[2150] It is
the last promontory, and looks towards the south; for presently on
doubling it the course takes a south-western direction as far as the
promontory of Iapygia,[2151] then it runs towards the north more and
more, and towards the west along the Ionian gulf.
the last promontory, and looks towards the south; for presently on
doubling it the course takes a south-western direction as far as the
promontory of Iapygia,[2151] then it runs towards the north more and
more, and towards the west along the Ionian gulf.
Strabo
That the sea retired from it to a distance of
three stadia, but after remaining so for a short time it returned, and
inundated the island, thus extinguishing the fire. And that the
inhabitants of the continent fled at the noise, from the sea-coast, into
the interior of Campania. It seems that the hot-springs[2017] here are a
remedy for those afflicted with gravel. Capreæ[2018] anciently possessed
two small cities, afterwards but one. The Neapolitans possessed this
island, but having lost Pithecussæ in war, they received it again from
Cæsar Augustus, giving him in exchange Capreæ. This [island] having thus
become the property of that prince, he [CAS. 248] has ornamented it with
numerous edifices. Such then are the maritime cities of Campania, and
the islands lying opposite to it.
10. In the interior is the metropolis, Capua, being, as the etymon of
the name signifies, the head; for in regard to it all the other cities
appear small, excepting Teanum-Sidicinum,[2019] which is a very
considerable place. This city lies on the Via Appia, as also the others
which lead from hence to Brundusium, [viz. ] Callateria,[2020]
Caudium,[2021] and Beneventum. [2022] On the side of Rome is
Casilinum,[2023] situated on the river Vulturnus. [2024] Here 540 men of
Præneste sustained against Hannibal in the height of his power so
desperate a siege, that by reason of the famine, a rat[2025] was sold
for two hundred drachmæ, the seller dying [of hunger], but the purchaser
being saved. Hannibal observing some of them sowing turnip-seed near to
the wall, admired, as well he might, the patient courage of these men,
who hoped to hold out in the mean while, until these turnips should be
ready for food. However, we are assured that they all survived, with the
exception of a few who perished either by famine or in war.
11. In addition to those just spoken of, there are these Campanian
cities which we have already mentioned, viz. Cales,[2026] and
Teanum-Sidicinum, the limits of which are respectively marked out by the
two temples of Fortune situated on either side of the Via Latina.
Besides these are Suessula,[2027] Atella,[2028] Nola,[2029]
Nuceria,[2030] Acerræ,[2031] Abella,[2032] with other smaller
settlements, some of which are said to be Samnite. [2033] The Samnites,
by making incursions into Latium as far as Ardea, and afterwards
devastating Campania itself, greatly extended their power. The
Campanians, being otherwise accustomed to a despotic government, yielded
ready obedience to their commands. At the present day they have been
almost entirely exterminated by the various Roman generals, and last of
all by Sulla, who was absolute master of the republic. He, after having
by numerous battles extinguished the Italian revolt, observing that the
Samnites, almost without exception, remained in one body, and with one
sole intention, so that they had even marched upon Rome itself, gave
them battle under the walls, and as he had issued orders to make no
prisoners, many of them were cut to pieces on the field, while the
remainder, said to be about three or four thousand men, who threw down
their arms, were led off to the _Villa Publica_ in the Campus Martius,
and there shut in; three days after soldiers were sent in who massacred
the whole; and when [Sulla] drew up his conscription list, he did not
rest satisfied until he had destroyed, or driven from Italy, every one
who bore a Samnite name. To those who reproached him for this animosity,
he replied that he had learned by experience that not a single Roman
could rest in peace so long as any of the Samnites survived. Thus their
cities have now dwindled into villages, some indeed being entirely
deserted, as Boianum,[2034] Æsernia,[2035] Panna, Telesia[2036]
adjoining Venafrum, and others similar, none of which can be looked upon
as cities; but in a country so renowned and powerful as Italy, we
thought proper to mention places even of second-rate importance. [We
should add that] Beneventum[2037] and Venusia[2038] are still
prosperous.
12. The following is the tradition concerning the [origin of the]
Samnites. The Sabines having been engaged for [CAS. 250] a long period
in war with the Ombrici, made a vow, common with some of the Grecian
nations, that they would consecrate to the gods the productions of the
year. [2039] They were victorious, and accordingly of the
productions,[2040] the one kind were sacrificed, the other consecrated.
However, in a time of scarcity, some one remarked, that they ought
likewise to have consecrated the children. This then they did, and the
children born at that period were called the sons of Mars. [2041] When
these had grown up to manhood, they were sent forth, a bull leading the
way, to found a colony. The bull lay down to rest in a place belonging
to the Opici; a people dwelling in villages. These they drove out, and
established themselves in the place. The bull, according to the
direction of the diviners, they sacrificed to Mars, who had given him to
them as a leader. It seems to have been in allusion to this that their
parents called them by the diminutive form of Sabelli. [2042] The name of
Samnites, or, as the Greeks call them, Saunites, originated in another
cause. It is also said that certain Lacedæmonians came to dwell amongst
them, and that this is the reason of their affection for the Greeks, and
that certain of them are called Pitanatæ. [2043] The whole of this,
however, appears to be a mere fabrication of the Tarentini, interested
in flattering and conciliating to themselves a neighbouring people, so
powerful as to be able, on a time, to bring into the field a force of
eighty thousand foot-soldiers, and eight thousand cavalry. There is said
to be a law amongst the Samnites, excellent in itself, and calculated to
excite to virtue. It is not lawful for fathers to give away their
daughters to whomsoever they may please; but every year ten of the most
virtuous young women, and ten of the most virtuous young men, are
selected; of these the most excellent young man is married to the most
excellent young woman, the second to the second, and so on in order.
Should he who receives this reward, afterwards change and become wicked,
he is dishonoured, and the wife who had been given is taken away from
him. Beyond are the Hirpini, who are also Samnites: their name they take
from the wolf, which conducted their colony; a wolf being called by the
Samnites _hirpos_: these people border on the Leucani in the interior.
So much for the Samnites.
13. The fertility of their country has been productive to the Campanians
of as much evil as good. Their luxury ran to such a height, that they
would invite to supper, in order to exhibit pairs of fighting
gladiators, the exact number of pairs being regulated according to the
distinction of the guests. When, on their voluntary submission to
Hannibal, they received his soldiers into winter quarters,[2044] the
pleasures [of the place] rendered the men so effeminate, that Hannibal
said, although conqueror, that he was in danger of the enemy, since his
soldiers were returned to him women, and no longer men. When the Romans
obtained the mastery,[2045] they inflicted on them numerous ills, and
ended by distributing their land by lot. [2046] At the present day they
are living in prosperity, and on friendly terms with the [Roman]
colonists, and preserve their ancient reputation, both in respect to the
size of their city and the numbers of their population. Beyond Campania
and the Samnites,[2047] and upon the Tyrrhenian Sea, dwells the nation
of the Picentini. This is a small off-shoot from the Picentini who dwell
near the Adriatic, and was transplanted by the Romans to the Posidoniate
Gulf,[2048] now called the Gulf of Pæstum. The city of Posidonia, which
is built about the middle of the gulf, is called Pæstum. [2049] The
Sybarites [when they founded the city[2050]] built the fortifications
close upon the sea, but the inhabitants removed higher up. In after
time[2051] the Leucani seized upon the city, but in their turn were
deprived of it by the Romans. [2052] It is rendered unhealthy by a
river[2053] [CAS. 251] which overflows the marshy districts in the
neighbourhood. Between the Sirenussæ and Posidonia[2054] is
Marcina,[2055] a city founded by the Tyrrheni, but inhabited by the
Samnites. [To go] from thence into Pompæa,[2056] through Nuceria,[2057]
[you cross] an isthmus of not more than 120 stadia. The Picentes extend
as far as the river Silaro,[2058] which separates their country on this
side from ancient Leucania. [2059] The water of this river is reported to
possess the singular property of petrifying any plant thrown into it,
preserving at the same time both the colour and form. [2060] Picentia was
formerly the capital of the Picentes; but they now dwell in villages,
having been ejected by the Romans[2061] for taking part with Hannibal.
Also, instead of doing military service, it has been decreed that they
shall be the public daily couriers and letter-carriers; [a penalty]
which for the same cause has been likewise inflicted on the Leucani and
Bruttii. To keep them in check, the Romans fortified Salernum, which is
a little above the sea. The distance from the Sirenussæ to the Silaro is
260 stadia.
BOOK VI.
ITALY.
SUMMARY.
The Sixth Book contains the remainder of Italy, and the regions
within the Adriatic, as far as Macedonia; likewise a description
of Apulia, Calabria, the country by the Ionian Gulf, together
with the adjacent islands, from Sicily to the Ceraunian
mountains, and on the other side as far as Carthage, and the
small islands lying near to it.
CHAPTER I.
1. After the mouth of the Silaro,[2062] is Leucania, and the temple of
Argive Juno, founded by Jason. Near to this, within 50 stadia, is
Posidonia. [2063] Sailing thence, towards the high sea, is the island of
Leucosia,[2064] at a little distance from the mainland. It bears the
name of one of the Sirens, who according to the mythology was cast up
here, after having been precipitated with her companions into the deep.
The promontory[2065] of the island projects opposite the
Sirenussæ,[2066] forming the bay of Posidonium. [2067] After having made
this cape there is another contiguous bay, on which is built the city
which the Phocæans called Hyela when they founded it, but others Ela
from a certain fountain. People in the present day call it Elea. It is
here that Parmenides and Zeno, the Pythagorean philosophers, were born.
And it is my opinion that through the instrumentality of those men, as
well as by previous good management, the government of that place was
well arranged, so that they successfully resisted the Leucani and the
Posidoniatæ, notwithstanding the smallness of their district and the
inferiority of their numbers. They are [CAS. 252] compelled, therefore,
on account of the barrenness of the soil, to apply to maritime trade
chiefly, to employ themselves in the salting of fish, and in such other
occupations. Antiochus[2068] says that when Phocea was taken by
Harpagus, the general of Cyrus, those who had the means embarked with
their families, and sailed under the conduct of Creontiades, first to
Cyrnos and Marseilles, but having been driven thence, they founded
Elea;[2069] the name of which some say is derived from the river
Elees. [2070] The city is distant about two hundred stadia from
Posidonia. After this city is the promontory of Palinurus. But in front
of the Eleatis are the Œnotrides, two islands[2071] having good
anchorage. [2072] And beyond Palinurus are the promontory, harbour, and
river of Pyxus;[2073] the three having the same name. This colony was
founded[2074] by Micythus, then governor of Messina in Sicily; but those
who were located here, except a few, abandoned the place. After Pyxus
are the gulf,[2075] the river,[2076] and the city[2077] of Laüs. This,
the last[2078] city of the Leucani, situate a little above the sea, is a
colony[2079] of the Sybarites, and is distant from Elea 400 stadia. The
whole circuit of Leucania, by sea is 650 stadia. Near to Laüs is seen
the tomb of Draco, one of the companions of Ulysses, and the oracular
response, given to the Italian Greeks, alludes to him:
“Some day, around the Dragon’s stony tomb,
A mighty multitude shall meet their doom. ”
For the Greeks of Italy, enticed by this prophecy, marched against Laüs
and were defeated by the Leucani. [2080]
2. Such, along the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, are the possessions of
the Leucani, which at first did not reach to the other sea;[2081] the
Greeks who dwelt on the Gulf of Tarentum possessed it. But before the
coming of the Greeks there were no Leucani, the Chones[2082] and Œnotri
possessed these territories. But when the Samnites had greatly
increased, and expelled the Chones and Œnotri, and driven the Leucani
into this region, while the Greeks possessed the sea-coast on both
sides as far as the straits, the Greeks and the Barbarians maintained a
lengthened contest. The tyrants of Sicily, and afterwards the
Carthaginians, at one time making war against the Romans, for the
acquisition of Sicily, and at another, for Italy itself, utterly wasted
all these regions. The Greeks, however, succeeded in depriving the
ancient inhabitants of a great portion of the midland country, beginning
even as early as the Trojan war; they increased in power, and extent of
territory, to such a degree, that they called this region and Sicily,
the _Magna Græcia_. But now the whole region, except Tarentum, Rhegium,
and Neapolis, has become barbarian,[2083] and belongs partly to the
Leucani and Bruttii, partly to the Campani; to these, however, only in
name, but truly to the Romans; for these people have become Roman.
However, it is incumbent on one who is treating of [CAS. 253] universal
geography, to speak both of things as they now are, and of some of those
that have been, and especially when they are important. Of the Leucani,
who border upon the Tuscan Sea, mention has already been made; those who
possess the midland regions dwell above the Gulf of Tarentum, but these,
as well as the Bruttii, and the Samnites themselves, the progenitors of
both, have been so maltreated [by the Romans], that it is difficult to
determine the boundaries of each people. The reason of this is, that
there no longer remains separately any of the institutions common to
these nations; and their peculiarities of language, of military and
civil costume, and such particulars, have passed away; besides, even
their places of abode, considered separately and apart, possess nothing
worthy of observation.
3. We will narrate in a general manner what we have gathered concerning
the Leucani, who dwell in the interior, without too much care in
distinguishing them from their neighbours, the Samnites. Petilia[2084]
is considered as the metropolis of the Leucani, and is still well
peopled. It owes its foundation to Philoctetes, who was compelled to
quit Melibœa on account of civil dissensions. Its position is so strong,
that the Samnites were formerly obliged to construct forts around it for
the defence of their territory. The ancient Crimissa, situated near
these places, was also founded by Philoctetes. Apollodorus, in his
description of the ships [of the Greeks], narrates concerning
Philoctetes, that, according to certain writers, this prince having
disembarked in the district of Crotona, settled on the promontory of
Crimissa, and built the city of Chone[2085] above it, from which the
inhabitants were called Chones; and that certain colonists being sent by
him into Sicily, to the neighbourhood of Eryx,[2086] with Ægestus the
Trojan, founded Ægesta. [2087] In the inland districts are also
Grumentum,[2088] Vertinæ,[2089] Calasarna,[2090] and other small
villages, reaching as far as Venusia,[2091] a city of some importance.
This, however, I consider to be a Samnite city, as are also those which
are next met with on going into Campania. Above the Thurii lies the
district called Tauriana. [2092] The Leucani are of Samnite origin.
Having vanquished the Posidoniates and their allies, they took
possession of their cities. At one time the institutions of the Leucani
were democratic, but during the wars a king was elected by those who
were possessed of chief authority: at the present time they are Roman.
4. The Bruttii occupy the remainder of the coast as far as the Strait of
Sicily, extending about 1350 stadia. Antiochus, in his treatise on
Italy, says that this district, which he intended to describe, was
called Italy, but that previously it had been called Œnotria. The
boundary which he assigns to it on the Tyrrhenian Sea, is the river
Lao,[2093] and on the Sea of Sicily Metapontium, the former of which we
have given as the boundary of the Bruttii. He describes Tarentum, which
is next to Metapontium,[2094] as beyond Italy, calling it Iapygian. He
also relates that, at a more ancient period, those who dwelt on this
side the isthmus, which lies next the Strait of Sicily, were the only
people who were called Œnotrians and Italians. The isthmus is 160 stadia
across between the two gulfs, namely, that of Hipponium,[2095] which
Antiochus called Napitinus, and [CAS. 255] that of Scylletium. [2096] The
circumnavigation of the peninsula, which is comprised between this
isthmus and the strait, is 2000 stadia. He says that afterwards the
names of Italy and of the Œnotrians were extended as far as Metapontium
and the Siritis; the Chones, a people of Œnotrian descent, and highly
civilized, inhabited these districts, and called their country Chone.
However, this author has written in a very loose and old-fashioned
manner, without giving any definite boundaries to the Leucani and
Bruttii. Now Leucania is situated on the Tyrrhenian and Sicilian Seas,
extending on one coast from the Silaro[2097] to the river Lao, and on
the other from Metapontium[2098] to Thurii. Along the continent it
stretches from the country of the Samnites, as far as the isthmus
between Thurii and Cerilli,[2099] near the Lao. This isthmus is 300
stadia[2100] across. Beyond are the Bruttii, who dwell on the peninsula;
in this is included another peninsula, which is bounded by the isthmus
between Scylletium[2101] and the Hipponiate gulf. [2102] The nation
received its appellation from the Leucani, for they call runaways
Bruttii, and they say that formerly they ran away from them when
employed as shepherds, and that afterwards their independence was
established through the weakness [of the Leucani], when Dion [of
Syracuse] was prosecuting a war against [the younger] Dionysius, and
fomented hostilities amongst all. [2103] This is all we shall remark as
to the Leucani and Bruttii.
5. From the Lao the first city is the Temesa[2104] of the Bruttii,
which at present is called Tempsa. It was founded by the Ausonians;
afterwards the Ætolians, under the command of Thoas, gained possession
of it. These were expelled by the Bruttii; Hannibal and the Romans have
overthrown the Bruttii. [2105] In the vicinity of Temesa is the Heroum of
Polites, one of the companions of Ulysses. It is surrounded by a thick
grove of wild olives. He was treacherously slain by the barbarians, and
became in consequence very wrathful, and his shade so tormented the
inhabitants that they submitted to pay him a tribute, according to the
direction of a certain oracle. Thus it became a proverb amongst them,
“Let no one offend the hero of Temesa,” for they said that [for a long
time he[2106]] had tormented them. But when the Epizephyrian Locrians
took the city, they feign that Euthymus the pugilist went out against
him, and having overcome him in fight, constrained him to free the
inhabitants from tribute. [2107] They say that the poet intended this
Temesa, and not the Tamassus[2108] in Cyprus, (for it is said that the
words are suitable to either,[2109]) when he sings,
“in quest of brass
To Temesa. ”[2110]
[CAS. 256] and certain copper-mines are pointed out near to the place,
which are now exhausted. Contiguous to it is Terina,[2111] which
Hannibal destroyed, when he found he could no longer retain it; at the
time when he took refuge in the country of the Bruttii. [2112] Next in
order comes Cosentia,[2113] the metropolis of the Bruttii. A little
above it is Pandosia, which is strongly fortified, before which
Alexander the Molossian king was overthrown. This prince was led astray
by the oracle of Dodona, which commanded him to avoid Acheron and
Pandosia;[2114] for places with names like these being pointed out in
Thesprotia, caused him to lose his life[2115] here. The position has
three summits, and the river Acheron flows by it. He was also mistaken
in another oracle,
“O Pandosia, thou three-topp’d hill,
Hereafter many people thou shalt kill;”
for he thought that it foreshowed the destruction of his enemies, and
not of his own people. They say that Pandosia[2116] was formerly the
residence of the Œnotrian kings. After Cosentia is Hipponium,[2117]
founded by the Locrians. [2118] The Romans took it from the Bruttii, who
were in possession of it at a subsequent period, and changed the name
into Vibo-Valentia. [2119] And because the meadows in its vicinity are
luxuriant and full of flowers, it is supposed that Proserpine came over
from Sicily to gather them, and from thence the custom among women of
this city, to gather flowers and plait garlands, prevailed to such an
extent, that they now think it shameful to wear purchased garlands at
the festivals. [2120] It also possesses a harbour[2121] made by
Agathocles,[2122] the tyrant of Sicily, when he was in possession of the
town. On sailing hence to the Portus Herculis,[2123] we come to the
point where the headlands of Italy, as they stretch towards the Strait
[of Sicily], begin to turn westward. In this voyage we pass Medma,[2124]
a city of the same Locrians,[2125] which bears the name of a copious
fountain, and possessing at a short distance a naval station, called
Emporium. [2126] Very nigh is the river Metauro,[2127] as also a naval
station bearing the same name. [2128] The Lipari Isles lie off this
coast; they are distant 200 stadia from the strait. They say that they
are the islands of Æolus, of whom the poet makes [CAS. 257] mention in
the Odyssey. [2129] They are seven in number, and are all easily
distinguished both from Sicily and the coast of the continent about
Medma. We will speak of them in particular when we describe Sicily.
After the river Metaurus, there is another Metaurus. [2130] Next in order
is Scyllæum, an elevated cliff nearly surrounded by the sea. But
connected with the mainland by a low isthmus easily accessible on either
side, which Anaxilaus, the tyrant of Rhegium, fortified against the
Tyrrheni, and formed a commodious haven, and thus prevented the pirates
from passing through the strait. Next to the Scyllæan promontory was
that of Cænys, distant from Medma 250 stadia. It is the last headland,
and forms the narrowest part of the Strait [of Sicily], being opposite
to Cape Pelorus on the Sicilian side, which is one of the three points
which give to that island the form of a triangle. Its aspect is towards
the rising of the sun in summer, whilst that of Cænys looks towards the
west. Indeed they both seem to have diverged from the general line of
coast in order to stand out opposite each other. [2131] From Cænys to the
Posidonium[2132] [and] the Columna Rheginorum,[2133] the narrow part of
the strait stretches as much as 6 stadia, the shortest passage across
the strait is a little more. From the Columna [Rheginorum] to Rhegium,
where the strait begins to widen, is a hundred [stadia] as you advance
in a direction towards the exterior and eastern sea, which is called the
sea of Sicily.
6. Rhegium[2134] was founded by certain Chalcidenses, who, as they say,
were decimated as an offering to Apollo in a time of scarcity, by order
of an oracle, and afterwards removed hither from Delphi, taking with
them certain others from home. As Antiochus says, the Zanclæans sent for
the Chalcidenses, and appointed Antimnestus chief over them. Certain
fugitives of the Messenians of Peloponnesus accompanied this colony, who
had been compelled to fly by those who refused to give satisfaction to
the Lacedæmonians for the violation[2135] of the virgins at Limnæ, whom
they had abused when attending the religious festival, and had slain
those who assisted them. However when the fugitives had removed to
Macistus, they sent to the oracle complaining against Apollo and Diana
for suffering these things to happen notwithstanding they so greatly
honoured them, and inquiring how the devoted might be saved. Apollo
commanded to send them with the Chalcidenses to Rhegium, and to be
grateful, therefore, to his sister Diana for that they were not lost but
saved, as they should not be destroyed with their country, which would
be annihilated shortly after by the Spartans. [2136] They acted in
accordance with the oracle, and thus it was that the rulers of the
Rhegini were all of Messenian race until the time of Anaxilaus.
Antiochus asserts that anciently the whole of this district was
inhabited by Sicilians and Morgetes; and that they [CAS. 258] afterwards
passed into Sicily when they were expelled by the Œnotri. Some say that
Morgantium[2137] thus received its name from the Morgetes. But the city
of the Rhegini became very powerful, and possessed many dependent
settlements. It has always been a bulwark for us against the island [of
Sicily], and, indeed, has recently served to that purpose when Sextus
Pompeius alienated Sicily. [2138] It was called Rhegium either, as
Æschylus says, because of the convulsion which had taken place in this
region; for Sicily was broken from the continent by earthquakes,
“Whence it is called Rhegium. ”[2139]
Others,[2140] as well as he, have affirmed the same thing, and adduce as
an evidence that which is observed about Ætna, and the appearances seen
in other parts of Sicily, the Lipari and neighbouring islands, and even
in the Pithecussæ, with the whole coast beyond them, which prove that it
was not unlikely that this convulsion had taken place. But now these
mouths being opened, through which the fire is drawn up, and the ardent
masses and water poured out, they say that the land in the neighbourhood
of the Strait of Sicily rarely suffers from the effects of earthquakes;
but formerly all the passages to the surface being blocked up, the fire
which was smouldering beneath the earth, together with the vapour,
occasioned terrible earthquakes, and the regions, being disturbed by the
force of the pent-up winds, sometimes gave way, and being rent received
the sea, which flowed in from either side; and thus were formed both
this strait and the sea which surrounds the other islands in the
neighbourhood. For Prochyta[2141] and the Pithecussæ, as well as
Capreæ, Leucosia, the Sirenes, and the Œnotrides, are but so many
detached fragments from the continent, but other islands have risen from
the bottom of the sea, a circumstance which frequently occurs in many
places; for it is more reasonable to think that the islands in the midst
of the sea have been raised up from the bottom, and that those which lie
off headlands and are separated merely by a strait were broken off from
them. Still it is beside our purpose to investigate thoroughly whether
the name were given to the city for these causes, or whether it were
named by the Samnites from the Latin word regium, which signifies royal,
on account of its importance,[2142] for their chieftains participated in
the privileges of citizenship with the Romans, and generally used the
Latin language. But Dionysius (the elder), having been treated with
contempt by them, destroyed the illustrious city which had founded many
towns and produced many distinguished characters, whether statesmen or
men of letters,[2143] for when he sought a consort from their city, they
offered him the hangman’s daughter;[2144] but his son (Dionysius the
younger) partly restored it,[2145] and called it Phœbia. During the war
with Pyrrhus, a body of Campanians destroyed most of the citizens
against the faith of treaties,[2146] and a little [CAS. 259] before the
Marsic or social war, earthquakes destroyed most of the towns;[2147] but
after Augustus Cæsar had driven Sextus Pompeius out of Sicily, when he
saw that the city was deficient of inhabitants, he appointed certain of
those who accompanied the expedition to reside there, and it is now
tolerably well peopled. [2148]
7. Sailing 50 stadia from Rhegium towards the east, we meet the cape
called Leucopetra, from the colour of the rock, where they say the range
of the Apennines terminates. [2149] Further on is Heraclæum.
[2150] It is
the last promontory, and looks towards the south; for presently on
doubling it the course takes a south-western direction as far as the
promontory of Iapygia,[2151] then it runs towards the north more and
more, and towards the west along the Ionian gulf. After the Herculeum
Promontorium is the headland of Locris, which is called
Zephyrium,[2152] possessing a haven exposed to the west winds, whence is
derived its name. Then is the state of the Locri Epizephyrii, a colony
of Locrians transported by Evanthes from the Crissæan gulf, shortly
after the foundation of Crotona and Syracuse. [2153] Ephorus was not
correct in stating that they were a colony of the Locri Opuntii. [2154]
They remained at first during three or four years at Cape Zephyrium;
afterwards they removed their city, with the assistance of certain
Syracusans who dwelt amongst them. There is also a fountain called
Locria in the place where the Locri first took up their abode. From
Rhegium to the Locri there are 600 stadia. The city is built on a
height, which they call Esopis. [2155]
8. The Locri are believed to have been the first who committed their
laws to writing, but after they had enjoyed the advantage of these good
laws for a very considerable time, Dionysius [the younger], having been
expelled[2156] from Syracuse, found means to abuse them in a most
abominable manner, for he, entering into a private chamber where certain
young brides had been adorned for their nuptials, violated them; he also
gathered the most beautiful virgins to his revels, and having liberated
doves with uncut wings, commanded the young women to chase them round
the apartment in a state of perfect nudity, while on some he bound
sandals of unequal height, one being high and the other low, in order to
make their appearance in the pursuit the more unseemly. However he paid
dearly for this, for having returned to Sicily to resume his government,
the Locri overpowered the guard he had left in their city, freed
themselves, and obtained possession of his wife and children; there were
two of his daughters, and his second son who had already attained the
age of manhood; the eldest, however, called Apollocrates, accompanied
his father in the expedition. And although Dionysius himself entreated
them earnestly, as did also the Tarentines, to deliver the prisoners for
whatever ransom they should name, they remained inexorable, and endured
a siege and the wasting of their country, that they might vent their
rage on his daughters. After having exposed them to the most shameful
[CAS. 260] outrages, they strangled them, burnt their bodies, pounded
their bones, and cast them into the sea. [2157] Ephorus in speaking of
the written law of the Locri, which Zaleucus had most judiciously
selected from the Cretan, Lacedæmonian, and Areopagite codes, says that
Zaleucus was the first to establish this principle, that whereas
formerly lawgivers had left it to the judges to award the punishments
for the several offences, he established a certain penalty in his laws,
thinking that the minds of the judges would not be led to attach the
same penalties for the same transgressions, which course he considered
expedient. He praises him also for having simplified the law of
contracts. [He says also] that the Thurians, being desirous to improve
[the code of Zaleucus] more than the Locri had done, became more
celebrated, but were less judicious. [2158] For that state is not
regulated by the best government, where they guard against all manner of
deceit by their laws, but that wherein they abide by laws simply framed.
Plato also has observed that where there are many laws, there will be
law-suits and evil lives, in the same way as, where there are many
physicians, there it is likely there is much sickness.
9. There is a certain singular circumstance, respecting grasshoppers,
worthy of note. The river Alece[2159] divides Rhegium from Locris,
flowing through a deep ravine; those which are in the territory of the
Locrians sing, but those on the other side are silent; and it is thought
probable that this is caused by the region being woody, and their
membranes being softened by dew do not produce sound; but those on the
Locrian side being sunned, are dry and horny, so that the sound is
easily produced by them. The statue of Eunomus the harper having a
grasshopper seated on his harp is shown at Locri. Timæus says, that this
Eunomus was once contending at the Pythian games and disputed with
Aristo of Rhegium for the prize, and that Aristo declared that the
people of Delphi ought to take part with him, because his ancestors
were consecrated to the god, and sent out to found the colony; but
Eunomus said that they could have no claim to contend for melody with
any one, because that among them even the grasshoppers, who are the most
gifted of all creatures, were mute. Nevertheless Aristo was applauded,
and had hopes of obtaining the victory, but Eunomus was declared
victorious, and dedicated the said statue in his country, because that
at the contest one of the chords of his harp having broken, a
grasshopper taking his stand on it supplied the sound. Above these towns
the Bruttii possess the interior, and there is the city Mamertium,[2160]
and the forest which they call Sila, which produces the best or Bruttian
pitch. [2161] It yields fine trees, and is well watered, extending over a
length of 700 stadia.
10. After the Locri is the [river] Sagras,[2162] in the feminine gender,
on which is situated the altar of the Dioscuri, near which ten thousand
Locrians, with a small body of Rhegians gained a victory over 130,000
Crotoniatæ, whence they say arose the proverb applied to incredulous
people, “It is more true than the victory of the Sagras. ” Some people
add to the mysterious account, that it was announced the same day at the
Olympic games to the people there assembled, and this speedy news was
found perfectly correct. They say that this mischance was so unfortunate
an event to the Crotoniatæ, that after it they did not long remain as a
nation, on account [CAS. 261] of the number of citizens who fell in the
battle. After the Sagras is Caulonia, which was at first called Aulonia,
from the αὐλὼν, or valley, in which it was situated; but it is deserted,
for its former possessors were driven out by the barbarians,[2163] and
have taken refuge in Sicily, and there founded [another] Caulonia. [2164]
After this is Scylletium,[2165] a colony of the Athenians, who set out
under Menestheus;[2166] it is now called Scylacium. [2167] Dionysius [the
elder] allotted a portion of it to the Locri, whilst it was in the
possession of the Crotoniatæ. [2168] The Scylleticus Sinus received its
name from this city. It together with the Hipponiates Sinus forms the
isthmus which we have mentioned above. [2169] Dionysius[2170] undertook
to build a wall across the isthmus, at the time he was carrying on war
against the Leucani, assigning as a pretext that it would afford
security to the inhabitants of the peninsula from the inroads of the
barbarians dwelling beyond it; but in truth his intention was to cut off
the communication of the Greeks with each other, and to have the greater
power over those who dwelt within the peninsula, but those who dwelt
without[2171] assembled and prevented the undertaking.
11. After Scylletium is the region of Crotona, and the Iapygum tria
Promontoria,[2172] and after these the Lacinium,[2173] sacred to Juno,
formerly rich and filled with many offerings. But the distances have not
been accurately stated. We can only say that in a general way Polybius
reckons 2300[2174] stadia from the strait[2175] to Lacinium,[2176] and
700 stadia from Lacinium to the Iapygian promontory. They call this the
entrance of the Gulf of Taranto. The extent of the gulf is considerable,
being 240 miles along the shore. As the chorographer says . . . of 380 . . .
to a light person, Artemidorus: wanting also by so many . . . of the
breadth of the mouth of the gulf. [2177] Its aspect looks towards the
rising of the sun in winter. [2178] It commenced from Lacinium, for
presently on doubling the cape you come to where the Greek cities
formerly stood; now they no longer exist, with the exception of
Tarentum. But on account of the estimation in which certain of them were
held, it is worth while to speak of them somewhat in detail.
12. The first is Crotona, 150 stadia from Lacinium and the river [CAS.
262] Esaro;[2179] there is also a haven[2180] there, and another river
Nieto,[2181] the name whereof is said to be derived from the following
circumstance—they say that certain of the Greeks who had wandered from
the fleet which had besieged Troy, having arrived in this place,
disembarked to take a survey of the country, and that the Trojan women
who accompanied them in the fleet, having observed the absence of the
men, and being wearied with a toilsome voyage, set fire to the fleet, so
that they were compelled to abide, when they saw, in addition [to the
loss of their ships], that the soil was very fertile. Many others
arriving soon after, and being desirous to live near their
fellow-countrymen, founded several settlements. Most of them derived
their names from the Trojans, and the river Nieto received its
appellation from the destruction[2182] [of the ships]. But Antiochus
relates that an oracle having commanded the Greeks to found Crotona,
Myscellus went forth to view the place, and having seen Sybaris already
built on a neighbouring river of the same name, thought it better, and
returned to the god to ask if he might be permitted to settle in that,
instead of the other; but that the oracle answered, applying to him an
epithet noticing his defective stature, (for Myscellus was somewhat
crook-backed,)
“O short-backed Myscellus, whilst seeking somewhat else of thyself,
Thou pursuest only misfortune: it is right to accept that which is
proffered to thee:”[2183]
and that he returned and built Crotona, wherein he was assisted by
Archias,[2184] the founder of Syracuse, who happened to touch at Crotona
by chance, as he was proceeding to the colony of the Syracusans. The
Iapyges possessed Crotona before this time,[2185] as Ephorus relates.
The city cultivated martial discipline and athletic exercises to a
great extent, and in one of the Olympic games all the seven wrestlers,
who obtained the palm in the stadium, were Crotoniatæ; whence, it seems,
the saying arose that the last wrestler of Crotona was the first of the
other Greeks, and hence they say also is the origin of the expression,
“more salubrious than Crotona,” as instancing a place which had
something to show, in the number of wrestlers which it produced, as a
proof of its salubrity and the robust frame of body which it was capable
of rearing. Thus it had many victors in the Olympic games, although it
cannot be reckoned to have been long inhabited on account of the vast
destruction of its citizens, who fell at the battle of the Sagras. Its
celebrity too was not a little spread by the number of Pythagoreans who
resided there, and Milo,[2186] who was the most renowned of wrestlers,
and lived in terms of intimacy with Pythagoras, who abode long in this
city. They relate that at a banquet of the philosophers, when one of the
pillars in the hall gave way, Milo sustained the ceiling while they all
escaped, and afterwards saved himself. It is likely that, trusting to
the same strength, he met his fate as related by some, for whilst making
his way through a thick wood, he strayed considerably out of the path,
when finding a great log with wedges in it, he thrust both his hands and
feet into the fissure, intending to split it completely, but was only
able to force it enough to let the wedges fall out, when the gaping log
presently closed on him, and he, being taken as in a snare, was devoured
by wild beasts.
13. Beyond this, at the distance of 200 stadia, is situated
Sybaris,[2187] a colony settled by the Achæans, between the two [CAS.
263] rivers Crati[2188] and Sybaris. [2189] Its founder was Is. . . . [2190]
the Helicean. [2191] So great was the prosperity enjoyed by this city
anciently, that it held dominion over four neighbouring people and
twenty-five towns; in the war with the Crotoniatæ it brought into the
field 300,000 men, and occupied a circuit of 50 stadia on the Crati. But
on account of the arrogance and turbulence of its citizens, it was
deprived of all its prosperity by the Crotoniatæ in 70[2192] days, who
took the city, and turning the waters of the river [Crati], overwhelmed
it with an inundation. [2193] Some time after, a few who had escaped came
together and inhabited the site of their former city, but in time they
were dispossessed by the Athenians[2194] and other Greeks, who came and
settled amongst them, but they despised and subjugated them, and removed
the city to a neighbouring place, calling its name Thurii, from a
fountain of that name. The water of the river Sybaris has the peculiar
property of making the horses which drink it shy,[2195] for which reason
they keep their horses away from the river. The Crati turns the hair of
those who bathe in it yellow, and sometimes white, but has been found
salutary for the cure of many disorders. Thurii, after having flourished
for a long time, became a continual prey to the aggressions of the
Leucani,[2196] and afterwards the Tarentini troubling them, they
appealed to the Romans for succour, who, in course of time, sent a
colony[2197] when it was nearly deserted, and changed the name of the
city to Copiæ. [2198]
14. After Thurii is Lagaria,[2199] a garrison fort; it was originally
settled by Epeius[2200] and the Phocenses; hence is derived the
Lagaritan wine, sweet and delicate, and much recommended by the
physicians, as is likewise the Thurian wine, which is reckoned among the
best. Then comes the city of Heraclea,[2201] a little way from the sea,
and two navigable rivers, the Agri[2202] and the Sinno,[2203] on which
was the city Siris, founded by a Trojan colony, but in course of time,
when Heraclea was peopled with the citizens of Siris by the Tarentini,
it became the harbour of Heraclea. Its distance from Heraclea was 24
stadia, and from Thurii about 330. [2204] They point out the statue of
the Trojan Minerva, which is erected there, as a proof of its
colonization by the Trojans. They also relate as a miracle how the
statue closed its eyes when the suppliants, who had fled for sanctuary
to her shrine, were dragged away by the Ionians after they had taken the
city;[2205] they say that these Ionians came to settle here, when they
fled from the yoke of the Lydians, and took the town of the
Trojans[2206] by force, calling its name Polieum. They show, too, at the
present time [CAS. 264] the statue that closes its eyes. It must,
however, require a good courage, not to assert that it appeared to have
closed its eyes, as that at Troy turned away its eyes from beholding the
violence offered to Cassandra, but to show it in the act of winking:—but
it is much more daring to make so many statues of the Minerva rescued
from Ilium, as those who describe them affirm, for there is a Minerva
said to be Trojan in the sense of having been rescued from that city,
not only at Siris, but at Rome, at Lavinium, and at Luceria. The scene,
too, of the daring of the Trojan female captives is assigned to many
different places and appears incredible, although it is by no means
impossible. There are some who say that Siris, and also that Sybaris on
the Trionto,[2207] were founded by the Rhodians. Antiochus says that the
site of Siris having become the subject of a contention between the
Tarentini and the Thurii, on that occasion commanded by Cleandridas the
general who had been banished from Lacedæmon, the two people came to a
composition, and agreed to inhabit it in common, but that the
colony[2208] should be considered as Tarentine; however, at a subsequent
period both the name and the locality were changed, and it was called
Heraclea. [2209]
15. Next in order is Metapontium,[2210] at a distance of 140 stadia from
the sea-port of Heraclea. It is said to be a settlement of the Pylians
at the time of their return from Ilium under Nestor; their success in
agriculture was so great, that it is said they offered at Delphi a
golden harvest:[2211] they adduce, as a proof of this foundation, the
offerings of the dead sacrificed periodically to the Neleïdæ;[2212] but
it was destroyed by the Samnites. [2213] Antiochus says that certain
Achæans, who had been sent for by the Achæans of Sybaris, settled in
this place when it had been desolated; he adds that these were sent for
on account of the hatred of the Achæans to the Tarentini, who had
originally migrated from Laconia, in order to prevent their seizing upon
the place which lay adjacent to them. Of the two cities, viz.
Metapontium which was situated the nearer, [and Siris the
further,[2214]] from Tarentum, the new comers preferred to occupy
Metapontium. This choice was suggested by the Sybarites, because, if
they should make good their settlement there, they would also possess
Siris, but if they were to turn to Siris, Metapontium would be annexed
to the territory of the Tarentines which was conterminous. But after
being engaged in war with the Tarentini and the Œnotrians, who dwelt
beyond them, they came to an agreement, securing to them a portion of
land, which should constitute the boundary between Italy, as it then
existed, and Iapygia. This, too, is the locality which tradition assigns
to the adventures of Metapontus and the captive Melanippe, and her son
Bœotus. But Antiochus is of opinion that the city Metapontium was
originally called Metabum, and that its name was altered at a subsequent
period; and that Melanippe was not entertained here but at Dius, and
thinks that the heroum of Metabus as well as the testimony of the poet
Asius, who says that
“The beautiful Melanippe, in the halls of Dius, bare Bœotus,”
afford sufficient proof that Melanippe was led to Dius and not to
Metabum. Ephorus says that Daulius, the tyrant of Crissa[2215] near
Delphi, was the founder of Metapontium. There is, however, another
tradition, that Leucippus was sent by the Achæans to help to found the
colony, and having asked permission of the Tarentini to have the place
for a day and a night, would not give it up, replying by day to those
who [CAS. 265] asked it of him, that he had asked and obtained it till
the following night, and when asked by night, he said that he held it
till the coming day.
Next adjoining is Tarentum and Iapygia, which we will describe when we
shall have first gone through the islands which lie off Italy, according
to our original purpose; for we have always given the adjacent islands
with every nation we have hitherto described, and since we have gone
through Œnotria, which only, the people of ancient times named Italy, we
feel justified in keeping to the same arrangement, and shall pass on to
Sicily and the surrounding islands.
CHAPTER II.
1. Sicily is triangular in form, and on this account was at first called
Trinacria, but afterwards the name was softened and it was changed into
Thrinacia. [2216] Three low headlands bound the figure: Pelorias is the
name of that towards Cænys and the Columna Rheginorum which forms the
strait; Pachynus[2217] is that which stretches towards the east, and is
washed by the Sea of Sicily, looking towards the Peloponnesus and in the
direction of the passage to Crete; the third is Lilybæum,[2218] and is
next to Africa, looking towards that region and the setting of the sun
in winter. [2219] Of the sides which these three headlands bound, two are
somewhat concave, while the third is slightly convex, it runs from
Lilybæum to Pelorias, and is the longest, being, as Posidonius has said,
1700 stadia adding further twenty. Of the others, that extending to
Pachynus from Lilybæum is the longer, while the shortest faces the
Strait and Italy, extending from Pelorias to Pachynus, being about 1120
or 1130 stadia. Posidonius shows that the circumference is 4400 stadia,
but in the Chorography the distances are declared to exceed the above
numbers, being severally reckoned in miles. Thus from Cape Pelorias to
Mylæ,[2220] 25 miles; from Mylæ to Tyndaris,[2221] 25; thence to
Agathyrnum,[2222] 30; from Agathyrnum to Alæsa,[2223] 30; from Alæsa to
Cephalœdium,[2224] 30; these are but insignificant places; from
Cephalœdium to the river Himera,[2225] which runs through the midst of
Sicily, 18; from thence to Panormus,[2226] 35; [thence] to the
Emporium[2227] of the Ægestani, 32; leaving to Lilybæum[2228] a distance
of 38; thence having doubled the Cape and coasting the adjacent side to
Heracleum,[2229] 75; and to the Emporium[2230] of the Agrigentini, 20;
and to[2231] [CAS. 266] Camarina,[2232] another 20; then to Pachynus,
50; thence again along the third side to Syracuse, 36;[2233] from
Syracuse to Catana, 60; then to Tauromenium,[2234] 33; thence to
Messana, 30. [2235] Thus on foot[2236] from Pachynus to Pelorias we have
168 [miles], and from Messana[2237] to [Cape] Lilybæum, on the Via
Valeria,[2238] we have 235[2239] [miles]. Some have estimated the
circuit in a more simple way, as Ephorus, who says that the compass of
the island by sea takes five days and nights. Posidonius attempts to
determine the situation of the island by climata,[2240] and places
Pelorias to the north, Lilybæum to the south, and Pachynus to the east.
We however consider that of necessity all climata are set out in the
manner of a parallelogram, but that districts portrayed as triangles,
and especially such triangles as are scalene,[2241] and whereof no one
side lies parallel to a side of the parallelogram, cannot in any way be
assimilated to climata on account of their obliquity. However, we must
allow, that in treating of Sicily, Pelorias, which lies to the south of
Italy, may well be called the most northern of the three angles, so that
we say that the line which joins it[2242] to Pachynus faces the east but
looks towards the north. [2243] Now this line [of coast] will make the
side next the Strait [of Messina], and it must have a slight inclination
towards the winter sunrise;[2244] for thus the shore slightly changes
its direction as you travel from Catana towards Syracuse and Pachynus.
Now the transit from Pachynus to the mouth of the Alpheus[2245] is 4000
stadia. But when Artemidorus says that from Pachynus to Tænarum[2246] it
is 4600, and from the Alpheus to the Pamisus is 1130 stadia,[2247] he
appears to me to lie open to the objection of having given distances
which do not accord with the 4000 stadia from Pachynus to the Alpheus.
The line run from Pachynus to Lilybæum (which is much to the west of
Pelorias) is considerably diverged from the south towards the west,
having at the same time an aspect looking towards the east and towards
the south. [2248] On one side it is washed by the sea of Sicily, and on
the other by the Libyan Sea, extending from Carthage to the Syrtes. The
shortest run is 1500 stadia from Lilybæum to the coast of Africa about
Carthage; and, according to report, a certain very sharp-sighted
person,[2249] placed on a watch-tower, announced to the Carthaginians
besieged in Lilybæum the number of the ships which were leaving
Carthage. And from Lilybæum to Pelorias the side must necessarily
incline towards the east, and look in a direction towards the west and
north, having Italy to the north, and the Tyrrhenian Sea with the
islands of Æolus to the west. [2250]
2. The cities situated on the side which forms the Strait are, first
Messana, then Tauromenium,[2251] Catana, and Syracuse; between Catana
and Syracuse were the ruined cities Naxos[2252] and Megara,[2253]
situated where the rivers descending from Ætna fall into the sea, and
afford good accommodation for shipping. Here is also the promontory of
Xiphonia. They say that Ephorus founded these first cities of the Greeks
in Sicily in [CAS. 267] the tenth generation from the Trojan war. For
those who preceded him were so terrified by the piratical customs of the
Tyrrheni, and the ferocity of the savages of the neighbourhood, that
they did not even venture to resort thither for the purposes of
commerce. Theocles the Athenian, however, having been driven to Sicily
by storms, observed both the weakness of the inhabitants and the
excellence of the soil. On his return home, he was unable to persuade
the Athenians to make any attempt, but he collected a numerous band of
Chalcidians in Eubœa, with some Ionians and Dorians, whereof the most
part were Megarenses, and sailed. The Chalcidians founded Naxos, and the
Dorians Megara, which was at first called Hybla. These cities no longer
exist, but the name of Hybla survives on account of the Hyblæan honey.
3. The first of the cities which at present remain on the aforesaid side
is Messana, built at the head of the gulf of Pelorias, which is curved
very considerably towards the east, and forms a bay. The passage across
to Rhegium[2254] is 60 stadia, but the distance to the Columna
Rheginorum is much less. It was from a colony of the Messenians of the
Peloponnesus that it was named Messana, having been originally called
Zancle, on account of the great inequality of the coast (for anything
irregular was termed ζάγκλιον). [2255] It was originally founded by the
people of Naxos near Catana. Afterwards the Mamertini, a tribe of
Campanians, took possession of it. [2256] The Romans, in the war in
Sicily against the Carthaginians, used it as an arsenal. [2257] Still
more recently,[2258] Sextus Pompeius assembled his fleet in it, to
contend against Augustus Cæsar; and when he relinquished the island, he
took ship from thence. [2259] Charybdis[2260] is pointed out at a short
distance from the city in the Strait, an immense gulf, into which the
back currents of the Strait frequently impel ships, carrying them down
with a whirl and the violence of the eddy. When they are swallowed down
and shattered, the wrecks are cast by the stream on the shore of
Tauromenia,[2261] which they call, on account of this kind of
accumulation, the dunghill. [2262] So greatly have the Mamertini
prevailed over the Messenians, that they have by degrees wrested the
city from them. The inhabitants generally are rather called Mamertini
than Messenians. The district abounds in wine, which we do not call
Messenian, but Mamertinian: it vies with the best produced in
Italy. [2263] The city is well peopled, but Catana is more populous,
which has been colonized by the Romans. [2264] Tauromenium is less
populous than either. Catana was founded by people from Naxos, and
Tauromenium by the Zanclæans of Hybla,[2265] but Catana was deprived of
its original inhabitants when Hiero, the tyrant of Syracuse, introduced
others, and called it by the name of Ætna instead of Catana. It is of
this that Pindar says he was the founder, when he sings,
“Thou understandest what I say, O father, that bearest the same name
with the splendid holy sacrifices, thou founder of Ætna. ”[2266]
But on the death of Hiero,[2267] the Catanæans returned and expelled the
new inhabitants, and demolished the mausoleum of the tyrant. The
Ætnæans, compelled to retire,[2268] established themselves on a hilly
district of Ætna, called Innesa,[2269] and called the place Ætna. It is
distant from Catana about 80 stadia. They still acknowledged Hiero as
their founder.
Ætna lies the highest of any part of Catana, and participates the most
in the inconveniences occasioned by the mouths of the volcano, for the
streams of lava flowing down in Catanæa[2270] pass through it first. It
was here that Amphinomus [CAS. 269] and Anapias set the example of
filial piety so greatly celebrated, for they, seizing their parents,
carried them on their shoulders[2271] to a place of safety from the
impending ruin; for whenever, as Posidonius relates, there is an
eruption of the mountain the fields of the Catanæans are buried to a
great depth. However, after the burning ashes have occasioned a
temporary damage, they fertilize the country for future seasons, and
render the soil good for the vine and very strong for other produce, the
neighbouring districts not being equally adapted to the produce of wine.
They say that the roots which the districts covered with these ashes
produce, are so good for fattening sheep, that they are sometimes
suffocated, wherefore they bleed them in the ear every four or five
days,[2272] in the same way as we have related a like practice at
Erythia. When the stream of lava cools[2273] it covers the surface of
the earth with stone to a considerable depth, so that those who wish to
uncover the original surface are obliged to hew away the stone as in a
quarry. For the stone is liquefied in the craters and then thrown up.
That which is cast forth from the top is like a black moist clay and
flows down the hill-sides, then congealing it becomes mill-stone,
preserving the same colour it had while fluid. The ashes of the stones
which are burnt are like what would be produced by wood, and as rue
thrives on wood ashes, so there is probably some quality in the ashes of
Ætna which is appropriate to the vine.
4. Archias, sailing from Corinth, founded Syracuse about the same
period[2274] that Naxos and Megara were built. They say that Myscellus
and Archias having repaired to Delphi at the same time to consult the
oracle, the god demanded whether they would choose wealth or health,
when Archias preferred wealth and Myscellus health, upon which the
oracle assigned Syracuse to the former to found, and Crotona to the
latter. And certainly, in like manner as it fell out that the Crotoniatæ
should inhabit a state so notable for salubrity as we have
described,[2275] so such great riches have accrued to the Syracusans
that their name has been embodied in the proverb applied to those who
have too great wealth, viz. that they have not yet attained to a tithe
of the riches of the Syracusans. While Archias was on his voyage to
Sicily, he left Chersicrates, a chief of the race of the
Heracleidæ,[2276] with a part of the expedition to settle the island now
called Corcyra,[2277] but anciently called Scheria, and he, having
expelled the Liburni who possessed it, established his colony in the
island. Archias, pursuing his route, met with certain Dorians at
Zephyrium,[2278] come from Sicily, and who had quitted the company of
those who had founded Megara; these he took with him, and in conjunction
with them founded Syracuse. The city flourished on account of the
fertility[2279] of the country and the convenience of the harbours, the
citizens became great rulers; while under tyrants themselves, they
domineered over the other states [of Sicily], and when freed from
despotism, they set at liberty such as had been enslaved by the
barbarians: of these barbarians some were the aboriginal inhabitants of
the island, while others had come across from the continent. The Greeks
suffered none of the barbarians to approach the shore, although they
were not able to expel them entirely from the interior, for the Siculi,
Sicani,[2280] Morgetes, and some others,[2281] still inhabit the island
to the present day, amongst whom also were the Iberians, who, as Ephorus
relates, were [CAS. 270] the first of the barbarians that are
considered to have been settlers in Sicily. It seems probable that
Morgantium[2282] was founded by the Morgetes. Formerly it was a city,
but now it is not. When the Carthaginians[2283] endeavoured to gain
possession of the island they continually harassed both the Greeks and
the barbarians, but the Syracusans withstood them; at a later period
the Romans expelled the Carthaginians and took Syracuse after a long
siege. [2284] And [Sextus] Pompeius, having destroyed Syracuse in the
same way as he had done by the other cities,[2285] Augustus Cæsar in
our own times sent thither a colony, and to a great extent restored
it to its former importance, for anciently it consisted of five
towns[2286] enclosed by a wall of 180[2287] stadia, but there being
no great need that it should fill this extensive circle, he thought
it expedient to fortify in a better way the thickly inhabited portion
lying next the island of Ortygia, the circumference of which by itself
equals that of an important city. Ortygia is connected to the mainland
by a bridge, and [boasts of] the fountain Arethusa, which springs in
such abundance as to form a river at once, and flows into the sea. They
say that it is the river Alpheus[2288] which rises in the Peloponnesus,
and that it flows through the land beneath the sea[2289] to the place
where the Arethusa rises and flows into the sea. Some such proofs as
these are given in support of the fact. A certain chalice having fallen
into the river at Olympia was cast up by the springs of Arethusa; the
fountain too is troubled by the sacrifices of oxen at Olympia. And
Pindar, following such reports, thus sings,
“Ortygia, revered place of reappearing[2290] of the Alpheus,
The offset of renowned Syracuse. ”[2291]
Timæus[2292] the historian advances these accounts in like manner with
Pindar. Undoubtedly if before reaching the sea the Alpheus were to fall
into some chasm,[2293] there would be a probability that it continued
its course from thence to Sicily, preserving its potable water unmixed
with the sea; but since the mouth of the river manifestly falls into the
sea, and there does not appear any opening in the bed of the sea there,
which would be capable of imbibing the waters of the river, (although
even if there were they could not remain perfectly fresh, still it might
be possible to retain much of the character of fresh water, if they were
presently to be swallowed down into a passage running below the earth
which forms the bed of the sea,) it is altogether impossible; and this
the water of Arethusa clearly proves, being perfectly fit for beverage;
but [CAS. 271] that the flow of the river should remain compact through
so long a course, not mixing with the sea until it should fall into the
fancied channel, is entirely visionary; for we can scarcely credit it of
the Rhone, the body of the waters of which remains compact during its
passage through the lake, and preserves a visible course, but in that
instance both the distance is short and the lake is not agitated by
waves like the sea, but in this case of the Alpheus,[2294] where there
are great storms and the waters are tossed with violence, the
supposition is by no means worthy of attention. The fable of the chalice
being carried over is likewise a mere fabrication, for it is not
calculated for transfer, nor is it by any means probable it should be
washed away so far, nor yet by such difficult passages. Many rivers,
however, and in many parts of the world, flow beneath the earth, but
none for so great a distance. —Still, although there may be no
impossibility in this circumstance, yet the above-mentioned accounts are
altogether impossible, and almost as absurd as the fable related of the
Inachus: this river, as Sophocles[2295] feigns,
“Flowing from the heights of Pindus and Lacmus, passes from the
country of the Perrhœbi[2296] to that of the Amphilochi[2297] and
the Acarnanians, and mingles its waters with the Achelous:”[2298]
and further on [he says],
“Thence to Argos, cutting through the waves, it comes to the
territory of Lyrceius. ”
Those who would have the river Inopus to be a branch of the Nile flowing
to Delos, exaggerate this kind of marvel to the utmost. Zoïlus the
rhetorician, in his Eulogium of the people of Tenedos, says that the
river Alpheus flows from Tenedos: yet this is the man who blames Homer
for fabulous writing. Ibycus also says that the Asopus, a river of
Sicyon,[2299] flows from Phrygia. Hecatæus is more rational, who says
that the Inachus of the Amphilochi, which flows from Mount Lacmus, from
whence also the Æas[2300] descends, was distinct from the river of like
name in Argolis, and was so named after Amphilochus, from whom likewise
the city of Argos was denominated Amphilochian. He says further, that
this river falls into the Achelous, and that the Æas flows to
Apollonia[2301] towards the west. On each side of the island there is an
extensive harbour; the extent of the larger one is 80[2302] stadia.
three stadia, but after remaining so for a short time it returned, and
inundated the island, thus extinguishing the fire. And that the
inhabitants of the continent fled at the noise, from the sea-coast, into
the interior of Campania. It seems that the hot-springs[2017] here are a
remedy for those afflicted with gravel. Capreæ[2018] anciently possessed
two small cities, afterwards but one. The Neapolitans possessed this
island, but having lost Pithecussæ in war, they received it again from
Cæsar Augustus, giving him in exchange Capreæ. This [island] having thus
become the property of that prince, he [CAS. 248] has ornamented it with
numerous edifices. Such then are the maritime cities of Campania, and
the islands lying opposite to it.
10. In the interior is the metropolis, Capua, being, as the etymon of
the name signifies, the head; for in regard to it all the other cities
appear small, excepting Teanum-Sidicinum,[2019] which is a very
considerable place. This city lies on the Via Appia, as also the others
which lead from hence to Brundusium, [viz. ] Callateria,[2020]
Caudium,[2021] and Beneventum. [2022] On the side of Rome is
Casilinum,[2023] situated on the river Vulturnus. [2024] Here 540 men of
Præneste sustained against Hannibal in the height of his power so
desperate a siege, that by reason of the famine, a rat[2025] was sold
for two hundred drachmæ, the seller dying [of hunger], but the purchaser
being saved. Hannibal observing some of them sowing turnip-seed near to
the wall, admired, as well he might, the patient courage of these men,
who hoped to hold out in the mean while, until these turnips should be
ready for food. However, we are assured that they all survived, with the
exception of a few who perished either by famine or in war.
11. In addition to those just spoken of, there are these Campanian
cities which we have already mentioned, viz. Cales,[2026] and
Teanum-Sidicinum, the limits of which are respectively marked out by the
two temples of Fortune situated on either side of the Via Latina.
Besides these are Suessula,[2027] Atella,[2028] Nola,[2029]
Nuceria,[2030] Acerræ,[2031] Abella,[2032] with other smaller
settlements, some of which are said to be Samnite. [2033] The Samnites,
by making incursions into Latium as far as Ardea, and afterwards
devastating Campania itself, greatly extended their power. The
Campanians, being otherwise accustomed to a despotic government, yielded
ready obedience to their commands. At the present day they have been
almost entirely exterminated by the various Roman generals, and last of
all by Sulla, who was absolute master of the republic. He, after having
by numerous battles extinguished the Italian revolt, observing that the
Samnites, almost without exception, remained in one body, and with one
sole intention, so that they had even marched upon Rome itself, gave
them battle under the walls, and as he had issued orders to make no
prisoners, many of them were cut to pieces on the field, while the
remainder, said to be about three or four thousand men, who threw down
their arms, were led off to the _Villa Publica_ in the Campus Martius,
and there shut in; three days after soldiers were sent in who massacred
the whole; and when [Sulla] drew up his conscription list, he did not
rest satisfied until he had destroyed, or driven from Italy, every one
who bore a Samnite name. To those who reproached him for this animosity,
he replied that he had learned by experience that not a single Roman
could rest in peace so long as any of the Samnites survived. Thus their
cities have now dwindled into villages, some indeed being entirely
deserted, as Boianum,[2034] Æsernia,[2035] Panna, Telesia[2036]
adjoining Venafrum, and others similar, none of which can be looked upon
as cities; but in a country so renowned and powerful as Italy, we
thought proper to mention places even of second-rate importance. [We
should add that] Beneventum[2037] and Venusia[2038] are still
prosperous.
12. The following is the tradition concerning the [origin of the]
Samnites. The Sabines having been engaged for [CAS. 250] a long period
in war with the Ombrici, made a vow, common with some of the Grecian
nations, that they would consecrate to the gods the productions of the
year. [2039] They were victorious, and accordingly of the
productions,[2040] the one kind were sacrificed, the other consecrated.
However, in a time of scarcity, some one remarked, that they ought
likewise to have consecrated the children. This then they did, and the
children born at that period were called the sons of Mars. [2041] When
these had grown up to manhood, they were sent forth, a bull leading the
way, to found a colony. The bull lay down to rest in a place belonging
to the Opici; a people dwelling in villages. These they drove out, and
established themselves in the place. The bull, according to the
direction of the diviners, they sacrificed to Mars, who had given him to
them as a leader. It seems to have been in allusion to this that their
parents called them by the diminutive form of Sabelli. [2042] The name of
Samnites, or, as the Greeks call them, Saunites, originated in another
cause. It is also said that certain Lacedæmonians came to dwell amongst
them, and that this is the reason of their affection for the Greeks, and
that certain of them are called Pitanatæ. [2043] The whole of this,
however, appears to be a mere fabrication of the Tarentini, interested
in flattering and conciliating to themselves a neighbouring people, so
powerful as to be able, on a time, to bring into the field a force of
eighty thousand foot-soldiers, and eight thousand cavalry. There is said
to be a law amongst the Samnites, excellent in itself, and calculated to
excite to virtue. It is not lawful for fathers to give away their
daughters to whomsoever they may please; but every year ten of the most
virtuous young women, and ten of the most virtuous young men, are
selected; of these the most excellent young man is married to the most
excellent young woman, the second to the second, and so on in order.
Should he who receives this reward, afterwards change and become wicked,
he is dishonoured, and the wife who had been given is taken away from
him. Beyond are the Hirpini, who are also Samnites: their name they take
from the wolf, which conducted their colony; a wolf being called by the
Samnites _hirpos_: these people border on the Leucani in the interior.
So much for the Samnites.
13. The fertility of their country has been productive to the Campanians
of as much evil as good. Their luxury ran to such a height, that they
would invite to supper, in order to exhibit pairs of fighting
gladiators, the exact number of pairs being regulated according to the
distinction of the guests. When, on their voluntary submission to
Hannibal, they received his soldiers into winter quarters,[2044] the
pleasures [of the place] rendered the men so effeminate, that Hannibal
said, although conqueror, that he was in danger of the enemy, since his
soldiers were returned to him women, and no longer men. When the Romans
obtained the mastery,[2045] they inflicted on them numerous ills, and
ended by distributing their land by lot. [2046] At the present day they
are living in prosperity, and on friendly terms with the [Roman]
colonists, and preserve their ancient reputation, both in respect to the
size of their city and the numbers of their population. Beyond Campania
and the Samnites,[2047] and upon the Tyrrhenian Sea, dwells the nation
of the Picentini. This is a small off-shoot from the Picentini who dwell
near the Adriatic, and was transplanted by the Romans to the Posidoniate
Gulf,[2048] now called the Gulf of Pæstum. The city of Posidonia, which
is built about the middle of the gulf, is called Pæstum. [2049] The
Sybarites [when they founded the city[2050]] built the fortifications
close upon the sea, but the inhabitants removed higher up. In after
time[2051] the Leucani seized upon the city, but in their turn were
deprived of it by the Romans. [2052] It is rendered unhealthy by a
river[2053] [CAS. 251] which overflows the marshy districts in the
neighbourhood. Between the Sirenussæ and Posidonia[2054] is
Marcina,[2055] a city founded by the Tyrrheni, but inhabited by the
Samnites. [To go] from thence into Pompæa,[2056] through Nuceria,[2057]
[you cross] an isthmus of not more than 120 stadia. The Picentes extend
as far as the river Silaro,[2058] which separates their country on this
side from ancient Leucania. [2059] The water of this river is reported to
possess the singular property of petrifying any plant thrown into it,
preserving at the same time both the colour and form. [2060] Picentia was
formerly the capital of the Picentes; but they now dwell in villages,
having been ejected by the Romans[2061] for taking part with Hannibal.
Also, instead of doing military service, it has been decreed that they
shall be the public daily couriers and letter-carriers; [a penalty]
which for the same cause has been likewise inflicted on the Leucani and
Bruttii. To keep them in check, the Romans fortified Salernum, which is
a little above the sea. The distance from the Sirenussæ to the Silaro is
260 stadia.
BOOK VI.
ITALY.
SUMMARY.
The Sixth Book contains the remainder of Italy, and the regions
within the Adriatic, as far as Macedonia; likewise a description
of Apulia, Calabria, the country by the Ionian Gulf, together
with the adjacent islands, from Sicily to the Ceraunian
mountains, and on the other side as far as Carthage, and the
small islands lying near to it.
CHAPTER I.
1. After the mouth of the Silaro,[2062] is Leucania, and the temple of
Argive Juno, founded by Jason. Near to this, within 50 stadia, is
Posidonia. [2063] Sailing thence, towards the high sea, is the island of
Leucosia,[2064] at a little distance from the mainland. It bears the
name of one of the Sirens, who according to the mythology was cast up
here, after having been precipitated with her companions into the deep.
The promontory[2065] of the island projects opposite the
Sirenussæ,[2066] forming the bay of Posidonium. [2067] After having made
this cape there is another contiguous bay, on which is built the city
which the Phocæans called Hyela when they founded it, but others Ela
from a certain fountain. People in the present day call it Elea. It is
here that Parmenides and Zeno, the Pythagorean philosophers, were born.
And it is my opinion that through the instrumentality of those men, as
well as by previous good management, the government of that place was
well arranged, so that they successfully resisted the Leucani and the
Posidoniatæ, notwithstanding the smallness of their district and the
inferiority of their numbers. They are [CAS. 252] compelled, therefore,
on account of the barrenness of the soil, to apply to maritime trade
chiefly, to employ themselves in the salting of fish, and in such other
occupations. Antiochus[2068] says that when Phocea was taken by
Harpagus, the general of Cyrus, those who had the means embarked with
their families, and sailed under the conduct of Creontiades, first to
Cyrnos and Marseilles, but having been driven thence, they founded
Elea;[2069] the name of which some say is derived from the river
Elees. [2070] The city is distant about two hundred stadia from
Posidonia. After this city is the promontory of Palinurus. But in front
of the Eleatis are the Œnotrides, two islands[2071] having good
anchorage. [2072] And beyond Palinurus are the promontory, harbour, and
river of Pyxus;[2073] the three having the same name. This colony was
founded[2074] by Micythus, then governor of Messina in Sicily; but those
who were located here, except a few, abandoned the place. After Pyxus
are the gulf,[2075] the river,[2076] and the city[2077] of Laüs. This,
the last[2078] city of the Leucani, situate a little above the sea, is a
colony[2079] of the Sybarites, and is distant from Elea 400 stadia. The
whole circuit of Leucania, by sea is 650 stadia. Near to Laüs is seen
the tomb of Draco, one of the companions of Ulysses, and the oracular
response, given to the Italian Greeks, alludes to him:
“Some day, around the Dragon’s stony tomb,
A mighty multitude shall meet their doom. ”
For the Greeks of Italy, enticed by this prophecy, marched against Laüs
and were defeated by the Leucani. [2080]
2. Such, along the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, are the possessions of
the Leucani, which at first did not reach to the other sea;[2081] the
Greeks who dwelt on the Gulf of Tarentum possessed it. But before the
coming of the Greeks there were no Leucani, the Chones[2082] and Œnotri
possessed these territories. But when the Samnites had greatly
increased, and expelled the Chones and Œnotri, and driven the Leucani
into this region, while the Greeks possessed the sea-coast on both
sides as far as the straits, the Greeks and the Barbarians maintained a
lengthened contest. The tyrants of Sicily, and afterwards the
Carthaginians, at one time making war against the Romans, for the
acquisition of Sicily, and at another, for Italy itself, utterly wasted
all these regions. The Greeks, however, succeeded in depriving the
ancient inhabitants of a great portion of the midland country, beginning
even as early as the Trojan war; they increased in power, and extent of
territory, to such a degree, that they called this region and Sicily,
the _Magna Græcia_. But now the whole region, except Tarentum, Rhegium,
and Neapolis, has become barbarian,[2083] and belongs partly to the
Leucani and Bruttii, partly to the Campani; to these, however, only in
name, but truly to the Romans; for these people have become Roman.
However, it is incumbent on one who is treating of [CAS. 253] universal
geography, to speak both of things as they now are, and of some of those
that have been, and especially when they are important. Of the Leucani,
who border upon the Tuscan Sea, mention has already been made; those who
possess the midland regions dwell above the Gulf of Tarentum, but these,
as well as the Bruttii, and the Samnites themselves, the progenitors of
both, have been so maltreated [by the Romans], that it is difficult to
determine the boundaries of each people. The reason of this is, that
there no longer remains separately any of the institutions common to
these nations; and their peculiarities of language, of military and
civil costume, and such particulars, have passed away; besides, even
their places of abode, considered separately and apart, possess nothing
worthy of observation.
3. We will narrate in a general manner what we have gathered concerning
the Leucani, who dwell in the interior, without too much care in
distinguishing them from their neighbours, the Samnites. Petilia[2084]
is considered as the metropolis of the Leucani, and is still well
peopled. It owes its foundation to Philoctetes, who was compelled to
quit Melibœa on account of civil dissensions. Its position is so strong,
that the Samnites were formerly obliged to construct forts around it for
the defence of their territory. The ancient Crimissa, situated near
these places, was also founded by Philoctetes. Apollodorus, in his
description of the ships [of the Greeks], narrates concerning
Philoctetes, that, according to certain writers, this prince having
disembarked in the district of Crotona, settled on the promontory of
Crimissa, and built the city of Chone[2085] above it, from which the
inhabitants were called Chones; and that certain colonists being sent by
him into Sicily, to the neighbourhood of Eryx,[2086] with Ægestus the
Trojan, founded Ægesta. [2087] In the inland districts are also
Grumentum,[2088] Vertinæ,[2089] Calasarna,[2090] and other small
villages, reaching as far as Venusia,[2091] a city of some importance.
This, however, I consider to be a Samnite city, as are also those which
are next met with on going into Campania. Above the Thurii lies the
district called Tauriana. [2092] The Leucani are of Samnite origin.
Having vanquished the Posidoniates and their allies, they took
possession of their cities. At one time the institutions of the Leucani
were democratic, but during the wars a king was elected by those who
were possessed of chief authority: at the present time they are Roman.
4. The Bruttii occupy the remainder of the coast as far as the Strait of
Sicily, extending about 1350 stadia. Antiochus, in his treatise on
Italy, says that this district, which he intended to describe, was
called Italy, but that previously it had been called Œnotria. The
boundary which he assigns to it on the Tyrrhenian Sea, is the river
Lao,[2093] and on the Sea of Sicily Metapontium, the former of which we
have given as the boundary of the Bruttii. He describes Tarentum, which
is next to Metapontium,[2094] as beyond Italy, calling it Iapygian. He
also relates that, at a more ancient period, those who dwelt on this
side the isthmus, which lies next the Strait of Sicily, were the only
people who were called Œnotrians and Italians. The isthmus is 160 stadia
across between the two gulfs, namely, that of Hipponium,[2095] which
Antiochus called Napitinus, and [CAS. 255] that of Scylletium. [2096] The
circumnavigation of the peninsula, which is comprised between this
isthmus and the strait, is 2000 stadia. He says that afterwards the
names of Italy and of the Œnotrians were extended as far as Metapontium
and the Siritis; the Chones, a people of Œnotrian descent, and highly
civilized, inhabited these districts, and called their country Chone.
However, this author has written in a very loose and old-fashioned
manner, without giving any definite boundaries to the Leucani and
Bruttii. Now Leucania is situated on the Tyrrhenian and Sicilian Seas,
extending on one coast from the Silaro[2097] to the river Lao, and on
the other from Metapontium[2098] to Thurii. Along the continent it
stretches from the country of the Samnites, as far as the isthmus
between Thurii and Cerilli,[2099] near the Lao. This isthmus is 300
stadia[2100] across. Beyond are the Bruttii, who dwell on the peninsula;
in this is included another peninsula, which is bounded by the isthmus
between Scylletium[2101] and the Hipponiate gulf. [2102] The nation
received its appellation from the Leucani, for they call runaways
Bruttii, and they say that formerly they ran away from them when
employed as shepherds, and that afterwards their independence was
established through the weakness [of the Leucani], when Dion [of
Syracuse] was prosecuting a war against [the younger] Dionysius, and
fomented hostilities amongst all. [2103] This is all we shall remark as
to the Leucani and Bruttii.
5. From the Lao the first city is the Temesa[2104] of the Bruttii,
which at present is called Tempsa. It was founded by the Ausonians;
afterwards the Ætolians, under the command of Thoas, gained possession
of it. These were expelled by the Bruttii; Hannibal and the Romans have
overthrown the Bruttii. [2105] In the vicinity of Temesa is the Heroum of
Polites, one of the companions of Ulysses. It is surrounded by a thick
grove of wild olives. He was treacherously slain by the barbarians, and
became in consequence very wrathful, and his shade so tormented the
inhabitants that they submitted to pay him a tribute, according to the
direction of a certain oracle. Thus it became a proverb amongst them,
“Let no one offend the hero of Temesa,” for they said that [for a long
time he[2106]] had tormented them. But when the Epizephyrian Locrians
took the city, they feign that Euthymus the pugilist went out against
him, and having overcome him in fight, constrained him to free the
inhabitants from tribute. [2107] They say that the poet intended this
Temesa, and not the Tamassus[2108] in Cyprus, (for it is said that the
words are suitable to either,[2109]) when he sings,
“in quest of brass
To Temesa. ”[2110]
[CAS. 256] and certain copper-mines are pointed out near to the place,
which are now exhausted. Contiguous to it is Terina,[2111] which
Hannibal destroyed, when he found he could no longer retain it; at the
time when he took refuge in the country of the Bruttii. [2112] Next in
order comes Cosentia,[2113] the metropolis of the Bruttii. A little
above it is Pandosia, which is strongly fortified, before which
Alexander the Molossian king was overthrown. This prince was led astray
by the oracle of Dodona, which commanded him to avoid Acheron and
Pandosia;[2114] for places with names like these being pointed out in
Thesprotia, caused him to lose his life[2115] here. The position has
three summits, and the river Acheron flows by it. He was also mistaken
in another oracle,
“O Pandosia, thou three-topp’d hill,
Hereafter many people thou shalt kill;”
for he thought that it foreshowed the destruction of his enemies, and
not of his own people. They say that Pandosia[2116] was formerly the
residence of the Œnotrian kings. After Cosentia is Hipponium,[2117]
founded by the Locrians. [2118] The Romans took it from the Bruttii, who
were in possession of it at a subsequent period, and changed the name
into Vibo-Valentia. [2119] And because the meadows in its vicinity are
luxuriant and full of flowers, it is supposed that Proserpine came over
from Sicily to gather them, and from thence the custom among women of
this city, to gather flowers and plait garlands, prevailed to such an
extent, that they now think it shameful to wear purchased garlands at
the festivals. [2120] It also possesses a harbour[2121] made by
Agathocles,[2122] the tyrant of Sicily, when he was in possession of the
town. On sailing hence to the Portus Herculis,[2123] we come to the
point where the headlands of Italy, as they stretch towards the Strait
[of Sicily], begin to turn westward. In this voyage we pass Medma,[2124]
a city of the same Locrians,[2125] which bears the name of a copious
fountain, and possessing at a short distance a naval station, called
Emporium. [2126] Very nigh is the river Metauro,[2127] as also a naval
station bearing the same name. [2128] The Lipari Isles lie off this
coast; they are distant 200 stadia from the strait. They say that they
are the islands of Æolus, of whom the poet makes [CAS. 257] mention in
the Odyssey. [2129] They are seven in number, and are all easily
distinguished both from Sicily and the coast of the continent about
Medma. We will speak of them in particular when we describe Sicily.
After the river Metaurus, there is another Metaurus. [2130] Next in order
is Scyllæum, an elevated cliff nearly surrounded by the sea. But
connected with the mainland by a low isthmus easily accessible on either
side, which Anaxilaus, the tyrant of Rhegium, fortified against the
Tyrrheni, and formed a commodious haven, and thus prevented the pirates
from passing through the strait. Next to the Scyllæan promontory was
that of Cænys, distant from Medma 250 stadia. It is the last headland,
and forms the narrowest part of the Strait [of Sicily], being opposite
to Cape Pelorus on the Sicilian side, which is one of the three points
which give to that island the form of a triangle. Its aspect is towards
the rising of the sun in summer, whilst that of Cænys looks towards the
west. Indeed they both seem to have diverged from the general line of
coast in order to stand out opposite each other. [2131] From Cænys to the
Posidonium[2132] [and] the Columna Rheginorum,[2133] the narrow part of
the strait stretches as much as 6 stadia, the shortest passage across
the strait is a little more. From the Columna [Rheginorum] to Rhegium,
where the strait begins to widen, is a hundred [stadia] as you advance
in a direction towards the exterior and eastern sea, which is called the
sea of Sicily.
6. Rhegium[2134] was founded by certain Chalcidenses, who, as they say,
were decimated as an offering to Apollo in a time of scarcity, by order
of an oracle, and afterwards removed hither from Delphi, taking with
them certain others from home. As Antiochus says, the Zanclæans sent for
the Chalcidenses, and appointed Antimnestus chief over them. Certain
fugitives of the Messenians of Peloponnesus accompanied this colony, who
had been compelled to fly by those who refused to give satisfaction to
the Lacedæmonians for the violation[2135] of the virgins at Limnæ, whom
they had abused when attending the religious festival, and had slain
those who assisted them. However when the fugitives had removed to
Macistus, they sent to the oracle complaining against Apollo and Diana
for suffering these things to happen notwithstanding they so greatly
honoured them, and inquiring how the devoted might be saved. Apollo
commanded to send them with the Chalcidenses to Rhegium, and to be
grateful, therefore, to his sister Diana for that they were not lost but
saved, as they should not be destroyed with their country, which would
be annihilated shortly after by the Spartans. [2136] They acted in
accordance with the oracle, and thus it was that the rulers of the
Rhegini were all of Messenian race until the time of Anaxilaus.
Antiochus asserts that anciently the whole of this district was
inhabited by Sicilians and Morgetes; and that they [CAS. 258] afterwards
passed into Sicily when they were expelled by the Œnotri. Some say that
Morgantium[2137] thus received its name from the Morgetes. But the city
of the Rhegini became very powerful, and possessed many dependent
settlements. It has always been a bulwark for us against the island [of
Sicily], and, indeed, has recently served to that purpose when Sextus
Pompeius alienated Sicily. [2138] It was called Rhegium either, as
Æschylus says, because of the convulsion which had taken place in this
region; for Sicily was broken from the continent by earthquakes,
“Whence it is called Rhegium. ”[2139]
Others,[2140] as well as he, have affirmed the same thing, and adduce as
an evidence that which is observed about Ætna, and the appearances seen
in other parts of Sicily, the Lipari and neighbouring islands, and even
in the Pithecussæ, with the whole coast beyond them, which prove that it
was not unlikely that this convulsion had taken place. But now these
mouths being opened, through which the fire is drawn up, and the ardent
masses and water poured out, they say that the land in the neighbourhood
of the Strait of Sicily rarely suffers from the effects of earthquakes;
but formerly all the passages to the surface being blocked up, the fire
which was smouldering beneath the earth, together with the vapour,
occasioned terrible earthquakes, and the regions, being disturbed by the
force of the pent-up winds, sometimes gave way, and being rent received
the sea, which flowed in from either side; and thus were formed both
this strait and the sea which surrounds the other islands in the
neighbourhood. For Prochyta[2141] and the Pithecussæ, as well as
Capreæ, Leucosia, the Sirenes, and the Œnotrides, are but so many
detached fragments from the continent, but other islands have risen from
the bottom of the sea, a circumstance which frequently occurs in many
places; for it is more reasonable to think that the islands in the midst
of the sea have been raised up from the bottom, and that those which lie
off headlands and are separated merely by a strait were broken off from
them. Still it is beside our purpose to investigate thoroughly whether
the name were given to the city for these causes, or whether it were
named by the Samnites from the Latin word regium, which signifies royal,
on account of its importance,[2142] for their chieftains participated in
the privileges of citizenship with the Romans, and generally used the
Latin language. But Dionysius (the elder), having been treated with
contempt by them, destroyed the illustrious city which had founded many
towns and produced many distinguished characters, whether statesmen or
men of letters,[2143] for when he sought a consort from their city, they
offered him the hangman’s daughter;[2144] but his son (Dionysius the
younger) partly restored it,[2145] and called it Phœbia. During the war
with Pyrrhus, a body of Campanians destroyed most of the citizens
against the faith of treaties,[2146] and a little [CAS. 259] before the
Marsic or social war, earthquakes destroyed most of the towns;[2147] but
after Augustus Cæsar had driven Sextus Pompeius out of Sicily, when he
saw that the city was deficient of inhabitants, he appointed certain of
those who accompanied the expedition to reside there, and it is now
tolerably well peopled. [2148]
7. Sailing 50 stadia from Rhegium towards the east, we meet the cape
called Leucopetra, from the colour of the rock, where they say the range
of the Apennines terminates. [2149] Further on is Heraclæum.
[2150] It is
the last promontory, and looks towards the south; for presently on
doubling it the course takes a south-western direction as far as the
promontory of Iapygia,[2151] then it runs towards the north more and
more, and towards the west along the Ionian gulf. After the Herculeum
Promontorium is the headland of Locris, which is called
Zephyrium,[2152] possessing a haven exposed to the west winds, whence is
derived its name. Then is the state of the Locri Epizephyrii, a colony
of Locrians transported by Evanthes from the Crissæan gulf, shortly
after the foundation of Crotona and Syracuse. [2153] Ephorus was not
correct in stating that they were a colony of the Locri Opuntii. [2154]
They remained at first during three or four years at Cape Zephyrium;
afterwards they removed their city, with the assistance of certain
Syracusans who dwelt amongst them. There is also a fountain called
Locria in the place where the Locri first took up their abode. From
Rhegium to the Locri there are 600 stadia. The city is built on a
height, which they call Esopis. [2155]
8. The Locri are believed to have been the first who committed their
laws to writing, but after they had enjoyed the advantage of these good
laws for a very considerable time, Dionysius [the younger], having been
expelled[2156] from Syracuse, found means to abuse them in a most
abominable manner, for he, entering into a private chamber where certain
young brides had been adorned for their nuptials, violated them; he also
gathered the most beautiful virgins to his revels, and having liberated
doves with uncut wings, commanded the young women to chase them round
the apartment in a state of perfect nudity, while on some he bound
sandals of unequal height, one being high and the other low, in order to
make their appearance in the pursuit the more unseemly. However he paid
dearly for this, for having returned to Sicily to resume his government,
the Locri overpowered the guard he had left in their city, freed
themselves, and obtained possession of his wife and children; there were
two of his daughters, and his second son who had already attained the
age of manhood; the eldest, however, called Apollocrates, accompanied
his father in the expedition. And although Dionysius himself entreated
them earnestly, as did also the Tarentines, to deliver the prisoners for
whatever ransom they should name, they remained inexorable, and endured
a siege and the wasting of their country, that they might vent their
rage on his daughters. After having exposed them to the most shameful
[CAS. 260] outrages, they strangled them, burnt their bodies, pounded
their bones, and cast them into the sea. [2157] Ephorus in speaking of
the written law of the Locri, which Zaleucus had most judiciously
selected from the Cretan, Lacedæmonian, and Areopagite codes, says that
Zaleucus was the first to establish this principle, that whereas
formerly lawgivers had left it to the judges to award the punishments
for the several offences, he established a certain penalty in his laws,
thinking that the minds of the judges would not be led to attach the
same penalties for the same transgressions, which course he considered
expedient. He praises him also for having simplified the law of
contracts. [He says also] that the Thurians, being desirous to improve
[the code of Zaleucus] more than the Locri had done, became more
celebrated, but were less judicious. [2158] For that state is not
regulated by the best government, where they guard against all manner of
deceit by their laws, but that wherein they abide by laws simply framed.
Plato also has observed that where there are many laws, there will be
law-suits and evil lives, in the same way as, where there are many
physicians, there it is likely there is much sickness.
9. There is a certain singular circumstance, respecting grasshoppers,
worthy of note. The river Alece[2159] divides Rhegium from Locris,
flowing through a deep ravine; those which are in the territory of the
Locrians sing, but those on the other side are silent; and it is thought
probable that this is caused by the region being woody, and their
membranes being softened by dew do not produce sound; but those on the
Locrian side being sunned, are dry and horny, so that the sound is
easily produced by them. The statue of Eunomus the harper having a
grasshopper seated on his harp is shown at Locri. Timæus says, that this
Eunomus was once contending at the Pythian games and disputed with
Aristo of Rhegium for the prize, and that Aristo declared that the
people of Delphi ought to take part with him, because his ancestors
were consecrated to the god, and sent out to found the colony; but
Eunomus said that they could have no claim to contend for melody with
any one, because that among them even the grasshoppers, who are the most
gifted of all creatures, were mute. Nevertheless Aristo was applauded,
and had hopes of obtaining the victory, but Eunomus was declared
victorious, and dedicated the said statue in his country, because that
at the contest one of the chords of his harp having broken, a
grasshopper taking his stand on it supplied the sound. Above these towns
the Bruttii possess the interior, and there is the city Mamertium,[2160]
and the forest which they call Sila, which produces the best or Bruttian
pitch. [2161] It yields fine trees, and is well watered, extending over a
length of 700 stadia.
10. After the Locri is the [river] Sagras,[2162] in the feminine gender,
on which is situated the altar of the Dioscuri, near which ten thousand
Locrians, with a small body of Rhegians gained a victory over 130,000
Crotoniatæ, whence they say arose the proverb applied to incredulous
people, “It is more true than the victory of the Sagras. ” Some people
add to the mysterious account, that it was announced the same day at the
Olympic games to the people there assembled, and this speedy news was
found perfectly correct. They say that this mischance was so unfortunate
an event to the Crotoniatæ, that after it they did not long remain as a
nation, on account [CAS. 261] of the number of citizens who fell in the
battle. After the Sagras is Caulonia, which was at first called Aulonia,
from the αὐλὼν, or valley, in which it was situated; but it is deserted,
for its former possessors were driven out by the barbarians,[2163] and
have taken refuge in Sicily, and there founded [another] Caulonia. [2164]
After this is Scylletium,[2165] a colony of the Athenians, who set out
under Menestheus;[2166] it is now called Scylacium. [2167] Dionysius [the
elder] allotted a portion of it to the Locri, whilst it was in the
possession of the Crotoniatæ. [2168] The Scylleticus Sinus received its
name from this city. It together with the Hipponiates Sinus forms the
isthmus which we have mentioned above. [2169] Dionysius[2170] undertook
to build a wall across the isthmus, at the time he was carrying on war
against the Leucani, assigning as a pretext that it would afford
security to the inhabitants of the peninsula from the inroads of the
barbarians dwelling beyond it; but in truth his intention was to cut off
the communication of the Greeks with each other, and to have the greater
power over those who dwelt within the peninsula, but those who dwelt
without[2171] assembled and prevented the undertaking.
11. After Scylletium is the region of Crotona, and the Iapygum tria
Promontoria,[2172] and after these the Lacinium,[2173] sacred to Juno,
formerly rich and filled with many offerings. But the distances have not
been accurately stated. We can only say that in a general way Polybius
reckons 2300[2174] stadia from the strait[2175] to Lacinium,[2176] and
700 stadia from Lacinium to the Iapygian promontory. They call this the
entrance of the Gulf of Taranto. The extent of the gulf is considerable,
being 240 miles along the shore. As the chorographer says . . . of 380 . . .
to a light person, Artemidorus: wanting also by so many . . . of the
breadth of the mouth of the gulf. [2177] Its aspect looks towards the
rising of the sun in winter. [2178] It commenced from Lacinium, for
presently on doubling the cape you come to where the Greek cities
formerly stood; now they no longer exist, with the exception of
Tarentum. But on account of the estimation in which certain of them were
held, it is worth while to speak of them somewhat in detail.
12. The first is Crotona, 150 stadia from Lacinium and the river [CAS.
262] Esaro;[2179] there is also a haven[2180] there, and another river
Nieto,[2181] the name whereof is said to be derived from the following
circumstance—they say that certain of the Greeks who had wandered from
the fleet which had besieged Troy, having arrived in this place,
disembarked to take a survey of the country, and that the Trojan women
who accompanied them in the fleet, having observed the absence of the
men, and being wearied with a toilsome voyage, set fire to the fleet, so
that they were compelled to abide, when they saw, in addition [to the
loss of their ships], that the soil was very fertile. Many others
arriving soon after, and being desirous to live near their
fellow-countrymen, founded several settlements. Most of them derived
their names from the Trojans, and the river Nieto received its
appellation from the destruction[2182] [of the ships]. But Antiochus
relates that an oracle having commanded the Greeks to found Crotona,
Myscellus went forth to view the place, and having seen Sybaris already
built on a neighbouring river of the same name, thought it better, and
returned to the god to ask if he might be permitted to settle in that,
instead of the other; but that the oracle answered, applying to him an
epithet noticing his defective stature, (for Myscellus was somewhat
crook-backed,)
“O short-backed Myscellus, whilst seeking somewhat else of thyself,
Thou pursuest only misfortune: it is right to accept that which is
proffered to thee:”[2183]
and that he returned and built Crotona, wherein he was assisted by
Archias,[2184] the founder of Syracuse, who happened to touch at Crotona
by chance, as he was proceeding to the colony of the Syracusans. The
Iapyges possessed Crotona before this time,[2185] as Ephorus relates.
The city cultivated martial discipline and athletic exercises to a
great extent, and in one of the Olympic games all the seven wrestlers,
who obtained the palm in the stadium, were Crotoniatæ; whence, it seems,
the saying arose that the last wrestler of Crotona was the first of the
other Greeks, and hence they say also is the origin of the expression,
“more salubrious than Crotona,” as instancing a place which had
something to show, in the number of wrestlers which it produced, as a
proof of its salubrity and the robust frame of body which it was capable
of rearing. Thus it had many victors in the Olympic games, although it
cannot be reckoned to have been long inhabited on account of the vast
destruction of its citizens, who fell at the battle of the Sagras. Its
celebrity too was not a little spread by the number of Pythagoreans who
resided there, and Milo,[2186] who was the most renowned of wrestlers,
and lived in terms of intimacy with Pythagoras, who abode long in this
city. They relate that at a banquet of the philosophers, when one of the
pillars in the hall gave way, Milo sustained the ceiling while they all
escaped, and afterwards saved himself. It is likely that, trusting to
the same strength, he met his fate as related by some, for whilst making
his way through a thick wood, he strayed considerably out of the path,
when finding a great log with wedges in it, he thrust both his hands and
feet into the fissure, intending to split it completely, but was only
able to force it enough to let the wedges fall out, when the gaping log
presently closed on him, and he, being taken as in a snare, was devoured
by wild beasts.
13. Beyond this, at the distance of 200 stadia, is situated
Sybaris,[2187] a colony settled by the Achæans, between the two [CAS.
263] rivers Crati[2188] and Sybaris. [2189] Its founder was Is. . . . [2190]
the Helicean. [2191] So great was the prosperity enjoyed by this city
anciently, that it held dominion over four neighbouring people and
twenty-five towns; in the war with the Crotoniatæ it brought into the
field 300,000 men, and occupied a circuit of 50 stadia on the Crati. But
on account of the arrogance and turbulence of its citizens, it was
deprived of all its prosperity by the Crotoniatæ in 70[2192] days, who
took the city, and turning the waters of the river [Crati], overwhelmed
it with an inundation. [2193] Some time after, a few who had escaped came
together and inhabited the site of their former city, but in time they
were dispossessed by the Athenians[2194] and other Greeks, who came and
settled amongst them, but they despised and subjugated them, and removed
the city to a neighbouring place, calling its name Thurii, from a
fountain of that name. The water of the river Sybaris has the peculiar
property of making the horses which drink it shy,[2195] for which reason
they keep their horses away from the river. The Crati turns the hair of
those who bathe in it yellow, and sometimes white, but has been found
salutary for the cure of many disorders. Thurii, after having flourished
for a long time, became a continual prey to the aggressions of the
Leucani,[2196] and afterwards the Tarentini troubling them, they
appealed to the Romans for succour, who, in course of time, sent a
colony[2197] when it was nearly deserted, and changed the name of the
city to Copiæ. [2198]
14. After Thurii is Lagaria,[2199] a garrison fort; it was originally
settled by Epeius[2200] and the Phocenses; hence is derived the
Lagaritan wine, sweet and delicate, and much recommended by the
physicians, as is likewise the Thurian wine, which is reckoned among the
best. Then comes the city of Heraclea,[2201] a little way from the sea,
and two navigable rivers, the Agri[2202] and the Sinno,[2203] on which
was the city Siris, founded by a Trojan colony, but in course of time,
when Heraclea was peopled with the citizens of Siris by the Tarentini,
it became the harbour of Heraclea. Its distance from Heraclea was 24
stadia, and from Thurii about 330. [2204] They point out the statue of
the Trojan Minerva, which is erected there, as a proof of its
colonization by the Trojans. They also relate as a miracle how the
statue closed its eyes when the suppliants, who had fled for sanctuary
to her shrine, were dragged away by the Ionians after they had taken the
city;[2205] they say that these Ionians came to settle here, when they
fled from the yoke of the Lydians, and took the town of the
Trojans[2206] by force, calling its name Polieum. They show, too, at the
present time [CAS. 264] the statue that closes its eyes. It must,
however, require a good courage, not to assert that it appeared to have
closed its eyes, as that at Troy turned away its eyes from beholding the
violence offered to Cassandra, but to show it in the act of winking:—but
it is much more daring to make so many statues of the Minerva rescued
from Ilium, as those who describe them affirm, for there is a Minerva
said to be Trojan in the sense of having been rescued from that city,
not only at Siris, but at Rome, at Lavinium, and at Luceria. The scene,
too, of the daring of the Trojan female captives is assigned to many
different places and appears incredible, although it is by no means
impossible. There are some who say that Siris, and also that Sybaris on
the Trionto,[2207] were founded by the Rhodians. Antiochus says that the
site of Siris having become the subject of a contention between the
Tarentini and the Thurii, on that occasion commanded by Cleandridas the
general who had been banished from Lacedæmon, the two people came to a
composition, and agreed to inhabit it in common, but that the
colony[2208] should be considered as Tarentine; however, at a subsequent
period both the name and the locality were changed, and it was called
Heraclea. [2209]
15. Next in order is Metapontium,[2210] at a distance of 140 stadia from
the sea-port of Heraclea. It is said to be a settlement of the Pylians
at the time of their return from Ilium under Nestor; their success in
agriculture was so great, that it is said they offered at Delphi a
golden harvest:[2211] they adduce, as a proof of this foundation, the
offerings of the dead sacrificed periodically to the Neleïdæ;[2212] but
it was destroyed by the Samnites. [2213] Antiochus says that certain
Achæans, who had been sent for by the Achæans of Sybaris, settled in
this place when it had been desolated; he adds that these were sent for
on account of the hatred of the Achæans to the Tarentini, who had
originally migrated from Laconia, in order to prevent their seizing upon
the place which lay adjacent to them. Of the two cities, viz.
Metapontium which was situated the nearer, [and Siris the
further,[2214]] from Tarentum, the new comers preferred to occupy
Metapontium. This choice was suggested by the Sybarites, because, if
they should make good their settlement there, they would also possess
Siris, but if they were to turn to Siris, Metapontium would be annexed
to the territory of the Tarentines which was conterminous. But after
being engaged in war with the Tarentini and the Œnotrians, who dwelt
beyond them, they came to an agreement, securing to them a portion of
land, which should constitute the boundary between Italy, as it then
existed, and Iapygia. This, too, is the locality which tradition assigns
to the adventures of Metapontus and the captive Melanippe, and her son
Bœotus. But Antiochus is of opinion that the city Metapontium was
originally called Metabum, and that its name was altered at a subsequent
period; and that Melanippe was not entertained here but at Dius, and
thinks that the heroum of Metabus as well as the testimony of the poet
Asius, who says that
“The beautiful Melanippe, in the halls of Dius, bare Bœotus,”
afford sufficient proof that Melanippe was led to Dius and not to
Metabum. Ephorus says that Daulius, the tyrant of Crissa[2215] near
Delphi, was the founder of Metapontium. There is, however, another
tradition, that Leucippus was sent by the Achæans to help to found the
colony, and having asked permission of the Tarentini to have the place
for a day and a night, would not give it up, replying by day to those
who [CAS. 265] asked it of him, that he had asked and obtained it till
the following night, and when asked by night, he said that he held it
till the coming day.
Next adjoining is Tarentum and Iapygia, which we will describe when we
shall have first gone through the islands which lie off Italy, according
to our original purpose; for we have always given the adjacent islands
with every nation we have hitherto described, and since we have gone
through Œnotria, which only, the people of ancient times named Italy, we
feel justified in keeping to the same arrangement, and shall pass on to
Sicily and the surrounding islands.
CHAPTER II.
1. Sicily is triangular in form, and on this account was at first called
Trinacria, but afterwards the name was softened and it was changed into
Thrinacia. [2216] Three low headlands bound the figure: Pelorias is the
name of that towards Cænys and the Columna Rheginorum which forms the
strait; Pachynus[2217] is that which stretches towards the east, and is
washed by the Sea of Sicily, looking towards the Peloponnesus and in the
direction of the passage to Crete; the third is Lilybæum,[2218] and is
next to Africa, looking towards that region and the setting of the sun
in winter. [2219] Of the sides which these three headlands bound, two are
somewhat concave, while the third is slightly convex, it runs from
Lilybæum to Pelorias, and is the longest, being, as Posidonius has said,
1700 stadia adding further twenty. Of the others, that extending to
Pachynus from Lilybæum is the longer, while the shortest faces the
Strait and Italy, extending from Pelorias to Pachynus, being about 1120
or 1130 stadia. Posidonius shows that the circumference is 4400 stadia,
but in the Chorography the distances are declared to exceed the above
numbers, being severally reckoned in miles. Thus from Cape Pelorias to
Mylæ,[2220] 25 miles; from Mylæ to Tyndaris,[2221] 25; thence to
Agathyrnum,[2222] 30; from Agathyrnum to Alæsa,[2223] 30; from Alæsa to
Cephalœdium,[2224] 30; these are but insignificant places; from
Cephalœdium to the river Himera,[2225] which runs through the midst of
Sicily, 18; from thence to Panormus,[2226] 35; [thence] to the
Emporium[2227] of the Ægestani, 32; leaving to Lilybæum[2228] a distance
of 38; thence having doubled the Cape and coasting the adjacent side to
Heracleum,[2229] 75; and to the Emporium[2230] of the Agrigentini, 20;
and to[2231] [CAS. 266] Camarina,[2232] another 20; then to Pachynus,
50; thence again along the third side to Syracuse, 36;[2233] from
Syracuse to Catana, 60; then to Tauromenium,[2234] 33; thence to
Messana, 30. [2235] Thus on foot[2236] from Pachynus to Pelorias we have
168 [miles], and from Messana[2237] to [Cape] Lilybæum, on the Via
Valeria,[2238] we have 235[2239] [miles]. Some have estimated the
circuit in a more simple way, as Ephorus, who says that the compass of
the island by sea takes five days and nights. Posidonius attempts to
determine the situation of the island by climata,[2240] and places
Pelorias to the north, Lilybæum to the south, and Pachynus to the east.
We however consider that of necessity all climata are set out in the
manner of a parallelogram, but that districts portrayed as triangles,
and especially such triangles as are scalene,[2241] and whereof no one
side lies parallel to a side of the parallelogram, cannot in any way be
assimilated to climata on account of their obliquity. However, we must
allow, that in treating of Sicily, Pelorias, which lies to the south of
Italy, may well be called the most northern of the three angles, so that
we say that the line which joins it[2242] to Pachynus faces the east but
looks towards the north. [2243] Now this line [of coast] will make the
side next the Strait [of Messina], and it must have a slight inclination
towards the winter sunrise;[2244] for thus the shore slightly changes
its direction as you travel from Catana towards Syracuse and Pachynus.
Now the transit from Pachynus to the mouth of the Alpheus[2245] is 4000
stadia. But when Artemidorus says that from Pachynus to Tænarum[2246] it
is 4600, and from the Alpheus to the Pamisus is 1130 stadia,[2247] he
appears to me to lie open to the objection of having given distances
which do not accord with the 4000 stadia from Pachynus to the Alpheus.
The line run from Pachynus to Lilybæum (which is much to the west of
Pelorias) is considerably diverged from the south towards the west,
having at the same time an aspect looking towards the east and towards
the south. [2248] On one side it is washed by the sea of Sicily, and on
the other by the Libyan Sea, extending from Carthage to the Syrtes. The
shortest run is 1500 stadia from Lilybæum to the coast of Africa about
Carthage; and, according to report, a certain very sharp-sighted
person,[2249] placed on a watch-tower, announced to the Carthaginians
besieged in Lilybæum the number of the ships which were leaving
Carthage. And from Lilybæum to Pelorias the side must necessarily
incline towards the east, and look in a direction towards the west and
north, having Italy to the north, and the Tyrrhenian Sea with the
islands of Æolus to the west. [2250]
2. The cities situated on the side which forms the Strait are, first
Messana, then Tauromenium,[2251] Catana, and Syracuse; between Catana
and Syracuse were the ruined cities Naxos[2252] and Megara,[2253]
situated where the rivers descending from Ætna fall into the sea, and
afford good accommodation for shipping. Here is also the promontory of
Xiphonia. They say that Ephorus founded these first cities of the Greeks
in Sicily in [CAS. 267] the tenth generation from the Trojan war. For
those who preceded him were so terrified by the piratical customs of the
Tyrrheni, and the ferocity of the savages of the neighbourhood, that
they did not even venture to resort thither for the purposes of
commerce. Theocles the Athenian, however, having been driven to Sicily
by storms, observed both the weakness of the inhabitants and the
excellence of the soil. On his return home, he was unable to persuade
the Athenians to make any attempt, but he collected a numerous band of
Chalcidians in Eubœa, with some Ionians and Dorians, whereof the most
part were Megarenses, and sailed. The Chalcidians founded Naxos, and the
Dorians Megara, which was at first called Hybla. These cities no longer
exist, but the name of Hybla survives on account of the Hyblæan honey.
3. The first of the cities which at present remain on the aforesaid side
is Messana, built at the head of the gulf of Pelorias, which is curved
very considerably towards the east, and forms a bay. The passage across
to Rhegium[2254] is 60 stadia, but the distance to the Columna
Rheginorum is much less. It was from a colony of the Messenians of the
Peloponnesus that it was named Messana, having been originally called
Zancle, on account of the great inequality of the coast (for anything
irregular was termed ζάγκλιον). [2255] It was originally founded by the
people of Naxos near Catana. Afterwards the Mamertini, a tribe of
Campanians, took possession of it. [2256] The Romans, in the war in
Sicily against the Carthaginians, used it as an arsenal. [2257] Still
more recently,[2258] Sextus Pompeius assembled his fleet in it, to
contend against Augustus Cæsar; and when he relinquished the island, he
took ship from thence. [2259] Charybdis[2260] is pointed out at a short
distance from the city in the Strait, an immense gulf, into which the
back currents of the Strait frequently impel ships, carrying them down
with a whirl and the violence of the eddy. When they are swallowed down
and shattered, the wrecks are cast by the stream on the shore of
Tauromenia,[2261] which they call, on account of this kind of
accumulation, the dunghill. [2262] So greatly have the Mamertini
prevailed over the Messenians, that they have by degrees wrested the
city from them. The inhabitants generally are rather called Mamertini
than Messenians. The district abounds in wine, which we do not call
Messenian, but Mamertinian: it vies with the best produced in
Italy. [2263] The city is well peopled, but Catana is more populous,
which has been colonized by the Romans. [2264] Tauromenium is less
populous than either. Catana was founded by people from Naxos, and
Tauromenium by the Zanclæans of Hybla,[2265] but Catana was deprived of
its original inhabitants when Hiero, the tyrant of Syracuse, introduced
others, and called it by the name of Ætna instead of Catana. It is of
this that Pindar says he was the founder, when he sings,
“Thou understandest what I say, O father, that bearest the same name
with the splendid holy sacrifices, thou founder of Ætna. ”[2266]
But on the death of Hiero,[2267] the Catanæans returned and expelled the
new inhabitants, and demolished the mausoleum of the tyrant. The
Ætnæans, compelled to retire,[2268] established themselves on a hilly
district of Ætna, called Innesa,[2269] and called the place Ætna. It is
distant from Catana about 80 stadia. They still acknowledged Hiero as
their founder.
Ætna lies the highest of any part of Catana, and participates the most
in the inconveniences occasioned by the mouths of the volcano, for the
streams of lava flowing down in Catanæa[2270] pass through it first. It
was here that Amphinomus [CAS. 269] and Anapias set the example of
filial piety so greatly celebrated, for they, seizing their parents,
carried them on their shoulders[2271] to a place of safety from the
impending ruin; for whenever, as Posidonius relates, there is an
eruption of the mountain the fields of the Catanæans are buried to a
great depth. However, after the burning ashes have occasioned a
temporary damage, they fertilize the country for future seasons, and
render the soil good for the vine and very strong for other produce, the
neighbouring districts not being equally adapted to the produce of wine.
They say that the roots which the districts covered with these ashes
produce, are so good for fattening sheep, that they are sometimes
suffocated, wherefore they bleed them in the ear every four or five
days,[2272] in the same way as we have related a like practice at
Erythia. When the stream of lava cools[2273] it covers the surface of
the earth with stone to a considerable depth, so that those who wish to
uncover the original surface are obliged to hew away the stone as in a
quarry. For the stone is liquefied in the craters and then thrown up.
That which is cast forth from the top is like a black moist clay and
flows down the hill-sides, then congealing it becomes mill-stone,
preserving the same colour it had while fluid. The ashes of the stones
which are burnt are like what would be produced by wood, and as rue
thrives on wood ashes, so there is probably some quality in the ashes of
Ætna which is appropriate to the vine.
4. Archias, sailing from Corinth, founded Syracuse about the same
period[2274] that Naxos and Megara were built. They say that Myscellus
and Archias having repaired to Delphi at the same time to consult the
oracle, the god demanded whether they would choose wealth or health,
when Archias preferred wealth and Myscellus health, upon which the
oracle assigned Syracuse to the former to found, and Crotona to the
latter. And certainly, in like manner as it fell out that the Crotoniatæ
should inhabit a state so notable for salubrity as we have
described,[2275] so such great riches have accrued to the Syracusans
that their name has been embodied in the proverb applied to those who
have too great wealth, viz. that they have not yet attained to a tithe
of the riches of the Syracusans. While Archias was on his voyage to
Sicily, he left Chersicrates, a chief of the race of the
Heracleidæ,[2276] with a part of the expedition to settle the island now
called Corcyra,[2277] but anciently called Scheria, and he, having
expelled the Liburni who possessed it, established his colony in the
island. Archias, pursuing his route, met with certain Dorians at
Zephyrium,[2278] come from Sicily, and who had quitted the company of
those who had founded Megara; these he took with him, and in conjunction
with them founded Syracuse. The city flourished on account of the
fertility[2279] of the country and the convenience of the harbours, the
citizens became great rulers; while under tyrants themselves, they
domineered over the other states [of Sicily], and when freed from
despotism, they set at liberty such as had been enslaved by the
barbarians: of these barbarians some were the aboriginal inhabitants of
the island, while others had come across from the continent. The Greeks
suffered none of the barbarians to approach the shore, although they
were not able to expel them entirely from the interior, for the Siculi,
Sicani,[2280] Morgetes, and some others,[2281] still inhabit the island
to the present day, amongst whom also were the Iberians, who, as Ephorus
relates, were [CAS. 270] the first of the barbarians that are
considered to have been settlers in Sicily. It seems probable that
Morgantium[2282] was founded by the Morgetes. Formerly it was a city,
but now it is not. When the Carthaginians[2283] endeavoured to gain
possession of the island they continually harassed both the Greeks and
the barbarians, but the Syracusans withstood them; at a later period
the Romans expelled the Carthaginians and took Syracuse after a long
siege. [2284] And [Sextus] Pompeius, having destroyed Syracuse in the
same way as he had done by the other cities,[2285] Augustus Cæsar in
our own times sent thither a colony, and to a great extent restored
it to its former importance, for anciently it consisted of five
towns[2286] enclosed by a wall of 180[2287] stadia, but there being
no great need that it should fill this extensive circle, he thought
it expedient to fortify in a better way the thickly inhabited portion
lying next the island of Ortygia, the circumference of which by itself
equals that of an important city. Ortygia is connected to the mainland
by a bridge, and [boasts of] the fountain Arethusa, which springs in
such abundance as to form a river at once, and flows into the sea. They
say that it is the river Alpheus[2288] which rises in the Peloponnesus,
and that it flows through the land beneath the sea[2289] to the place
where the Arethusa rises and flows into the sea. Some such proofs as
these are given in support of the fact. A certain chalice having fallen
into the river at Olympia was cast up by the springs of Arethusa; the
fountain too is troubled by the sacrifices of oxen at Olympia. And
Pindar, following such reports, thus sings,
“Ortygia, revered place of reappearing[2290] of the Alpheus,
The offset of renowned Syracuse. ”[2291]
Timæus[2292] the historian advances these accounts in like manner with
Pindar. Undoubtedly if before reaching the sea the Alpheus were to fall
into some chasm,[2293] there would be a probability that it continued
its course from thence to Sicily, preserving its potable water unmixed
with the sea; but since the mouth of the river manifestly falls into the
sea, and there does not appear any opening in the bed of the sea there,
which would be capable of imbibing the waters of the river, (although
even if there were they could not remain perfectly fresh, still it might
be possible to retain much of the character of fresh water, if they were
presently to be swallowed down into a passage running below the earth
which forms the bed of the sea,) it is altogether impossible; and this
the water of Arethusa clearly proves, being perfectly fit for beverage;
but [CAS. 271] that the flow of the river should remain compact through
so long a course, not mixing with the sea until it should fall into the
fancied channel, is entirely visionary; for we can scarcely credit it of
the Rhone, the body of the waters of which remains compact during its
passage through the lake, and preserves a visible course, but in that
instance both the distance is short and the lake is not agitated by
waves like the sea, but in this case of the Alpheus,[2294] where there
are great storms and the waters are tossed with violence, the
supposition is by no means worthy of attention. The fable of the chalice
being carried over is likewise a mere fabrication, for it is not
calculated for transfer, nor is it by any means probable it should be
washed away so far, nor yet by such difficult passages. Many rivers,
however, and in many parts of the world, flow beneath the earth, but
none for so great a distance. —Still, although there may be no
impossibility in this circumstance, yet the above-mentioned accounts are
altogether impossible, and almost as absurd as the fable related of the
Inachus: this river, as Sophocles[2295] feigns,
“Flowing from the heights of Pindus and Lacmus, passes from the
country of the Perrhœbi[2296] to that of the Amphilochi[2297] and
the Acarnanians, and mingles its waters with the Achelous:”[2298]
and further on [he says],
“Thence to Argos, cutting through the waves, it comes to the
territory of Lyrceius. ”
Those who would have the river Inopus to be a branch of the Nile flowing
to Delos, exaggerate this kind of marvel to the utmost. Zoïlus the
rhetorician, in his Eulogium of the people of Tenedos, says that the
river Alpheus flows from Tenedos: yet this is the man who blames Homer
for fabulous writing. Ibycus also says that the Asopus, a river of
Sicyon,[2299] flows from Phrygia. Hecatæus is more rational, who says
that the Inachus of the Amphilochi, which flows from Mount Lacmus, from
whence also the Æas[2300] descends, was distinct from the river of like
name in Argolis, and was so named after Amphilochus, from whom likewise
the city of Argos was denominated Amphilochian. He says further, that
this river falls into the Achelous, and that the Æas flows to
Apollonia[2301] towards the west. On each side of the island there is an
extensive harbour; the extent of the larger one is 80[2302] stadia.
