Epirus, lying
near Leucimme,[2854] the eastern promontory of Corcyra. There are also
other small islands, not worthy of notice, which are met with along the
coast.
Next is the promontory Chimerium, and a harbour called Glycys-Limen, [or
Sweet Harbour,] where the river Acheron, which receives several other
rivers, empties itself and renders fresh the water of the gulf. The
Thyamus[2855] flows near it. Above this gulf is situated Cichyrus,
formerly Ephyra, a city of the Thesproti, and above the gulf at
Buthrotum, Phœnice. [2856] Near Cichyrus is Buchetium, a small city of
the Cassopæi, situated at a little distance from the sea; Elatria,
Pandosia, and Batiæ are in the inland parts. Their territory extends as
far as the gulf. Next after the harbour Glycys-Limen are two others,
Comarus,[2857] the nearest and smallest, forming an isthmus of 60
stadia, near the Ambracian Gulf and Nicopolis,[2858] founded by Augustus
Cæsar; the other, the more distant and larger, and better harbour, is
near the mouth of the gulf, and distant from Nicopolis about 12 stadia.
6. Then follows the entrance of the Ambracian Gulf, [CAS. 326] which is
a little more than four stadia in width. The circuit of the gulf is 400
stadia, and the whole has good harbours. On sailing into it, on the
right hand are the Acarnanes, who are Greeks; and here near the entrance
of the gulf is a temple of Apollo Actius, situated on an eminence; in
the plain below is a sacred grove, and a naval station. Here Augustus
Cæsar[2859] dedicated as offerings one-tenth of the vessels taken in
war, from vessels of one bank to vessels of ten banks of oars. The
vessels, and the buildings destined for their reception, were destroyed,
it is said, by fire.
On the left hand are Nicopolis,[2860] and the Cassopæi, a tribe of the
Epirotæ, extending as far as the recess of the gulf at Ambracia.
Ambracia[2861] is situated a little above the recess of the bay, and was
founded by Gorgus, (Torgus, Tolgus,) the son of Cypselus. The river
Arathus flows beside it, which may be navigated up the stream to the
city, a distance of a few stadia. It rises in Mount Tymphe, and the
Paroræa. This city was formerly in a very flourishing condition, and
hence the gulf received its name from the city. Pyrrhus, however,
embellished it more than any other person, and made it a royal
residence. In later times,[2862] the Macedonians and Romans harassed
this and other cities by continual wars, caused by the refractory
disposition of the inhabitants, so that Augustus, at length perceiving
that these cities were entirely deserted, collected their remaining
inhabitants into one city, which he called Nicopolis, situated upon the
gulf. He called it after the victory which he obtained in front of the
gulf, over Antony, and Cleopatra, the queen of Egypt, who was present in
the engagement.
Nicopolis is well peopled, and is improving every day. It has a large
territory, and is adorned with the spoils of war. In the suburbs is a
sacred enclosure; part of it is a grove, containing a gymnasium and a
stadium, intended for the celebration of quinquennial games; the other
part, on a rising ground overhanging the grove, is sacred to Apollo. The
Olympian game, called the Actia,[2863] is instituted there in honour of
Apollo Actius. It is under the superintendence of the Lacedæmonians. The
other surrounding settlements are dependent on Nicopolis. The Actian
games[2863] were formerly celebrated in honour of the god by the
neighbouring people; it was a contest in which the victor was crowned;
but Cæsar has conferred on it greater honours.
7. After Ambracia follows the Amphilochian Argos, founded by Alcmæon and
his sons. According to Ephorus, Alcmæon, after the expedition of the
Epigoni[2864] against Thebes, upon the solicitation of Diomed,
accompanied him in his invasion of Ætolia, and obtained joint possession
of this country and of Acarnania. When Agamemnon invited them to come to
the siege of Troy, Diomed went, but Alcmæon remained in Acarnania,
founded Argos, and gave it the name Amphilochian, after his brother
Amphilochus. On the same authority the river Inachus, which flows
through the country and empties itself into the bay, received its name
from the river in the Argive territory. Thucydides, however, says that
Amphilochus himself, upon his return from Troy, dissatisfied with the
state of things at Argos, passed over into Acarnania, and having
succeeded to the dynasty of his brother, founded the city which is
called after his name.
8. The Amphilochians are Epirotæ, as also are those nations who inhabit
a rugged country situated above and close to the Illyrian mountains, the
Molotti, Athamanes, Æthices, Tymphæi, Orestæ Paroræi, and Atintanes,
some of whom approach nearer to Macedonia, others to the Ionian Gulf. It
is said that Orestes possessed the territory Orestias at the time of his
flight, after the murder of his mother, and left the country [CAS. 327]
bearing his name, where also he had built a city called Orestic Argos.
With these people are intermixed Illyrian nations, some of whom are
situated on the southern part of the mountainous district, and others
above the Ionian Gulf. For above Epidamnus and Apollonia, as far as the
Ceraunian mountains, live the Bulliones, Taulantii, Parthini, and
Brygi. [2865]
Somewhere near are the silver mines of Damastium. Here the Perisadyes
had established their sway, and Enchelii, who are also called
Sesarethii. Then come the Lyncestæ, the territory Deuriopus,
Pelagonia-Tripolitis, the Eordi, Elimia, and Eratyra. Formerly each of
these nations was under its own prince. The chiefs of the Enchelii were
descendants of Cadmus and Harmonia, and scenes of the fables respecting
these persons are shown in the territory. This nation, therefore, was
not governed by native princes. The Lyncestæ were under Arrhabæus, who
was of the race of the Bacchiadæ. Irra was his daughter, and his
grand-daughter was Eurydice, the mother of Philip Amyntas.
The Molotti also were Epirotæ, and were subjects of Pyrrhus Neoptolemus,
the son of Achilles, and of his descendants, who were Thessalians. The
rest were governed by native princes. Some tribes were continually
endeavouring to obtain the mastery over the others, but all were finally
subdued by the Macedonians, except a few situated above the Ionian Gulf.
They gave the name of Upper Macedonia to the country about Lyncestis,
Pelagonia, Orestias, and Elimia. Later writers called it Macedonia the
Free, and some extend the name of Macedonia to all the country as far as
Corcyra, at the same time assigning as their reasons, the mode of
cutting their hair, their language, the use of the chlamys, and similar
things in which they resemble the Macedonians; some of them, however,
speak two languages. On the dissolution of the Macedonian empire, they
fell under the power of the Romans.
The Egnatian Way, from Epidamnus and Apollonia, passes through the
territory of these people. Near the road to Candavia are the lakes about
Lychnidus, which furnish large supplies of fish for salting, and rivers,
some of which empty themselves into the Ionian Gulf. Some flow towards
the south, as the Inachus, the Arathus, (Ratoüs,) the Achelous, and the
Evenus, formerly called Lycormas. The Ratoüs discharges its waters into
the Ambracian Gulf, the Inachus into the Achelous, the Achelous itself
into the sea, as also the Evenus; the former traverses Acarnania, the
latter Ætolia. The Erigon, after having received many streams which flow
from the Illyrian mountains, and through the territories of Lyncestæ,
Brygi, Deuriopes, and Pelagonians, empties itself into the Axius.
9. There were formerly cities among these nations. The district
Pelagonia-Tripolitis contained (as the name signifies) three cities, of
which Azorus was one. All the cities of the Deuriopes were situated on
the banks of the Erigon; among which were Bryanium, Alalcomenæ,[2866]
and Stymbara. [2867] Cydriæ belonged to the Brygi, and Æginium on the
confines of Æthicia, and Tricca, to the Tymphæi. Near Macedonia and
Thessalia, about the mountains Pœus and Pindus, are the Æthices, and the
sources of the Peneus, which are a subject of dispute between the
Tymphæi and the Thessalians, who are situated below Pindus.
On the banks of the river Ion is Oxynia, a city distant from Azorus in
the Tripolitis 120 stadia. Near Oxynia are Alalcomenæ, Æginium, Europus,
and the confluence of the Ion with the Peneus.
At that time then, as I said before, the whole of Epirus and Illyria
were well peopled, although the country is rugged and full of mountains,
such as Tomarus, and Polyanus, and many others. At present the greater
part is uninhabited, and the inhabited parts are left in the state of
villages, or in ruins. Even the oracle at Dodona has almost been
deserted, like the rest.
10. This oracle, according to Ephorus, was established by Pelasgi, who
are said to be the most ancient people that were sovereigns in Greece.
Thus the poet speaks,
“O great Pelasgic Dodonæan Jove;”[2868]
and Hesiod,
“He went to Dodona, the dwelling of the Pelasgi, and to the beech
tree. ”
[CAS. 328] I have spoken of the Pelasgi in the account of Tyrrhenia.
With respect to Dodona, Homer clearly intimates that the people who
lived about the temple were barbarians, from their mode of life,
describing them as persons who do not wash their feet, and who sleep on
the ground. Whether we should read Helli, with Pindar, or Selli, as it
is conjectured the word existed in Homer, the ambiguity of the writing
does not permit us to affirm confidently. Philochorus says, that the
country about Dodona was called, like Eubœa, Hellopia; for these are the
words of Hesiod,
“There is a country Hellopia, rich in corn-fields and pastures;
at its extremity is built Dodona. ”
It is supposed, says Apollodorus, that it had this name from the “hele,”
or marshes about the temple. He is of opinion that the poet did not call
the people about the temple Helli, but Selli, adding, that Homer
mentions a certain river (near) of the name of Selleis. He specifies the
name in this line,
“At a distance far from Ephyra, from the river Selleis. ”
[Demetrius of Skepsis contends that] Ephyra of Thesprotia is not here
meant, but Ephyra of Elis. For the river Selleis is in Elis, and there
is no river of this name either in Thesprotia or among the Molotti. The
fable of the oak and the doves, and other similar things, like the
stories connected with Delphi, although they are subjects more adapted
to engage the attention of a poet, yet are appropriate to the
description of the country with which we are now occupied.
Dodona was formerly subject to the Thesproti, as was the mountain
Tomarus, or Tmarus, (both names are in use,) below which the temple is
situated.
Theodosia, situated on a plain; the soil is fertile, and there is a
harbour capable of containing a hundred vessels. This formerly was the
boundary of the territory of the Bosporians and of the Tauri. Then
follows a fertile country extending to Panticapæum,[2735] the capital of
the Bosporians, which is situated at the mouth of the Palus
Mæotis. [2736] Between Theodosia[2737] and Panticapæum there is a tract
of about 530 stadia in extent. The whole country is corn-producing;
there are villages in it, and a city called Nymphæum, with a good
harbour.
Panticapæum is a hill inhabited all round for a circuit of 20 stadia. To
the east it has a harbour, and docks capable of containing about thirty
vessels; there is also an acropolis. It was founded by the Milesians.
Both this place and the neighbouring settlements on each side of the
mouth of the Palus Mæotis were for a long period under the monarchical
dynasty of Leucon, and Satyrus, and Pairisades, till the latter
surrendered the sovereignty to Mithridates. They had the name of
tyrants, although most of them were moderate and just in their
government, from the time of Pairisades and Leucon. Pairisades was
accounted even a god. The last sovereign, whose name was also
Pairisades, being unable to resist the barbarians, by whom great and
unusual tributes were exacted, surrendered the kingdom into the hands of
Mithridates. After him it became subject to the Romans. The greater
portion of it is situated in Europe, but a part of it is also situated
in Asia.
5. The mouth of the [Palus] Mæotis is called the Kimmerian Bosporus. The
entrance, which at the broadest part is about 70 stadia across, where
there is a passage from the neighbourhood[2738] of Panticapæum to
Phanagoria, the nearest city in Asia. The [Palus] Mæotis closes in an
arm of the sea which is much narrower. This arm of the sea and the
Don[2739] separate Europe from Asia. Then the Don flows from the north
opposite into the lake, and into the Kimmerian Bosporus. It discharges
itself into the lake by two mouths,[2740] which are distant from each
other about 60 stadia. There is also a city of the same name as the
river; and next to Panticapæum it is the largest mart belonging to the
barbarians.
On sailing into the Kimmerian Bosporus,[2741] on the left hand is
Myrmecium,[2742] a small city, 20 stadia from Panticapæum, and 40 stadia
from Parthenium;[2743] it is a village where is the narrowest entrance
into the lake, about 20 stadia in breadth; opposite to it is a village
situated in Asia, called Achilleum. Thence to the Don, and to the island
at its mouths, is a voyage in a direct line of 2200 stadia. The distance
is somewhat greater if the voyage is performed along the coast of Asia,
but taking the left-hand side, (in which direction the isthmus of the
Chersonese is fallen in with,) the distance is more than tripled. This
latter course is along the desert shore of Europe, but the [CAS. 311]
Asiatic side is not without inhabitants. The whole circumference of the
lake is 9000 stadia.
The Great Chersonesus resembles Peloponnesus both in figure and size.
The kings of the Bosporus possess it, but the whole country has been
devastated by continual wars. They formerly possessed a small tract only
at the mouth of the [Palus] Mæotis near Panticapæum, extending as far as
Theodosia. The largest part of the territory, as far as the isthmus and
the Gulf Carcinites, was in possession of the Tauri, a Scythian nation.
The whole of this country, comprehending also a portion on the other
side of the isthmus as far as the Dnieper, was called Little Scythia. In
consequence of the number of people who passed from thence across the
Dniester and the Danube, and settled there, no small part of that
country also bore the name of Little Scythia. The Thracians surrendered
a part of it to superior force, and a part was abandoned on account of
the bad quality of the ground, a large portion of which is marshy.
6. Except the mountainous tract of the Chersonesus on the sea-coast,
extending as far as Theodosia, all the rest consist of plains, the soil
of which is rich, and remarkably fertile in corn. It yields thirty-fold,
when turned up by the most ordinary implements of husbandry. The tribute
paid to Mithridates by the inhabitants, including that from the
neighbourhood of Sindace in Asia, amounted to 180,000 medimni of corn,
and 200 talents of silver. The Greeks in former times imported from this
country corn, and the cured fish of Palus Mæotis. Leucon is said to have
sent to the Athenians 2,100,000 medimni of corn from Theodosia. [2744]
The name of Georgi, or husbandmen, was appropriately given to these
people, to distinguish them from the nations situated above them, who
are nomades, and live upon the flesh of horses and other animals, on
cheese of mares’ milk, milk, and sour milk. The latter, prepared in a
peculiar manner, is a delicacy. [2745] Hence the poet designates all the
nations in that quarter as Galactophagi, milk-eaters.
The nomades are more disposed to war than to robbery. The occasion of
their contests was to enforce the payment of tribute. They permit those
to have land who are willing to cultivate it. In return for the use of
the land, they are satisfied with receiving a settled and moderate
tribute, not such as will furnish superfluities, but the daily
necessaries of life. If this tribute is not paid, the nomades declare
war. Hence the poet calls these people both just, and miserable,
(Abii,)[2746] for if the tribute is regularly paid, they do not have
recourse to war. Payment is not made by those, who have confidence in
their ability to repel attacks with ease, and to prevent the incursion
of their enemies. This course was pursued, as Hypsicrates relates, by
Asander, who fortified on the isthmus of the Chersonesus, at the Palus
Mæotis, a space of 360 stadia, and erected towers at the distance of
every 10 stadia. [2747]
The Georgi (husbandmen) are considered to be more civilized and mild in
their manners than the other tribes in this quarter, but they are
addicted to gain. They navigate the sea, and do not abstain from piracy,
nor from similar acts of injustice and rapacity.
7. Besides the places in the Chersonesus already enumerated, there are
the fortresses Palacium, and Chabum, and Neapolis,[2748] which Scilurus
and his sons constructed, from which they sallied out against the
generals of Mithridates.
There was also a fortress called Eupatorium, built by Diophantus, one of
the generals of Mithridates. [2749]
[CAS. 312] There is a promontory, distant about 15 stadia from the wall
of Chersonesus, which forms a large bay, which bends towards the city.
Above this bay is a sea-lake, where there are salt pits. Here was the
harbour Ctenus. The generals of the king, in order to strengthen their
means of resistance in case of siege, stationed a garrison on the
above-mentioned promontory, which was further protected by a
fortification. The mouth of the Gulf was closed by an embankment which
extended to the city, and was easily traversed on foot. The garrison and
the city were thus united. The Scythians were afterwards easily
repulsed. They attacked that part of the wall built across the isthmus
which touches upon Ctenus, and filled the ditch with straw. The kind of
bridge thus formed by day, was burnt at night by the king’s generals,
who continued their resistance and defeated the enemy. At present the
whole country is subject to whomsoever the Romans may appoint as king of
the Bosporus.
8. It is a custom peculiar to all the Scythian and Sarmatian tribes, to
castrate their horses, in order to make them more tractable, for
although they are small, yet they are spirited, and difficult to manage.
Stags and wild boars are hunted in the marshes, and wild asses and
roes[2750] in the plains. It is a peculiarity of this country, that no
eagles are to be found in it. Among the quadrupeds there is an animal
called Colus, in size between a deer and a ram; it is white, and swifter
in speed than either of those animals. It draws up water into the head
through the nostrils; from this store it can supply itself for several
days, and live without inconvenience in places destitute of water.
Such is the nature of the whole of the country beyond the Danube, lying
between the Rhine and the Don, and extending as far as the Pontic Sea
and the Palus Mæotis.
CHAPTER V.
1. There remains to be described that part of Europe included between
the Danube and the sea which surrounds it, beginning from the inner
recess of the Adriatic, and extending to the Sacred mouth of the Danube.
This part contains Greece, Macedonia, Epirus, and the people who live
above them, extending to the Danube and to the two seas (the Adriatic
and the Euxine Sea) on each side. On the Adriatic are the Illyrians; on
the Euxine Sea, as far as the Propontis[2751] and Hellespont, are the
Thracians, and the Scythian or Keltic tribes intermixed with them. We
must begin from the Danube, and treat of the countries which follow next
in order to those already described, that is to say, the parts
contiguous to Italy, the Alps, the Germans, the Dacians, and the Getæ.
These may be divided into two parts. For the mountains of Illyria,
Pæonia, and Thrace, may be considered as forming, as it were, a single
line, parallel to the Danube, and extending from the Adriatic to the
Euxine. To the north of this line is the country included between the
Danube and the mountains. To the south is Greece and the barbarous tract
contiguous to these mountains.
Near the Euxine Sea is Mount Hæmus,[2752] the largest and the highest of
the mountains in that quarter, and divides Thrace nearly in the middle.
According to Polybius, both seas may be seen from this mountain; but he
is mistaken, for the distance to the Adriatic is considerable, and many
things obstruct the view.
Almost the whole of Ardia[2753] lies near the Adriatic, Pæonia is in the
middle, and all this country consists of elevated ground. On the side
towards Thrace, it is bounded by Rhodope,[2754] a mountain next in
height to Hæmus; on the other side to the north is Illyria, and the
country of the Autariatæ,[2755] and Dardania. [2756]
I shall first describe Illyria, which approaches close to the Danube,
and to the Alps which lie between Italy and Germany, [CAS. 314] taking
their commencement from the lake in the territory of the Vindelici,
Rhæti, and Helvetii. [2757]
2. The Daci depopulated a part of this country in their wars with the
Boii and Taurisci, Keltic tribes whose chief was Critasirus. The Daci
claimed the country, although it was separated from them by the river
Parisus,[2758] which flows from the mountains to the Danube, near the
Galatæ Scordisci, a people who lived intermixed with the Illyrian and
the Thracian tribes. The Illyrians were destroyed by the Daci, while the
Scordisci were frequently their allies.
The rest of the country as far as Segestica,[2759] and the Danube,
towards the north and east, is occupied by Pannonii, but they extend
farther in an opposite direction. The city Segestica, belonging to the
Pannonii, is situated at the confluence of several rivers, all of which
are navigable. It is in a convenient situation for carrying on war
against the Daci, for it lies at the foot of the Alps, which extend to
the Iapodes,[2760] a mixed Keltic and Illyrian tribe. Thence also flow
the rivers by which is conveyed to Segestica a great quantity of
merchandise, and among the rest, commodities from Italy. The distance
from Aquileia to Nauportus,[2761] a settlement of the Taurisci, across
the mountain Ocra,[2762] is 350, or, according to some writers, 500
stadia. Merchandise is transported to Nauportus in waggons. The Ocra is
the lowest part of the Alps, which extend from Rhætica to the Iapodes,
where the mountains rise again, and are called Albii. From
Tergeste,[2763] a village of the Carni,[2764] there is a pass across and
through the Ocra to a marsh called Lugeum. [2765] A river, the Corcoras,
flows near Nauportus, and conveys the merchandise from that place. It
discharges itself into the Save, and this latter river into the
Drave; the Drave again into the Noarus at Segestica. Here the Noarus,
having received the Colapis[2766] as it descends in its full stream from
the mountain Albius through the Iapodes, enters the Danube among the
Scordisci. The navigation on the rivers is in general towards the north.
The journey from Tergeste to the Danube is about 1200 stadia. Near
Segestica is Siscia, a strong-hold, and Sirmium, both situated on the
road to Italy.
3. The Breuci, Andizetii, Ditiones, Peirustæ, Mazæi, Daisitiatæ, whose
chief was Baton, and other small obscure communities, which extend to
Dalmatia, and almost to the Ardiæi to the south, are Pannonians. The
whole mountainous tract from the recess of the Adriatic bay to the
Rhizonic gulf,[2767] and to the territory of the Ardiæi, intervening
between the sea and Pannonia, forms the coast of Illyria.
Here perhaps we ought to begin an uninterrupted account of these places,
after a short repetition.
In describing Italy we said, that the Istri were the first nation on the
Illyrian coast, contiguous to Italy and to the Carni, and that the
present government had advanced the limits of Italy to Pola,[2768] a
city of Istria. These limits are distant about 800 stadia from the
recess of the bay. It is the same distance from the promontory in front
of Pola to Ancon,[2769] keeping Henetica[2770] on the right hand. The
whole voyage along the coast of Istria is 1300 stadia.
4. Next is the voyage along the coast of the Iapodes, 1000 stadia in
extent. The Iapodes are situated on Mount Albius, which is the
termination of the Alps, and is of very great height. They reach in one
direction to the Pannonii and the Danube, and in another to the
Adriatic. They are a warlike people, but were completely subdued by
Augustus. Their cities are Metulum, Arupinum, Monetium, Vendum. [2771]
The country is poor, and the inhabitants live chiefly upon spelt and
millet. [2772] Their armour is after the Keltic fashion. Their bodies are
punctured, like those of the other Illyrian and Thracian people.
[CAS. 315] After the coast of the Iapodes follows that of Liburnia,
exceeding the former by 500 stadia. On this coast is Scardon,[2773] a
Liburnian city, and a river,[2774] which is navigable for vessels of
burden as far as the Dalmatæ.
5. Islands are scattered along the whole of the above-mentioned coast;
among them are the Apsyrtides, where Medea is said to have killed her
brother Apsyrtus, who was pursuing her.
Near the Iapodes is Cyrictica,[2775] then the Liburnian islands, about
forty in number; other islands follow, of which the best known are Issa,
Tragurium, founded by Isseans; Pharos, formerly Paros, founded by
Parians, the birth-place of Demetrius, the Pharian; then the coast of
the Dalmatæ and their naval arsenal, Salon. [2776] This nation was for a
long time at war with the Romans. They had fifty considerable
settlements, some of which were in the rank of cities, as Salon,
Priomon, Ninias, and the old and new Sinotium. Augustus burnt them down.
There is also Andetrium, a strong fortress, and Dalmatium, a large city,
of the same name as the nation. Scipio Nasica greatly reduced its size,
and converted the plain into a pasture for sheep, on account of the
disposition of the people to rob and pillage.
It is a custom peculiar to the Dalmatæ to make a partition of their
lands every eighth year. They do not use money, which is a peculiarity
also when compared with the habits of the other inhabitants of this
coast; but this is common among many other tribes of barbarians.
The mountain Adrion divides Dalmatia into two parts, one of which is on
the sea, the other forms the opposite side of the mountain. Then follow
the river Naron, and the people in the neighbourhood, the Daorizi,
Ardiæi, and Pleræi. [2777] Near the former lies the island Black
Corcyra,[2778] on which is a city founded by the Cnidians. Near the
Ardiæi is Pharos, formerly called Paros, for it was founded by Parians.
6. Later writers call the Ardiæi, Vardæi. [2779] The Romans drove them
into the interior from the sea-coast, which was infested by their
piracies, and compelled them to cultivate the ground; but as the country
was rugged and barren, and not adapted to husbandry, the nation was
entirely ruined and nearly extinguished. The same happened to other
neighbouring nations. People formerly very powerful are extinct, or were
reduced to the lowest condition, as the Boii and Scordisci among the
Galatæ; the Autariatæ, Ardiæi, and Dardanii, among the Illyrians; and
the Triballi among the Thracians. They first declined in consequence of
disputes amongst themselves, but were finally prostrated by wars with
the Macedonians and Romans.
7. After the termination of the coast of the Ardiæi and Pleræi is the
bay of the Rhizæi, a city Rhizon,[2780] other small towns, and the river
Drilon,[2781] which may be navigated up its stream towards the east as
far as Dardanica. This country is situated close to the Macedonian and
Pæonian nations, towards the south, as also the Autariatæ and the
Dasaretii are in parts contiguous to one another [and to the
Autariatæ]. [2782] To the Dardaniatæ belong the Galabrii,[2783] in whose
territory is an ancient city; and the Thunatæ, who approach on the east
close to the Mædi,[2784] a Thracian tribe.
The Dardanii are entirely a savage people, so much so that they dig
caves beneath dung heaps, in which they dwell; yet they are fond of
music, and are much occupied in playing upon pipes and on stringed
instruments. They inhabit the inland parts of the country, and we shall
mention them again in another place.
8. After the bay of Rhizon[2785] is Lissus,[2786] a city,
Acrolissus,[2787] and Epidamnus, the present Dyrrhachium,[2788] founded
by Corcyræans, and bearing the name of the peninsula on which it [CAS.
316] is situated. Then follow the rivers Apsus[2789] and the Aous,[2790]
on the banks of which is situated Apollonia,[2791] a city governed by
excellent laws. It was founded by Corinthians and Corcyræans, and is
distant from the river 10, and from the sea 60, stadia. Hecatæus calls
the Aous, Aïas, and says that from the same place, or rather from the
same sources about Lacmus,[2792] the Inachus flows southward, to
Argos,[2793] and the Aïas westward, into the Adriatic.
In the territory of the Apolloniatæ there is what is called a Nymphæum.
It is a rock which emits fire. Below it are springs flowing with hot
water and asphaltus. The earth containing the asphaltus is probably in a
state of combustion. The asphaltus is dug out of a neighbouring hill;
the parts excavated are replaced by fresh earth, which after a time are
converted into asphaltus. This account is given by Posidonius, who says
also, that the ampelitis, an asphaltic earth found in the Pierian
Seleucia,[2794] is a remedy for the lice which infest the vine. If the
vine is smeared with this earth mixed with oil, the insects are killed
before they ascend from the root to the branches. This earth, but it
required for use a larger quantity of oil, he says was found at Rhodes
also, while he held there the office of Prytanes.
Next to Apollonia is Bylliace (Bullis) and Oricum,[2795] with its naval
arsenal, Panormus, and the Ceraunian mountains, which form the
commencement of the entrance of the Ionian and Adriatic Gulfs.
9. The mouth is common to both; but this difference is to be observed,
that the name Ionian[2796] is applied to the first part of the gulf
only, and Adriatic to the interior sea up to the farthest end, but the
name Adriatic is now applied to the whole sea. According to Theopompus,
the name Ionian was derived from a chief (Ionius) of that country, a
native of Issa; and the name Adriatic from a river, Adrias. [2797]
From the Liburni to the Ceraunian mountains is a distance of a little
more than 2000 stadia. But Theopompus says, that it is six days’ sail
from the farthest recess of the bay, but a journey of thirty days by
land along the length of Illyria. This appears to me an exaggeration,
but he makes many incredible statements. Among other instances, he
pretends that there is a subterraneous passage between the Adriatic and
the Ægean Seas, grounding his opinion on the discovery of Chian and
Thasian pottery in the river Naron. [2798] The two seas, he says, may be
seen from some pretended mountain. He describes the Liburnian islands as
occupying a position so extensive as to form a circle of 500 stadia.
According to him, the Danube discharges itself by one of its mouths into
the Adriatic. [2799] Similar mistakes are to be found in Eratosthenes,
which Polybius, when speaking of him and other writers, describes as
having their origin in vulgar error. [2800]
10. On the coast of Illyria, along its whole extent, and in the
neighbouring islands, there are numerous excellent harbours, contrary to
what occurs on the opposite Italian coast, where there are none. As in
Italy, however, the climate is warm, and the soil productive of fruits;
olives also and vines grow readily, except in some few excessively
rugged places. Although Illyria possesses these advantages, it was
formerly neglected, through ignorance, perhaps, of its fertility; but it
was principally avoided on account of the savage manners of the
inhabitants, and their piratical habits.
The region situated above the sea-coast is mountainous, cold, and at
times covered with snow. The northern part is still colder, so that
vines are rarely to be met with either in the hills or in the plains
lower down. These mountain-plains are in the possession of the
Pannonians, and extend towards the south as far as the Dalmatians and
Ardiæi. They terminate towards the north at the Ister, and approach
towards [CAS. 317] the east close to the Scordisci, who live near the
Macedonian and Thracian mountains.
11. The Autariatæ were the most populous and the bravest tribe of the
Illyrians. Formerly, there were continual disputes between them and the
Ardiæi respecting the salt which was spontaneously formed on the
confines of their respective territories, in the spring season, from
water which flows through a valley. The salt concreted five days after
the water was drawn and deposited in reservoirs. The right of collecting
salt was, by agreement, to be exercised alternately by each party, but
the compact was broken and war was the consequence. After the Autariatæ
had subdued the Triballi, a people whose territory extended a journey of
fifteen days, from the Agrianæ to the Danube, they became masters of the
Thracians and Illyrians. The Autariatæ were first conquered by the
Scordisci, and afterwards by the Romans, who overpowered the Scordisci,
for a long time a powerful nation.
12. This people inhabited the country on the banks of the Danube, and
were divided into two tribes, the Great and the Little Scordisci. [2801]
The former occupied the space between two rivers, which empty themselves
into the Danube, the Noarus,[2802] which runs beside Segestica, and the
Margus, or, as some call it, Bargus.
The Little Scordisci lived beyond
this river close to the Triballi and Mysi. [2803] The Scordisci possessed
some of the islands also. They increased so much in strength and numbers
as to advance even to the Illyrian, Pæonian, and Thracian confines. Most
of the islands on the Danube fell into their hands, and they possessed
the cities Heorta and Capedunum. [2804]
Next to the territory of the Scordisci, lying along the banks of the
Danube, is the country of the Triballi and Mysi, whom we have before
mentioned; we have also spoken of the marshes[2805] of the Lesser
Scythia on this side the Danube. This nation, and the Crobyzi, and the
nation called Troglodytæ, live above the districts in which are situated
Callatis, Tomis, and Ister. [2806] Next are the people about the Mount
Hæmus, and those who live at its foot, extending as far as the Pontus,
Coralli, and Bessi, and some tribes of Mædi and of Dantheletæ. All these
nations are very much addicted to robbery. The Bessi possess far the
greatest part of Mount Hæmus, and are called Robbers from their mode of
life as freebooters. Some of them live in huts and lead a life of
hardship. They extend close to Rhodope, the Pæones, and to the Illyrian
nations; to the Autariatæ also, and the Dardanians. Between these and
the Ardiæi are the Dasaretii, Hybrianes, and other obscure nations,
whose numbers the Scordisci were continually reducing, until they had
made the country a desert, full of impassable forests, which extended
several days’ journey.
CHAPTER VI.
1. Of the country situated between the Danube and the mountains on each
side of Pæonia, there remains to be described the Pontic coast, which
reaches from the Sacred mouth of the Danube to the mountainous district
about Hæmus, and to the mouth of the Pontus at Byzantium. As in
describing the Illyrian coast we had proceeded as far as the Ceraunian
mountains, which, although they stretch beyond the mountainous district
of Illyria, yet constitute a sort of proper boundary, we determined by
means of these mountains the limits of the nations in the inland parts,
considering, that such separating lines would be better marks both for
our present and future use; so here also the coast, although it may fall
beyond the mountainous line, will still end at a proper kind of limit,
the mouth of the Pontus, which will be useful both for our present and
our future descriptions.
If we set out from the Sacred mouth of the Danube, having on the right
hand the continuous line of coast, we find at the [CAS. 319] distance of
500 stadia, Ister,[2807] a small town founded by Milesians; then
Tomis,[2808] another small town, at the distance of 250 stadia; then
Callatis,[2809] a city, a colony of the Heracleotæ, at 280 stadia; then,
at 1300 stadia, Apollonia,[2810] a colony of Milesians, having the
greater part of the buildings upon a small island, where is a temple of
Apollo, whence Marcus Lucullus took the Colossus of Apollo, the work of
Calamides, and dedicated it as a sacred offering in the Capitol. In the
intermediate distance between Callatis and Apollonia, is Bizone, a great
part of which was swallowed up by an earthquake; Cruni;[2811]
Odessus,[2812] a colony of Milesians; and Naulochus, a small town of the
Mesembriani. Next follows the mountain Hæmus,[2813] extending to the sea
in this quarter; then Mesembria,[2814] a colony of the Megarenses,
formerly called Menabria, or city of Mena, Menas being the name of the
founder, and bria,[2815] signifying in the Thracian tongue, city. Thus
the city of Selys is called Selybria, and Ænus once had the name of
Poltyobria. Then follows Anchiale,[2816] a small town of the
Apolloniatæ, and Apollonia itself.
On this coast is the promontory Tirizis, a place naturally strong, which
Lysimachus formerly used as a treasury. Again, from Apollonia to the
Cyaneæ are about 1500 stadia. In this interval are Thynias, a tract
belonging to the Apolloniatæ, Phinopolis, and Andriace,[2817] which are
contiguous to Salmydessus. This coast is without inhabitants and rocky,
without harbours, stretching far towards the north, and extending as far
as the Cyaneæ, about 700 stadia. Those who are wrecked on this coast are
plundered by the Asti, a Thracian tribe who live above it.
The Cyaneæ[2818] are two small islands at the mouth of the Pontus, one
lying near Europe, the other near Asia, and are separated by a channel
of about 20 stadia. This is the measure of the distance between the
temple of the Byzantines and the temple of the Chalcedonians, where is
the narrowest part of the mouth of the Euxine Sea. For proceeding
onwards 10 stadia there is a promontory, which reduces the strait to 5
stadia; the strait afterwards opens to a greater width, and begins to
form the Propontis.
2. From the promontory, then, that reduces the strait to 5 stadia, to
the Port under the Fig-tree, as it is called, are 35 stadia; thence to
the Horn of the Byzantines, 5 stadia. This Horn, close to the walls of
Byzantium, is a bay, extending westwards 60 stadia, and resembling a
stag’s horn, for it is divided into a great many bays, like so many
branches. The Pelamides[2819] resort to these bays, and are easily
taken, on account of their great number, and the force of the current,
which drives them together in a body; and also on account of the
narrowness of the bays, which is such that they are caught even by the
hand. These fish are bred in the marshes of the Mæotis. When they have
attained a little size and strength, they rush through the mouth in
shoals, and are carried along the Asiatic coast as far as Trapezus and
Pharnacia. It is here that the fishery begins, but it is not carried on
to any considerable extent, because the fish are not of a proper size at
this place. When they get as far as Sinope, they are in better season
for the fishery, and for the purpose of salting. But when they have
reached and passed the Cyaneæ, a white rock projects from the
Chalcedonian shore, which alarms the fish, so that they immediately turn
away to the opposite coast. There they are caught by the stream, and the
nature of the places being such as to divert the current of the sea in
that part towards Byzantium, and the Horn near it, the fish are impelled
thither in a body, and afford to the Byzantines, and to the Roman
people, a large revenue. The Chalcedonians, however, although situated
near, and on the opposite side, have no share of this supply, because
the Pelamides do not approach their harbours.
After the foundation of Chalcedon, Apollo is said to have [CAS. 320]
enjoined the founders of Byzantium, in answer to their inquiries, to
build their city opposite to the Blind, applying this name to the
Chalcedonians, who, although they were the first persons to arrive in
these parts, had omitted to take possession of the opposite side, which
afforded such great resources of wealth, and chose the barren coast.
We have continued our description to Byzantium, because this celebrated
city,[2820] by its proximity to the mouth of the Euxine Sea, forms a
better-known and more remarkable termination of an account of the coast
from the Danube than any other.
Above Byzantium is the nation of the Asti, in whose territory is the
city Calybe, which Philip the son of Amyntas made a settlement for
criminals.
CHAPTER VII.
1. These are the nations, bounded by the Danube and by the Illyrian and
Thracian mountains, which are worthy of record. They occupy the whole
coast of the Adriatic Sea, beginning from the recess of the gulf, and
the left side, as it is called, of the Euxine Sea, from the river Danube
to Byzantium.
The southern parts of the above-mentioned mountainous tract, and the
countries which follow, lying below it, remain to be described. Among
these are Greece, and the contiguous barbarous country extending to the
mountains.
Hecatæus of Miletus says of the Peloponnesus, that, before the time of
the Greeks, it was inhabited by barbarians. Perhaps even the whole of
Greece was, anciently, a settlement of barbarians, if we judge from
former accounts. For Pelops brought colonists from Phrygia into the
Peloponnesus, which took his name; Danaus[2821] brought colonists from
Egypt; Dryopes, Caucones, Pelasgi, Leleges, and other barbarous nations,
partitioned among themselves the country on this side of the
isthmus. [2822] The case was the same on the other side of the isthmus;
for Thracians, under their leader Eumolpus,[2823] took possession of
Attica; Tereus of Daulis in Phocæa; the Phœnicians, with their leader
Cadmus,[2824] occupied the Cadmeian district; Aones, and Temmices, and
Hyantes, Bœotia. Pindar says, “there was a time when the Bœotian people
were called Syes. ”[2825] Some names show their barbarous origin, as
Cecrops, Codrus, Œclus, Cothus, Drymas, and Crinacus. [2826] Thracians,
Illyrians, and Epirotæ are settled even at present on the sides of
Greece. Formerly the territory they possessed was more extensive,
although even now the barbarians possess a large part of the country,
which, without dispute, is Greece. Macedonia is occupied by Thracians,
as well as some parts of Thessaly; the country above Acarnania and
Ætolia, by Thesproti, Cassopæi, Amphilochi, Molotti, and Athamanes,
Epirotic tribes.
2. We have already spoken of the Pelasgi. [2827] Some writers conjecture
that the Leleges and Carians are the same people; others, that they were
only joint settlers, and comrades in war, because there are said to be
some settlements called Settlements of the Leleges in the Milesian
territory, and in many parts of Caria there are burial-places of the
Leleges, and deserted fortresses, called Lelegia.
The whole country called Ionia was formerly inhabited by Carians and
Leleges; these were expelled by the Ionians, who themselves took
possession of the country. In still [CAS. 322] earlier times, the
captors of Troy[2828] had driven out the Leleges from the places about
Ida near the rivers Pedasus and Satnioeis.
The fact of the association of these people with the Carians may be
regarded as a proof of their being barbarians, and Aristotle, in his
Politics, shows that they were a wandering nation, sometimes in company
with the Carians, sometimes alone, and that from ancient times; for, in
speaking of the polity of the Acarnanians, he says that the Curetes
occupied a part of the country, and the Leleges (and after them the
Teleboæ) the western side. On the subject of the Ætolian polity, he
calls the present Locri, Leleges, and observes that they occupy Bœotia.
He repeats the same remark on the subject of the polity of the Opuntians
and Megareans. In speaking of the polity of the Leucadians, he mentions
an aboriginal by name, Leleges, and a grandson by his daughter of the
name of Teleboas, and besides two and twenty of his sons of the name of
Teleboas, some of whom inhabited Lucas. But we should chiefly rely upon
Hesiod, who thus speaks of them:
“For Locrus was the leader of the nation of the Leleges, whom
Jupiter, the son of Saturn, in his infinite wisdom, once gave as
subjects to Deucalion, a people gathered from among the nations
of the earth. ”
For it seems to me to be obscurely intimated by the etymology of the
name, Leleges, that they were a mixed people anciently collected
together, which had become extinct. And this may be said of the
Caucones, who exist no where at present, yet were formerly settled in
several places.
3. Although Greece was formerly composed of small nations, many in
number, and obscure; nevertheless their valour, and their separate
government by kings, prevented any difficulty in defining their
boundaries. As the greatest part of the country, however, is at present
uninhabited, and the settlements, especially the cities, have been
destroyed, it would be of no service, even if it were possible, to
ascertain the names of cities and regions occupied by obscure and
extinct people. This destruction, which began a long time since, still
continues in many parts in consequence of rebellion. It has been checked
by the Romans, who accepted the supreme authority from the inhabitants
and lodged soldiers in their houses.
Polybius says that Paulus [Emilius], after the defeat of the
Macedonians[2829] and their king Perseus, destroyed 70 cities of the
Epirotæ (most of which belonged to the Molotti) and reduced to slavery
150,000 of the inhabitants. Still, however, I shall endeavour, as far as
it is compatible with the design of this work, to describe, as far as I
am able, these places in detail, beginning from the sea-coast near the
Ionian Gulf, where the navigation out of the Adriatic terminates.
4. The first parts of this coast are those about Epidamnus and
Apollonia. From Apollonia to Macedonia is the Egnatian Way; its
direction is towards the east, and the distance is measured by pillars
at every mile, as far as Cypselus[2830] and the river Hebrus. [2831] The
whole distance is 535 miles. But reckoning, as the generality of persons
reckon, a mile at eight stadia, there may be 4280 stadia. And according
to Polybius, who adds two plethra, that is, the third of a stadium, to
every eight stadia, we must add 178 stadia more, a third part of the
number of miles. [2832] A traveller from Apollonia,[2833] and a traveller
from Epidamnus,[2834] on the same road, meet midway between the two
cities. The whole is called the Egnatian Way. The first part of it is
called the road to Candavia, which is an Illyrian mountain. It passes
through Lychnidus,[2835] a city, and Pylon, a place which separates
Illyria from Macedonia. Thence its direction is beside Barnus through
Heracleia, the Lyncestæ, and the Eordi, to Edessa[2836] and Pella,[2837]
as far as Thessalonica. [2838] Polybius says, that this is a distance of
267 miles. In travelling this road from the neighbourhood of Epidamnus
and Apollonia, on the right hand are the Epirotic nations situated on
the coast of the Sicilian Sea, and extending as far as the Gulf of
Ambracia;[2839] on the left are the Illyrian mountains, which we have
before described, and the nations that live near them, extending as far
as Macedonia and the Pæones.
[CAS. 323] From the Gulf of Ambracia the places next in order, inclining
to the east, and extending opposite to Peloponnesus, belong to Greece;
they terminate at the Ægean Sea, leaving the whole of Peloponnesus on
the right hand.
The country, from the commencement of the Macedonian and Pæonian
mountains, as far as the river Strymon,[2840] is inhabited by
Macedonians, and Pæones, and some of the Thracian mountain tribes. But
all the country on the other side the Strymon, as far as the mouth of
the Euxine Sea, and Mount Hæmus,[2841] belong to the Thracians, except
the coast, which is occupied by Greeks, some of whom are settled on the
Propontis,[2842] others on the Hellespont and on the Gulf Melas,[2843]
and others on the Ægean Sea.
The Ægean Sea waters two sides of Greece; first, the eastern side,
extending from the promontory Sunium[2844] to the north as far as the
Thermæan Gulf, and Thessalonica, a Macedonian city, which has, at
present, the largest population in these parts. Then the southern side,
which is a part of Macedonia, extending from Thessalonica to the
Strymon. Some writers assign the coast from the Strymon as far as
Nestus[2845] to Macedonia. For Philip showed the greatest solicitude to
obtain, and at length appropriated it to himself. He raised a very large
revenue from the mines, and from other sources which the richness of the
country afforded.
From Sunium to the Peloponnesus are the Myrtoan, the Cretan, and the
Libyan Seas, together with the Gulfs, as far as the Sicilian Sea, which
consist of the Gulfs of Ambracia, of Corinth, and of Crissa.
5. Theopompus says, that there are fourteen Epirotic nations. Of these,
the most celebrated are the Chaones and Molotti, because the whole of
Epirus was at one time subject, first to Chaones, afterwards to Molotti.
Their power was greatly strengthened by the family of their kings being
descended from the Æacidæ, and because the ancient and famous oracle of
Dodona[2846] was in their country. Chaones, Thesproti, and next after
these Cassopæi, (who are Thesproti,) occupy the coast, a fertile tract
reaching from the Ceraunian mountains to the Ambracian Gulf.
The voyage commencing from the Chaones eastward towards the Gulfs of
Ambracia and Corinth, and having the Ausonian Sea on the right, and
Epirus on the left, comprises 1300 stadia to the mouth of the Ambracian
Gulf. In this interval is Panormus,[2847] a large port in the middle of
the Ceraunian mountains. Next to this is Onchesmus,[2848] another
harbour, opposite to which are the western extremities of Corcyra,[2849]
and then again another port, Cassiope,[2850] (Cassope? ) whence to
Brundusium[2851] are 1700 stadia. It is the same distance to Tarentum
from another promontory more to the south than Cassiope, which is called
Phalacrum. Next after Onchesmus are Posidium, and Buthrotum,[2852]
(which is situated upon the mouth of the lake Pelodes, in a spot of a
peninsula form, and has a Roman colony,) and the Sybota. The
Sybota[2853] are small islands at a little distance from Epirus, lying
near Leucimme,[2854] the eastern promontory of Corcyra. There are also
other small islands, not worthy of notice, which are met with along the
coast.
Next is the promontory Chimerium, and a harbour called Glycys-Limen, [or
Sweet Harbour,] where the river Acheron, which receives several other
rivers, empties itself and renders fresh the water of the gulf. The
Thyamus[2855] flows near it. Above this gulf is situated Cichyrus,
formerly Ephyra, a city of the Thesproti, and above the gulf at
Buthrotum, Phœnice. [2856] Near Cichyrus is Buchetium, a small city of
the Cassopæi, situated at a little distance from the sea; Elatria,
Pandosia, and Batiæ are in the inland parts. Their territory extends as
far as the gulf. Next after the harbour Glycys-Limen are two others,
Comarus,[2857] the nearest and smallest, forming an isthmus of 60
stadia, near the Ambracian Gulf and Nicopolis,[2858] founded by Augustus
Cæsar; the other, the more distant and larger, and better harbour, is
near the mouth of the gulf, and distant from Nicopolis about 12 stadia.
6. Then follows the entrance of the Ambracian Gulf, [CAS. 326] which is
a little more than four stadia in width. The circuit of the gulf is 400
stadia, and the whole has good harbours. On sailing into it, on the
right hand are the Acarnanes, who are Greeks; and here near the entrance
of the gulf is a temple of Apollo Actius, situated on an eminence; in
the plain below is a sacred grove, and a naval station. Here Augustus
Cæsar[2859] dedicated as offerings one-tenth of the vessels taken in
war, from vessels of one bank to vessels of ten banks of oars. The
vessels, and the buildings destined for their reception, were destroyed,
it is said, by fire.
On the left hand are Nicopolis,[2860] and the Cassopæi, a tribe of the
Epirotæ, extending as far as the recess of the gulf at Ambracia.
Ambracia[2861] is situated a little above the recess of the bay, and was
founded by Gorgus, (Torgus, Tolgus,) the son of Cypselus. The river
Arathus flows beside it, which may be navigated up the stream to the
city, a distance of a few stadia. It rises in Mount Tymphe, and the
Paroræa. This city was formerly in a very flourishing condition, and
hence the gulf received its name from the city. Pyrrhus, however,
embellished it more than any other person, and made it a royal
residence. In later times,[2862] the Macedonians and Romans harassed
this and other cities by continual wars, caused by the refractory
disposition of the inhabitants, so that Augustus, at length perceiving
that these cities were entirely deserted, collected their remaining
inhabitants into one city, which he called Nicopolis, situated upon the
gulf. He called it after the victory which he obtained in front of the
gulf, over Antony, and Cleopatra, the queen of Egypt, who was present in
the engagement.
Nicopolis is well peopled, and is improving every day. It has a large
territory, and is adorned with the spoils of war. In the suburbs is a
sacred enclosure; part of it is a grove, containing a gymnasium and a
stadium, intended for the celebration of quinquennial games; the other
part, on a rising ground overhanging the grove, is sacred to Apollo. The
Olympian game, called the Actia,[2863] is instituted there in honour of
Apollo Actius. It is under the superintendence of the Lacedæmonians. The
other surrounding settlements are dependent on Nicopolis. The Actian
games[2863] were formerly celebrated in honour of the god by the
neighbouring people; it was a contest in which the victor was crowned;
but Cæsar has conferred on it greater honours.
7. After Ambracia follows the Amphilochian Argos, founded by Alcmæon and
his sons. According to Ephorus, Alcmæon, after the expedition of the
Epigoni[2864] against Thebes, upon the solicitation of Diomed,
accompanied him in his invasion of Ætolia, and obtained joint possession
of this country and of Acarnania. When Agamemnon invited them to come to
the siege of Troy, Diomed went, but Alcmæon remained in Acarnania,
founded Argos, and gave it the name Amphilochian, after his brother
Amphilochus. On the same authority the river Inachus, which flows
through the country and empties itself into the bay, received its name
from the river in the Argive territory. Thucydides, however, says that
Amphilochus himself, upon his return from Troy, dissatisfied with the
state of things at Argos, passed over into Acarnania, and having
succeeded to the dynasty of his brother, founded the city which is
called after his name.
8. The Amphilochians are Epirotæ, as also are those nations who inhabit
a rugged country situated above and close to the Illyrian mountains, the
Molotti, Athamanes, Æthices, Tymphæi, Orestæ Paroræi, and Atintanes,
some of whom approach nearer to Macedonia, others to the Ionian Gulf. It
is said that Orestes possessed the territory Orestias at the time of his
flight, after the murder of his mother, and left the country [CAS. 327]
bearing his name, where also he had built a city called Orestic Argos.
With these people are intermixed Illyrian nations, some of whom are
situated on the southern part of the mountainous district, and others
above the Ionian Gulf. For above Epidamnus and Apollonia, as far as the
Ceraunian mountains, live the Bulliones, Taulantii, Parthini, and
Brygi. [2865]
Somewhere near are the silver mines of Damastium. Here the Perisadyes
had established their sway, and Enchelii, who are also called
Sesarethii. Then come the Lyncestæ, the territory Deuriopus,
Pelagonia-Tripolitis, the Eordi, Elimia, and Eratyra. Formerly each of
these nations was under its own prince. The chiefs of the Enchelii were
descendants of Cadmus and Harmonia, and scenes of the fables respecting
these persons are shown in the territory. This nation, therefore, was
not governed by native princes. The Lyncestæ were under Arrhabæus, who
was of the race of the Bacchiadæ. Irra was his daughter, and his
grand-daughter was Eurydice, the mother of Philip Amyntas.
The Molotti also were Epirotæ, and were subjects of Pyrrhus Neoptolemus,
the son of Achilles, and of his descendants, who were Thessalians. The
rest were governed by native princes. Some tribes were continually
endeavouring to obtain the mastery over the others, but all were finally
subdued by the Macedonians, except a few situated above the Ionian Gulf.
They gave the name of Upper Macedonia to the country about Lyncestis,
Pelagonia, Orestias, and Elimia. Later writers called it Macedonia the
Free, and some extend the name of Macedonia to all the country as far as
Corcyra, at the same time assigning as their reasons, the mode of
cutting their hair, their language, the use of the chlamys, and similar
things in which they resemble the Macedonians; some of them, however,
speak two languages. On the dissolution of the Macedonian empire, they
fell under the power of the Romans.
The Egnatian Way, from Epidamnus and Apollonia, passes through the
territory of these people. Near the road to Candavia are the lakes about
Lychnidus, which furnish large supplies of fish for salting, and rivers,
some of which empty themselves into the Ionian Gulf. Some flow towards
the south, as the Inachus, the Arathus, (Ratoüs,) the Achelous, and the
Evenus, formerly called Lycormas. The Ratoüs discharges its waters into
the Ambracian Gulf, the Inachus into the Achelous, the Achelous itself
into the sea, as also the Evenus; the former traverses Acarnania, the
latter Ætolia. The Erigon, after having received many streams which flow
from the Illyrian mountains, and through the territories of Lyncestæ,
Brygi, Deuriopes, and Pelagonians, empties itself into the Axius.
9. There were formerly cities among these nations. The district
Pelagonia-Tripolitis contained (as the name signifies) three cities, of
which Azorus was one. All the cities of the Deuriopes were situated on
the banks of the Erigon; among which were Bryanium, Alalcomenæ,[2866]
and Stymbara. [2867] Cydriæ belonged to the Brygi, and Æginium on the
confines of Æthicia, and Tricca, to the Tymphæi. Near Macedonia and
Thessalia, about the mountains Pœus and Pindus, are the Æthices, and the
sources of the Peneus, which are a subject of dispute between the
Tymphæi and the Thessalians, who are situated below Pindus.
On the banks of the river Ion is Oxynia, a city distant from Azorus in
the Tripolitis 120 stadia. Near Oxynia are Alalcomenæ, Æginium, Europus,
and the confluence of the Ion with the Peneus.
At that time then, as I said before, the whole of Epirus and Illyria
were well peopled, although the country is rugged and full of mountains,
such as Tomarus, and Polyanus, and many others. At present the greater
part is uninhabited, and the inhabited parts are left in the state of
villages, or in ruins. Even the oracle at Dodona has almost been
deserted, like the rest.
10. This oracle, according to Ephorus, was established by Pelasgi, who
are said to be the most ancient people that were sovereigns in Greece.
Thus the poet speaks,
“O great Pelasgic Dodonæan Jove;”[2868]
and Hesiod,
“He went to Dodona, the dwelling of the Pelasgi, and to the beech
tree. ”
[CAS. 328] I have spoken of the Pelasgi in the account of Tyrrhenia.
With respect to Dodona, Homer clearly intimates that the people who
lived about the temple were barbarians, from their mode of life,
describing them as persons who do not wash their feet, and who sleep on
the ground. Whether we should read Helli, with Pindar, or Selli, as it
is conjectured the word existed in Homer, the ambiguity of the writing
does not permit us to affirm confidently. Philochorus says, that the
country about Dodona was called, like Eubœa, Hellopia; for these are the
words of Hesiod,
“There is a country Hellopia, rich in corn-fields and pastures;
at its extremity is built Dodona. ”
It is supposed, says Apollodorus, that it had this name from the “hele,”
or marshes about the temple. He is of opinion that the poet did not call
the people about the temple Helli, but Selli, adding, that Homer
mentions a certain river (near) of the name of Selleis. He specifies the
name in this line,
“At a distance far from Ephyra, from the river Selleis. ”
[Demetrius of Skepsis contends that] Ephyra of Thesprotia is not here
meant, but Ephyra of Elis. For the river Selleis is in Elis, and there
is no river of this name either in Thesprotia or among the Molotti. The
fable of the oak and the doves, and other similar things, like the
stories connected with Delphi, although they are subjects more adapted
to engage the attention of a poet, yet are appropriate to the
description of the country with which we are now occupied.
Dodona was formerly subject to the Thesproti, as was the mountain
Tomarus, or Tmarus, (both names are in use,) below which the temple is
situated.
